What are you working on today?

What CMP sensor codes did it have? Correlation DTC's & a whole bank of misfiring cylinders is a good indicator that it's jumped time. Hopefully it's in otherwise good shape as they're expensive used & on backorder through Ford last I checked.
P0019-EC: Crankshaft Position-Camshaft position Correlation Bank #2 Sensor B.
P0025:00-EC: Camshaft position timing-Over-Retarded Bank 2
Misfires: P0305, P0306, P0307, and P0308. Also a P0316: Misfire detected on startup. (First 1000 Revolutions)

The wife wants to get rid of the vehicle. They have it at a shop to get looked at so I guess they are thinking of getting it fixed.
 
Replaced GLK250's transmission mount. OE mount was compressed and a bit loose, the rubber being dry-rotted. New Lemfoerder mount went in easy peasy. Quite a difference now with much less vibration and driveline rumbling/harmonics being properly isolated.
 
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2010 Venza. Dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Only code was P0118. Much like an XJ I just dealt with, I did notice the electric fan was running non-stop after a brief test drive. I should have also noticed the dash temp gauge had no reading, but I was distracted by the rear struts which sounded like a box of rocks.

Anyway rodents decided the ECT wiring was the best wiring. And they didn't leave me much to work with so I'm looking for a new connector (NAPA claims to have one). Would lack of ECT trigger VSC/traction control error lights too? @The Critic
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^^^so yes, VSC had set a code for "engine control malfunction". I wired up a new ECT connector, cleared the OBDII P0118 and the VSC code, and all is well.

Replaced rear struts with Sachs. This is actually the first chance I've had to use my ancient Branick since tapping a couple holes in a shop column and squeezing it in to a sorta tight space. It actually worked great and any space constraints are a non-issue.
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Sachs kinda lets their bare struts bang around in the box. This wasn't really RA's fault, but fortunately they survived shipping with no damage.
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2007 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8
Replaced ignition coils, spark plugs and air filter

1988 GMC Sierra 1500
Got the rear end swap done. Pulled the cover off the replacement unit to drain the old oil, resealed the cover. Rear brakes were in better shape on the replacement than the old unit, but wheel cylinders are leaking. Got new ones ready to install tomorrow.
 
Door lock actuator repair on the Camry
It's much cheaper than buying the whole assembly
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The OG 👌
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And now I've got a passenger rear door that locks/unlocks properly 🤌
Found out why I've got poor warm up and barely ~150°f coolant temps on the highway
This was a Toyota OEM thermostat I installed ~7 years and ~150k ago
See that gap?
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Seems ever so slightly stuck open, so a new Aisin (Tama) unit was installed
Why can't they include the gasket 🤷‍♂️
I added a new gasket and radiator hose tube o-ring, because you've gotta 🤷‍♂️
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My spill free funnel has grown legs, so I improvised
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It then boiled over... 🙄
A new Lisle spill free funnel will be here tomorrow
I can hear the air in the heater core 😳
And it won't idle down after a throttle body cleaning, I hope I didn't damage the DBW TB
I'm letting it sit overnight with the battery disconnected 😔
 
Major service to the Mini.

New timing set installed. Watched a couple of videos on replacement, ordered in all of what I’d need and got started.

Crank seal I got in my RockAuto order was a rear main seal, but NAPA had one next day. So I took an overnight break and got it the next morning.

Finished up, torqued everything as precisely as I had documented, marked bolts as they were torqued and triple checked my work. No plugs were left undone, no extra bolts anywhere.

I put on new tensioners, a Bando belt (possibly triggering anyone who dislikes Bando for some reason 😁), buttoned it up sans headlights since I’m installing new CAPA lights, and a new valve cover.

Misfires. Hmmm… ok, the new valve cover has an open port and that’s a big ol’ vacuum leak. Closed it off and rechecked. Cleared all codes. Starts up nicely, quietly (no more plasticky rattle), but the cheapo oxygen sensor upstream has a failed heater circuit. Internal failure. Probably was dying for a bit before this. New NTK on order.

Worth it!? Yes! Car runs like new, minus the oxygen sensor.

Pics show why I did what I did.

New timing chain guides are a green tinged white, like a glow-in-the-dark looking plastic. These are deep, brown maroon. Original looks like, with 129k on them.

Done just in time it looks like. 😎
 

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Major service to the Mini.

New timing set installed. Watched a couple of videos on replacement, ordered in all of what I’d need and got started.

Crank seal I got in my RockAuto order was a rear main seal, but NAPA had one next day. So I took an overnight break and got it the next morning.

Finished up, torqued everything as precisely as I had documented, marked bolts as they were torqued and triple checked my work. No plugs were left undone, no extra bolts anywhere.

I put on new tensioners, a Bando belt (possibly triggering anyone who dislikes Bando for some reason 😁), buttoned it up sans headlights since I’m installing new CAPA lights, and a new valve cover.

Misfires. Hmmm… ok, the new valve cover has an open port and that’s a big ol’ vacuum leak. Closed it off and rechecked. Cleared all codes. Starts up nicely, quietly (no more plasticky rattle), but the cheapo oxygen sensor upstream has a failed heater circuit. Internal failure. Probably was dying for a bit before this. New NTK on order.

Worth it!? Yes! Car runs like new, minus the oxygen sensor.

Pics show why I did what I did.

New timing chain guides are a green tinged white, like a glow-in-the-dark looking plastic. These are deep, brown maroon. Original looks like, with 129k on them.

Done just in time it looks like. 😎
Good luck. If you didn't have bolts left over you did something wrong :D

Seriously, nice work, very cool!
 
Door lock actuator repair on the Camry
It's much cheaper than buying the whole assembly
View attachment 185351
View attachment 185353
View attachment 185352
The OG 👌
View attachment 185354
View attachment 185355
And now I've got a passenger rear door that locks/unlocks properly 🤌
Found out why I've got poor warm up and barely ~150°f coolant temps on the highway
This was a Toyota OEM thermostat I installed ~7 years and ~150k ago
See that gap?
View attachment 185356
View attachment 185357
Seems ever so slightly stuck open, so a new Aisin (Tama) unit was installed
Why can't they include the gasket 🤷‍♂️
I added a new gasket and radiator hose tube o-ring, because you've gotta 🤷‍♂️
View attachment 185359
My spill free funnel has grown legs, so I improvised
View attachment 185358
It then boiled over... 🙄
A new Lisle spill free funnel will be here tomorrow
I can hear the air in the heater core 😳
And it won't idle down after a throttle body cleaning, I hope I didn't damage the DBW TB
I'm letting it sit overnight with the battery disconnected 😔
it is AWESOME when you can source those little motors and spend $3 fixing at $120 part!! niiiiiice
 
1988 GMC Sierra 1500
Replaced rear wheel cylinders, replaced spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, ignition module, air filter, fuel filter, changed oil

2000 Ford Ranger
Inspected front end, needs upper control arms and an outer tie rod. Parts ordered, will fix it Monday

1987 Chevrolet C10
Inspected front end, needs left upper and lower ball joints. Parts ordered, will fix it Tuesday
 
Working on 05 Outback Xt.

JDM 2.0 swap. Rebuilt turbo.

Changing out all 4 shocks, springs, every bushing and ball joint as well as tie rods. New steering rack bushings.
 
Just cleaned all the battery terminals and put those felt pads since Amazon put a pack in my last delivery and didn't want them back.

Bought a cheap $20 12v battery tester and trying to determine if it or the BatteryTender is off: car that has been in garage for about a year on the BatteryTender shows a 90% SOC and the battery tester says the battery is "Good - Recharge".

Trying to figure out if the battery is fine and BatteryTender only charges to 90% or if battery tester just says "recharge" if battery isn't 100%
 
Just cleaned all the battery terminals and put those felt pads since Amazon put a pack in my last delivery and didn't want them back.

Bought a cheap $20 12v battery tester and trying to determine if it or the BatteryTender is off: car that has been in garage for about a year on the BatteryTender shows a 90% SOC and the battery tester says the battery is "Good - Recharge".

Trying to figure out if the battery is fine and BatteryTender only charges to 90% or if battery tester just says "recharge" if battery isn't 100%

My battery tester will say "Good - Recharge" even when the SOC is above 90%. What was the voltage being reported by the tester @ 90% SOC?
 
Have a slight parasitic draw in my F150, been dealing with it for about a month. Last few weeks I've just been hooking it up to my tender at night. When I first noticed it, I checked it with my multimeter and discovered I was dropping roughly half a volt to a little more over roughly 10 hours.

Last night, I got home early, didn't hook up the tender, and it sat for 16 hours. No loss in volts.

I suspected that it's intermittent as sometimes my tender shows a full charge after an hour and sometimes it never gets to full (very low amp tender) and my gut tells me it's my shifter sensor (known problem on console shift F150's). I don't mind tracking down a draw, but an intermittent one sucks big time. I rarely have the time to **** around with stuff like this and actually made time today. My off days at work are usually busier than my regular work days.

Battery is good. It's been tested 3-4 times a week over the last 4 weeks. The stores with a machine that tell me the CCA all report over 800 CCA on a battery rated for under 700 CCA new.
 
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