What are you working on today?

Had an interesting one today. 2017 ford explorer police interceptor came in for multiple warning lights on and a parasitic draw that would drain the battery completely over night. Checked for codes with IDS had multiple misfire codes for specific cylinders and random. Also had air bag light, but I could not communicate with it. After a little further investigation I could not talk to any modules on the HS1 can network. There were several of them.

Hooked my meter up to find a 6.53 AMP draw that wouldn’t let up. No wonder the battery was dead! Took a while to isolate it but narrowed it to cooling fan B+ from the battery junction box, and the problem was in that spot. Not outside of it. I removed the BJB to check the rats nest of wiring underneath it (this fuse box is integral to the body harness) and found the B+ fan wire melted with several other wires, including can bus wiring and relay grounds and other “switched hot” wires (this fan wire is hot at all times) which explained why I could energize and de-energize the PCM by removing the fan power fuse. I had to depin the fuse spade from the BJB (had to remove every relay and fuse within this fuse box to remove the locks for the terminals) and remove the terminal to repair the wire. I was able to save enough of the wire to reuse the spade, but the plastic lock was so brittle it broke when trying to release it. I had to epoxy the terminal in, which was a success (the other option is to replace the BJB and the body harness which was not happening).

After repairing all the wiring I ended up with 0.014 amps, or 14 milliamps. Very acceptable.

got my module communication back and had a 2 fold issue with the air bag. The clock spring failed (steering wheel buttons did not work) and the air bag failed (deployment loop resistance). Replaced both and that fixed those issues.

The misfires were repaired by a set of spark plugs. Nothing exciting there. There may be a small growing issue on cyl 1 with a little bit of a suspiciously clean plug, but no issues at this time. Will monitor.

Now waiting for a mid pipe for the exhaust and a RF wheel bearing for next week!

Not sure why it turned my photos…there correct before attaching them

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I've been using axle straps to hold the water tote on our little utility trailer but they walk along the rails, which annoys me. I added a pair of 1/2" D-rings
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Also I kinda wanted additional tie-down options on the front rail. I'm always hoarding old u-bolts for reasons like this and finally put a couple to use:
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Rattle canned black after photos.
 
2024 Volvo sedan S-60 FWD 2.5 engine. Brakes all around.

Don’t need a scan or special tool for rear caliper. My ancient craftsman shirt pry bar worked flawlessly on rear caliper pistons.

Old pads obviously down to almost ketal on metal. 37k on car.

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Digging another huge carpet roll out from a fence line.

This is cosmic payback for digging the rock up! The property had some crapper house that the local county FD around 2012 used as a practice burn. But first took the carpet out. But to roll and bury it?? Nasty practice. Illegal and ugly.

This one is well embedded and huge and deep. Fack. Made a start. Now gonna shower and get out of here.

Then the Boss starts in about me being obsessed when I start a task. That carpet needs gone. It's nasty. I'm not obsessed. I will get that bugger out this week!
 
Today's big job: PCV valve, plugs and coils, and maybe fuel injectors on my daughter's 2008 Prius with 295K+ miles.

Thankfully there are several good guides and videos on this job.
 
WHAT is happening with that headstock? I see a jagged reversing (?) switch and a clown nose? Where do you select your feeds and speeds?
To change the speeds, there's different gears that are changed out. I basically turn everything at one speed.:) It's a very small lathe, so 5" piece is about as large as it gets.:) I'm on the lookout for a real lathe in future, for the big pieces I use a friends real lathe to turn flywheels and such.:)
 
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