Do you live next to a nail factory, LOL?
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
@ripcord i wish I lived next to a nail factory, less chance. It's these old, redeveloped farm sites. Old buildings that are long gone, old farmers and ranchers that buried piles of old metal etc.
I'm at 3 or 4 flats now on my 3500. I'm 10+ on my Trailblazer and I can't remember the rest. Far too many.
I'm at 3 or 4 flats now on my 3500. I'm 10+ on my Trailblazer and I can't remember the rest. Far too many.
If the tire store fees for road hazard (or "certificates" as Discount says) go up we know to blame YOU!
2009 lincoln mks the serpentine belt replaced, tensioner repalced, ps belt repalced
This morning pulled out aliens out of the up coming driveway… gave the Kioti a work out. Pulled the rest of a fence out after lunch. I’m beat.. really only get on day to work down here.
2001 Toyota Tundra lower ball joint replacement. Replacing the 12 year old 555 Sankei balljoints with Toyota OEM. I checked the play to inspect for failure and while they were within spec, one had a tear in the boot.
Been watching too much The Car Care Nut videos to the point where I've been indoctrinated by Mr. AMD to use OEM balljoints, especially for critical failure prone parts.
Bolts has its own part number and is not included with the ball joints. Replacing the 4 spindle mount bolts is recommended. The balljoints do include a new castle nut and cotter pin. You'll have to provide your own for the tie rod end castle nut.
Casting difference in the 555 Sankei vs. Toyota OEM lower balljoint.
555 is one that has a relief duckbill on the boot but this one decided to relieve its grease on the seam instead.
Completely sealed design. As much as not having the 'feel good' feeling of greasing balljoints, the ease of replacing every 10 years negates the burden of forgetting to grease them every year.
With this type of balljoint setup, I rather replace them every 10 years/100,000mi as a PM since they have a catastrophic failure point.
Slightly modified front end. It's on its 3rd pair of Bilstein shocks believe it or not.
2001 Toyota Tundra lower ball joint inspection. Lower ball joints were replaced 12 years ago with 555 Sankei greaseable ball joints. Performed annual greasing with Valvoline Synpower grease.
Used this video for Toyotas with this lower balljoint style to find runout spec and dial gauge measurement conversions.
Setting up dial indicator on control arm and ball joint tang.
Setting gauge preload. The spindle needs to be pryed up from the balljoint to measure endplay. Zero would be max runout.
Prying up between control arm and balljoint mounting...
Used this video for Toyotas with this lower balljoint style to find runout spec and dial gauge measurement conversions.
Setting up dial indicator on control arm and ball joint tang.
Setting gauge preload. The spindle needs to be pryed up from the balljoint to measure endplay. Zero would be max runout.
Prying up between control arm and balljoint mounting...
Been watching too much The Car Care Nut videos to the point where I've been indoctrinated by Mr. AMD to use OEM balljoints, especially for critical failure prone parts.
Bolts has its own part number and is not included with the ball joints. Replacing the 4 spindle mount bolts is recommended. The balljoints do include a new castle nut and cotter pin. You'll have to provide your own for the tie rod end castle nut.
Casting difference in the 555 Sankei vs. Toyota OEM lower balljoint.
555 is one that has a relief duckbill on the boot but this one decided to relieve its grease on the seam instead.
Completely sealed design. As much as not having the 'feel good' feeling of greasing balljoints, the ease of replacing every 10 years negates the burden of forgetting to grease them every year.
With this type of balljoint setup, I rather replace them every 10 years/100,000mi as a PM since they have a catastrophic failure point.
Slightly modified front end. It's on its 3rd pair of Bilstein shocks believe it or not.
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2001 Toyota Tundra lower ball joint replacement. Replacing the 12 year old 555 Sankei balljoints with Toyota OEM. I checked the play to inspect for failure and while they were within spec, one had a tear in the boot.
2001 Toyota Tundra lower ball joint inspection. Lower ball joints were replaced 12 years ago with 555 Sankei greaseable ball joints. Performed annual greasing with Valvoline Synpower grease.
Used this video for Toyotas with this lower balljoint style to find runout spec and dial gauge measurement conversions.
Setting up dial indicator on control arm and ball joint tang.
Setting gauge preload. The spindle needs to be pryed up from the balljoint to measure endplay. Zero would be max runout.
Prying up between control arm and balljoint mounting...
Been watching too much The Car Care Nut videos to the point where I've been indoctrinated by Mr. AMD to use OEM balljoints, especially for critical failure prone parts.
Bolts has its own part number and is not included with the ball joints. Replacing the 4 spindle mount bolts is recommended. The balljoints do include a new castle nut and cotter pin. You'll have to provide your own for the tie rod end castle nut.
View attachment 282518
Casting difference in the 555 Sankei vs. Toyota OEM lower balljoint.
View attachment 282519
555 is one that has a relief duckbill on the boot but this one decided to relieve its grease on the seam instead.
View attachment 282520
Completely sealed design. As much as not having the 'feel good' feeling of greasing balljoints, the ease of replacing every 10 years negates the burden of forgetting to grease them every year.
View attachment 282521
With this type of balljoint setup, I rather replace them every 10 years/100,000mi as a PM since they have a catastrophic failure point.
View attachment 282522
Slightly modified front end. It's on its 3rd pair of Bilstein shocks believe it or not.
View attachment 282523
Dude get a central-locking Noga-esque mag base and you'll throw that scrap as far as you can at the neighbor's house. Life's too short to mess with that junk.
Be careful w CCN -- a little is a good, a lot is too much. Everything in moderation
I really appreciate Toyota's bolt-in BJ design
Making a mess out of the yard was not exactly on the board today, but it's how it happened.
Nope...
Not enough traction, improper strap, and me being not the brightest bulb out there
Filled, seeded, peat moss, watered.
Nope...
Not enough traction, improper strap, and me being not the brightest bulb out there
Filled, seeded, peat moss, watered.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2022
- Messages
- 335
Picked up 2 bags of the 10mm washers from lowes this afternoon, needed them for the new Godspeed 280mm end links for the van. we've found that 11.00'' or 280mm end links in conjunction with the 28mm hardrace sway bar is ideal for sharp cornering.
we're really hoping these end link will solve the issue of the larger ball joints hitting the side of the inner firewall. As the Godspeed links have a flush to rod design. The links included a nutsert or standoff but we'll remove this and just add one washer to sandwich the strut bracket. This installation should take place in 2 weeks, then it's off to Bens shop in VA where he'll install or attempt to install the Hardrace camber plates.
we're really hoping these end link will solve the issue of the larger ball joints hitting the side of the inner firewall. As the Godspeed links have a flush to rod design. The links included a nutsert or standoff but we'll remove this and just add one washer to sandwich the strut bracket. This installation should take place in 2 weeks, then it's off to Bens shop in VA where he'll install or attempt to install the Hardrace camber plates.
Maintenance on the Deere 316 at my house.
New air filter, new foam prefilter (oiled with g-oil 5w30 that is ancient)
Changed the oil. with Motul racing oil.. because why not?
Took the deck off (royal PAIN) chiseled off all the old grass stuck to the bottom
Sharpened the blades.
lubed the deck wheels, greased all the fittings I could find.
Cleaned up my mess.
New air filter, new foam prefilter (oiled with g-oil 5w30 that is ancient)
Changed the oil. with Motul racing oil.. because why not?
Took the deck off (royal PAIN) chiseled off all the old grass stuck to the bottom
Sharpened the blades.
lubed the deck wheels, greased all the fittings I could find.
Cleaned up my mess.
My '05 L2800 is still running the rubber from '05. Years ago I had a tube put in one front tire. Today the other tire started to show its age and apparently went flat sitting. I fired it up with a load of 20' steel sticks already on the forks and it lost both beads.
I was able to get it back together with my ancient Coats 1010
I'll probably take it to our local co-op to have them put a tube in. I love ag tire stores because they'll mount or tube ANYTHING -- no lectures about safety because your typical rancher or farmer walked uphill in the snow both ways to school and just doesn't care about anything other than working hard and getting the job done!!
I was able to get it back together with my ancient Coats 1010
I'll probably take it to our local co-op to have them put a tube in. I love ag tire stores because they'll mount or tube ANYTHING -- no lectures about safety because your typical rancher or farmer walked uphill in the snow both ways to school and just doesn't care about anything other than working hard and getting the job done!!
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2022
- Messages
- 394
2015 Subaru Forester
Spark Plug Replacement, NGK iridium were in there from 70k to 140k Miles
70k is the interval and these were ready.
On all 4 the side electrode was worn down to about 2x the gap spec on half of it.
Took me about an hour to figureout the right combination of swivels and sockets.
Spark Plug Replacement, NGK iridium were in there from 70k to 140k Miles
70k is the interval and these were ready.
On all 4 the side electrode was worn down to about 2x the gap spec on half of it.
Took me about an hour to figureout the right combination of swivels and sockets.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2022
- Messages
- 335
BIG fail this afternoon, just got those TRQ hub assemblies for the van and although these are fine.. I ran down to grab the Hardrace camber plates and.. none of the holes line up.. crap have to send the Hubs back and lose more money in the process.. Plus, this means no trip to see Ben in Roanoke Va to install the plates..
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I just installed Lasfit LED replacement headlight bulbs in my beater 2006 Honda Civic. It's just a bulb replacement, but what a game changer... I was reticent to drive the car in the rain or at night due to the pitiful performance of the old halogen bulbs. Now I just have to give the headlight lenses the once over to clear them up.
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2022
- Messages
- 335
having to repackage the rear hub assemblies to shipment back to TRQ as the boxes were completely mangled during shipment from their headquarters. surprisingly, the Hub assemblies were not damaged during the shipment just the boxes. So far, used one roll of the gorilla clear tape with one waiting to place the RMA inside the box. According to TRQ, our account will be billed 33.00 for the return ship.. The hardrace camber plates is a different story I had ordered these almost 2 years ago and just found out they don't or won't work on the van.. so if anyone wants these hardrace camber plates design for the Focus SE let me know.
https://hardraceshop.com/products/h...-camber-by-1deg?_pos=140&_sid=a961db19b&_ss=r
https://hardraceshop.com/products/h...-camber-by-1deg?_pos=140&_sid=a961db19b&_ss=r
Been busy with lots of stuff recently.
Had 2 3.7 water pump jobs, both done in one day. One in a Taurus, one in an explorer. Have my time down to 5 hours start to finish.
Set of king pins on a 2021 pierce ladder truck along with a complete PM service . They were frozen solid, not easy to get out.
Cleaned and repacked the bearings on my travel trailer, only to find one smoked bearing. There was no lack of grease. Overloading is the only thing I can chalk it up to. Also found loose leaf spring bolts. This trailer was just given a clean bill of health by the dealer also. Camper is only 4 years old, with probably less than 8K miles on it. Glad I checked it before towing to Maine.
Also replaced the power converter in the trailer to work with my lithium battery upgrade. I fit a 280AH battery (size of a 4D battery) to replace my 2 marine group 24s. What a difference. One of the best upgrades I’ve done.
Found that the new power converter was not charging the battery (can monitor current/voltage etc via battery BMS which is Bluetooth) at all. After some digging I have a ground problem (more loads on, voltage at the 12V power board drops significantly). I discovered that they never attached the main chassis ground to the bus bar behind the fuse panel. No idea how anything worked off of battery! Been like this for 4 years. Absolutely ridiculous. I connected the ground and the converter charges the battery at 27 amps/14.4 volts now. I also found they used 6 and 8 gauge wire to carry 55 amps (capacity of power converter) over a 40 foot run, so replacing all with 2 gauge cable. Should make the battery charge at full capacity after and not have so much current loss.
Been scrounging for wood also. (I heat with wood). Found over a cord of very nice white oak, all free, minus a little fuel and bar oil, 10 minutes from my house. Big score.
Had 2 3.7 water pump jobs, both done in one day. One in a Taurus, one in an explorer. Have my time down to 5 hours start to finish.
Set of king pins on a 2021 pierce ladder truck along with a complete PM service . They were frozen solid, not easy to get out.
Cleaned and repacked the bearings on my travel trailer, only to find one smoked bearing. There was no lack of grease. Overloading is the only thing I can chalk it up to. Also found loose leaf spring bolts. This trailer was just given a clean bill of health by the dealer also. Camper is only 4 years old, with probably less than 8K miles on it. Glad I checked it before towing to Maine.
Also replaced the power converter in the trailer to work with my lithium battery upgrade. I fit a 280AH battery (size of a 4D battery) to replace my 2 marine group 24s. What a difference. One of the best upgrades I’ve done.
Found that the new power converter was not charging the battery (can monitor current/voltage etc via battery BMS which is Bluetooth) at all. After some digging I have a ground problem (more loads on, voltage at the 12V power board drops significantly). I discovered that they never attached the main chassis ground to the bus bar behind the fuse panel. No idea how anything worked off of battery! Been like this for 4 years. Absolutely ridiculous. I connected the ground and the converter charges the battery at 27 amps/14.4 volts now. I also found they used 6 and 8 gauge wire to carry 55 amps (capacity of power converter) over a 40 foot run, so replacing all with 2 gauge cable. Should make the battery charge at full capacity after and not have so much current loss.
Been scrounging for wood also. (I heat with wood). Found over a cord of very nice white oak, all free, minus a little fuel and bar oil, 10 minutes from my house. Big score.
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The 526k mile 1996 4Runner returned with 530,300 miles for an oil change.
It was also throwing a P0171 (I think this is just a perma-code for the 3.4) and P0304. I checked the #4 plug and plug wire both visually and for resistance, but all is good.
I did find all the plugs loose-ish but not so loose I think compression was escaping. They were Autolites and it's like the last shop just gently compressed the crush washer and stopped.
I smoked the intake and did find a bit of a leak at a hose clamp on the stupid baffle/silencer amalgamation, so maybe that'll handle the P0171 -- hope springs eternal.
I cleaned the MAF and throttle body and swapped the coil responsible for #4 just in case. She runs great now after a lengthy test drive so hopefully the plug was too loose or the MAF was dirty. I've found the 3.4 to be very sensitive about the MAF. Oh I did throw some HEET in the tank after seeing bad gas cause similar symptoms in a Subaru saga.
I feel it's premature to run compression or leakdown given that she runs great now.
It was also throwing a P0171 (I think this is just a perma-code for the 3.4) and P0304. I checked the #4 plug and plug wire both visually and for resistance, but all is good.
I did find all the plugs loose-ish but not so loose I think compression was escaping. They were Autolites and it's like the last shop just gently compressed the crush washer and stopped.
I smoked the intake and did find a bit of a leak at a hose clamp on the stupid baffle/silencer amalgamation, so maybe that'll handle the P0171 -- hope springs eternal.
I cleaned the MAF and throttle body and swapped the coil responsible for #4 just in case. She runs great now after a lengthy test drive so hopefully the plug was too loose or the MAF was dirty. I've found the 3.4 to be very sensitive about the MAF. Oh I did throw some HEET in the tank after seeing bad gas cause similar symptoms in a Subaru saga.
I feel it's premature to run compression or leakdown given that she runs great now.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Yesterday. Got screwed by warranty pay on a steering rack and pinion on a 23 Tacoma. Warranty pay is 3.5 hours and customer pay is 8.2. I hate warranty work. I clocked 9.7 on it and then got it in and all back together and aligned and I’ll be darned if the steering rack isn’t bad they sent a bad one. We always have problems with the remanufactured ones and Toyota will not pay for new. So spent half the day today trying to figure out why I didn’t have power steering. I bled it 5 times and even flushed the system and still nothing it worked for about 4 turns each time then back to no power steering so we think the valve inside the rack is bad which is something we see all the time with these reman racks. These are the days I hate my job. I don’t know anyone that can do it in 3.5 hours. Had the 81 year old mechanic help and he said the rack, asked my two bay neighbors and they both said rack too because if it was the pump or something else the steering wouldn’t of came back at all. And the rack was replaced due to leaks not necessarily being “bad”.
Time that was all said and done I did a 4Runner for front pads and machine rotors and oil change and tire rotation. Then another 4Runner that I sold brakes on Friday but had to wait on rotors that were two days out. I advised them to leave the car as the pads were metal to metal but they took the car and called an hour later saying they were at the mall and had no brakes so it got towed back in and the entire caliper blew out because the brake pad fell out and pushed the caliper into the rotor which was also razor thin. So got that back up and going today too. I was nice and knocked the labor down on the caliper from 3 hours to 1 hour because 3 hours is a bit steep. As you can see the piston is right against the shim and rotor. Shims also got replaced the shim kit is like $52 ridiculous that Toyota doesn’t include it with the pads.
