What are you working on today?

D60 said:
Rabbit hole day. Installing a rebuilt AX15 from High Gear Transmissions in TN in an '88 XJ. Vehicle had already been swapped to AX15-- should have been a BA10 originally.

It was shipped with the shifter and I went to pull the shifter today so I could shove it under the vehicle. Then the rabbit hole opened. I discovered so much rusty gunk in the shifter housing I decided to unbolt it to clean it out rather than knock it all down into the case.

First, the bolts came out awfully hard and I couldn't understand why. Also the bolts were different lengths and the longer ones had just the bottom threads chewed up. Bonus points if you suspect what happened already.View attachment 177995

I selected the worst hole and started to clean it up with an M8x1.25 tap. It was tapping really weird....couldn't figure that out either. Finally it became clear when my tap shoved out a Helicoil (fortunately I chose an exterior, through hole!!). I really think whatever genius installed these didn't break off the installation tang. Then he just drove the longer bolts into the tang, munching the bottom threads. Helicoil on left:View attachment 177996

Tons of gunk and chunks and rust at the lever seat.View attachment 177998

Also the shifter housing had not been sealed and had remnants of old gasket on it View attachment 177997

And I think this is supposed to be a vent but it's clogged solid.View attachment 178000

I decided to use the shifter housing from the old unit which is when I discovered the conical ball seat was flat out missing from the High Gear unit. Maybe those were the rusty, gritty chunks I found, but does a plastic/poly really break down like that??

View attachment 177999
View attachment 177994

Right now, not too impressed with High Gear, and the packaging on the pallet left a lot to be desired.
Click to expand...
Great job Bro!
I would'nt attempt am AT overhaul. I'm sure I could learn to do it, and do it, but it would be an awful job for me these days, especially the R&R.
 
paulo57509 said:
Old Fords with contact ignitions; you could run a jumper wire from the +battery (post or solenoid) to the +side of the coil. Jump the solenoid and drive off. Of course, the contacts wouldn't last very long. Like stealing a Kia.
Click to expand...
Yeah, old point system dodge too!
 
W8. Cabin filter change (FCP Euro so basically free!) and located the missing clip.

1000016605.jpg
1000016606.jpg
 
BMW Dom said:
I hated doing the valve cover gasket 😭
Click to expand...
This car being a 2006 has the aluminum cover and metal/rubber gasket, it is slightly easier to do in my opinion compared to the plastic valve cover engines, as there really isn't a way to pinch the gasket in the back like the newer engines. Just a messy job, and even after having done a few of these I still managed to drop a bolt into the under tray and had to fish it out with a magnet. 🤦‍♂️
 
2019 Ford Explorer
Rotated tires, inspected brakes, changed oil

1985 Chevrolet Silverado C10 305 V8
Replaced ignition module, inspected front end

2011 Ford Edge
Replaced windshield washer nozzles
 
2011 Toyota Corolla 1.8 4 cylinder
R&I intake manifold for starter replacement, replaced intake seals

1985 Chevrolet Silverado C10
Replaced idler and pitman arms

2000 Chevrolet Silverado 4.8 Vortec V8
Diagnosed bad fuel pump. Will replace tomorrow
 
cptbarkey said:
Engine attempt #2. I was all prepared with 6013 1/16th electrodes, but chickened out after your wise words and learned how the risk of metal warping was very high. Instead I chopped about 1.5 inches off the center frame cross member. There is 4 inches of 1/4 thick flat bar left. It will be fine. Maybe. If not can reinforce it later.

Then I chopped up the lower radiator fan shroud a bit because this engine is shorter, and the engine fits great. Tomorrow picking up a 90 degree coolant fitting for the lower rad connection. Its really tight between the engine and radiator but it is what it is. I am confidant enough I poured in 3 quarts of sacrificial Rotella T4, then its rehooking things and see if it chooches. ETA this weekend?


View attachment 204770
Click to expand...
Engine attempt #2 failed. She cranks great, but no fuel from the injection pump. The rack is frozen so it needs a rebuild, and probably why the seller was selling. I have a known good pump from the old engine and it works great. While swapping it, my fat shaky hands dropped the start spring into the gear case side (front). After a few attempts with fat fingers, magnets, hooks, the mechanic gods still laughed at me. I have a much smaller bendable magnet coming tonight but have already ordered a front timing case gasket and a few other needful bits to remove the front timing cover.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
cptbarkey said:
Engine attempt #2 failed. She cranks great, but no fuel from the injection pump. The rack is frozen so it needs a rebuild, and probably why the seller was selling. I have a known good pump from the old engine and it works great. While swapping it, my fat shaky hands dropped the start spring into the gear case side (front). After a few attempts with fat fingers, magnets, hooks, the mechanic gods still laughed at me. I have a much smaller bendable magnet coming tonight but have already ordered a front timing case gasket and a few other needful bits to remove the front timing cover.
Click to expand...
I do not relish your frustration but it's comforting to know I'm not the only one who does stuff like this
 
2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, changed oil

1985 Chevrolet Silverado C10
Pan drop and filter change on the transmission, replaced transmission tail shaft seal, changed engine oil
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
"Knock Knock".... Who's there??? No it's not the 2.4L 🤣

A very common source of steering wheel knocks and on center "play", and that would be the rubber/plastic steering wheel coupler bushing on EPS equipped Hyundai/Kia vehicles.


The sonata has a silent recall/extension/customer satisfaction note for the EPS steering wheel coupler replacement. The OEM coupler replacement part is about seven dollars... I decided to tackle it myself to know "it's done right".. (and techs HATE warranty flat rate work esp on 10 plus old H/K's)


It was a no drama replacement. It took about 1 1/2 hours taking my time and being obsessive.

I would say the hardest part is trying to re-center the steering wheel column as a whole (while laying on your back under the dash lifting up the steering column to try to get the hook that holds it so than you can start with the 2 nuts, and 2 bolts that hold the column to the dash support)

After I verified there was no error codes/issues electronically followed up with the recalibration of the steering angle sensor, did a master hard reset of all "learned values" and as a final touch, changed the steering assist mode to "SE SPORT from "BASE"

Extremely pleased with the results, and would not discourage anyone from tackling this project themselves.
All that is involved is removing about 15 different wire connections, a few plastic trim pieces and a few nuts and bolts...

Do not rush the plastic clips or the plastic panels or plastic anything lol.

IMG_4543.jpeg
IMG_4545.jpeg
IMG_4548.jpeg
IMG_4549.jpeg
 
PCV upgrade to VW MK8 GTI/R PCV utilizing the current generation Tiguan hose and running the venturi hose off the turbo for max crankcase vacuum/reduce chances of smoking on track. Data logs look normal.

 
2003 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4.8 Vortec
Diagnosed a bad cylinder #1 fuel injector harness connector, repaired it with a repair plug from Napa.

1998 GMC Sierra 1500 rollover 5.7 Vortec
Started pulling the engine for use in another truck. I'll have it out in the morning.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

G
Lug Nuts Seizing Up
2
Replies
35
Views
5K
SHOZ
Nick1994
Tire troubles on multiple vehicles
2
Replies
31
Views
2K
hrv
andyd
Tire rotation on my other 2016 Camry
Replies
3
Views
732
Eddie
clinebarger
Make your own test leads
Replies
14
Views
8K
JHZR2
W
20,000 miles in a CX-5 GT-R
3 4 5
Replies
91
Views
19K
14Accent
Back
Top