What are you working on today?

Hey let us know how this works out after you’ve had a few days to drive it?
So I've put about 25 miles on it since I finished earlier this morning. Holy cow, it's a night and day difference. It's only a touch more quiet if you were measuring decibel differences, my untrained ear would say at most it's a 2-3 decibel difference. However, the characteristics of the noise is much different. It no longer seems to "echo". The sound deadening, well, deadens the noise and almost muffles it. I mean, she's no Bentley, but it's so much better than stock Elantra econobox form. I haven't even pulled up the carpet and put material down there yet, either. If you have a couple of hours, some basic tools, and $70ish bucks for the sound deadening material, I highly recommend this project.

Edit: Sound Deadening Material

There's the link to the material I bought. I only needed one 10sqft box for the doors, but you'd need two boxes if you're going to do all 4 doors and trunk. It's only $28/box currently though, so it's really not bad. There's better material out there, definitely, but I wasn't trying to go for silence, just something more bearable.
 
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The Ranger came back over the weekend - CEL, runs mostly fine. P0102, MAF voltage low. Before I fired off the parts cannon, I cleared codes and looked at live data. MAF wasn’t returning a value consistent with engine speed. Probed the MAF connection, input voltage was good. Output was at .11V. I had to install a Chinesium MAF, opted for an O’Reilly one. That warranty will come in handy. Now, there’s an HVAC problem. AC intermittently blows hot. The charge was a little low, it was at 20/175, added some virgin R-134a and a quick shot of dye. Got it to 32/240psi. It blew nice and cold - and then hot. I suspect vacuum or other issues.
 
Picked up two hoods and a trunk lid for my cars that were damaged in a hailstorm last month.

Well, one is actually for a Subaru that has a curved hood from a deer incident that keeps it from closing properly. I found one for cheap in the same paint color and grabbed it.

I already have a replacement hood for my Charger - the original. I replaced it years ago with a new hood that was painted professionally as the original was losing the clear coat and paint. With my replacement damaged, I lucked out with keeping the original because now I can have this finished and put back on for less. And my original is aluminum vs. the steel one I installed.

I also grabbed a replacement trunk lid for the Charger as my original is cratered with hail dents. I’ll have this replacement done as well since it’s a wild Plum Crazy Purple color with a factory spoiler. I’m sure someone will want that spoiler so I’ll get back some cash.

I got my replacement hood for my Jeep as it was dinged up as well. Found a color matched hood off of a Gladiator that will work.

Picked up a pair of seat belts for the Subaru to finish off the parts haul. My spend is far less than I would have had to lay out if I handed it over to a body shop. 🙂
 
Yesterday
Back at my friend's shop through Wednesday
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD, 6.6 Duramax
R&I left front inner fender, Replaced one of the hydro boost hoses, the one that runs from the steering box to the booster, changed engine oil

2009 Ford Ranger 4.0 V6
Changed engine oil, rotated tires

2001 Dodge Ram 1500
Replaced power steering pressure hose
 
Big rain today due to the hurricane remnants going over us. 24 hrs of rain and around 4" predicted. We need the rain so the first two inches will get sucked up pretty much. So inside stuff and probably be walking around in the rain seeing how my runoff projects are doing if we get any. Usually three inches and it's starts running down the swales in the yard.
 
Replaced the starter in my John Deere 318 garden tractor with a good used spare that I had on the shelf. Think the brushes on the old one were worn out :D

Then pulled the heads to check the cylinders. I've had the machine for the past 4 years and ~100 hours, first time I've pulled the heads. Looks like I have some scoring on one cylinder but it isn't causing problems at the moment. Low to no oil consumption and runs strong. Next up will be a Briggs repower when it's needed.

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Installing 4.10s and rear TAD in '13 Express. The Auburn manual says any "axle button" (the very end of c-clip axles) won't fit if greater than 1.150". It then goes on to literally say just grind the axle down.

Through a comedy of errors the axles wouldn't work with the pass through spindles of either of my lathes, so I knocked out the wheel studs and turned 'em on a live center. Only needed to take a little over .010" on a side.
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Today was pretty busy. Done 4 brake jobs. All replace pads and machine rotors. Fixed another techs screw up. Car towed in with 4 loose wheels. They made it 55 miles before it started shaking and rumbling so bad that they realized they needed to stop. Pulled off an exit and called in saying that something was wrong. I walked out to the parking lot when it arrived and I was like uh I can tell you what’s wrong with it is these wheels are loose. Tech who done it is on two week suspension from blowing up 7 cars and doing brakes last week when he wasn’t supposed too as he is an express tech aka lube tech. We towed out a rental to the customer who continued on back to their house in West Virginia. Customer was on the wrong way concurrency of I-81 South and I-77 North where they overlap each other sitting on exit 72.
 
I was curious to see how the ultrasonic sensors were attached to the bumper; the rear being the easiest to gain a visual.

While under there, I noticed this.



The Highlander has an odd suspension knock; front/back/left/right. Didn't show itself during the test drive but appeared during periods of rain and when I'd run the vehicle thru the car wash with an undercarriage rinse. Once dry, the noise would disappear. The past few months, it would do it all the time, then just disappear and randomly reappear.

Because of the heat, I just cranked the tire up; I'll have to drive it a while to see if the noises are gone. I figured the cause was something stupid like this.

I wasn't to concerned other than annoyed. I was going to have the dealership take a look when I bring it in for the bumper recall.

So much for Toyota Certified Pre-Owned, 160-Point Inspection.

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Chasing a a new but now reoccurring P2281 on my 2017 Ram 3500 6.7.

Fixed the P0111 with block off plates on the intake horn. Drove great for 800km+. Then derate and this new code. Cleared it, cleaned what looked like an already clean MAF and MAP sensors. All boost tubes and intake ducting were in place and secure. Air filter not plugged and ducting from fenderwell to airbox appeared intact.

Test drive and it ran as normal. Picked up 120 square bales and she ran like a top. Then had maybe 6000 pounds hooked up and light deceleration down a hill to maintain the 80km speed limit and back comes the derate and P2281.

Clear it and run the snot out of the truck and it runs great. Then at highway speed I dump gears and aggressively exhaust brake and the code is back.

Clear code, swapped out the IAT and MAP and unplugged the throttle valve even though it's supposed to be shut off. Watched the MAF readout, which idles around 145g/s and responds well and linear to throttle inputs. Another test run and no issues. So not sure what is causing flow restrictions on deceleration with the exhaust brake.
 
Installing 4.10s and rear TAD in '13 Express. The Auburn manual says any "axle button" (the very end of c-clip axles) won't fit if greater than 1.150". It then goes on to literally say just grind the axle down.

Through a comedy of errors the axles wouldn't work with the pass through spindles of either of my lathes, so I knocked out the wheel studs and turned 'em on a live center. Only needed to take a little over .010" on a side.View attachment 229392
Neat live center, I don't have one that necks down like that. Though my lathe does have a fairly large pass through.
 
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Chasing a a new but now reoccurring P2281 on my 2017 Ram 3500 6.7.

Fixed the P0111 with block off plates on the intake horn. Drove great for 800km+. Then derate and this new code. Cleared it, cleaned what looked like an already clean MAF and MAP sensors. All boost tubes and intake ducting were in place and secure. Air filter not plugged and ducting from fenderwell to airbox appeared intact.

Test drive and it ran as normal. Picked up 120 square bales and she ran like a top. Then had maybe 6000 pounds hooked up and light deceleration down a hill to maintain the 80km speed limit and back comes the derate and P2281.

Clear it and run the snot out of the truck and it runs great. Then at highway speed I dump gears and aggressively exhaust brake and the code is back.

Clear code, swapped out the IAT and MAP and unplugged the throttle valve even though it's supposed to be shut off. Watched the MAF readout, which idles around 145g/s and responds well and linear to throttle inputs. Another test run and no issues. So not sure what is causing flow restrictions on deceleration with the exhaust brake.

I always unplug the throttle valve after tuning.
 
Today was pretty busy. Done 4 brake jobs. All replace pads and machine rotors. Fixed another techs screw up. Car towed in with 4 loose wheels. They made it 55 miles before it started shaking and rumbling so bad that they realized they needed to stop. Pulled off an exit and called in saying that something was wrong. I walked out to the parking lot when it arrived and I was like uh I can tell you what’s wrong with it is these wheels are loose. Tech who done it is on two week suspension from blowing up 7 cars and doing brakes last week when he wasn’t supposed too as he is an express tech aka lube tech. We towed out a rental to the customer who continued on back to their house in West Virginia. Customer was on the wrong way concurrency of I-81 South and I-77 North where they overlap each other sitting on exit 72.
It must be hard to find employees if that only rates a suspension. I’m a DIYer but it sounds like I would do a better job. Hire me!! 🤪🤪
 
Neat live center, I don't have one that necks down like that. Though my lathe does have a fairly large pass through.
This one's 2-9/16" but I never anticipated needing to shove an axle flange through the wall. I should have, though ‐‐ my design flaw!!
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@clinebarger, I had read that quite a few people unplug them after, mind you, most completely remove all the plumbing and hardware. I think in my attempt to avoid issues, I created some.

A friend has a 2011 6.7 with he same tuning and dis the full egr and throttle valve removal and has had zero issues for the better part of a decade and several hundred thousand km.
 
Got a fuel pump replaced. Had to try out a M18 Fuel from Home Depot to get that naughty sonnuva thing off but yes it did. The Milwaukee also destroyed the socket the Chinese clone tool had after not much impact. It's sacrifice was not in vain.
Well, it wasn't on my want list before, but I'll be making sure to get an M18 Fuel for sure. Maybe I'll keep this or I'll return and wait for a deal.
 
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It must be hard to find employees if that only rates a suspension. I’m a DIYer but it sounds like I would do a better job. Hire me!! 🤪🤪

Most every shop is shorthanded, Hiring Mechanics is like playing the lottery, I ask every potential hire their weaknesses in the automotive field....Over half say none!

Then you got the fast starters that can impress in the beginning then flake out.
 
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