What are you working on today?

Did a little odds and ends on the rubbie Pontiac Sunfire. Oil change completed...... easy enough but the filter on the OHV 2.2 was less than fun. Threw on a made in US Motomaster OEM plus and in went some Co-op Elite 5w30 conventional.

It has a random CEL that I haven't scanned yet and the plugs are worn to nubs. The local dealer has some on order.

Started bleeding the brakes but some of the bleeders are frozen in so that's a work in progress. The front slide pins were dry as all hell so they got some silicone.

A few drain and fills of the dark PS fluid with some Dex/Merc quieted things down.

Up next is a transmission fluid exchange and check the back brakes. After that, bomb it around.
 
Trav said:
Yep no exhaust on the L/Side only the right. Strange it has has multiple boot failures, I wonder what the cause is?
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I swear it just seems to me they used the crappiest neoprene they could get, which is infuriating because the outer boot is TPE of course.

I did some power braking and don't see the engine moving, but I don't know if that's an effective test on an AWD boxer?
 
D60 said:
I swear it just seems to me they used the crappiest neoprene they could get, which is infuriating because the outer boot is TPE of course.

I did some power braking and don't see the engine moving, but I don't know if that's an effective test on an AWD boxer?
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It will move if they are bad but not as much as you would think because of the torque strut on the rear of the engine to the firewall.
Check them with a block of wood and a pry bar pay close attention to the trans mount, these are known trouble makers, I see people changing cv axles multiple times for vibration when all the time the trans was moving back and forth like a fiddlers elbow.
I have no idea about the quality of the material used for the inner boots, after 3 harsh winters these are still good. When I do the next oil change I will clean them with dawn dish soap and get a better look at them.
 
Took down this stump below grade. Ran the chain into the dirt a lot. I don't care. New chain a lot cheaper than stump grinder. Job completed. I think even @Zee09 would agree with me.
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walterjay said:
Took down this stump below grade. Ran the chain into the dirt a lot. I don't care. New chain a lot cheaper than stump grinder. Job completed. I think even @Zee09 would agree with me.
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Depends on the tree. I did that to some magic stump the previous idiot left. 4 years ago now. Bisterd is still staring at me!
 
Wasn't done today but over the last few weeks even months since I've been away:

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These are the cold rolled steel sleeves we had to create in order to allow the Monroe 66608 shocks to fit or be installed on the van. Along with the steel sleeves, we needed a few thin and thick washer ordered from McMaster-Carr.com

Handed off the damaged wheels to our powder coaters..
imageedit_5_5581777545.webp

The issue here is, I thought I'd allow my friend to repair and powder coat these.. I was wrong.. Although the supplied eastwood hotcoat silver color is correct, the repair wasn't done correctly.. so our powder coaters is going to repair and recoat the wheels.. this will take 5 weeks..

We started placing the sound dampening sheets in the van, we're currently waiting on 6 rolls of the dark grey alcantara fabric wrap to cover the sound dampening sheets.

Oil changed, trans drain / fill and new fuel injectors need to be done next week.

Bought 2 set of the discontinued Nokian G4's. the rear tires need to be replaced as the fender edge has made contact with them a few times..
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Lastly, been searching for the center caps for the wheels. Axe wheel discontinued them so i contacted a guy who 3D prints.. had him create 8 caps. Then contacted our rebadge guy to have him redesign the Axe wheel logo.. we got the caps, now waiting on the cap badges.
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Repositioned the constant tension on the trucks lower rad hose couple days ago so ran it till got really hot. Not leaking for now but I got a new hose. Had the problem in the past. Trimmed the windscreen a couple inches on the scooter. Terrible job but its broke anyways. Undecided but at least it’s cooler.

Neighbor put this mower on the curb. Thought with the Honda it was worth saving. Needs a control cable, one wheel and a blade. I’ve changed the oil couple times. Fired up once I figured out the cable and a pair of clampons. If it was a Briggs would scrapped it after the last one.
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wander2039 said:
Repositioned the constant tension on the trucks lower rad hose couple days ago so ran it till got really hot. Not leaking for now but I got a new hose. Had the problem in the past. Trimmed the windscreen a couple inches on the scooter. Terrible job but its broke anyways. Undecided but at least it’s cooler.

Neighbor put this mower on the curb. Thought with the Honda it was worth saving. Needs a control cable, one wheel and a blade. I’ve changed the oil couple times. Fired up once I figured out the cable and a pair of clampons. If it was a Briggs would scrapped it after the last one.
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You find all the deals!

Tie Dakota may have a lazy thermostat or it could be sticking. Ask me how I know.
 
53' Stude said:
You find all the deals!

Tie Dakota may have a lazy thermostat or it could be sticking. Ask me how I know.
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Time will tell how good of deal. The last mower I grabbed off the street threw a rod but that was a Briggs. Thermostat is new and temp seems consistent now. After the timing chain change must of had a big air pocket. Every time I get the cooling system good something happens.
 
I guess this could be something i'm working on lining up to have done to the van. Had a chat with a youtuber today and we've reached an agreement to have him install a few things on the van, just so he can create some interesting content for his channel.. One can look for this video on his youtube channel which will be announced early this fall.
 
Currently on lunch break at work. Been working on replacing a 15hp electric motor on a seed drying fan.

Last couple days I've been working on a hub pilot conversion on my dump truck. 4 new drive hubs with new bearings and seals, S cams and bushings, slack adjusters, 8 new aluminum wheels and all new brake shoes and drums. I had 3 hubs with cracked ears from being overtightened and all 4 drive drums were shot. I was quoted $900/drum and $1100/hub so $6900 to replace 3 hubs and all 4 drums. This entire conversion set me back less than $6000 and the hubs are $450 and the drums are just over $100 moving forward.

I also received one of my newest purchases today, a 1994 Ford E-350 ambulance. I had been wanting an ambulance box for a while and this one went up for sealed bid a few miles from home. The plan is to keep the box, get the chassis running and sell it to get into the bed free. Build a trailer frame to set the box on and convert it into a camper. I put my jump box on it before I left for work tonight and it spun over great. I'm going to bleed the fuel system on the 7.3IDI and I bet it will take off. It has been sitting 7-8 years according to the local town I bought it from.

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Made some tie rod sleeves for a GMT800. Not about saving money 'cause these are so cheap. Sometimes it's just fun to belly up to the lathe and mill and build something.

Drilling holes 'n stuff
20250515_140204.webp
20250515_142406.webp


Wrench flats
20250515_145729.webp

I installed one new inner TRE and it bumps up to .590", giving me enough meat to put in wrench flats at 1/2". The sleeves cover up the hex and alignment techs sometimes complain. But I only did one side because the other was tight and doesn't neck up.
20250515_170137.webp

Installed
20250515_173410.webp

My sexy marketing photo for my non-existent product page ;)
20250515_152004.webp
 
D60 said:
Made some tie rod sleeves for a GMT800. Not about saving money 'cause these are so cheap. Sometimes it's just fun to belly up to the lathe and mill and build something.

Drilling holes 'n stuffView attachment 279470View attachment 279471

Wrench flats
View attachment 279472
I installed one new inner TRE and it bumps up to .590", giving me enough meat to put in wrench flats at 1/2". The sleeves cover up the hex and alignment techs sometimes complain. But I only did one side because the other was tight and doesn't neck up.
View attachment 279473
Installed
View attachment 279474
My sexy marketing photo for my non-existent product page ;)View attachment 279475
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I wish I had a good lathe.
 
To set GM tie rods with a semblance of accuracy I made this crude jig years ago. It's just Al flat bar tapped M18x1.5.

The idea is you thread the inner TRE in until fully seated and measure to the zerk center, which is pretty easy to eyeball. Also we're assuming the zerk is dead center. This is the most objective way to measure because castings can vary and thread counting is wildly inaccurate IME.

Obviously you need an old setup to measure before disturbing the jam nut, then set your new assy at the same length.

Trying to juggle the camera I buried the zerk behind the tape in the photo:
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