Check the cleverly designed gravel holder outboard the framerail under the driver seat. Ford wanted to be sure you could always have a little dirt and gravel on hand.....ya know, in case you needed to backfill a micro pot hole or something. They also decided it'd be clever to stick a couple wire harness connectors in with the dirt, because that usually works out well. Team TFI at work!
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2021
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Why would you lube up a new vehicle's driveshaft?
Maybe taking in extra grease doesn't mean it needed it and was grease sufficiently from the factory? Is there a known issue with not enough grease from the factory or something else?
Nissan recommends every 10,000 miles in the manual. I have 4,000 miles on it. You could be right and the rear zerk from factory was nearly empty or even forgotten and the front zerk was full.
SuperFords in for ball joints, u-joint, hub assembly and seals.
It was time, 413,000 kms.
It was time, 413,000 kms.I went back under and noticed I had missed a few zerks and counted 5 Zerks in total. The color of factory Nissan grease extruding from the knuckles was very dark black until I could see the red Mobil 1 synthetic grease following it out and I stopped.
Ford had a lot of good ideas on these trucks. I've always found them to be quite a chore to do most engine work on. Heater bypass pipe beneath the intake is a fun one. You learn to not get in a hurry and try to get comfortable, because you're going to get intimate with a V8 example.
That being said, the 2v 4.6 is hard to kill, as is a 2v 5.4. they are a pain to work on, always kill ignition coils, but I've seen some run forever with zero maintenance just keep clocking miles. Now a 3v....that's a different story. I'll have to see what you're talking about in regards to the gravel trap when I get it back. Dropped it off at the tire shop this afternoon for a Monday appointment. Thanks for the heads up
Those 2V 5.4 motors in the Superduty chassis were tough to kill. Albeit you needed to find fuel right after starting it and you never could get enough speed to hit the governor, even down hill.
Yesterday on the Ford, I made a lot of progress. I pressure washed the exterior and hired the neighbor's son to clean the interior. While he was doing his work, I checked the front end, which was surprisingly tight and in good shape for over 300k with what appears to be original parts. I also changed the oil, checked/topped off fluids, replaced the air filter and serpentine belt, and replaced the wiper blades. Next weekend I'm going to install new battery and begin changing the transmission fluid through the dipstick tube, as well as doing some suck and fill changes on the power steering. Sometime soon I'll do a drain and fill change on the coolant.
I actually like this old Ford. I think I'll keep it, at least for awhile.
I'm also going to begin working on the Sonoma soon. I need to verify if the fuel pump is indeed bad. I'm going to get the Ford squared away first.
Today I'm going to focus on getting some exercise and making a crock pot of chili.
I actually like this old Ford. I think I'll keep it, at least for awhile.
I'm also going to begin working on the Sonoma soon. I need to verify if the fuel pump is indeed bad. I'm going to get the Ford squared away first.
Today I'm going to focus on getting some exercise and making a crock pot of chili.
All the idlers on the FEAD like to get noisy. If you're lucky enough to still have the OEM steel pulleys, keep them and press in new bearings. Everything you buy now is plastic, esp the tensioner idler -- even from Ford (cost cutting).
The Dorman pan for the 4R70 is a hidden gem and of course you get a drain plug.
The factory parks the wiper arms too low for defrost to be effective. You can remove the key and reposition as you want. The key was just for consistency during assembly on the line.
2018 Toyota Camry XLE with 287,xxx miles.
-Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 + Supertech 9972 filter
-Drain & Refill transmission fluid. Was black with metal shavings
-Brake flush with Prestone DOT3
-Duralast Elite Brake pads + Gold rotors front and rear
Vehicle has a lot of power, however, it has haphazard vibrations due to transmission.
-Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w30 + Supertech 9972 filter
-Drain & Refill transmission fluid. Was black with metal shavings
-Brake flush with Prestone DOT3
-Duralast Elite Brake pads + Gold rotors front and rear
Vehicle has a lot of power, however, it has haphazard vibrations due to transmission.
I replaced all of the instrument cluster bulbs in my 2005 CR-V today. I had replaced 5 of them in Oct 2021 (with Dorman bulbs). All of the Dormans were burned out and most of the original Honda were now also done.
I got off my wallet and got the Honda bulbs. They cost in the range of $175 Canadian ($125USD), which is a bit sickening, but I have had no luck with Dorman, I don't trust any of the other aftermarket junk, and I hope to not have to do this again. It's a safety issue at night so had to be done. It took only 20 minutes so not a bad job at all.
It's not night yet but I can see they're all working well.
I got off my wallet and got the Honda bulbs. They cost in the range of $175 Canadian ($125USD), which is a bit sickening, but I have had no luck with Dorman, I don't trust any of the other aftermarket junk, and I hope to not have to do this again. It's a safety issue at night so had to be done. It took only 20 minutes so not a bad job at all.
It's not night yet but I can see they're all working well.
Dorman and electrical is the worst. I had a bubble body shifter lever with the wires pinned incorrectly and a t-case motor that wouldn't work with the GM "auto" t-cases (even though it was supposed to). All stuff that should never make it out the door if there was a modicum of QC
Installed camshaft, crankshaft and rings onto piston/rod assemblies into 410 FE.
Whats this ? No rust in the wheel bearing/knuckle area? This cant be a Canadian car!SuperFords in for ball joints, u-joint, hub assembly and seals.
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Craving for more bass in the 02 Silverado Extended Cab so out goes the Pioneer TS-WX010A Bass Sound Creator 50w RMS 'sub':
to a JL Audio PowerWedge+ ACS110LG-TW1 400w RMS powered subwoofer.
Ran an 8ga +12v power wire from a spot on the fusebox which conveniently gives you a 30a max constant powered post to power any accessories. It's a low power system and it lets me tidy up wiring without dealing with a dedicated 12v circuit with larger gauge wiring and bigger fuse.
Drilled and riv-nut a dedicated ground on the body for the 8ga ground wire. All low power stuff so no extra work with electrical upgrades.
Looks right at home in the back of an ext. cab GMT800 truck. Tidied up the wiring going into the amp with tesa tape and plastic loom to give it that factory look and ease of removal if more space is needed.
to a JL Audio PowerWedge+ ACS110LG-TW1 400w RMS powered subwoofer.
Ran an 8ga +12v power wire from a spot on the fusebox which conveniently gives you a 30a max constant powered post to power any accessories. It's a low power system and it lets me tidy up wiring without dealing with a dedicated 12v circuit with larger gauge wiring and bigger fuse.
Drilled and riv-nut a dedicated ground on the body for the 8ga ground wire. All low power stuff so no extra work with electrical upgrades.
Looks right at home in the back of an ext. cab GMT800 truck. Tidied up the wiring going into the amp with tesa tape and plastic loom to give it that factory look and ease of removal if more space is needed.
Got the dreaded "help me get into my Boxster, battery is dead..." call from a good friend a few weeks ago. Reminded me to route the emergency hood release to a more accessible spot on the 996 & 986. No permanent changes and I used soft wire to not chafe on anything. Eventually routed the wire under the headlight plate following the front bumper to the fender liner.
Replacing the wheel hub assembly and u-joint, both worn out.
Yes, Canadian F350.