What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Changed the dash bulbs in my daughter's WJ. Wow! If only all cars where that easy!
'02 Subaru Forester: new evap vent valve, new IAT sensor, oil change, new RF CV axle, and some non-foulers for those, um...ya know....fouled spark plugs.
I honestly don't know how this made it 414k miles, but it's still here. There are leaks on the engine but it never left a drop on my shop floor in two days. It's allegedly on the original engine, but I'm very skeptical of that claim.
Yeah, there'll be no re-booting that joint:
Then in prep for tomorrow I took a look at this Precision fuel pump I bought for an '88 XJ. I really just wanted the sending unit, and the Precision pump itself had epically bad reviews on O'Reilly's site (side note: I give O'Reilly credit for seemingly not censoring negative reviews) which was easy for me to believe because I had a Precision lift pump on a CTD die a very early death. In that case the reviews were terrible, too.
In the spirit of trust-but-verify, I ohm'd the sending unit and it was ALL OVER THE MAP. I knew it should be 0 to 88 but it'd flutter into the hundreds (sometimes 400+ ohms) while moving the arm, and even if you held it steady to simulate a fixed fuel level but gently pushed/pulled it'd go insane.
I took my pocket knife and pre-loaded the contact more and it now reads a steady 1.5 to 93 ohms (which should be just fine for 0 to 88) regardless of lateral movement, and no longer jumps while lowering or raising the arm. Lower left of photo is precision sending unit adjustment tool, aka pocket knife blade:
Just the same, it left a really bad taste in my mouth and I'm not confident in the sending unit even if I could transfer the known, working pump to it (I never intended to run the Precision pump). If anyone had blindly installed this they'd have an inop/inconsistent/unreliable fuel reading.
So I'm gonna tell the guy I'll have to order quality parts and fix it after my upcoming vacation. O'Reilly can take this pump and shove it, as the song goes.
I honestly don't know how this made it 414k miles, but it's still here. There are leaks on the engine but it never left a drop on my shop floor in two days. It's allegedly on the original engine, but I'm very skeptical of that claim.
Yeah, there'll be no re-booting that joint:
Then in prep for tomorrow I took a look at this Precision fuel pump I bought for an '88 XJ. I really just wanted the sending unit, and the Precision pump itself had epically bad reviews on O'Reilly's site (side note: I give O'Reilly credit for seemingly not censoring negative reviews) which was easy for me to believe because I had a Precision lift pump on a CTD die a very early death. In that case the reviews were terrible, too.
In the spirit of trust-but-verify, I ohm'd the sending unit and it was ALL OVER THE MAP. I knew it should be 0 to 88 but it'd flutter into the hundreds (sometimes 400+ ohms) while moving the arm, and even if you held it steady to simulate a fixed fuel level but gently pushed/pulled it'd go insane.
I took my pocket knife and pre-loaded the contact more and it now reads a steady 1.5 to 93 ohms (which should be just fine for 0 to 88) regardless of lateral movement, and no longer jumps while lowering or raising the arm. Lower left of photo is precision sending unit adjustment tool, aka pocket knife blade:
Just the same, it left a really bad taste in my mouth and I'm not confident in the sending unit even if I could transfer the known, working pump to it (I never intended to run the Precision pump). If anyone had blindly installed this they'd have an inop/inconsistent/unreliable fuel reading.
So I'm gonna tell the guy I'll have to order quality parts and fix it after my upcoming vacation. O'Reilly can take this pump and shove it, as the song goes.
Thanks! I tried to get one from AutoZone but the nearest store with stock was 1.5 hours away.
Reading reviews on Amazon, the Delphi sure doesn't sound much better. Talk of premature pump failure and a couple reviewers mention broken welds, but who knows if that was from rushed or careless installation. Another says the pump is incredibly loud and another says he had to modify the mounting tab to get it to fit.
If anyone REALLY cares the reviews are here, but I understand very few people are shopping for a fuel pump assy for a Renix XJ these days:
ANYWAY, I'm looking at the US Motor Works USEP7091S. It's consistently the most expensive in cyberland and the company goes to great lengths to talk about all the quality materials they use. Maybe just lip service, though. It at least looks different than the others with a gold mounting plate rather than silver for all the others. Maybe it doesn't come from the same factory as all the other Chinese junk.
I don't have any experience with this company, however.
Never heard of a production tall deck 454 Mark IV, 366 & 427 only. If it has dual thermostats...It's a tall deck intake & has either a 366 or 427 as tall deck intakes don't fit standard deck Mark IV without milling & a distributor spacer.
Tall deck big blocks employ an extra piston ring.
Scheming ways to partially block window drip holes to allow breathing but no insects
Upgraded my Fit from the spec’ed 151R ATV battery to 51R Civic battery.
I’ll need to put in new positive terminal clam and housing as the OEM is too big and won’t sit properly onto the terminal post. I secured it down and bought new harness bolt to secure the battery; one bolt is too short once the existing battery tray was cut down.
Possible future upgrade: Get a 2009 or earlier or Euro/Asia Jazz battery tray as Jazz comes standard with 51R.
Very proud of myself. 151R is a smallest automotive battery and only slightly bigger than scooter and ATV battery. It maybe the same size as small SxS battery as the bigger SxS use either single or dual 51R, 24 or 24F, or 35.
This battery upgrade will help in subzero morning start as well as not worrying about running down the battery when sitting waiting for family at grocery store while charging thr phone.
And it should provide a lot of comfort knowing 51R is available at all automotive stores, Walmart, Costco, BJ, Battery Plus, and even gas stations and repair garages whereas 151R is being discontinued by most battery makers and the one or two that still make them do so via store brands over $250 whereas Costco charges $120.
I’ll need to put in new positive terminal clam and housing as the OEM is too big and won’t sit properly onto the terminal post. I secured it down and bought new harness bolt to secure the battery; one bolt is too short once the existing battery tray was cut down.
Possible future upgrade: Get a 2009 or earlier or Euro/Asia Jazz battery tray as Jazz comes standard with 51R.
Very proud of myself. 151R is a smallest automotive battery and only slightly bigger than scooter and ATV battery. It maybe the same size as small SxS battery as the bigger SxS use either single or dual 51R, 24 or 24F, or 35.
This battery upgrade will help in subzero morning start as well as not worrying about running down the battery when sitting waiting for family at grocery store while charging thr phone.
And it should provide a lot of comfort knowing 51R is available at all automotive stores, Walmart, Costco, BJ, Battery Plus, and even gas stations and repair garages whereas 151R is being discontinued by most battery makers and the one or two that still make them do so via store brands over $250 whereas Costco charges $120.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2012
- Messages
- 3,573
Holy cannoli is that a tiny battery. What year Fit? I forgot about them cars… they must’ve stopped making them years back?
My Can-Am has a battery that’s bigger (CCA) than what I saw some 151Rs were (370). Good upgrade you did.
Just did the brakes on my F350.
Replaced both rear rotors, one rear caliper and all new pads, with Detroit Axle parts. Getting 55,000 miles out of a set of pads on those nasty rotors. With the new rotors I should be getting 75,000 or so.
Replaced both rear rotors, one rear caliper and all new pads, with Detroit Axle parts. Getting 55,000 miles out of a set of pads on those nasty rotors. With the new rotors I should be getting 75,000 or so.Was supposed to be a quick oil change on the Mad Max SJ Forester. At the moment the 16" steelies with snows combined with the bumper I built turn the Mad Max dial to 11. Still, it's a good commuter for the girl who drives it, passing through 120 miles of rural deer country 5 days/week
While on the lift I found the right rear making light grinding noises, so I went to pull the wheel only to find what makes a Subaru a Subaru: an inexplicably seized lugnut. It stalled my mid-torque but the 2767 sheared it.
Fortunately I still stock Subaru lug studs and nuts so it was back in service relatively quickly. And yeah, the noise was nothing -- just mud and dust from the spring mud season.
While on the lift I found the right rear making light grinding noises, so I went to pull the wheel only to find what makes a Subaru a Subaru: an inexplicably seized lugnut. It stalled my mid-torque but the 2767 sheared it.
Fortunately I still stock Subaru lug studs and nuts so it was back in service relatively quickly. And yeah, the noise was nothing -- just mud and dust from the spring mud season.
While I detest Ford and pretty much everything about them, I will give credit where its due. The 1999 F250 Superduty 5.4 was having some no crank situations. Battery was good, cleaned connections, shift linkage tight so its either the solenoid, starter or neutral safety switch. After some playing around, believed to be the aftermarket solenoid. Well Ford, placing it on the fender is a well played move. Ten minutes and done.
I bet the engineer who came up with that has long been fired.
I then ripped down my eight year old Husky 445 for a cleaning. Still runs like a top.
I bet the engineer who came up with that has long been fired.
I then ripped down my eight year old Husky 445 for a cleaning. Still runs like a top.
Last edited:
It also means with a pocket knife you don't care about or screwdriver you can always just jump across the big contacts to crank it.
Also nice with a remote start button for troubleshooting no spark from the engine bay. Aaaaaaannnndddd that leads us back to Team TFI and thus any Ford engineering prowess once again seems outweighed by their faux pas.....sigh
And I'm pretty much a "Ford guy"!!!!
Platforms on and out together. Still have a little work to do but tired. Taking a couple day break.
Removing what I thought was grout but is 10 year old, hard, cracked, plumbers putty. What a cheap, lousy thing to use in the kitchen. Easy on the blade but stinks (smells musty, sulfury, old as I blade it). O-tool makes for quick work.
Will use 100 year caulk. White.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2021
- Messages
- 1,283
Made this Coffee scoop from old pill bottle, and lampshade Finial.
