I'll be doing rear brake shoes on an old Sentra. For once, Napa had the best price locally and had it in stock. Pretty sure these shoes will go to the crusher with lots of material left.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Went to take my Maverick to have the hail damage repaired. Got a nice loaner from Geico/Enterprise.
Thanks.
Finished installing the rubber floor and re-installing the interior in the 97 GMC farm truck. Getting the seat bolt holes lined back up were a major Pain in the ass. Definitely glad this job is over.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2026
Work was really busy. We were only supposed to have 18 appointments but of course they took walk ins like they aren’t supposed too. We were working on anything from Mopars to Range Rovers it sucked. Lunch was interesting me and my coworker Danny boy went to Food Lion cause he needed to get a few things. When we got there there was this crazy lady probably 20 something or 30 something with two little boys who ran up to us and several others trying to give her kids away. They were standing next to me and Danny and they were scared. The store called the police who surrounded her vehicle and took her away in an ambulance after they finally got her out of the van which she ran and hid in. Some family member came and picked up the boys that we were watching because we weren’t going to leave them there alone. I don’t know what was wrong with the lady maybe some mental problems or something but she was acting crazy. So that made for an interesting lunch break. Then come back and had cars lined up. Needed to work on my car today but just don’t feel like it.
My friend who does road service called and asked me to come help him with a car so I just got done with that. I won’t let him work on my stuff after he told me a battery or alternator was the only thing that would make a car not start. I came out and diagnosed and fixed the car. I didn’t tell them anything I just done and left. It had no spark. Fixed that and back in business. I went to school with them but I wouldn’t trust them for anything. They are parts cannon people. I also made sure they didn’t charge the poor old man for these new parts they put on that he didn’t need.
My friend who does road service called and asked me to come help him with a car so I just got done with that. I won’t let him work on my stuff after he told me a battery or alternator was the only thing that would make a car not start. I came out and diagnosed and fixed the car. I didn’t tell them anything I just done and left. It had no spark. Fixed that and back in business. I went to school with them but I wouldn’t trust them for anything. They are parts cannon people. I also made sure they didn’t charge the poor old man for these new parts they put on that he didn’t need.
2007 Cadillac XLR, Host of issues with the convertible hardtop, Leaking/bad decklid lift struts, Bypassed micro switches, Bad control switch, Burnt main power feed terminal at the Roof Module.
Got all that repaired, Performed the Learn procedure via a Tech 2. Top now works flawlessly.
Got some work done to the 1996 C1500 LS swap, Engine is in, Bottom side done for the most part....Needs to go to the exhaust shop to connect the headers along with O2 bungs welded in.
Had to convert a 2003-2007 drive by wire harness to drive by cable.....Luckily I had a 2004 GMT800 4.3L harness to rob the TPS & IAC circuits out of. Customers will just have to buy harnesses from now on which has it's own set of challenges from a fit/function perspective.
Got all that repaired, Performed the Learn procedure via a Tech 2. Top now works flawlessly.
Got some work done to the 1996 C1500 LS swap, Engine is in, Bottom side done for the most part....Needs to go to the exhaust shop to connect the headers along with O2 bungs welded in.
Had to convert a 2003-2007 drive by wire harness to drive by cable.....Luckily I had a 2004 GMT800 4.3L harness to rob the TPS & IAC circuits out of. Customers will just have to buy harnesses from now on which has it's own set of challenges from a fit/function perspective.
Did you cross over into West Virginia?
And no one need be offended- my grandfather was a drunk machinist from WV and some of the stories I could tell about him.....phew!!
1975 Chevrolet K10
Truck was lifted without extending the brake hoses. The lines were run under the frame instead of mounted through it, and the stock K10 hoses were pulling tight at full steering lock. Hillbilly lift, no clue what parts were used or how much lift is on it, but I amended the issue by using front hoses for a C20 of the same vintage which are four inches longer. Was able to put the lines back where they belong and no clearance issues are present.
2001 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6
Replaced distributor cap and rotor button
2008 Chevrolet Silverado
Replaced front sway bar bushings and links
Truck was lifted without extending the brake hoses. The lines were run under the frame instead of mounted through it, and the stock K10 hoses were pulling tight at full steering lock. Hillbilly lift, no clue what parts were used or how much lift is on it, but I amended the issue by using front hoses for a C20 of the same vintage which are four inches longer. Was able to put the lines back where they belong and no clearance issues are present.
2001 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6
Replaced distributor cap and rotor button
2008 Chevrolet Silverado
Replaced front sway bar bushings and links
Is this true for K20 to C20 also?
Yep, its a J.G.C "L" 2024 with..... 11 miles on it. Had a "No" start condition, even with a jumper pack. it also had a check engine light for fuel sensor voltage, service awd, every automatic feature was disabled AND a "U" Connect battery low error.
Preformed a charging system test. Verified the battery was NOT accepting a charge, and was reading about 90 CCA.
Replaced the under the drivers seat battery with an oem 750 CCA battery, preformed electrical system test... cleared codes, - all problems fixed.
What I learned with this one is: These brand new vehicles NEED the correct voltage to function correctly. Even once it was started and charging at 14.7V, because of the bad battery, the vehicle was a paper weight and completely underivable, unusable and unmovable, until the new $425 battery was installed.
Preformed a charging system test. Verified the battery was NOT accepting a charge, and was reading about 90 CCA.
Replaced the under the drivers seat battery with an oem 750 CCA battery, preformed electrical system test... cleared codes, - all problems fixed.
What I learned with this one is: These brand new vehicles NEED the correct voltage to function correctly. Even once it was started and charging at 14.7V, because of the bad battery, the vehicle was a paper weight and completely underivable, unusable and unmovable, until the new $425 battery was installed.
From my research the k series trucks all use the same 20" total length hose with the same banjo and same threaded end, and all the c series trucks use the same 24" hose with the same banjo and the same threaded end. I was using the shop's Napa ProLink to look up parts and just happened to be looking at the C20 hoses when I placed the order. But yes, all C10-30 should fit K10-30 if lengthening is needed. Biggest difference is the C series hoses have a bracket attached to the middle of the hose that fastens it to the upper control arm, which of course there isn't a control arm on that vintage K series. Also the banjo is angled differently but you can position it to fit . Isn't the most professional looking outfit, but it'll get the job done on this old farm/woods beater.
Tossed on new rear pads on the Sportwagen. EBC Bluestuff NDX (higher torque Bluestuff). Used my Harbor Freight piston compression tool (the one that screws in the rear piston). Slilder pins are nice and smooth and I used a bit of brake caliper grease on on the tracks where the pads sit. These had 10K miles/10 mos/5 track days on them...they have life left but once they are at the pad packing plate thickness I don't feel like messing with it at the track - have 4 more days at VIR before end of the year. Got them at buybrakes.com.
I have a bad tire on the Winter car my Accent. It's Michelin Ice XI3. Bought from Discount Tire online but no longer available in my size, 185-70 14. It's loosing air through the tread block on the outside tread patch all around. Can't keep air in it and slime didn't help. Only two years from purchase and less than 6k miles. Discount tire says take it to a shop and if warranty they will prorate the 6 year warranty. Some how I think they will try to blame me....
So I had some Coopers M&S tires that were my summer tries stored in the shed. Been there 5 years. All still had about 18 lbs air in them and looked good. Got the backs on and Iwanted to look at my brakes in front. Pads OK but I want to pull the pins and regrease. Bleeder screw was rounded off on on side so I quit for the day....
So I had some Coopers M&S tires that were my summer tries stored in the shed. Been there 5 years. All still had about 18 lbs air in them and looked good. Got the backs on and Iwanted to look at my brakes in front. Pads OK but I want to pull the pins and regrease. Bleeder screw was rounded off on on side so I quit for the day....
Just finished up making a new flywheel for my Detroit 2-53. It came out of an industrial unit and need an automotive flywheel for the forklift. I eneded up joining the Detroit and Buda flywheels together. Here's the steps taken.
Finished the front brakes on my '08 Accent. OE bleeder screw was rusting away and must be some off Wentworth size now. I had an old spare. Bleed them good and greased up the pins. About a 1/4" pad left so I'll wait until spring to change them out. Sprayed a lot of the subframe and things with some Fluid Film. Did the annual spray undercoat over the rust on the exterior.