What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I'm working on a Dell laptop I gave my mom. A local friend here in Montana installed Fedora on it with maximum paranoia settings. Two BIOS passwords, a hard drive encryption password, plus two more passwords to enter once Fedora boots. My mom is so frustrated with it and I can totally understand why.
I’m putting a new water pump, fan clutch, serpentine belt and belt tensioner in a 1997 John Deere 6300. It’s also getting a new return fuel line and the injector tee seals replaced. I also bought a valve cover gasket for it. I’m gonna change the hydraulic fluid and filters while it’s in the shop. The fan clutch has been intermittently having problems for a while. This tractor blew a coolant hose that feeds the oil cooler a few days ago. I decided to go ahead and do the fan clutch and water pump while it’s in the shop. The water pump I removed was original @ more than 5,000 engine hours, I popped the factory paint when I removed it. The radiator has to come out (remove hood and take it out the top) to get the fan clutch out, so I couldn’t justify not doing the water pump while I’m this far into it. OEM parts were just over $1,300, not including the hydraulic/transmission filters and hydraulic fluid that I already have.
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- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,210
The 57 Cadillac is on hold until we get a radiator
2011 Ford Explorer with a 3.5 V6 hosed the oil out of the air intake and throttle body, was setting throttle position and MAF sensor codes, test drove confirmed that fixed it, changed oil and replaced air filter
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3 boss had me replace throttle body and accelerator pedal assembly for a driveability issue, which didn't fix it. Pretty certain there's a loose or broken ground or a broken wire in the throttle control circuit as the accelerator pedal position code seems to be caused either by sudden turns or chassis vibrations....I'll piddle more with it tomorrow
2011 Ford Explorer with a 3.5 V6 hosed the oil out of the air intake and throttle body, was setting throttle position and MAF sensor codes, test drove confirmed that fixed it, changed oil and replaced air filter
2011 Chevrolet Silverado 5.3 boss had me replace throttle body and accelerator pedal assembly for a driveability issue, which didn't fix it. Pretty certain there's a loose or broken ground or a broken wire in the throttle control circuit as the accelerator pedal position code seems to be caused either by sudden turns or chassis vibrations....I'll piddle more with it tomorrow
2018 Ram 2500 Power Wagon, 6.4L/66RFE, Setting P0871 (Overdrive pressure switch rationality)
Removed the valve body to ID the Solenoid Switch Valve diameter, Will ream the bore for a oversized TransGo valve & install a new Mopar Solenoid/Valve pack.
Will get both filters changed along with fresh Valvoline ATF+4 & a thorough shift adapt relearn.
Removed the valve body to ID the Solenoid Switch Valve diameter, Will ream the bore for a oversized TransGo valve & install a new Mopar Solenoid/Valve pack.
Will get both filters changed along with fresh Valvoline ATF+4 & a thorough shift adapt relearn.
I run new APPS circuits on GMT900's quite often....It's not worth digging into the harness! Sometimes the break is easy to find & near the ECM doing a pull/stress test on the APPS circuits.....
1992 Mercedes 300D 2.5 turbo, 158,xxx miles
Lubricating the LR, LF and RF window regulators, cables and pulleys. The RR pulley broke and was replaced.
I’m using Super Lube Grease. The FR assembly was bone dry so I applied the grease liberally.
While the door card and moisture barrier is off I’m applying 2mm structural butyl rubber and 4mm acoustic closed cell foam sound deadening.
Plus multi applications of CRC HD Marine wax to the door seams.
We absolutely love this car. It’s the finest car we have owned yet. I intend to pamper it forever.
Lubricating the LR, LF and RF window regulators, cables and pulleys. The RR pulley broke and was replaced.
I’m using Super Lube Grease. The FR assembly was bone dry so I applied the grease liberally.
While the door card and moisture barrier is off I’m applying 2mm structural butyl rubber and 4mm acoustic closed cell foam sound deadening.
Plus multi applications of CRC HD Marine wax to the door seams.
We absolutely love this car. It’s the finest car we have owned yet. I intend to pamper it forever.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Buddy had that truck - planned to tow in the mountains …2018 Ram 2500 Power Wagon, 6.4L/66RFE, Setting P0871 (Overdrive pressure switch rationality)
Removed the valve body to ID the Solenoid Switch Valve diameter, Will ream the bore for a oversized TransGo valve & install a new Mopar Solenoid/Valve pack.
Will get both filters changed along with fresh Valvoline ATF+4 & a thorough shift adapt relearn.
Year later he had another DMax …
Having my 2022 work F150 flat decked to the shop, well under 100,000km. Was parked in a gravel lot, pulled ahead 20 feet and parked again. Dashboard lit up and when I drove again the brakes were laggy and it appeared the electric e brake was my service brakes.
Get back to the office and notice a puddle under the spare tire. Blew the brake lines.
I said it before and I will say it again, I hate Ford. Well at least the timing chain rattle isn't too bad in this one.
Get back to the office and notice a puddle under the spare tire. Blew the brake lines.
I said it before and I will say it again, I hate Ford. Well at least the timing chain rattle isn't too bad in this one.
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I'll say it again -- it would appear they transitioned Team TFI to brake hose development
By now those engineers wander around with a blank stare and say things like "You're a lyin' dog faced pony soldier!!"Brake line leaking.
Love it! DOT approved!
I know this isn't news to seasoned techs, but humor me as I kill time and allow my shaking body to recover from plugs #1 thru #4 on an '06 Expy 5.4.
That #4 sure sucks. By some miracle I got my M12 right angle impact back there -- a ratchet just wasn't cutting it and I subscribe to the rip‐'em-out-while-the-motor-is-hot approach:
A view across the topside creeper. Note the impact barely visible below the cowl:
The vehicle has 152k and the owner said they were replaced around 80k. This tracks since the plugs that came out were Autolite and not MC. Given the mileage I was surprised how much the electrodes appear to have eroded.
I didn't work feelers in there but I think the difference in gap from old to new is obvious to the naked eye:
All replacement Motorcraft parts were ordered from RA so hopefully legit
That #4 sure sucks. By some miracle I got my M12 right angle impact back there -- a ratchet just wasn't cutting it and I subscribe to the rip‐'em-out-while-the-motor-is-hot approach:
A view across the topside creeper. Note the impact barely visible below the cowl:
The vehicle has 152k and the owner said they were replaced around 80k. This tracks since the plugs that came out were Autolite and not MC. Given the mileage I was surprised how much the electrodes appear to have eroded.
I didn't work feelers in there but I think the difference in gap from old to new is obvious to the naked eye:
All replacement Motorcraft parts were ordered from RA so hopefully legit
74,000km. Built ford tough.
We got a clean 1999 F250 2v 5.4 Superduty at the farm. Not a bad truck but I'll give give them credit, it consumes copious amounts of time and fuel without creating much power.
Last time I fooled with plugs was probably 40 years ago. They didn't look like that at all. I'm glad my local shops knows all that needs to be known.
That truck will go forever but it won't go anywhere quickly!
Honestly the 5.4 should have never found its way into anything more than a 1/2t. During the same era GM was smart and wouldn't put their 5.3 in 3/4t+
I must remind those who are getting offended I'm a Ford guy but Team Reality calls out stupid where ever it is, regardless of brand loyalty
Interesting that they took the time to develop the code to use the e-brake (that seems like a 3rd level of care, excellent!), unless they specifically didn’t have a true redundant hydraulic system for the regular brakes. ??? V curious.
I truly wonder about using the e brake for redundancy. That's exactly what it felt like. If it was engineered that way, then kudos to Ford. But if it was, I have a sneaking suspicion that the engineer responsible has since been fired or was a patsy for Boeing.
I do like the 99 to 2016 Superduty's. I think they are a simple yet reliable truck. The 3v at least had a bit more get up, felt equivalent to the 6 litre 4L80 Gm trucks on power.
In late 2016 I was looking at the F250 and 350 6.7 trucks but even with the new body style trickling out, they priced me into a Ram.
A good friend has a relatively new F350 6.7 10 speed. Drives nice, smooth and lots of power. But it is only marginally better towing heavy than his deleted 2011 Ram 2500, 3.73 gears and 1 ton springs. Now this is with a very heavy toy hauler through the rockies. As well the old Ram has a better exhaust brake.
I do like the 99 to 2016 Superduty's. I think they are a simple yet reliable truck. The 3v at least had a bit more get up, felt equivalent to the 6 litre 4L80 Gm trucks on power.
In late 2016 I was looking at the F250 and 350 6.7 trucks but even with the new body style trickling out, they priced me into a Ram.
A good friend has a relatively new F350 6.7 10 speed. Drives nice, smooth and lots of power. But it is only marginally better towing heavy than his deleted 2011 Ram 2500, 3.73 gears and 1 ton springs. Now this is with a very heavy toy hauler through the rockies. As well the old Ram has a better exhaust brake.