What are you working on today?

2005 Pontiac G6 3.5 V6
Replaced water pump, serpentine belt, belt tensioner and both belt idler pulleys, changed oil
 
2007 Mazda CX9
-changed oil
-replaced blower motor relay for "ghost" blower
-unplugged failing "key sensor" at ignition switch so keyless entry would function and door dinger would stop ANYtime door was open
-replaced key fob battery #1620 which I thought was kinda oddball, but O'Reilly stocked it
-replaced inexplicably mangled and leaking rear diff fill plug with new OEM. @bdcardinal helped me track this down LONG ago and it uses Mazda's super-special 23mm hex head
-replaced leaking plastic radiator drain bolt with a steel oil pan drain plug M12x1.25:
20241210_110229.webp
 
2007 Mazda CX9
-changed oil
-replaced blower motor relay for "ghost" blower
-unplugged failing "key sensor" at ignition switch so keyless entry would function and door dinger would stop ANYtime door was open
-replaced key fob battery #1620 which I thought was kinda oddball, but O'Reilly stocked it
-replaced inexplicably mangled and leaking rear diff fill plug with new OEM. @bdcardinal helped me track this down LONG ago and it uses Mazda's super-special 23mm hex head
-replaced leaking plastic radiator drain bolt with a steel oil pan drain plug M12x1.25:View attachment 253853
Is that the key with the flip out key? The best way to open those is to unflip the key, and take an unfolded paperclip and push on the tab in that valley while pulling it apart. Then you can open it to change the battery.
 
Had to plug a tire on my son's Jeep before work this morning; had a screw dead center in the tread. The plug kit didn't come with any rubber cement, it was extremely hard to get the plug to push thru the hole. I had to remove the wheel to get enough leverage to press the tool hard enough to get the plug to go through the hole. I'm not super happy with the end result. It feels like the insertion tool tried to pull the plug part way back out of the tire. Seems to be holding air but I don't like it. I may redo it tonight.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: D60
Is that the key with the flip out key? The best way to open those is to unflip the key, and take an unfolded paperclip and push on the tab in that valley while pulling it apart. Then you can open it to change the battery.
Thank you! I successfully just pried it apart a couple times. I did watch a YT vid first because it wasn't entirely clear which side was the battery cover. I seem to learn everything from YT U... which is potentially scary.

This seems to have the infamous Mazda 5 minute timer, ie if you unlock the doors with the fob but do NOTHING else (like open a door) it automatically re-locks itself. I get VERY nervous about modern vehicles that like to lock themselves.
 
'08 Tundra, new front and rear u-joints in rear d/s. The mid joint was replaced when we did the carrier bearing. The owner is just certain this will cure a harmonic vibe at 60mph, and I'm certain it won't as the OEM joints I removed felt great at 287k. But this guy "used to build race cars" so he knows EVERYTHING (plus more). Did I mention he used to build race cars??
20241212_181542.webp
 
Thank you! I successfully just pried it apart a couple times. I did watch a YT vid first because it wasn't entirely clear which side was the battery cover. I seem to learn everything from YT U... which is potentially scary.

This seems to have the infamous Mazda 5 minute timer, ie if you unlock the doors with the fob but do NOTHING else (like open a door) it automatically re-locks itself. I get VERY nervous about modern vehicles that like to lock themselves.
So last Saturday I decided to do an oil change on the Chevy truck since it hasn't been done since.....June of 2020, but only about 1500ish miles ago. For some odd reason I went out of order and did the filter first, then went to pull the drain plug. I vaguely remembered it not feeling fantastic so I had a new plug on hand. Every pull of the ratchet handle was tight and the plug came out with the threads destroyed. Then it looked like what was the plug seal was stuck to the pan to I picked at it and out came the heli-coil slinky. I have a new TimeSert set sitting waiting for Sunday to finish the job 😐
 
Buried 50’ of landscape lighting cable. Finished a small end table I’m giving to a friend for Christmas. Looked over a friends Camry (148k miles), topped off the fluids, cleaned the headlights, aired the tires and drove it to check on the brakes I re-bedded 2 months ago, oh and gassed it up. Made a USB charger thing in the garage. It was definitely a day to catch up on a bunch of hanging projects.

USB charger was an old laptop power supply directly connected to this:
https://a.co/d/hJjW3wp
Works nicely. Had 3 devices plugged in and it got warm but not too hot. Most laptop power supplies these days seem to be 19volts. The usb charger accepts 12-24.
 
Not particularly difficult but installed Diode Dynamics LED fogs in a '15 Cherokee. These retail around $330 so should be decent.

Jeep elected to rivet the bottom of the inner fender to the front valance, which I thought was kinda lame. The rivets are easily drilled but I think a more serviceable method would be less lazy
20241214_132050.webp

Stock fog:
20241214_132953.webp

Aftermarket fog:
20241214_132947.webp

Stock:
20241214_133109.webp

Aftermarket LED:
20241214_133101.webp
 
Rockin' the red in the wheelwells. Installed JBA Offroad upper control arms in the 01 Tundra.

Did one side yesterday. These control arms have built-in 3 degrees of caster to help stay centered at freeway driving when lifting or leveling the front suspension.
IMG_0088.webp


Doing the other side today.
IMG_0089.webp


Original vs. new control arms. One advantage of the aftermarket UCA's is the upper ball joint is moved from the steering knuckle to the control arm. A bushing adapter gets pressed into the knuckle in place of the upper ball joint. Plus everything in this arm is rebuildable.
IMG_0090.webp


Original UCA and not that long ago replaced 555 Sankei UBJ removed. Removing the ABS wire, brake caliper/lines/rotor, and tie rod makes swinging the knuckle easy to get a ball joint press on.
IMG_0091.webp


UCA and UBJ in for final torque and reverse everything that came off.
IMG_0093.webp


Impressions: No issues handling a trip to costco. Front end isn't banging around anymore, probably cuz the factory control arms aren't suited for modified front ends.
 
Sunny warm day so outside tasks! Washed two white vehicles, played in the mud with one yesterday. I’m guessing they put ceramic coating on the BMW, I hate washing it. Beads up and leave spots, windows are the worst. Raked and mulched leaves and gave the mower a final wash, need to fluid film but don’t have any. Washed the bike and putting up one window AC.
IMG_4718.webp
 
'08 Tundra, new front and rear u-joints in rear d/s. The mid joint was replaced when we did the carrier bearing. The owner is just certain this will cure a harmonic vibe at 60mph, and I'm certain it won't as the OEM joints I removed felt great at 287k. But this guy "used to build race cars" so he knows EVERYTHING (plus more). Did I mention he used to build race cars?? View attachment 253969
That’s funny. Wonder why he’s not performing the work given he has all that experience?
 
Had car evaluated, I am getting new VTC actuator, timing chain, timing kit parts. Gonna go ahead and have the # 4 service done along with coolant, tensioner replacement, belt, oil, filter. Will take it in Friday morning and by the time it comes back i will have almost entire new everything. Hoping to have some pictures again with valve cover off.
The master technician finally got time to take a picture after they removed the valve cover and it looks like they've adjusted the valves and spark plugs and timing chain or they're getting ready to do it but here is the only picture I've received so far but I thought I would share it with you guys at the mileage of 370,000

IMG_20241216_103225.webp
 
Continuing to toy with my new Launch scan tool
Being an android tablet at heart, it seems to play very nicely with FORScan, AlfaOBD, and Torque Pro
Pairs effortlessly with my wired and Bluetooth OBDLink dongles

Nice to no longer have to multitask on my smaller phone screen

Maybe in the new year I'll dabble in some PCM reflashing with the included J2534 box 🤔
1000002393.webp
 
The master technician finally got time to take a picture after they removed the valve cover and it looks like they've adjusted the valves and spark plugs and timing chain or they're getting ready to do it but here is the only picture I've received so far but I thought I would share it with you guys at the mileage of 370,000

View attachment 254400

IMG_20241216_145227.webp


IMG_20241216_145241.webp


IMG_20241216_145247.webp
 
Back
Top Bottom