What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
R&R front right halfshaft on '14 Rogue Select.
Man, this bearing carrier did not want to release the bearing. I've got the forked slide hammer attachment but that did nothing. I finally went scorched earth and heated the aluminum carrier with the blue wrench, which worked.
I used the Dorman "HD" model to gain the TPE outer boot.
Man, this bearing carrier did not want to release the bearing. I've got the forked slide hammer attachment but that did nothing. I finally went scorched earth and heated the aluminum carrier with the blue wrench, which worked.
I used the Dorman "HD" model to gain the TPE outer boot.
Toyota/Lexus can be just as bad or worse, I usually weld a 5/8" nut inboard of the inner joint & use a 10 pound slide hammer.
Doing a transmission R&R on a 2014 Mazda CX-5 now & the bearing is simply strapped into the support with a sheet metal bracket....Made the axle easy to remove!!
Got medieval on '98 Ram drivers seat. This is a regular cab. Lower cushions are readily available from Dorman for the extra cabs. The seats are VERY different between the cab styles. I mean WAY WAY different from design of legs, design of tracks, and upholstery altogether.
I modified an extra cab seat to fit the regular cab so we can bolt in Dorman cushions. It required MAJOR surgery.
I could only find a decent extra cab seat in tan, but for a beater truck at my non-profit it's great
Regular cab seat before:
Extra cab seat with massive modifications and a new Dorman lower cushion:
I modified an extra cab seat to fit the regular cab so we can bolt in Dorman cushions. It required MAJOR surgery.
I could only find a decent extra cab seat in tan, but for a beater truck at my non-profit it's great
Regular cab seat before:
Extra cab seat with massive modifications and a new Dorman lower cushion:
2006 H3:
-New front brakes. This guy is broke so used a Wagner kit from RA, but the rotors were still partially coated
-replaced 4L60 dipstick tube grommet. O'Reilly actually stocks OEM for ~$5.50. Someone had previously tried to use RTV:
-I could never figure out why every time I added ATF some would almost immediately burn off the exhaust. I figured it was just the grommet, but we found the dipstick bracket had torn a sizeable hole in the tube.
I clamped it back flush and welded all around as best I could. It's ***** because I kept chasing holes as I burned through. I finally dropped down to 15.8V and a wire speed of ~190 and was able to stop blowing through (machine was loaded .035)
-New front brakes. This guy is broke so used a Wagner kit from RA, but the rotors were still partially coated
-replaced 4L60 dipstick tube grommet. O'Reilly actually stocks OEM for ~$5.50. Someone had previously tried to use RTV:
-I could never figure out why every time I added ATF some would almost immediately burn off the exhaust. I figured it was just the grommet, but we found the dipstick bracket had torn a sizeable hole in the tube.
I clamped it back flush and welded all around as best I could. It's ***** because I kept chasing holes as I burned through. I finally dropped down to 15.8V and a wire speed of ~190 and was able to stop blowing through (machine was loaded .035)
Stuffing my face with turkey & pumpkin pie 
Visiting her friends for Thanksgiving… Always get roped into something at least easy this time. Changed the breather hose and rear brake light on a 02 Rav4, hopefully take care of the small evap leak. But got to drive a new Tacoma to Autozone… makes me want to say bye to the old Dakota.
Fixing a broken fridge shelf. Three years old fridge!
Getting things ready for winter. Put the Sta-Bil in the MG, ran the engine for a while, and covered it up. Changed the oil in the Predator 9000 generator, since it was new to me and had oil of unknown age in it. Also put in the magnetic dipstick I bought for it. Took the battery out of the camper and brought it inside.
New battery on the ‘22 F-150 (38.2k miles) today, have been getting the dreaded “shut down remote features to save battery” message for the last month or so. Alternator, starter both tested out good.
Had it replaced last year under warranty at 18.5k miles for the same reason, Ford dealer would not cover a replacement this time around since I was out of the 3yr/36k factory warranty, and wanted >$400 for replacement + install.
Drove down the street to O’Reillys and picked up a “Super Start” Platinum AGM, size H8, 850 CCA. ~$250 out the door, and a bigger battery than factory (came with H6, 760 CCA). Hopefully lasts longer than a year this time around!
Had it replaced last year under warranty at 18.5k miles for the same reason, Ford dealer would not cover a replacement this time around since I was out of the 3yr/36k factory warranty, and wanted >$400 for replacement + install.
Drove down the street to O’Reillys and picked up a “Super Start” Platinum AGM, size H8, 850 CCA. ~$250 out the door, and a bigger battery than factory (came with H6, 760 CCA). Hopefully lasts longer than a year this time around!
Put the winter tires and the cold front cover on the diesel Ram this afternoon.
Greased the front drive shaft cardan joint zerk while it was in the air, and I could spin the wheels to line it up.
Greased the front drive shaft cardan joint zerk while it was in the air, and I could spin the wheels to line it up.
You're a good man, and brave to work on someone else's car.
The other day we got some new tires on the Trailblazer. Off were some garbaged Good Year Wrangler Trailrunners. On were Cooper Discoverer Road and Trail.
Today I finally replaced the long leaking front differential, driver side axle seal. Since I was in there, it got fresh gear oil as well.
Today I finally replaced the long leaking front differential, driver side axle seal. Since I was in there, it got fresh gear oil as well.
Breaking in Detroit Series 4-53T.
Here's the first session for those of you that like Detroits.
Here's the first session for those of you that like Detroits.
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That's what I do for a living
Not my finest work, but I anchored my condenser to the concrete slab I just poured. Screws go through the plastic/fiberglass base and into the metal sides as well
Anchors in the concrete are #12, they are not going anywhere
Anchors in the concrete are #12, they are not going anywhere