Old plugs out, new plugs in. 17 Corolla 110k on factory plugs (they look pretty good, I think). Took 30 minutes and the dealer wanted over $300 
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I was asked to copy the blue Rockler router plate. He says they're NLA
Rough cutting on the bandsaw:
I drilled & tapped all the holes then indicated in my rotary table then indicated in the plate(s) for the plastic insert c-bore:
Plastic insert installed; bolt pattern is 3 on 4"
Rough cutting on the bandsaw:
I drilled & tapped all the holes then indicated in my rotary table then indicated in the plate(s) for the plastic insert c-bore:
Plastic insert installed; bolt pattern is 3 on 4"
Mazda 626 wouldn't start last Saturday. There was a click so think starter first. Got one ordered and today it went in. I definitely prefer changing out a starter on my V8's. Even my Focus is easy since the starter is front and center. Piece of cake. The 626 has an intake support bracket in the way needing many combinations of extensions. Need to remove items up top to get to the two top starter bolts. Mazda manual doesn't mention that. Nonetheless got it done.
Emergency crank sensor replacement on the neighbor's kid's girlfriend's '13 Elantra, complaint was intermittent hard start/stall
It would periodically set a P0335
Only OE for parts like this, Rockauto had it for ~$30
It's on the front of the engine, right next to the oil filter
Easy enough swap, glad to get it done before the snow came
Then just lots of washer fluid adding, tire airing, and jump pack charging
Gonna be a cold week
It would periodically set a P0335
Only OE for parts like this, Rockauto had it for ~$30
It's on the front of the engine, right next to the oil filter
Easy enough swap, glad to get it done before the snow came
Then just lots of washer fluid adding, tire airing, and jump pack charging
Gonna be a cold week
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Putting a winch on my trailer. Drilled some holes in a spare receiver and bolted it onto the trailed cross member. Should be good enough for now and may weld it another time. Need to work on wiring, using a small John Deere tractor toolbox should make it tidy. The weather is bad the next few days but should finish wednesday night.
Are you running massive cables from the engine compartment or a battery on the trailer? I've got some forklift connectors for just this project. Although after like 16 years I don't think it's gonna happen anytime soon.
2006 Hummer H3: new front wheel hub. The vehicle has about 230k mi and the hub that came out was a Moog and it was roasted. I found a "PAROD" brand in Warehouse Deals for $24 LOL. It fit fine. Somehow I don't think the poor truck has much life left and the hub will likely outlive the vehicle at this point.
Here's the old Moog and I robbed the ABS sensor as has become my custom.
Here's the old Moog and I robbed the ABS sensor as has become my custom.
That was me today at -13c plus the wind chill factor on a snowy driveway. The difference is, the starter on the F150 is just over a year old and the truck travelled less than 10k kms in that time.
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Replacing deck boards. Supposed to be an afternoon job. Turned into all weekend. I really hate wood decks after a few years
Spent way too long troubleshooting no right trailer turn on a GMT900. Turns out if you're a complete idiot like me and reading the GAS layout for fuses when the truck is a DIESEL, you're checking the wrong fuses.
In the spirit of The Princess Bride, "Truly, [my] intellect is staggering."
In the spirit of The Princess Bride, "Truly, [my] intellect is staggering."
Interviewed 6 people over the last week, and just hired this last one. Gave her an employment contract to take home and read, and told her if she wants the job to bring it back signed at 8am tomorrow. She was excited, and said she will be here at 7:30 am ready to work.
Then I plowed some snow, ordered a new air compressor, fixed the pull starter rewind in the wife's Ski Doo, also changed her hi fax sliders, and about to change the oil in my ATV.
Then I plowed some snow, ordered a new air compressor, fixed the pull starter rewind in the wife's Ski Doo, also changed her hi fax sliders, and about to change the oil in my ATV.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
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2010 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced front brake rotors and pads, rotated tires, changed oil
2014 Chevrolet Equinox
BG EPR/MOA engine service, replaced air filter
2000 Buick LeSabre
Replaced battery, brought the front rotors home to turn. Will do that then install them and some new pads tomorrow
Replaced front brake rotors and pads, rotated tires, changed oil
2014 Chevrolet Equinox
BG EPR/MOA engine service, replaced air filter
2000 Buick LeSabre
Replaced battery, brought the front rotors home to turn. Will do that then install them and some new pads tomorrow
Haha, I’ve been in a similar position. I had just finished a dash out wiring harness replacement and couldn’t get the car to start, thought I must have wired the immobilizer incorrectly as it wasn’t lighting up when in the on position. Started pulling the dash back out when I realised I had also replaced the fuel pump and never put fuel back in the tank.
Napping......calipers, pads and discs arrived for the old BMW and so did Norovirus
Deep dive into a BW4493 in an '06 H3. To be fair, I've got the case stabbed back in but have not driven this yet.
Symptoms: randomly goes to 4-lock and back. This is notoriously a plastic shift collar but this case was allegedly recently gone through by a DFW area shop (clearly, not @clinebarger)
We opened it and everything looked good, EXCEPT I noted the rear collar which engages the differential could just free float. It turns out this shop -- who literally botched every single thing they touched on this vehicle-- simply put a spring on the shaft for the worm gear rather than the shift rail where it belongs.
This collar can only get shoved back by the worm gear, but it canNOT be pulled forward, so it MUST have the spring to push it forward when the worm gear allows
Seen here, the spring was on the right shaft when it should have been on the left:
Symptoms: randomly goes to 4-lock and back. This is notoriously a plastic shift collar but this case was allegedly recently gone through by a DFW area shop (clearly, not @clinebarger)
We opened it and everything looked good, EXCEPT I noted the rear collar which engages the differential could just free float. It turns out this shop -- who literally botched every single thing they touched on this vehicle-- simply put a spring on the shaft for the worm gear rather than the shift rail where it belongs.
This collar can only get shoved back by the worm gear, but it canNOT be pulled forward, so it MUST have the spring to push it forward when the worm gear allows
Seen here, the spring was on the right shaft when it should have been on the left:
Speaking of botching things, the BW4493 worm gear shaft is supported at the front by an 1/8" dowel pin. Strangest thing I've ever seen. ANYWAY, while trying to mock shift the case with the rear case half removed, I handily snapped that dowel. It's a press fit in the shaft so getting it out was virtually impossible as it broke flush.
I was perfectly willing to order parts or an entire donor case to rectify my stupidity, but the owner and I decided to try for a fix -- why couldn't we go larger than 1/8"?
I drilled into the shaft, although as I feared I had to use a carbide end mill because dowel pins tend to be hardened. Then I reamed it .249" and pressed in a 1/4" dowel:
Seen here new dowel installed and broken remnant on table:
I then used a 1/4" hex shank drill bit in a 1/4" socket on an extension to open up the hole in the case for the 1/4" dowel:
Seems to work (shrug)
I was perfectly willing to order parts or an entire donor case to rectify my stupidity, but the owner and I decided to try for a fix -- why couldn't we go larger than 1/8"?
I drilled into the shaft, although as I feared I had to use a carbide end mill because dowel pins tend to be hardened. Then I reamed it .249" and pressed in a 1/4" dowel:
Seen here new dowel installed and broken remnant on table:
I then used a 1/4" hex shank drill bit in a 1/4" socket on an extension to open up the hole in the case for the 1/4" dowel:
Seems to work (shrug)
Frustrating day with trans cooler lines on '06 H3. I simply could NOT get the lower line to clip in at the trans.
I finally pulled the fitting to see what exactly was happening and the line was bottoming against the inner shoulder BEFORE it could travel enough to allow the clip to seat.
I measured the old lines and at the cooler this distance should be ~1/2" but at the trans they're 3/8" to 10mm. Well, the trans end on this line was 1/2" almost as if they used the wrong flare measurement on this end.
These were GM lines from O'Reilly, not aftermarket.
Anyway, I took my sanding disc on an angle grinder and took it down to the correct length.
In a move that would make a flat rate tech cringe, I dropped the sway bar and front diff. This made it SOOO nice to feed the new lines in without tweaking them, and it's really only seven VERY accessible bolts
Working in the trans tunnel of the GMT360 kinda sucks, there's barely enough room for your forearm but little else. Pulling the lower fitting:
I used this conglomeration and it worked surprisingly well. I was unable to break it with a standard open wrench and needed more leverage
I finally pulled the fitting to see what exactly was happening and the line was bottoming against the inner shoulder BEFORE it could travel enough to allow the clip to seat.
I measured the old lines and at the cooler this distance should be ~1/2" but at the trans they're 3/8" to 10mm. Well, the trans end on this line was 1/2" almost as if they used the wrong flare measurement on this end.
These were GM lines from O'Reilly, not aftermarket.
Anyway, I took my sanding disc on an angle grinder and took it down to the correct length.
In a move that would make a flat rate tech cringe, I dropped the sway bar and front diff. This made it SOOO nice to feed the new lines in without tweaking them, and it's really only seven VERY accessible bolts
Working in the trans tunnel of the GMT360 kinda sucks, there's barely enough room for your forearm but little else. Pulling the lower fitting:
I used this conglomeration and it worked surprisingly well. I was unable to break it with a standard open wrench and needed more leverage