What are you working on today?

Replaced the cartridge in one of our 30 year old Moen single handle faucets. Amazing difference - it operates easily and smoothly now and our daughter can use it without struggling.

The aftermarket stuff was $20 cheaper but the Moen part was pre-greased (I would have had to buy some) and also came with a tool to loosen the old one.

Planned oil change for the 2005 CRV got delayed to this weekend.
 
Changed an outlet and installed the second hanging light that finally arrived.
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2000 GMC Sierra 2500
6.0 Vortec replaced spark plugs, plug wires, air filter and fuel filter

Finally burned that brush pile. Good thing, tomorrow is expected to be a wash out.
 
D60 said:
Then in prep for tomorrow I took a look at this Precision fuel pump I bought for an '88 XJ. I really just wanted the sending unit, and the Precision pump itself had epically bad reviews on O'Reilly's site (side note: I give O'Reilly credit for seemingly not censoring negative reviews) which was easy for me to believe because I had a Precision lift pump on a CTD die a very early death. In that case the reviews were terrible, too.

In the spirit of trust-but-verify, I ohm'd the sending unit and it was ALL OVER THE MAP. I knew it should be 0 to 88 but it'd flutter into the hundreds (sometimes 400+ ohms) while moving the arm, and even if you held it steady to simulate a fixed fuel level but gently pushed/pulled it'd go insane. View attachment 205094

I took my pocket knife and pre-loaded the contact more and it now reads a steady 1.5 to 93 ohms (which should be just fine for 0 to 88) regardless of lateral movement, and no longer jumps while lowering or raising the arm. Lower left of photo is precision sending unit adjustment tool, aka pocket knife blade:View attachment 205095

Just the same, it left a really bad taste in my mouth and I'm not confident in the sending unit even if I could transfer the known, working pump to it (I never intended to run the Precision pump). If anyone had blindly installed this they'd have an inop/inconsistent/unreliable fuel reading.

So I'm gonna tell the guy I'll have to order quality parts and fix it after my upcoming vacation. O'Reilly can take this pump and shove it, as the song goes.
Click to expand...
Quoting myself, I got the US Motor Works branded pump from RA. Overall, it feels like a much nicer piece. I could swear it's heavier -- I wish I still had the crappy Precision to weigh.

Resistance on the sender was good out of the box and the movement of the float arm just feels smoother somehow.

Also the sending unit anchors with screws vs rivets for the Precision:
20240307_174548.jpg

Seen here, the unit I removed vs the new US Motor Works. The existing pump was stamped Made in France -- could this be the original Renix from '88 with 220k miles?
20240307_174542.jpg

edit: also the original came out without a "sock" on the pickup. I don't think I knocked it off during removal. I didn't care to look in the tank to try to find it, if it was even there. Shouldn't hurt anything unless it gets stuck under the float I suppose
 
2008 Silverado 1500, LMG 5.3L/4L60E, 372,xxx miles.

Long time customer, He's a driller in the West Texas oil patch so he really racks up the miles.
I turned off the AFM in the ECM years ago when it had a little over 100,000 miles.
The intake lifter on #4 decided it was time to act out by collapsing intermittently, Made quite a loud snapping noise followed by a misfire on #4. The snapping noise is from the lifter collapsing on the nose of it's cam lobe instead of on the base circle.

A leaky AFM Solenoid can cause this, So I installed a Non-AFM valley cover first. Think it actually got worse/more frequent :rolleyes:

Gave him some options.....6.0L swap, Rebuild, New engine, AFM Delete. He wanted cheap as possible without cutting corners.

AFM delete it is......

*Used LQ4/LQ9 camshaft.
*GM Performance LS7 lifters 12499225, I usually use GM Performance "Bowite" lifters.
*Summit Racing lifter trays.
*GM cam gear.
*GM LS2 chain damper.
*GM timing chain
*GM head gaskets & bolts
*Fel-Pro valve cover, valley cover, & timing cover set.
*Recently had a Mahle oil pan gasket installed & I was able to save it
*Recently had an oil change so I drained it into clean jug, I'll run it during the test drive....Then spill it for some fresh oil.
*Didn't run any parts through my spray cabinet, Heating 80 gallons of water from 60° to 170° isn't free.

The hardened surface on one of the lobes was starting flack, I didn't keep track of the lifter order upon disassembly & couldn't identify the lifter from that lobe as there was no discernable damage to any of the lifter rollers.


2XjoQtQ.jpeg

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clinebarger said:
2008 Silverado 1500, LMG 5.3L/4L60E, 372,xxx miles.

Long time customer, He's a driller in the West Texas oil patch so he really racks up the miles.
I turned off the AFM in the ECM years ago when it had a little over 100,000 miles.
The intake lifter on #4 decided it was time to act out by collapsing intermittently, Made quite a loud snapping noise followed by a misfire on #4. The snapping noise is from the lifter collapsing on the nose of it's cam lobe instead of on the base circle.

A leaky AFM Solenoid can cause this, So I installed a Non-AFM valley cover first. Think it actually got worse/more frequent :rolleyes:

Gave him some options.....6.0L swap, Rebuild, New engine, AFM Delete. He wanted cheap as possible without cutting corners.

AFM delete it is......

*Used LQ4/LQ9 camshaft.
*GM Performance LS7 lifters 12499225, I usually use GM Performance "Bowite" lifters.
*Summit Racing lifter trays.
*GM cam gear.
*GM LS2 chain damper.
*GM timing chain
*GM head gaskets & bolts
*Fel-Pro valve cover, valley cover, & timing cover set.
*Recently had a Mahle oil pan gasket installed & I was able to save it
*Recently had an oil change so I drained it into clean jug, I'll run it during the test drive....Then spill it for some fresh oil.
*Didn't run any parts through my spray cabinet, Heating 80 gallons of water from 60° to 170° isn't free.

The hardened surface on one of the lobes was starting flack, I didn't keep track of the lifter order upon disassembly & couldn't identify the lifter from that lobe as there was no discernable damage to any of the lifter rollers.


2XjoQtQ.jpeg

8yT8jT3.jpeg

bv9jQwJ.jpeg

nUZIUHp.jpeg

440OJWP.jpeg

G8mbleO.jpeg

beYNaMu.jpeg

hBPtqfF.jpeg

vYCLkQe.jpeg

cHUahxu.jpeg
Click to expand...
Ive done a cam and lifter replacement in a 2007 Tahoe several years ago, in the truck. My thoughts afterwards were it would've been less labor intensive to pull the engine and put it on a stand. What do you think?
 
A tale of dealership LOF incompetence on a '19 Cherokee:

One of two hoses on the rear of the airbox would NOT come off. Upon closer inspection I saw someone else had been in here before and apparently had a similar problem:
20240308_153023.jpg

I'm pretty sure they didn't know how the clips work and somehow pried the gray out of its slot, when it should be tucked in:
20240308_160819.jpg

Upper is correct (all gray tucked away so it can be depressed), lower is not right
20240308_160838.jpg

It's a Mopar filter and the owner confirmed only the dealer has ever serviced it. This is the first I've seen of an extra layer of fuzz glued to the pleats. The mice are really grateful!!
20240308_160430.jpg

Also, one airbox screw was just MIA. But FFS, if you're the dealer just go get a replacement screw!!!

So, in one TINY area of the vehicle the dealer had THREE transgressions:
1) lost airbox screw (ok, stuff happens)
2) broke nipple off airbox
3) somehow damaged clip for said nipple (pro tip: a slightly angled pick in the inside diameter of fitting allowed me to easily slide the "oval" keeper over and disengage)

The vehicle has 29,500 miles (I had previously mistakenly said 25k) so it can't have had THAT many hands on it
 
1999 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 V8
Diagnosed a bad MAP sensor, replaced it.

2018 Toyota 4Runner 4.0 V6
Replaced rear brake pads, rotated tires, changed oil

Did some cleaning and reorganizing in the shop
 
Kennedy01 said:
Ive done a cam and lifter replacement in a 2007 Tahoe several years ago, in the truck. My thoughts afterwards were it would've been less labor intensive to pull the engine and put it on a stand. What do you think?
Click to expand...

I've done it both ways several times....I can do it in-frame a little faster, With the help of a underhood creeper it isn't to bad on my back.
Digital torque/angle wrenches also help doing it in-frame.

On 2014 & up K2xx trucks.....I pull the engine.
 
clinebarger said:
I've done it both ways several times....I can do it in-frame a little faster, With the help of a underhood creeper it isn't to bad on my back.
Digital torque/angle wrenches also help doing it in-frame.

On 2014 & up K2xx trucks.....I pull the engine.
Click to expand...
On the 4wd trucks, 99-13, I've done oil pan gasket/oil pump jobs, albeit on a lift, and just take the front axle loose and let it hang.

On a side note, I was browsing a Chevy forum last weekend, can't remember which one, and came across a member with your name who post about building a 302 LT1 using a 5.7 LT1 block and the 4.3 L99 crank and rods for a customer. You perhaps?
 
Replaced rear axle seals and installed 2 inch rear spacers on the tractor. Next up, a minor welding project to cobble the hood back on, and / or make a new one. This model was notorious for body plastics that are brittle.



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So yesterday I finished up a fuel pump swap on an '88 Cherokee then addressed an oil leak on a '19 Cherokee. As they share a namesake, they are clearly very similar vehicles:
20240309_153858.webp


In other news, this KL was the first I've driven of the 2.0T. I found it underwhelming. It sounds like a tractor at idle and accelerates like a fart car -- I kept expecting Vin Diesel to jump out and scream, "NNAAAWWWSSSE!!" ..... which we all know is nitrous oxide :D

I feel like my 3.6 JL w 37's and still running stock 4.10s is faster, but maybe not
 
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