What are you working on today?

Tried diagnosing why none of my scanners will not communicate with the ECM on my 1992 Cavalier. Recently my ABS light came on after a very hard stop. Initially the light would go out the longer you drove. For about a week, you could hear the ABS pump cycle under the hood and the light would go out right after starting the car. Now it doesn't cycle at all, and the ABS light stays on constant.

I first tried using my Snap On MT2500 scanner on the car and it would not communicate except for one time. I have not had the scanner very long as it was an Ebay purchase, and I didn't know if it had a problem.

With the bad weather and time issues, I didn't look at the car again until yesterday. I tried two other scanners that I have that have communicated with it in the past with no problems. Both of these would not communicate either. I have the factory service manual and found what lines of the DLC do what. It only has four lines going to it. Pin A is ground to the ECM, B is the diagnostic test line to the ECM, M is the serial data line. The fourth pin is for TCC. The voltage for the diagnostic test line is supposed to be 5 volts which I had 4.96. The voltage for pin M, the serial data line is supposed to be 4.7 volts and I had .006 volts which I assume is my problem. Pin A, the ground, did show 0 volts. These lines apparently go through the instrument cluster connector so this might also be a problem area. The ECM is mounted above the glove compartment behind a plastic panel, so a decent amount of stuff has to be removed to get to it.

The weather will be bad again in the coming days so any more trouble shooting will have to be on hold since I have to work on it outside. I'm going to access the instrument cluster connector before trying to get to the ECM and test there.

All of this work is mainly to see if I can diagnose this communication problem more so than trying to fix the ABS problem as I don't really care if the ABS works and getting parts to fix whatever is wrong is probably impossible. I don't think it's an ECM problem because when I short pins A & B together at the DLC, I do get code 12 to flash continually. It's the only code that shows up. Service information does say though that it could still be an ECM problem if I don't find any problems with the serial data line such as an open or short to ground.
 
Dropped stuff off at auction and picked up some winnings. A 150 gallon water trough, scrap metal, and a locked up 1 cyl Yanmar diesel military water pump made in 1994 painted in desert storm. It calls for API - CD 15w40. Not sure if I have any.

1738715517174.webp
 
Tried diagnosing why none of my scanners will not communicate with the ECM on my 1992 Cavalier. Recently my ABS light came on after a very hard stop. Initially the light would go out the longer you drove. For about a week, you could hear the ABS pump cycle under the hood and the light would go out right after starting the car. Now it doesn't cycle at all, and the ABS light stays on constant.

I first tried using my Snap On MT2500 scanner on the car and it would not communicate except for one time. I have not had the scanner very long as it was an Ebay purchase, and I didn't know if it had a problem.

With the bad weather and time issues, I didn't look at the car again until yesterday. I tried two other scanners that I have that have communicated with it in the past with no problems. Both of these would not communicate either. I have the factory service manual and found what lines of the DLC do what. It only has four lines going to it. Pin A is ground to the ECM, B is the diagnostic test line to the ECM, M is the serial data line. The fourth pin is for TCC. The voltage for the diagnostic test line is supposed to be 5 volts which I had 4.96. The voltage for pin M, the serial data line is supposed to be 4.7 volts and I had .006 volts which I assume is my problem. Pin A, the ground, did show 0 volts. These lines apparently go through the instrument cluster connector so this might also be a problem area. The ECM is mounted above the glove compartment behind a plastic panel, so a decent amount of stuff has to be removed to get to it.

The weather will be bad again in the coming days so any more trouble shooting will have to be on hold since I have to work on it outside. I'm going to access the instrument cluster connector before trying to get to the ECM and test there.

All of this work is mainly to see if I can diagnose this communication problem more so than trying to fix the ABS problem as I don't really care if the ABS works and getting parts to fix whatever is wrong is probably impossible. I don't think it's an ECM problem because when I short pins A & B together at the DLC, I do get code 12 to flash continually. It's the only code that shows up. Service information does say though that it could still be an ECM problem if I don't find any problems with the serial data line such as an open or short to ground.
Kinda related, but it was a no-start
 
Rear brakes on a '13 Kia Optima for a young, broke girl in our church. She pad slapped it herself (which I think is awesome) but they were squealing pretty good.

I looked at it briefly, couldn't see much wrong. Once I got into it an abutment clip was rubbing the OD of the rotors -- BUT I had already grabbed clearance/closeout pads and rotors for $58 total and just redid the brake job.

Never done one of these; kinda screwy how you have to move a control arm to get at the lower caliper bracket bolt. Then the flange head of the bolt barely passes by the shock, but a flat spot with my belt sander made that problem go away for reassembly ;)
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one is sediment only, and the other is sediment/carbon. i didn’t want to zap all of the chlorine to avoid growth in toilets/shower. stubbed the gauges in to see dP to determine replacement schedule. these are supposedly lead free brass gauges safe for potable water.
You know your stuff. I rocked sediment filters in my old house and they did catch stuff. I tried carbon and all the fixtures turned black. Went back to sediment.

But in the kitchen? 2 gallon reverse osmosis filter under the sink has been a treat.

https://a.co/d/iC0Fk5H

Gotta keep an eye on the lines though … all these guys are known for leaking and ruining a kitchen. In our house now, it’s in the garage and I go out there for water.
 
Kinda related, but it was a no-start

I think I have watched this video in the past. I have watched most of his YT videos and a bunch on his premium channel.

My car runs fine. I just want to fix the issue in case my CEL does come on in the future.
 
Replaced valve cover gaskets on '98 Ram 1500 5.2
View attachment 262039
A ring terminal broke off a heavy-ish gauge ground, so I pulled out my import crimper for the first time in a long time, selected the incorrect die set and did the worst, flattest crush ‐ er I mean crimp - you've ever seen. View attachment 262040
Eh, it's a ground. It'll work
I love these terminal crimping tools
 
New front struts on '13 Optima. I just can't bring myself to do quick struts, and I hate how quality struts + mounts add up $ so quickly.

Anyway I ordered Sachs/TRW for the struts. You gotta know US or Korea build for the struts ‐‐ I think the sway bar link mount moved. The TRWs say made in S Korea, so I figure for a Kia that's good.

I ordered Auto7 upper mounts. I know nothing of Auto7 but they claim they're OEM H/K. They were RA closeouts at ~$4.40/ea so I thought I was super clever.
20250205_113732.webp

I briefly paused because they did not say "includes bearing", but I thought, "Who sells an upper front mount without the bearing?" Answer: these guys.

I gotta get it back together today but fortunately the bearings don't feel too bad. For the first time I decided to try the trick of drilling a little hole and pumping grease in there. It seems to have worked really well.
20250205_113450.webp

Patented foot hold down:
20250205_113439.webp

Kia uses a cool system where the bearing slips on the mount. Then the bellow pops into place and then the jounce bumper pops into the ID of the bellow, holding it all captive:
20250205_122009.webp
 
This is an old import with numbers stamped on the dies that don't correlate to AWG so in a perfect world a test run is recommended :D
I've got one I got through an old job from Kimball Midwest. Leaks a little hydraulic fluid but always works.
 
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Wednesday
2016 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6 V6
R&I upper intake to replace ignition coils and spark plugs, replaced air filter, R&I bumper cover to replace radiator, changed oil

Today
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 Vortec V8
replaced air filter, wiper blades, rotated tires, inspected brakes, changed oil

1997 GMC Sierra 1500 5.0 Vortec V8
Replaced distributor cap and rotor button, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, replaced radiator. More to do on it tomorrow.
 
My son brought his no start string trimmer over . The primer bulb was cracked so we replaced it . Then we found a leaking seam in the fuel tank . Cleaned the seam and slathered on some Two Part Epoxy . Hopefully it will hold until he can order a new tank .
 
Wednesday
2016 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.6 V6
R&I upper intake to replace ignition coils and spark plugs, replaced air filter, R&I bumper cover to replace radiator, changed oil

Today
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 Vortec V8
replaced air filter, wiper blades, rotated tires, inspected brakes, changed oil

1997 GMC Sierra 1500 5.0 Vortec V8
Replaced distributor cap and rotor button, replaced fuel filter, replaced air filter, replaced radiator. More to do on it tomorrow.
1997 GMC Sierra got new radiator hoses, oil cooler lines, and an oil change.

2006 Toyota Corolla
Replaced front sway bar links, rotated tires, changed oil
 
New brakes on a tri axle fuel trailer today, and set 16 new mouse traps around the shop. With this temperature drop the past week, the mice are really trying to get inside for warmth.
 
Picked up a decent 2004 Ford Escape for another runabout but essentially a first vehicle for my 16 year old daughter. It's got some rust out back but pretty decent with 227,000km. V6 and 4spd auto. Runs and drives great and price was decent as we bought it from some friends.

Today I aired up the tires, did a couple siphon and fills of the power steering, lubed up the door, hatch and hood latches. I had some compatible coolant for the Premium Gold so it was also topped up.

Next week I will do a drain and fill of the transmission, PTU, rear diff, brake bleed, lube the slide pins.

It needs a windshield, some swaybar end links, vent valve solenoid and maybe some struts bushings but it will be a work in progress.
 
I installed new LED Switchback lamps in my turn signal sockets. They illuminate white 5k matching the headlamps until I turn on the turn signals to where they flah amber and then back to 5k white again.
 
I installed new LED Switchback lamps in my turn signal sockets. They illuminate white 5k matching the headlamps until I turn on the turn signals to where they flah amber and then back to 5k white again.
Are you saying they flash alternating amber/white rather than amber/off like most do? That would be great. Do you have a link to them? Thanks.
 
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