Oh trust me, it was a careful dig. Right over the septic drain field. I wanted to yank the whole thing out with my truck, but knew better.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Oh trust me, it was a careful dig. Right over the septic drain field. I wanted to yank the whole thing out with my truck, but knew better.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Last weekend new spindles for one of the mowers.
Replaced a brake valve on a fire truck, finished a pond clean out and moved the track loader to the west end of the farm to cut a swale for drainage and start cutting grade for a quonset building I’m going to build.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Son and I did the CP3 pump and installed a lift pump on his truck. It may have been too much for the old injectors, so we are replacing them this weekend. 2003 LB7 Duramax 265,000 miles check out under the valve covers. It was time for the injectors. The fasteners that hold the injector return line down were stripped and you could see the vice grips marks on them. We got them all out with a little time and patience. A set of 8 is like 50 dollars. Why wouldn't the last guy just change them out? What a hack. It will be right when we are done. The design IMO is stupid and really takes a bit to get them changed out. They updated it on later Duramaxs.
Wrapping up the OCIs before cold weather sets in
Neighbors kids 2020 Elantra was not a stress
The other kids 2010 Civic threw me for a loop
A few months back, he hit something on the BQE and damaged Honda's infamously unsturdy cast aluminum oil pans
He limped it into a shop, ~$800 later it had a new oil pan and an oil change
Fast forward to now, the maintenance minder says it's time, and it makes the great trek ~50 feet across the street to me
I knew something was up when I had to hand thread the oil filter all the way off
The "oil filter holder" as Honda calls it came out with the old filter
It wouldn't thread back in
Eventually I broke it free from the (too short IMO) 14612 filter
And the problem revealed itself
They reused this holder from the old pan, damaging it in the process
Looks like they used vice grips and an easy out
It won't thread in, it's 5pm Saturday, I've got no M20x1.5 nuts/taps/dies available locally
Luckily Amazon had an off brand filter holder that would arrive next day
Even more luckily, it threaded in and bottomed out with ease
A few drops of blue loctite on the oil pan side, I ran it down as best as I could without using the double nut method in the FSM
And the rest of the OCI was completed
It got Total 5w30 and a Bosch 3323 spun on
It continues to infuriate me how often I have to clean up after the "professional" shops that got a decent profit out of a job
They took this poor kid for $800, with a doomed to fail next oil change
I told them never use that shop again
Next time they should consult me before spending that kind of money at a shop
I'm considering preparing for the next OCI, I'll get an OE Honda Holder, and some thin M20 hardware so I can torque it in as per the FSM
Or if this holds, I may just leave it alone
Neighbors kids 2020 Elantra was not a stress
The other kids 2010 Civic threw me for a loop
A few months back, he hit something on the BQE and damaged Honda's infamously unsturdy cast aluminum oil pans
He limped it into a shop, ~$800 later it had a new oil pan and an oil change
Fast forward to now, the maintenance minder says it's time, and it makes the great trek ~50 feet across the street to me
I knew something was up when I had to hand thread the oil filter all the way off
The "oil filter holder" as Honda calls it came out with the old filter
It wouldn't thread back in
Eventually I broke it free from the (too short IMO) 14612 filter
And the problem revealed itself
They reused this holder from the old pan, damaging it in the process
Looks like they used vice grips and an easy out
It won't thread in, it's 5pm Saturday, I've got no M20x1.5 nuts/taps/dies available locally
Luckily Amazon had an off brand filter holder that would arrive next day
Even more luckily, it threaded in and bottomed out with ease
A few drops of blue loctite on the oil pan side, I ran it down as best as I could without using the double nut method in the FSM
And the rest of the OCI was completed
It got Total 5w30 and a Bosch 3323 spun on
It continues to infuriate me how often I have to clean up after the "professional" shops that got a decent profit out of a job
They took this poor kid for $800, with a doomed to fail next oil change
I told them never use that shop again
Next time they should consult me before spending that kind of money at a shop
I'm considering preparing for the next OCI, I'll get an OE Honda Holder, and some thin M20 hardware so I can torque it in as per the FSM
Or if this holds, I may just leave it alone
Bless you for making things right. I want to see that filter cut open.Wrapping up the OCIs before cold weather sets in
Neighbors kids 2020 Elantra was not a stress
The other kids 2010 Civic threw me for a loop
A few months back, he hit something on the BQE and damaged Honda's infamously unsturdy cast aluminum oil pans
He limped it into a shop, ~$800 later it had a new oil pan and an oil change
Fast forward to now, the maintenance minder says it's time, and it makes the great trek ~50 feet across the street to me
I knew something was up when I had to hand thread the oil filter all the way off
View attachment 247365
The "oil filter holder" as Honda calls it came out with the old filter
It wouldn't thread back in
Eventually I broke it free from the (too short IMO) 14612 filter
View attachment 247366
And the problem revealed itself
They reused this holder from the old pan, damaging it in the process
Looks like they used vice grips and an easy out
View attachment 247367
View attachment 247368
It won't thread in, it's 5pm Saturday, I've got no M20x1.5 nuts/taps/dies available locally
Luckily Amazon had an off brand filter holder that would arrive next day
Even more luckily, it threaded in and bottomed out with ease
View attachment 247369
A few drops of blue loctite on the oil pan side, I ran it down as best as I could without using the double nut method in the FSM
View attachment 247370
And the rest of the OCI was completed
It got Total 5w30 and a Bosch 3323 spun on
It continues to infuriate me how often I have to clean up after the "professional" shops that got a decent profit out of a job
They took this poor kid for $800, with a doomed to fail next oil change
I told them never use that shop again
Next time they should consult me before spending that kind of money at a shop
I'm considering preparing for the next OCI, I'll get an OE Honda Holder, and some thin M20 hardware so I can torque it in as per the FSM
Or if this holds, I may just leave it alone
Heck yes I’m cutting many as I can find.You're doing them again?
PM me your shipping info, I'll get some out to you
I’ll shoot you a pm.
Replaced the Trans mount on my Mustang, giant pain in the rear end. Ended up using a cutting wheel on an exhaust hanger just to get the old one off.
If I knew you needed a couple..... 
Took the blade off my bypass loppers to take to the knife shop near my work for sharpening/repair; I must have cut into something very hard and slightly damaged the edge. They only charge $10 and it gives me an excuse to go to the knife store. I like knife stores. A lot.
Shepherd Hills in Lebanon, MO. is a great Case knives store. And Smokey Mountain Knife Works is excellent too. Good knife stores are a great place to spend an hour or three... deciding which parts to spend a few hours in. 
Busy day today. 2021 pierce aerial 21,000 miles. X12 Cummins/volvo chassis with Hendrickson rear suspension. Full PM service, replaced king pins/bushings, front wheel seals, cleaned bearings, replaced front brake pads, R/R both walking beams for bushing service. Absolutely nothing left of the pivot bushings. Road tested and all is well. Sorry no photos, had my hands busy and dirty all day.
Last knife I bought came from SMKW. Just a Boker Linerlock, nothing fancy but I could spend a fortune in there.Shepherd Hills in Lebanon, MO. is a great Case knives store. And Smokey Mountain Knife Works is excellent too. Good knife stores are a great place to spend an hour or three... deciding which parts to spend a few hours in.
GM rarely used Allen Headed fasteners up to that point....I remember the first Duramax's being a dealer tech & all of us were buying metric Allen sockets at the same time which led to a shortage of sets on the tool trucks.
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
It has certainly been a learning experience for the boy and I. Not super hard, but we are trying to do it right. New return lines, new fuel rail to injector lines all new fasteners, injector cups. You get the idea.
How do you feel about red Loctite on the injector cups? I see a lot people put it on there. We start the reinstall tomorrow. It was slow going due to having remove some stripped out valve cover and injector return line fasteners. I am fairly certain his diesel in the oil was from leaky injector return lines as it ran fine with no smoke, but he has getting diesel in the oil the after the new CP3 install. Correct pressure and it was blowing by the seals on those lines. That deep in we decided to do the injectors. Thing ran really nice before can't wait see how it runs now. I am really starting to be less afraid of the Duramax after the stuff we have done to this truck.
Why couldn't they just put a big hex/Allen in the end like everyone else does
How to they expect you to fit a ~30mm in that tight space with the pan in situ
The only compliment I can give it is the oil filter location on the R18 engine is a much easier change than earlier B/D series back up on the block facing the firewall