What are you working on today?

[D60]

New battery hold down in '98 Ram. You can grab new kits on Amazon cheap that allegedly have stainless bolts and clip nuts (although they're lightly magnetic so I'm skeptical)

New pieces bottom:

Corrosion necks down the bolts

You have to remove the entire tray just to slide on this clip nut. It's not difficult but if other fasteners are corroded it can suck

 

[Snagglefoot]

And here is the finished product. The fender flares are from Tyger Auto.

 

[wander2039]

Thermostat and trans fluid changed. You don’t want to leave the line off after you’re done.. quite a mess. I’m guessing they overfill it from the factory, did about the same.

 

[D60]

More basic stuff. '96 Nissan Hardbody with P0100 - MAF circuit. I was able to considerably affect the MAF reading by just pushing or pulling on the sensor body, leading me to conclude there was likely internal failure.

Apparently these fail fairly often and I was surprised at the number of fakes on ebay that were bold enough to say OEM but show a picture of a blank sensor that didn't even have the Nissan logo. Others would show Nissan but reviews or fb would indicate people received aftermarket.

I finally settled on a seller who seemed promising at $90, and I think I got the real thing. Truck runs great now.

Also the battery tray was rusting away and the battery was floating around because there was no solid place for a front J-hook. I took some 1" angle and riveted into (rusty) metal. I'm hoping the rivets will spread the load enough. J-hook anchors into new angle

While test driving it started to rain at 55mph and the driver wiper decided to do this. Nothing like driving someone else's gutless wonder and you can't see where you're going. Good times.

 

[D60]

And here is the finished product. The fender flares are from Tyger Auto.

View attachment 216598

View attachment 216599

I put some Warehouse Deals flares on my F150 by Tyger. I only tried them because they were so cheap. The fit seemed great and they've been problem-free for years now.

 

[jeepman3071]

Last night started the "refresh" on a Honda GXV390 13hp engine for a friend's DR walkbehind brush mower. New piston rings, valves lapped in, new valve seals, all gaskets and seals. The bearings inside all looked good, and the OEM piston and rod looked good. This engine ran fine but smoked, the rings were worn and the valve seals were hard as a rock.

 

[wings&wheels]

Haven't had a coolant hose fail since the early 80's and it was also a TR6. I'd say we all may forget a bit how just much better cars have become.

Hose is ~15 years old. I do 3 yr coolant intervals on the green coolant oldies and check the hoses regularly and had noticed this one swelling but the original style hoses were a bit difficult to get so I monitored and left them on. Finally gave out on the second drive of the year.

Downside of using accurate reproduction external canvas reinforced hoses is they fail like authentic external canvas reinforced hoses. First world problems.

 

[D60]

My neighbor dropped his GMT400 again while out of town.

Even after replacing all the door hinge hardware I wasn't thrilled with this initial drag when opening the door. It also is what fatigues these outer handles and causes them to break.

I finally had a chance to use my door alignment tool I grabbed years ago for a song on Warehouse Deals. It helped. Overall the door is better and as good as it's gonna get now. I'm ~85% satisfied and most people would think the door opens very well for an old truck

 

[Kennedy01]

I've been lurking but not posting the last few days. Nothing much to report.

Last Wednesday I helped a neighbor pick up a new refrigerator.

Last Friday I replaced the starter on a 2003 Kia Sedona.

Yesterday I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils on a 2015 Hyundai Sonata and changed the oil.

I'm not needed back at work until next week so I don't know that I'll be doing much of anything until then.

 

[1 SX]

Decided to change the oil on the forte, and what a good time to pull out the video scope and take a visual at the oil pan, oil pick up tube, bottom end....

I am not gonna lie, with the near 200K miles on this original 2.4L MPI eng, I expected to see "something"... and well I did. The stamping on the metal and what appeared a "mirror" like finish on all the bottom end parts, even the pick up screen is spotless...

IMHO, this is proof that 4K or so avg oil changes are beneficial vs the 7500-10K the OEM would tell you to go with 0W20.

The oil grades I have tried over the years are: 0W20, 0W20 HM, 5W20, 5W20 HM, 5W30 HM, Euro 5W30, Euro 0W30.

The 2.4L MPI timing chain system LIKES the Euro grade oils when around 37F and above. During the winter I switch to a 0W20 for the flow properties.

Also to note, I don't believe the oil brand plays a huge part in the engine "cleanliness", (unless non spec oil is used, short trips, and way extended intervals.)

I would also have to conclude the larger part in play would be the frequency of the oil changes, keeping the oil full, getting in the engine up to operating temperature and exercising the RPMs within the full range... YES... Even Redline.

 

[ripcord]

Clean as your Mama's kitchen counter!

 

[dumkid]

Definitely as clean as atkovi's counter

 

[burbguy82]

Water pump .. at 103k. Guess it’s Chevy quality.
View attachment 213677

and 20 years on an RV=x2 the mileage

 

[burbguy82]

Oil pressure sensor on my 99 7.4 Suburban.

On the way to Atlanta recently, I smelled a burning smell, like oil.........drove back home, 5 hrs, got to garage, and smoke was billowing out in garage. Of course my daughter noticed it before I did, and asked is that normal?

Anyway, thought I had the right socket, nope...........to Napa I went......and then success. Sensor had split near the bung.

No pictures, cant see the thing anyway, have to do blind.

If yall drink, which I do not, drink one for me. What a PITA.

 

[Oldwolf]

Rebuilding the bed frame that I sleep on in my van.

 

[D60]

I pulled a rear wheel on an SJ Forester I've never touched before and had to chuckle ‐‐ check out the top lug stud.

Cross-threading lug studs: it's what makes a Subaru a Subaru

 

[Kennedy01]

I took some waste oil to the local O'Reilly's for disposal. Got all my exercising done early since I didn't have anything else to do. Not much else.

I have a 98 Buick coming tomorrow for an oil change and maybe a few other things. Thursday I've got a 98 Chevrolet K2500 coming that likely needs a radiator.

 

[wander2039]

Checked the brakes on the back of the RV. Plenty of meat left. Think the rotors are warped though. Being a dually have to pull the axle etc etc. Might just farm that out. Don’t have a flat driveway.

Had a few minutes so was going to clean the Sparks back brakes. Blew some dirt in with the power washer week ago. Well it’s held on with screws so that’s a no go for now. Went to put the tire back on and the jack sunk down. I thought I fixed that HF jack but guess not. Reached around to jack it back up and my hand was still on the tire in the wheel well. You guessed it car slipped off.. you don’t want to see what’s under the bandage. Could have been worse I guess.. no I have matching screwed up thumbs. A car fell on the other one too. Buying a new jack but not sure from where all are cheap junk it seems.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Today at work. Couple diagnose and replace water pumps always a common occurrence on Toyotas. And patched a wire on an oil sensor on a fairly new Toyota an animal of some sort chewed it up, just spliced together so the customer could roll without the oil light on. Also done a fan, fan clutch and radiator and new motor mounts on an older RAV4 which someone rear ended someone in so that’s why it needed those things.

The new tech they hired won’t leave me the heck alone. He can’t even change a cabin filter. I went to my manager and I’m like can we get this guy a person to work with he is like well according to his resume he has all kinds of experience. I said well just because he looks good on paper doesn’t mean anything. I was replacing a fan on a vehicle that had been wrecked in the front end and he come over when I stepped away and tried to be Mr mechanic I came back to him with my tools in his hand saying man a fan should never be tight it’s supposed to be loose so it can spin. I was like if it was loose it would fly off. I took issue with that (him having my tools and trying to do my work while I stepped away) and I requested to my manager he be moved to a different bay that’s not next to me. He agreed and moved him next to our 80 year old mechanic. He said he was moving him to the quick lane tomorrow because he isn’t what he says he is. This guy is 29 and asked me if the word “much” had a K in it. I just walked away it’s not worth the stress. And he has been asking me for my phone number since Thursday last week when he started which I won’t give him. I can tell already I need a beer this weekend lol.

 

[redhat]

Added the hard lines, man did they fit like trash. I wouldn’t expect John Deere to change these tractors between the 2022 and 2023 model year that much where these don’t fit as you can still get floor mounted hydraulics or the hard lines to a single point connector. They fit so bad they made the single point hard to connect.

Allegedly, they now have revised hard line part numbers. Perhaps these correct fitment.

So I thought, I need to engineer something that corrects my original issue of the deck hitting the hydraulic fitting loose, make the single point connect correctly and decent fitment. Settled upon having 4 new custom hydraulic hoses made to run from the SCV to the single point.

Alas, all is well. They fit great (need to get a couple
More hose clamps to finish final routing), don’t tweak the single point… it hooks up easy as before, and once routed as intended, the deck will never hit them. Plus they look good.

Some nice Aeroquip hose.