What are you working on today?

The plan today was changing the struts and spark plugs in my parents CRV and Spark. The Spark is a terribly designed vehicle. Didn’t have the tool to loosen the top nut so that got scratched till another time. Even the spark plugs thought I’d need to take the intake off. CRV went pretty good except having to cut off the links, first side took two hours second side like 20 minutes 😂 The CRV seems pretty well designed and I didn’t see any rust, it’s a 2011. Little over 100k but it’s driven on a country road. Borrowed my BIL’s lift gotta say that was nice.
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Did a thermostat replacement and coolant fill on my brother’s wife’s Town and Country.

I ran it up to temp using my coolant funnel from NAPA, and I kept noticing the wisps of steam from the tailpipe. 🤨

Checked temps on the dashboard and via my scan tool. At idle, in 38*F outside temperatures, it would run all the way up to 230*F. I checked owner forums for these vans and that’s within spec. But that temperature was seen by members only when outside temps were above 100*F.

It only cooled down when running up the engine speed to 2000 rpm - then the engine temp came down to 197*F but would climb back up rapidly if let back down to idle. 🤔. Radiator is not blocked up by mud, and the fans kick on when it’s running hot.

With the steam, and high engine coolant temperatures, I’m ready to condemn a head gasket. I informed my brother and wife and I’m inclined to pull it, and swap in a used engine that I’ve gone over beforehand (new gaskets, oil pump, water pump, etc.) before swapping it into the van. 😎
 
RAR said:
Did a thermostat replacement and coolant fill on my brother’s wife’s Town and Country.

I ran it up to temp using my coolant funnel from NAPA, and I kept noticing the wisps of steam from the tailpipe. 🤨

Checked temps on the dashboard and via my scan tool. At idle, in 38*F outside temperatures, it would run all the way up to 230*F. I checked owner forums for these vans and that’s within spec. But that temperature was seen by members only when outside temps were above 100*F.

It only cooled down when running up the engine speed to 2000 rpm - then the engine temp came down to 197*F but would climb back up rapidly if let back down to idle. 🤔. Radiator is not blocked up by mud, and the fans kick on when it’s running hot.

With the steam, and high engine coolant temperatures, I’m ready to condemn a head gasket. I informed my brother and wife and I’m inclined to pull it, and swap in a used engine that I’ve gone over beforehand (new gaskets, oil pump, water pump, etc.) before swapping it into the van. 😎
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If it's a 3.6 make sure you crack the bleeder on the thermostat housing as you're pouring in the initial fill. Although it doesn't sound like it's air locked.
 
Kennedy01 said:
If it's a 3.6 make sure you crack the bleeder on the thermostat housing as you're pouring in the initial fill. Although it doesn't sound like it's air locked.
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I did of course, as well as use my fill funnel, designed to be the high point in the cooling system. The steamy tailpipe is my indicator of coolant being ingested.
 
RAR said:
I did of course, as well as use my fill funnel, designed to be the high point in the cooling system. The steamy tailpipe is my indicator of coolant being ingested.
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Do you know how long the plugs have been in there? You'll sometimes see crystalline buildup on the strap if burning coolant for awhile. Yeah, it's almost as bad as the Crystalline Entity
 
D60 said:
Do you know how long the plugs have been in there? You'll sometimes see crystalline buildup on the strap if burning coolant for awhile. Yeah, it's almost as bad as the Crystalline Entity
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All of that was replaced within 20k miles.

I am leaning toward my plan to replace with a reconditioned used engine.
 
Co-worker brought his 2006 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 (5.7L) over to have the lower ball joints, sway bar end links, outer tie rod ends and valve cover gaskets replaced.

I studied up on the repair and while it wasn't terribly difficult (very few curse words spoken), it was time consuming. I bought the biggest air hammer that fit my budget for the job (Astro Pneumatic 4980, aka "big nasty" according to internet lore). It made removing the OEM ball joints fairly easy, though I wish I'd worn earplugs. All the new parts fit fine and seemed decent quality. Used TRW lower ball joints, Moog sway bar end links and Mevotech Supreme outer tie rod ends.

Purchased a ball joint press kit to install the new ones, that worked just fine. All in all I probably didn't make any money on the job as the money I earned went to a couple semi-expensive tools (required for this job) that will come in handy for future repairs. But I was able to help a guy out and learn a thing or two in the process.

Valve cover gaskets were fairly easy aside from the rear couple bolts & coils that are buried back under the cowl against the firewall that are nearly impossible to get to. I pity any guy that has shorter arms than I do that has to do this repair.

In the photo are the old ball joints that "big nasty" got ahold of.

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Went to church in the AM. Cold windy and wet outside, but caught two more rodents, put them on top of the mound. Wanna see if there are takers.

Bought 12 large sacks of organic compost and hauled to the garden for the wife and was about enough of being outside. Brrrrrrrrrrrr..

Reset the analog clocks

Fixed some carpet on the steps that was not low cost to install. Loafing guy 3 years back. Had the gall to hit on my wife at the time. She was disgusted by the guy. Laughable.

Picked and boxed 2 ebay orders

Gonna go lock the shop and watch some videos...........something is cooking and smells amazing
 
ISL 9 Cummins in a fire apparatus. Replaced exhaust manifold gaskets and bolts, resealed EGR cooler, replaced and program VGT actuator along with all coolant line seals. Changed the rocker box gasket , valve cover gasket and oil filter mounting gasket. Replaced the DEF sending unit, driver side battery box and 5 batteries. To top it off Changed out the relay box at the back of the head with the sub harness, the crankcase breather filter and gave the engine a good steam cleaning from all the leaks.

Long day with this truck. Lots of issues fixed though.

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Incredibly technical jobs <----sarcasm
1. removed snows and put summer tires on '15 Subaru Forester (already mounted on wheels)
2. changed engine oil and transmission spill 'n fill on wife's '08 F150
3. changed oil '07 CTD 6.7

Ordered a couple more Gold Plugs for the shop despite controversy over magnetic engine oil plugs (I still fall in the "it can't hurt" camp)
 
Kennedy01 said:
On the 4wd trucks, 99-13, I've done oil pan gasket/oil pump jobs, albeit on a lift, and just take the front axle loose and let it hang.

On a side note, I was browsing a Chevy forum last weekend, can't remember which one, and came across a member with your name who post about building a 302 LT1 using a 5.7 LT1 block and the 4.3 L99 crank and rods for a customer. You perhaps?
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That was me, Don't work on many Gen II small blocks anymore.....Have a LT4 I can't get rid of.
 
1993 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced headlight switch, upper radiator hose, rotated tires

1968 Chevrolet Malibu
One of my bosses partial restoration projects
Helped him set the engine back in the car, installed radiator and installed transmission. He's running a carbureted Vortec 350 and a 700R4 in this one

2013 Dodge Durango 3.6 V6
Diagnosed a bad starter. I was an hour into moving the drivers side motor mount out of the way when I called it a day. Nice work Dodge! 👎
 
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Did some maintenance and repair work on my niece’s 2008 Chrysler Town & Country with the 3.8 V6.

Pulled off the intake plenum to aid in easier removal of the valve cover gaskets. The engine has oil all over from leaky gaskets and I got a set of Fel-Pro gaskets for the valve covers and the intake. Good thing I did. 🤨

Whoever was in this engine before (with the salvage yard writing hidden under the brackets, wiring, etc.) had replaced these, probably with the same set I used (both a bright blue color). Except they used a ton, and I’m thinking a huge tube or two, or gray RTV on the gaskets. It was everywhere, gluing the gasket to the head. They also filled the valley under the intake with a lot of it as well.

My job became cleanup of all this stuff. Way too much on gaskets that don’t even use this stuff. 😑. Even the thermostat had orange RTV smeared all over the o-ring gasket. 😳. Someone assumed some is good so an entire tube of RTV is best! 🙄

But I got the new set in, all cleaned and where is the plug and wires I got for this? Missing. No idea where. So I ordered a set from NAPA, since I was getting a No. 5 misfire. Putting them in this morning and sending it. BTW, those plug wires are crusty, cracked and likely way past retirement.

Fun!
 
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