What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
(I'm sure they were using every improper recovery technique in the book but God watches over children and fools)
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
My 2012 F150 3.7
264,367 miles
My passenger side valve cover had been leaking for about 2 weeks, dripping right on my exhaust manifold, nice smell in the cab at certain speeds and outside
ordered a complete cover and gaskets from Amazon and tore it apart today. Original gasket was split as you can see in the pic and was as brittle as can be. Good to go now
264,367 miles
My passenger side valve cover had been leaking for about 2 weeks, dripping right on my exhaust manifold, nice smell in the cab at certain speeds and outside
ordered a complete cover and gaskets from Amazon and tore it apart today. Original gasket was split as you can see in the pic and was as brittle as can be. Good to go now
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- Nov 20, 2021
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2006 Jeep Liberty
Replaced front strut assemblies, lower left ball joint, battery terminals and changed oil
1998 GMC Jimmy
Diagnosed with a bad water pump, radiator and intake gaskets. Waiting to see if that one gets fixed or parted out. It's ROUGH
Replaced front strut assemblies, lower left ball joint, battery terminals and changed oil
1998 GMC Jimmy
Diagnosed with a bad water pump, radiator and intake gaskets. Waiting to see if that one gets fixed or parted out. It's ROUGH
1992 Chevy Silverado....Installed a 383 stroker with a Holley 750 street avenger a few months back, Leaned the choke out a bit, Changed the oil, Installed a fresh set of NGK V-powers 1 step hotter to help with the cooler weather.
Diagnosed a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L/ZF8HP.....Misfire on #5, Pulled the valve cover & found the intake rocker arm dead/zero movement.
Sold a complete engine overhaul using a TSP MDS delete camshaft & the latest updated non-MDS Mopar lifters.
1993 Dodge D350, 5.9L Cummins/Getrag 360.....Leaking fuel heater which I deleted, Changed the fuel filter, Changed the oil, The wiper linkage needed new bushings (Common on older Chrysler products)....And the radio would cut in & out which was caused by a internally broken fuse (Not thermally blown).
Diagnosed a 2014 Ram 1500 5.7L/ZF8HP.....Misfire on #5, Pulled the valve cover & found the intake rocker arm dead/zero movement.
Sold a complete engine overhaul using a TSP MDS delete camshaft & the latest updated non-MDS Mopar lifters.
1993 Dodge D350, 5.9L Cummins/Getrag 360.....Leaking fuel heater which I deleted, Changed the fuel filter, Changed the oil, The wiper linkage needed new bushings (Common on older Chrysler products)....And the radio would cut in & out which was caused by a internally broken fuse (Not thermally blown).
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- Nov 20, 2021
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Any chance they'll go with fuel injection on the stroker in the future?
Spent the better half of today in the heated shop. It's frigid cold, so I spent time on my daughters 2004 Escape. Yesterday it received a new Windshield.
Today was fresh 75w90 gear oil in the rear diff. Noticed one of the axle seals has a slight leak, will monitor and maybe change it out later this year. Then Fresh 80w140 in the PTU. 3.5L drain and fill on the transmission. Another spill and fill on the PS reservoir. Reattached the antenna for the remote start. Fixed some trim below the steering wheel to eliminate a rattle. Siliconed my white trash connector fix for the vent valve. Finished up with a partial brake bleed.
So, the bleed screws were all a bit rusty. I managed to get the fronts removed and bled fine. Need to find out which size Allan head I will need to remove the caliper slide pins. The rear bleed screws were in bad shape. Hit them with some impact force with no luck. I should have started with heat but it looked like a slight amount of movement. Snapped one and the other was likely on that path. I will let the last one soak a few more days and then introduce heat. I'll have to grab a new cylinder and swap it out.
The test drive went well and she performs as expected other than a new CEL. Found the connector to the EGR was loose, an easy fix.
So what's really left is finish the brakes, figure out why the rear defrost won't work (fuse and relay are good) and another spill and fill on the transmission.
Today was fresh 75w90 gear oil in the rear diff. Noticed one of the axle seals has a slight leak, will monitor and maybe change it out later this year. Then Fresh 80w140 in the PTU. 3.5L drain and fill on the transmission. Another spill and fill on the PS reservoir. Reattached the antenna for the remote start. Fixed some trim below the steering wheel to eliminate a rattle. Siliconed my white trash connector fix for the vent valve. Finished up with a partial brake bleed.
So, the bleed screws were all a bit rusty. I managed to get the fronts removed and bled fine. Need to find out which size Allan head I will need to remove the caliper slide pins. The rear bleed screws were in bad shape. Hit them with some impact force with no luck. I should have started with heat but it looked like a slight amount of movement. Snapped one and the other was likely on that path. I will let the last one soak a few more days and then introduce heat. I'll have to grab a new cylinder and swap it out.
The test drive went well and she performs as expected other than a new CEL. Found the connector to the EGR was loose, an easy fix.
So what's really left is finish the brakes, figure out why the rear defrost won't work (fuse and relay are good) and another spill and fill on the transmission.
I woke up "extra early" for a Saturday morning and got 3hr of work done before the rest of the family woke up.
1) Neighbor came over with his 2010 Camry V6. Both inner CV boots were throwing grease and I do not have the time to remove, reboot and reinstall both CV axles in one sitting for him. As a "temporary" solution, I installed two Trakmotive axles from Rockauto. At $140 shipped for both with a lifetime warranty, it will have to work for now...but I probably just signed up to replace them every year.
Both axles were fairly seized into the knuckle and the carrier bearing bracket so my air hammer got a good workout. I also reattached a loose fog light and installed the missing front brake pad wear indicator clips. He will be back at a later date for more free work that I upsold: a trans service, both front lower control arms, dog bone mount, drive belt and valve cover gaskets.
2) Another neighbor came over for a first oil change at 5K on his new Toyota. I didn't even have to rotate the tires; he is going to claim his Toyotacare 5K.
3) I removed the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield on my Ram to check for a cracked manifold. I had been hearing ticking noises from that bank. Unfortunately (or fortunately), it was not cracked.
1) Neighbor came over with his 2010 Camry V6. Both inner CV boots were throwing grease and I do not have the time to remove, reboot and reinstall both CV axles in one sitting for him. As a "temporary" solution, I installed two Trakmotive axles from Rockauto. At $140 shipped for both with a lifetime warranty, it will have to work for now...but I probably just signed up to replace them every year.
Both axles were fairly seized into the knuckle and the carrier bearing bracket so my air hammer got a good workout. I also reattached a loose fog light and installed the missing front brake pad wear indicator clips. He will be back at a later date for more free work that I upsold: a trans service, both front lower control arms, dog bone mount, drive belt and valve cover gaskets.
2) Another neighbor came over for a first oil change at 5K on his new Toyota. I didn't even have to rotate the tires; he is going to claim his Toyotacare 5K.
3) I removed the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield on my Ram to check for a cracked manifold. I had been hearing ticking noises from that bank. Unfortunately (or fortunately), it was not cracked.
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On the ram, and I'm sure you already know this, but the hemis are bad about having broken rear exhaust manifold bolts
For the EM, you were just inspecting visually? My non-profit's '12 does this, and with fuel line in my ear I found it at the bottom where it meets the head, kinda rear-ish (vs toward the front)
That said, I've never actually done anything about it......
Step 1: identify problem
Step 2: turn up radio and pretend problem does not exist
I've been obsessing over physics, leverage, snatch blocks and pulleys for the past month to add a manual winch to raise/lower the trailer gate. It weighs a good 120lbs or more and has been tiring. My first attempt was a failure as I didnt have the right leverage and angles going. This is attempt #2. Last night I welded on scrap tubing to gain more height, this morning I welded on some pulleys and things finally came together. Half the welds look terrible, but everything is holding at the most difficult angle and hasn't turned itself into a medieval trebuchet. It also raises/lowers just fine. Now to unload a zillion pallets..
My car hauler ramps just came with torsion springs. You'd have to rework the hinge pivot(s) but that would be the most elegant approach.
I actually deleted them for two reasons: they made ramp removal and installation a real headache and they prevented the ramps from lying flat on the deck (which makes removal and installation REALLY easy)
People are only getting crazier out there sooo...
Figure $250 now can possibly save some headaches later...
Figure $250 now can possibly save some headaches later...
I dunno, the second I hook up a trailer ‐‐ esp to a gasser -- I don't even think about mileage. Give me my 6.2 with a 35gal tank and just stop when the gauge reads low
Put together a deal to sell my Regal. Bittersweet seeing it go, but I had to make room after bringing home the Seville and it made the most sense to let go of the car that sits the most.
Had it almost 2 years and sold for $1k less than I paid for it. I probably could have gotten more had I held out for nicer weather, but this way I can stash the cash where it'll make me money instead of collecting dust in the garage.
Had it almost 2 years and sold for $1k less than I paid for it. I probably could have gotten more had I held out for nicer weather, but this way I can stash the cash where it'll make me money instead of collecting dust in the garage.
This very engine had a FAST EZ-EFI system on it when I pulled it out of a '96 Silverado that got a cammed 6.0L LS swap. It would run okay one day then like trash the next.
All FAST tech line did was waste my time & the customers money.
Looks like the flange & bolt are bent....Way to go "Factory Trained Technicians"!
Every domestic manufacturer has issues with cast iron manifolds moving around/scrubbing VS the aluminum cylinder head.....But FCA is by far the worst. Rarely do I see a Hemi that doesn't have a pretty good cold exhaust tick.
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I've heard that holleys tech line isn't much better, but haven't experienced first hand. Have you had any experience with the sniper units? I know several folks locally who've had the same experience with them that your customer was having with the FAST system