Delete cabin air filter, add 2 rear struts.
CVTF thermostat gasket looked like it was ready to leak any day. Lots of corrosion on the outlet as well…not sure why.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
CVTF thermostat gasket looked like it was ready to leak any day. Lots of corrosion on the outlet as well…not sure why.
Thank you but honestly the coolest thing I ever copied was the OTC 303-635 for Ford front crank seals. In that case it kinda was about money because I was unwilling to pay the retail of $250+ for a hunk of round steel -- on principle alone.
I broached the keyway and custom ground a tool to trepan the lipped counterbore
Leaking rear struts replaced. Ride quality has been ruined…these ride significantly more firm than the original equipment struts.
You never know what you get with KYB Excel-G; some are stiff, some are soft. But hey, you don’t have many local options on a Sunday.
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I felt the same way after replacing my OE 11 year-old MB shocks with new Bilstein B4. They have since settled in quite nicely and I feel the ride is vastly improved, as is the handling when the road gets curvy (and I like it!)
Today I drained and refilled the rear diff fluid on my Ram. The old stuff had just over 33K miles on it, very dark red and cloudy.
New stuff was virtually clear, made by Valvoline and "fully synthetic" 75w90 with the LSD additive included. I added about 2.6 qts before it started dribbling out the fill hole. Took the truck out afterwards and man, it's soo quiet in the rear. I would sometimes hear a groaning noise when turning 90* and uphill; no more.
Going forward, I'll go with a 30K mile change interval for the rear. I haven't done the front yet, or the transfer case, I mainly drive it in 2wd mode except in snow. Those will get drained and refilled probably around 50-60K miles.
Some of the Ram differentials require for the fluid level to be 1/4" under the fill plug opening.
I’d think they will loosen up over 500-1000 miles or so?
Was supposed to just replace the seizing RF caliper on my '07 F150. I actually had O'Reilly turn my rotors because this is my beater. I was sitting on some Raybestos Element 3 pads for years. And I happened to have a RF hose from when this caliper got hot a couple years ago -- but then any symptoms disappeared and I ignored it ‐‐ until it returned recently.
While on the lift I decided to change the oil, drain a gallon from the 4R70, service the front diff and I serviced the t-case specifically with MercV because the bottle says not to use in t-cases -- but I maintain that's only for t-cases with frictions, AWD or similar. We'll see if gravity stops working.....
While I know the dust boot doesn't mean much, it was the left piston here that was sticking:
New hose and pads, rotors turned and reman caliper
I'm glad I always lube slider pins that are already installed in brackets because I found this
I went to the OTHER pin and same story, which is doubly laughable because of course each bracket should only have one pin with the rubber damper
Another Lube Locker knock-off for my front 8.8
While on the lift I decided to change the oil, drain a gallon from the 4R70, service the front diff and I serviced the t-case specifically with MercV because the bottle says not to use in t-cases -- but I maintain that's only for t-cases with frictions, AWD or similar. We'll see if gravity stops working.....
While I know the dust boot doesn't mean much, it was the left piston here that was sticking:
New hose and pads, rotors turned and reman caliper
I'm glad I always lube slider pins that are already installed in brackets because I found this
I went to the OTHER pin and same story, which is doubly laughable because of course each bracket should only have one pin with the rubber damper
Another Lube Locker knock-off for my front 8.8
Doubtful, but they'll probably feel semi worn out after 30-40k, as with many of the aftermarket struts.
OCI + cabin filter on a '20 Elantra
Sisters boyfriends '13 2.4 Avenger is starting to show its true colors, and reinforce why I don't like Mopar products
Intermittent P0442, and a worn factory gas cap
I order up a nice new Mopar part (after ascertaining which of 4 part numbers by VIN) it could be
Tether doesn't fit
The harder I try, the harder the universe punishes me
He also complained of a sloshing noise and wet carpet in heavy rains
I know this platform, the cowl drains love to plug up
Two out of three I got unclogged without pulling the cowl, I can't get the wiper arms off the linkage, so the driver's side drain will have to wait
2/3 vs 0/3 should keep it dry enough for now
Sisters boyfriends '13 2.4 Avenger is starting to show its true colors, and reinforce why I don't like Mopar products
Intermittent P0442, and a worn factory gas cap
I order up a nice new Mopar part (after ascertaining which of 4 part numbers by VIN) it could be
Tether doesn't fit
The harder I try, the harder the universe punishes me
He also complained of a sloshing noise and wet carpet in heavy rains
I know this platform, the cowl drains love to plug up
Two out of three I got unclogged without pulling the cowl, I can't get the wiper arms off the linkage, so the driver's side drain will have to wait
2/3 vs 0/3 should keep it dry enough for now
Hurray! I finally got my brother's Eurovan based Winnebago Rialta running. It would start cold but stall after a minute or two.
The parts cannon hit the bullseye on the third shot. It had one code that referenced the coil and something about second stage grounding to B+. No explanation to be found anywhere online, at least not in English. Anyway... I put a new coil and ignition module in along with plugs, wires, cap and rotor as they were due. No dice. I then replaced the ECU power solenoid as those are supposed to be a common failure point but that wasn't it. Then I replaced another supposedly common failure item which was the Hall Effect sensor (distributor pickup) and it seemed to be the issue. No more stalling.
The parts cannon hit the bullseye on the third shot. It had one code that referenced the coil and something about second stage grounding to B+. No explanation to be found anywhere online, at least not in English. Anyway... I put a new coil and ignition module in along with plugs, wires, cap and rotor as they were due. No dice. I then replaced the ECU power solenoid as those are supposed to be a common failure point but that wasn't it. Then I replaced another supposedly common failure item which was the Hall Effect sensor (distributor pickup) and it seemed to be the issue. No more stalling.
Better to be lucky than good! Always my motto!
The yellow jacket go kart is ready, raised the cage a bit so its easier for an adult to get in. Next up, more go karts, and box blade a race track on the family ranch.
Man I never like big in-bed campers on my lift but with SWMBO spotting I was actually able to get it to a reasonable height. Once again glad I got the -168 option on my lift, but truly I'd like a clear floor Mohawk with no top bar also
'98 GMT400 K2500 ECLB so at least not as heavy as '05+ Superduty or '11+ GM
'98 GMT400 K2500 ECLB so at least not as heavy as '05+ Superduty or '11+ GM
Doing a lot of electrical diag the past couple weeks, Using the Pico OBD breakout box quite a bit for CAN diag as you can easily see when the network comes back up via the LED's when unplugging modules/inline connectors.
Yesterday was a day to fight with sway bar links front and rear for very different reasons. On the front of this '98 K2500 I needed to replace the LF axle seal (pretty sure you could operate a shop solely replacing GM IFS axle seals and be booked out for months).
I wasn't able to swing the shaft forward enough until I got the sway bar link out of the way. This actually went smoothly. Arrow was just for the benefit of the owner.
Onto the rear axle, I had JUST had the left rear drum off on the ground. Now, on the lift it simply would not come off. I backed the shoes off all the way and still no go. Finally I realized at full droop the parking brake cable on that side was getting pulled by an aftermarket sway bar link and engaging that side.
The nut on this link would not budge even with my 2967. My inductor wouldn't get it hot enough. Finally I got it cherry with the blue wrench and completely roasted the bushings and it came right off. This is where aftermarket stuff can be annoying -- there's always a catch.
Based on the rivets, I kinda wonder if these shoes aren't OEM at 210 miles:
I actually ordered new shoes with rivets again as the bonded sketches me a little for a truck with a camper. Neither O'Reilly or NAPA seem able to even get riveted shoes for this SF 14B, so RA it was. Unfortunately you can't get the good TSB-special-compound for the 2.5" shoes as best I could tell, so I just got some Centric "heavy duty"
I wasn't able to swing the shaft forward enough until I got the sway bar link out of the way. This actually went smoothly. Arrow was just for the benefit of the owner.
Onto the rear axle, I had JUST had the left rear drum off on the ground. Now, on the lift it simply would not come off. I backed the shoes off all the way and still no go. Finally I realized at full droop the parking brake cable on that side was getting pulled by an aftermarket sway bar link and engaging that side.
The nut on this link would not budge even with my 2967. My inductor wouldn't get it hot enough. Finally I got it cherry with the blue wrench and completely roasted the bushings and it came right off. This is where aftermarket stuff can be annoying -- there's always a catch.
Based on the rivets, I kinda wonder if these shoes aren't OEM at 210 miles:
I actually ordered new shoes with rivets again as the bonded sketches me a little for a truck with a camper. Neither O'Reilly or NAPA seem able to even get riveted shoes for this SF 14B, so RA it was. Unfortunately you can't get the good TSB-special-compound for the 2.5" shoes as best I could tell, so I just got some Centric "heavy duty"
This is a side that fascinates me incredibly.Doing a lot of electrical diag the past couple weeks, Using the Pico OBD breakout box quite a bit for CAN diag as you can easily see when the network comes back up via the LED's when unplugging modules/inline connectors.
Knocked out a much needed project this morning: treated our WJ to a new set of front door weatherstrips. The originals had shrunk and would dangle all over, not to mention the wind noise.
I'm very impressed with the fit and finish of these aftermarket seals from Fairchild Industries, especially for the $42/pr asking price.
I decided to make the most of the day and tackle another project that I've been avoiding... rear knuckle bushings on my '95 Seville. I discovered the failed bushings back when I got the car, it's just one of those jobs that I assumed was going to be a pain in the rear (no pun intended). As luck would have it, the job ended up being much ado about nothing.
Removing the knuckle itself was a breeze: remove caliper and bracket as an assembly, brake rotor, electrical plug for the WSS, and 3 bolts holding the knuckle to the control arms. The bushings themselves were in ROUGH shape, way worse than they felt while on the car. It's no wonder the rear end felt like it had a mind of its own in cross winds and over bumps.
Removing the old bushings was fairly simple. I rented the basic ball joint tool from OR to assist, however I ended up only using it for installation as I was able to hammer the old bushings out without much trouble. Honestly, I was expecting much more of a fight.
I stuck the new bushings in the freezer about an hour before starting the teardown which made reassembly a breeze; they pressed in easily with the ball joint press and a 1/2" ratchet. The included installation sleeves were much appreciated, hats off to SKP for including them.
Handling has been vastly improved vs. the old, blown out bushings. I'm not sure how far the camber/toe changed with all that slop, but it had to be multiple degrees. Now that I've seen the condition that the RR was in, I think I'll go ahead and order another set for the LR. At $20, it seems like a must.
Removing the knuckle itself was a breeze: remove caliper and bracket as an assembly, brake rotor, electrical plug for the WSS, and 3 bolts holding the knuckle to the control arms. The bushings themselves were in ROUGH shape, way worse than they felt while on the car. It's no wonder the rear end felt like it had a mind of its own in cross winds and over bumps.
Removing the old bushings was fairly simple. I rented the basic ball joint tool from OR to assist, however I ended up only using it for installation as I was able to hammer the old bushings out without much trouble. Honestly, I was expecting much more of a fight.
I stuck the new bushings in the freezer about an hour before starting the teardown which made reassembly a breeze; they pressed in easily with the ball joint press and a 1/2" ratchet. The included installation sleeves were much appreciated, hats off to SKP for including them.
Handling has been vastly improved vs. the old, blown out bushings. I'm not sure how far the camber/toe changed with all that slop, but it had to be multiple degrees. Now that I've seen the condition that the RR was in, I think I'll go ahead and order another set for the LR. At $20, it seems like a must.