What are you working on today?

I've been having a mysterious time diagnosing a Kubota RTV900, she blows white metallic burning smelling smoke, knocks, and generally is way down on power. I narrowed it down to what I thought was an injector by cracking open each line while it was running. It died on two injectors, but didnt do anything on one injector. I swapped it with another known good injector (I have a spare blown d902), and I couldnt get the lines bled after multiple attempts. I went backwards in troubleshooting, bypassed the fuel tank, filter, created a Home Depot gravity gas tank, and the injection pump only spurts out 1 of 3 bores.

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I removed the injection pump, disassembled it, and I do see what might be a few parts not moving correctly, but in general everything looks fine, no broken springs. After comparing rebuilt parts costs vs a reman pump, I ordered a reman pump and we'll see what happens in a few weeks.

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My hat goes off to you @D60
Nothing makes the job worse than having to clean up after someone else 🙄

I also fought blend doors in the recent heat, both temperature doors (and clips for the link rods) on a 2000 Eldorado
Removing the glovebox and hush panel wasn't too bad
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Had to go further and split the HVAC case to get the link back on the door
Both link rod clips disintegrated, and are discontinued
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But similar vintage GM 5/32 door lock rod clips seem a drop in replacement
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After code clearing, and manual blend door calibrating, HVAC control was restored
The A/C itself works until the compressor cuts out (low charge)
But at least it's not stuck on full heat
I may top off with my gauge set, or he can take it to a shop for a proper weighed in recharge
 
2014 Silverado L83/6L80, 125,000 miles..... Blew a transmission cooler line off at the thermostatic bypass, The retaining clip seems to have never been installed when the trans was swapped at one point in the past (Has a '15 model unit).

Removed the bypass valve to inspect for metal/TCC failure, Surprisingly none was found, Deleted the thermostatic function. After 4 quarts of fresh ATF she seemed no worse for wear.

Customer mentioned some oil usage when I called with the good news, I recommended to start by turning off the AFM.....I also tuned the TCC scheduling for operation in only 5th & 6th gear & set the target TCC Slip to Zero RPM.

The 2003 Dodge Ram 3.7L is up & running, Runs great! Need to charge the A/C & install the left inner fender liner.
Picture of right after the cab was lowered down on the chassis.

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clinebarger said:
2014 Silverado L83/6L80, 125,000 miles..... Blew a transmission cooler line off at the thermostatic bypass, The retaining clip seems to have never been installed when the trans was swapped at one point in the past (Has a '15 model unit).

Removed the bypass valve to inspect for metal/TCC failure, Surprisingly none was found, Deleted the thermostatic function. After 4 quarts of fresh ATF she seemed no worse for wear.

Customer mentioned some oil usage when I called with the good news, I recommended to start by turning off the AFM.....I also tuned the TCC scheduling for operation in only 5th & 6th gear & set the target TCC Slip to Zero RPM.

The 2003 Dodge Ram 3.7L is up & running, Runs great! Need to charge the A/C & install the left inner fender liner.
Picture of right after the cab was lowered down on the chassis.

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took the guts out of the valve on our 6L … not worth the risk down south
 
cptbarkey said:
The cage welding repairs are finished, there was a back square tube that needed replaced.

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The front suspension is coming along. New ball joints pressed in, the driver front spindle pressed back into shape. Need to reinforce the spindles with more gussets, many complaints of other owners with the the same issue.

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More work on the go kart.

The front suspension is reassembled and repainted, 4x new 7 inch grade 8 bolts, spindles reinforced 1/4 inch welded gussets.

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Grinded some chaff off the floorboard and repainted it.
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The rear axle ended up being bent, so I have a new 1 inch axle, spindles, gears, brake disc tires and rims coming from gopowersports. I tried cutting it and rebending it, but the axle still wobbled from an even deeper point, so I gave up. The kit was pricey but I think it will be worth it, i'm still well under what a new or used good condition Yerf Dog Spiderbox costs.

The rear engine support was next on the list. Originally it was made for a GY6, but I'm changing it to a Predator 212. I took some scrap riser parts off a shipping sled which happened to be the perfect width.

Had a ball throwing sparks with the chop saw.
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Welded the risers both on to the main engine chassis, and also extended the entire support with thick L channel from a piece of farm equipment I chopped up. I have an engine plate already and will drill holes and bolt it on in case I want to reuse it. A solicitor who was next door watching offered me a business card to do welding side jobs, that might be fun.

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Had a slipping/screeching a/c clutch on my 95 Chevy G20, figured out the clutch cycling pressure switch wasn't delivering full power to the magnetic coil. I installed a new switch, luckily it screws into a schrader valve, so there's no need to drain the system, I also replaced the o-ring. Now the clutch doesn't slip anymore.

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25 Forester gas - oil change and tire rotation.

20 Ram 1500 5.7 - replaced transmission fluid and pan/filter assembly for the first time at 44K. It was an expensive and messy ordeal. The pan magnets were pretty much spotless.

19 Pilot w/75K - front water passage gasket was leaking due to coating failure. Rear was in perfect condition. I replaced f/r water passage gaskets, thermostat assembly, upper/lower intake manifold gaskets, EGR gaskets, throttle body gasket, engine air filter. Also cleaned throttle body and performed idle speed relearn.
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Amkeer said:
Today's maintenance routine. I need to put together a new addition to the tool collection. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DY9HBAK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This should make tire rotations on my trucks a lot easier. I was struggling with rotations lifting 100lb tires on studs in a awkward position. So we will see how this works. Plan:

1. Remove tires and clean the barrel of rims, apply sealant. This is done every 5000 miles.
2. Rotate tires front to back, passenger to driver rear and rear straight forward. Torque to 85ft lbs. Before doing this inspect brakes and apply Fluid Film as needed.
3. Oil change and new filter. Using Wix 51348 and Mobil 1 5w30.
4. Fill tires with correct air pressure.
5. Sweat profusely thinking about the mini split.

This is on the 2014 Tacoma which has 110,000 miles now.
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Finally got around to replacing the rears to match the front door speakers.

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De-vette'd the 4L60-E in the 02 Silverado. Went for the belief that it was supposed to make up for the inherent issues of the transmission in a tradeoff for harsher shifts. Got tired of the harsh shifts after 10 years having it installed and found a used stock servo (553 casting) in place of the vette servo.

Vette servo removed.
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Didn't want to reuse any of the seals so I also got a servo piston d-ring kit that is supposed to replace the factory split Teflon rings with Viton D-rings for better piston sealing.
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Tuesday after having my shower not turn off and go to full hot (original Mixet valve from 1968), I went to drive to work and the window on the Mustang wouldn't come back up. Gto around to it today and replaced the regulator, motor, belt molding and inside felt with new Ford parts. And yes I did wash the glass before putting it back in. Only had to adjust the glass a few times before it would go all the way up and down.

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I did a 60K service on a friend’s 2021 Subaru Forester. She bought most of the supplies - MicroGuard filters, O’Reilly house brand oil. I bought gear oil, wipers, and a jug of Prestone blue to top off the reservoir. She’s taking it to the dealer for an alignment and I told her to have the CVT fluid changed there.

The Chevy I had to wrangle a pair of shoes and a drum on.
 
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