Finished the ramp Sunday mid-day. The main deck had shifted a few inches outward, I used the forklift attachment and pushed the deck back towards the house, then added 45 degree bracing along the bottom of the deck. It didnt move after the bracing, I think it will last a long while. Next trip will fix the main safety rails and other odds/ends.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Finished the ramp Sunday mid-day. The main deck had shifted a few inches outward, I used the forklift attachment and pushed the deck back towards the house, then added 45 degree bracing along the bottom of the deck. It didnt move after the bracing, I think it will last a long while. Next trip will fix the main safety rails and other odds/ends.
Mazda had the MPV (Mostly Plastic Van), Chevy had the Lumina APV (All Plastic Van) and now on the 3.5 V6 Toyota brings you the MPT, Mostly Plastic Thermostat!
Funny thing, Toyota calls it a "water inlet" but don't tell that to Aisin....
Honestly....look, it works. It's easy enough to swap despite four hose connections and an electrical plug on a "thermostat." My main beef would be cost: no reason a "thermostat" has to cost ~$105 at the dealer or roughly $75 including shipping from RA. My most-local dealer wanted $148, but they take all standard Toyota retail and jack it up.
What's wrong with a $20 round metal disc???
Funny thing, Toyota calls it a "water inlet" but don't tell that to Aisin....
Honestly....look, it works. It's easy enough to swap despite four hose connections and an electrical plug on a "thermostat." My main beef would be cost: no reason a "thermostat" has to cost ~$105 at the dealer or roughly $75 including shipping from RA. My most-local dealer wanted $148, but they take all standard Toyota retail and jack it up.
What's wrong with a $20 round metal disc???
Helped my buddy weld up a rattly aftermarket exhaust on a '97 XJ
This is the first 2wd XJ I've personally seen. I don't think they were that common and 2wd "optional" vehicles aren't that common in Colorado in general, for obvious reasons.
I find it a bit.....unsettling like decaf coffee, alcohol free beer or faux beadlocks.
Monobeam front axle but no diff in an XJ. It's just creepy
Looks like they kept the same inner Cs and knuckles and just did a block-off plate of some sort.
The whole thing disturbs me....I feel like I need to take a shower and cry in a safe space.
This is the first 2wd XJ I've personally seen. I don't think they were that common and 2wd "optional" vehicles aren't that common in Colorado in general, for obvious reasons.
I find it a bit.....unsettling like decaf coffee, alcohol free beer or faux beadlocks.
Monobeam front axle but no diff in an XJ. It's just creepy
Looks like they kept the same inner Cs and knuckles and just did a block-off plate of some sort.
The whole thing disturbs me....I feel like I need to take a shower and cry in a safe space.
I think XJ Jeep is the easiest thing to work on that is still on the road
2003 Chevy Tahoe Z71 5.3L/4L60E/NP246, Pretty nasty exhaust leak on the driver side from the 2 rear manifold bolts being sheared off.
The passenger side wasn't leaking & was gong to attempt to replace the bolts one at a time.....The rear one took near zero torque to break off.
So three bolts broke off at or below flush, The method I use is a 5/16" flat washer burnt onto the bolt.....Then I plug weld a 1/2" nut onto the flat washer, Let the cherry dissipate.
Break the bond slightly left then go back right the same amount......Then start turning it out.
The driver side manifold was to warped for my liking, Had a pretty straight used one in my stash.
ARP bolts & new GM gaskets to finish it out.
The passenger side wasn't leaking & was gong to attempt to replace the bolts one at a time.....The rear one took near zero torque to break off.
So three bolts broke off at or below flush, The method I use is a 5/16" flat washer burnt onto the bolt.....Then I plug weld a 1/2" nut onto the flat washer, Let the cherry dissipate.
Break the bond slightly left then go back right the same amount......Then start turning it out.
The driver side manifold was to warped for my liking, Had a pretty straight used one in my stash.
ARP bolts & new GM gaskets to finish it out.
Same 2003 Tahoe.....Yesterday I repaired the rear/auxiliary HVAC, The module was bad which looks likes a pretty new Dorman module,
Neither the Temp or Mode Actuators would display the correct positions. Swung both actuators back and forth manually & the door position counts never changed even though the voltage changed at the module.
Had a used OE module from a 2005 Suburban that fixed the issue.
Customer also wants electric cooling fans & brought a cooling fan assembly & harness from a '05-'07 GMT800. After finishing up the exhaust manifolds, I started working on the PCM side of controlling the fans correctly.
Seems simple enough, And it is if you're not concerned the fans being controlled via A/C head pressure-A/C pressure transducer input.
2003 is the worst year for this swap as there is no compatible OS that has a "Systems" patch for electric fans AND most don't have the correct hardware on the board (Missing some diodes).
GMT800's like to use 2-year pairs....'99/'00, '01/'02, '03/'04, '05/'06/'07. This Tahoe being Flex Fuel pretty much rules out '05-'07 with Enhanced EVAP/Virtual Alcohol Content system.
Found a '04 Tahoe Flex Fuel, And a '03 SSR file on HP-Tuners repository with the same OS means I can use the E-Fan Patch Segment from the SSR file.
Dug up five 2004 "P59" PCM's.....Only one had the same OS as the files I found on HP-Tuners, It's out of a 2004 Silverado 1500 4.3L/4L60E.
Swapped ALL the '04 Tahoe segments over to the '04 Silverado PCM file....Then segment swapped the SSR "Systems" segment over by itself.
I'll test it in the morning.
Neither the Temp or Mode Actuators would display the correct positions. Swung both actuators back and forth manually & the door position counts never changed even though the voltage changed at the module.
Had a used OE module from a 2005 Suburban that fixed the issue.
Customer also wants electric cooling fans & brought a cooling fan assembly & harness from a '05-'07 GMT800. After finishing up the exhaust manifolds, I started working on the PCM side of controlling the fans correctly.
Seems simple enough, And it is if you're not concerned the fans being controlled via A/C head pressure-A/C pressure transducer input.
2003 is the worst year for this swap as there is no compatible OS that has a "Systems" patch for electric fans AND most don't have the correct hardware on the board (Missing some diodes).
GMT800's like to use 2-year pairs....'99/'00, '01/'02, '03/'04, '05/'06/'07. This Tahoe being Flex Fuel pretty much rules out '05-'07 with Enhanced EVAP/Virtual Alcohol Content system.
Found a '04 Tahoe Flex Fuel, And a '03 SSR file on HP-Tuners repository with the same OS means I can use the E-Fan Patch Segment from the SSR file.
Dug up five 2004 "P59" PCM's.....Only one had the same OS as the files I found on HP-Tuners, It's out of a 2004 Silverado 1500 4.3L/4L60E.
Swapped ALL the '04 Tahoe segments over to the '04 Silverado PCM file....Then segment swapped the SSR "Systems" segment over by itself.
I'll test it in the morning.
Went over to my fiancé's dad's house to help them bleed the brakes on his brother's 2012 Jeep Liberty. The had replaced pads and rotors on the front yesterday but couldn't seem to get the brakes bled so that the peddle felt good even though they didn't see anymore air come out of the bleeder.
Today they replaced the rear pads and rotors but had not bled the rear brakes yet. I brought over my Speedi-bleed pressure bleeder and had the rear brakes bled in no time. I did the front's again, but they seemed to be bled good since I didn't get any air to come out, just pure fluid.
Brake pedal felt fine with the vehicle off, but the pedal went pretty close to the floor with the engine running. I used my Launch X431 scanner to bleed the brakes in case there was air in the ABS pump but that didn't change how the pedal felt with the vehicle running. The owner took it for a drive and activated the ABS several times, but it didn't change the pedal feel. The vehicle would stop though, and he said it felt better than it did yesterday.
I did find out that the parking brake shoes were shot, and they removed them and did not install new ones, so I don't know if that has anything to do with the pedal feel. He may put a master cylinder in it to see if that makes a difference. The brake light and ABS light in the instrument cluster were not on and there were no codes in the ABS module. He had to go so we didn't look into it any further today.
I will say that I love this Speedi-bleed pressure bleeder. It works great and does the job quickly.
Today they replaced the rear pads and rotors but had not bled the rear brakes yet. I brought over my Speedi-bleed pressure bleeder and had the rear brakes bled in no time. I did the front's again, but they seemed to be bled good since I didn't get any air to come out, just pure fluid.
Brake pedal felt fine with the vehicle off, but the pedal went pretty close to the floor with the engine running. I used my Launch X431 scanner to bleed the brakes in case there was air in the ABS pump but that didn't change how the pedal felt with the vehicle running. The owner took it for a drive and activated the ABS several times, but it didn't change the pedal feel. The vehicle would stop though, and he said it felt better than it did yesterday.
I did find out that the parking brake shoes were shot, and they removed them and did not install new ones, so I don't know if that has anything to do with the pedal feel. He may put a master cylinder in it to see if that makes a difference. The brake light and ABS light in the instrument cluster were not on and there were no codes in the ABS module. He had to go so we didn't look into it any further today.
I will say that I love this Speedi-bleed pressure bleeder. It works great and does the job quickly.
As is my custom, an unnecessarily lengthy tale of exhaust on a '98 Ram 1500:
Owned by an elderly widow who volunteers at my non-profit, I found the rear "tailpipe" section rotted away. This type of rot is impressive for CO, although I realize this is nothing in other parts of the country. The left and right exhaust hangers had torn off and the top of the pipe was Swiss cheese:
Walker makes this portion of pipe and it's actually well-reviewed, sold as part #55175. Once I had it it was clear the vehicle had an aftermarket exhaust as the husband was a bit of a gearhead when he was alive.
The Walker part fit well but was nowhere near lining up with the aftermarket muffler. It was clear the OEM muffler had an offset inlet/outlet.
I had to get this finished today so strolled behind my shop into white trash land and found an old stock system for a '19 Ranger @ctechbob
The muffler looked like it would work but I had to dissect it:
When I took down the aftermarket Ram muffler this came tumbling out LOL (BITOG enforcers need not panic -- I did not lay hands on the cat in any way and we do NOT have inspections of any sort):
Through excessive f***ery and pasting parts together, I finally got the system complete:
Built Ford Tough in a 2nd Gen Ram:
For fun I enjoy trying to weld all the way around with an inspection mirror (foreground is burnt sticker of a 2.5" coupler)
Owned by an elderly widow who volunteers at my non-profit, I found the rear "tailpipe" section rotted away. This type of rot is impressive for CO, although I realize this is nothing in other parts of the country. The left and right exhaust hangers had torn off and the top of the pipe was Swiss cheese:
Walker makes this portion of pipe and it's actually well-reviewed, sold as part #55175. Once I had it it was clear the vehicle had an aftermarket exhaust as the husband was a bit of a gearhead when he was alive.
The Walker part fit well but was nowhere near lining up with the aftermarket muffler. It was clear the OEM muffler had an offset inlet/outlet.
I had to get this finished today so strolled behind my shop into white trash land and found an old stock system for a '19 Ranger @ctechbob
The muffler looked like it would work but I had to dissect it:
When I took down the aftermarket Ram muffler this came tumbling out LOL (BITOG enforcers need not panic -- I did not lay hands on the cat in any way and we do NOT have inspections of any sort):
Through excessive f***ery and pasting parts together, I finally got the system complete:
Built Ford Tough in a 2nd Gen Ram:
For fun I enjoy trying to weld all the way around with an inspection mirror (foreground is burnt sticker of a 2.5" coupler)
First round of purchases for the cheap flip Civic arrived
People like two keys with their used cars right
I pulled the keycode off the trunk lock barrel, $32.65 later a pre cut unit was delivered to my door
Unfortunately, it wasn't cut very well
I had to take a file to the exterior perimeter, smooth out some burrs
Then it slid into the ignition smoothly
Programming these older Honda's isn't too difficult, most recent mid tier scan tools can do it
For science, I tried programming in an AKL scenario, with the K518 Pro and the KM100
Both completed the task with no issue
It's got a battery drain issue, and the driver's door lock actuator is bad, these two things are related, as the (standard on EX) alarm never really arms
Most adequate
A very cheap eBay special door lock actuator is on the way
People like two keys with their used cars right
I pulled the keycode off the trunk lock barrel, $32.65 later a pre cut unit was delivered to my door
Unfortunately, it wasn't cut very well
I had to take a file to the exterior perimeter, smooth out some burrs
Then it slid into the ignition smoothly
Programming these older Honda's isn't too difficult, most recent mid tier scan tools can do it
For science, I tried programming in an AKL scenario, with the K518 Pro and the KM100
Both completed the task with no issue
It's got a battery drain issue, and the driver's door lock actuator is bad, these two things are related, as the (standard on EX) alarm never really arms
Most adequate
A very cheap eBay special door lock actuator is on the way
1999 Ram 1500
-oil change
-transmission service
-diag faulty NSS causing no reverse lights, part should arrive tomorrow
-front brakes with clearance Auto Extra rotors and "Famous Brand" CQ pads. The pad kit actually included all the stupid rubber bushings that the slider pins ride on, so that was nice:
-another driver side mirror with a vertical crack so I took care of that with the ~$4 piece of glass from RA:
-replaced license plate light lenses and harnii with cheap aftermarket. New left, old right:
Voila:
-oil change
-transmission service
-diag faulty NSS causing no reverse lights, part should arrive tomorrow
-front brakes with clearance Auto Extra rotors and "Famous Brand" CQ pads. The pad kit actually included all the stupid rubber bushings that the slider pins ride on, so that was nice:
-another driver side mirror with a vertical crack so I took care of that with the ~$4 piece of glass from RA:
-replaced license plate light lenses and harnii with cheap aftermarket. New left, old right:
Voila: