What are you working on today?

Got some practically new, yet very noisy Monroe strut mounts taken out and replaced with Mopar units, lubed with Energy Suspension Formula 5 . The haunted house door moaning noise is gone. Now I'm working on getting new fabric on the headliner. Of course I cracked it getting it out of the car, so JB Weld is hard at work right now shoring that up (under the bowl, being used to apply constant pressure). Busy day!
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Got some practically new, yet very noisy Monroe strut mounts taken out and replaced with Mopar units, lubed with Energy Suspension Formula 5 . The haunted house door moaning noise is gone. Now I'm working on getting new fabric on the headliner. Of course I cracked it getting it out of the car, so JB Weld is hard at work right now shoring that up (under the bowl, being used to apply constant pressure). Busy day!
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I wish I felt I could trust anything labeled Monroe anymore.....as it is it's like they're the Dorman of suspension products: ubiquitous, nearly impossible to avoid, and guaranteed to screw you :(
 
Yes, sitting here all day:) I was intention to clear the basement and I found silicon spray, liqui molly mos2 additive and can of ballistol spray- multipurpose. So I decide to use them, winter is coming, so I put in the Corollas engine 125 gr additive mos2 no need just not to stay at the basement. Than I spray all the rubber parts at the doors with silicon spray and the metal ones with ballistol. I clean up the basement finally:)
 
My fiancé's stepmom called and wanted me to put my scanner on my fiancé's dad's nephews 2012 Ford Expedition which started running really bad yesterday and turned on the CEL. Truck has the 5.4L on it with almost 157,000 miles on it.

Pulled codes and the relative ones to the issue were some cam sensor codes on bank 2 and misfires in cylinders 5,6,7 & 8. I started the truck and it ran horribly. You could tell it was misfiring and not long after the CEL started blinking indicating a hard misfire. It actually died a couple of times while at idle. I did a power balance test with the scanner and the cylinders that I mentioned before were all staying in the low position of the test and not moving.

Prior to me coming over, they had taken the truck to O'Reilly's to have the codes read and they ended up buying and replacing the cam sensor on bank 2 which of course didn't fix it and is why they called me. I told them it looked like they had a timing issue and that the phaser on that bank probably malfunctioned or the chain jumped a tooth or so. Timing issues are common on this engine once they get some miles on them. I didn't have any more time to do any more checking.

Does anyone else think that this is a timing issue?
 
Chasing a P0171 in an 08 Toyota Corolla. I'm at a dead end after replacing intake manifold gaskets a while ago and now resorted to throwing a MAF since a smoke test did not reveal any other leaks so far. Fuel trims are pegged positive with the exhaust reeking of fuel. Has a slight hesitation at startup too.
 
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Picked up a Kubota BX2350 with low compression this weekend in the Missouri Mountains. Absolutely stunning views. Took almost 3 hours to load mostly due to my incompetence. I've loaded plenty of non running cars. Most of the time was trying to move the front end loader so I could get it up a ramp, and no steering because its also hydraulic. After a few eureka moments, strapping the FEL to the ROPS, and then lifting the front end to adjust the front wheels got it loaded.

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Chasing a P0171 in an 08 Toyota Corolla. I'm at a dead end after replacing intake manifold gaskets a while ago and now resorted to throwing a MAF since a smoke test did not reveal any other leaks so far. Fuel trims are pegged positive with the exhaust reeking of fuel. Has a slight hesitation at startup too.
It's possible you have an internal vacuum leak.
 
Replaced the battery in the Forte. Put in an H5 Everstart Platinum AGM. This car was put into service in the Fall of 2020 and is almost exclusively short tripped so I wanted to go ahead and get a fresh one in it before winter. I could have probably charged the existing one to try to buy some more time but I'd much rather replace proactively on my own terms.
 
Got rid of the factory coil pack grounds on the Sportwagen in favor of a "coil grounding kit". The point of this is that the factory grounds use a double-nutted stud that holds the coil packs in place...however...this is a triangular stud and oftetn strips out over time/many plug changes. This set just removes those and placees the grounding wires separate to a body point. Slick. Just have to de-pin the connectors/re-pin the CGK. Studs are replaced by simple bolts. I went with the behind-the-battery grounding point vs. over behind the coolant reservoir.
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1998 Chevrolet Cheyenne 2500 2wd
Replaced idler and pitman arms

1993 Chevrolet S10 4.3 V6
Replaced radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, flushed block and heater core, changed oil
 
Chasing a P0171 in an 08 Toyota Corolla. I'm at a dead end after replacing intake manifold gaskets a while ago and now resorted to throwing a MAF since a smoke test did not reveal any other leaks so far. Fuel trims are pegged positive with the exhaust reeking of fuel. Has a slight hesitation at startup too.
  1. Exhaust leaks?
  2. Injectors restricted?(send to @Trav )
  3. Fuel pump weak?
Problems 2 and 3 were the issues on my 2AZ xB
It was vapor locking, stalling, running lean, etc
 
Some decent deals are to be had lately, at least with farm equipment. The closeby JD dealer network sold me this 60 inch Frontier Rotary Cutter for $400. They said the blades rub against the outer frame. Well duh, that doesnt scare me whatsoever since I'll be bashing it against limestone and hundreds of scrub trees myself soon enough.

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My fiancé's stepmom called and wanted me to put my scanner on my fiancé's dad's nephews 2012 Ford Expedition which started running really bad yesterday and turned on the CEL. Truck has the 5.4L on it with almost 157,000 miles on it.

Pulled codes and the relative ones to the issue were some cam sensor codes on bank 2 and misfires in cylinders 5,6,7 & 8. I started the truck and it ran horribly. You could tell it was misfiring and not long after the CEL started blinking indicating a hard misfire. It actually died a couple of times while at idle. I did a power balance test with the scanner and the cylinders that I mentioned before were all staying in the low position of the test and not moving.

Prior to me coming over, they had taken the truck to O'Reilly's to have the codes read and they ended up buying and replacing the cam sensor on bank 2 which of course didn't fix it and is why they called me. I told them it looked like they had a timing issue and that the phaser on that bank probably malfunctioned or the chain jumped a tooth or so. Timing issues are common on this engine once they get some miles on them. I didn't have any more time to do any more checking.

Does anyone else think that this is a timing issue?

What CMP sensor codes did it have? Correlation DTC's & a whole bank of misfiring cylinders is a good indicator that it's jumped time. Hopefully it's in otherwise good shape as they're expensive used & on backorder through Ford last I checked.
 
'96 Cherokee: my buddy reports it's running poorly, idling poorly and stumbling. When he got here the electric fan was running continuously which made suspicious of ECT sensor. Live data says -40C when dash gauge read ~190F.

Popped the hood and sure enough the ECT in the thermostat housing was unplugged. Plugged it in and all was well - live data returned to 184F and idle smoothed out. Vehicle belongs to my buddy's MIL and her boyfriend wrenches on it, but nothing the boyfriend does makes sense.

Then helped him do front brakes, both front u-joints and ball joints on right side. He happened to be installing zerks when I snapped a pic:
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I wish I felt I could trust anything labeled Monroe anymore.....as it is it's like they're the Dorman of suspension products: ubiquitous, nearly impossible to avoid, and guaranteed to screw you :(
I've never had an issue with Monroe parts. I'm more concerned with getting NOS stuff that's so old that it's questionable for use on my ~20 year old vehicles.
 
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