What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
Going to cut the lawn, and then weedeat and then spray for weeds.
Get some 3M underground spicing tape and cover it up. 3M C130
Well, I finally got the bolt out. I used a Carbide drill bit and cut off some of the bolt that was under the truck with a sawzall and metal blade. I also used a punch and hammer to finally drive the rest of it out. It took me about 3 hours. Tomorrow I will have to go buy a bolt and nut to replace it and then put the rest of the interior back in.
Worked on my brother's IDI bullnose Ford. He was complaining that it seemed like it was leaking more transmission fluid that usual... I had him start it up for me and found both steel cooling lines had been rubbing against a bracket for 30 plus years till they both were worn down to the point of pin hole leaks. Amazing that they both rubbed through at the same time. I pulled them off and cut them off at the leaks and added extra rubber line to keep him on the road until we can get new steel lines. Since there was no barb on the lines, I double clamped everything, but I'm nervous about him running it out of oil.
Finished up the install of a front receiver and homeowner Snowbear plow on an '08 F150. The plow actually comes with turnbuckle braces on either side of the receiver which I thought was a great idea, but they're designed for a hitch where the receiver tube bisects the cross beam.
The Curt is built with the receiver tube below the cross beam:
So I added rectangle tube on either side:
Turnbuckle braces now function:
The Curt is built with the receiver tube below the cross beam:
So I added rectangle tube on either side:
Turnbuckle braces now function:
Installed an aluminum oil filter housing and cooler in my niece’s Grand Caravan. Home stretch before she can use it. I want it to be functionally near perfection since she carts my youngest nephew around in it.
I have done this enough that it’s muscle memory now, and I had it in place by lunchtime. And I started late.
Put in coils and plugs since I had easy access. Those plugs that were in there were barely hanging on, from how they looked.
It ran like crud and it was initially due to the intake hose being slightly off.
Put it all back, and it gradually improved. I suspect I may have to disconnect the battery for a bit to get the throttle body to reset.
It has a steering angle sensor issue, and I suspect it’s related to the all new control arms, etc., that were installed. The alignment is off a touch, and with these they seem to be sensitive to a crooked steering wheel. Alignment scheduled for Tuesday.
Pics attached…
I have done this enough that it’s muscle memory now, and I had it in place by lunchtime. And I started late.
Put in coils and plugs since I had easy access. Those plugs that were in there were barely hanging on, from how they looked.
It ran like crud and it was initially due to the intake hose being slightly off.
Put it all back, and it gradually improved. I suspect I may have to disconnect the battery for a bit to get the throttle body to reset.
It has a steering angle sensor issue, and I suspect it’s related to the all new control arms, etc., that were installed. The alignment is off a touch, and with these they seem to be sensitive to a crooked steering wheel. Alignment scheduled for Tuesday.
Pics attached…
Attachments
Todays an easy day!
Never used Redline fuel cleaner before, but read pretty good things about it.
Never used Redline fuel cleaner before, but read pretty good things about it.
Oil change, followed by draining 2L CVT and refilling. Started on the tire rotation, taking all the brakes apart and applying anti seize. Both rear rims froze in place, along with both rotors. Freed up now, almost done, but dinner takes priority.
Oil change on a 2016 Fusion 2.0 EB
He went 1 year (to the day) and ~10k on Motorcraft 5w30
It looked dark, thin, and was at least 1qt low
This time, he got Total MC3 5w30/910s and a 6 month interval
Oil change on the 2001 Villager (62k), it's gone 205 miles since last year, so the oil drained was clean
4qts Total SL 5w30/Bosch filter
Dad's work van got the H9 mod for low beams instead of the bogus LEDs that were loosely installed
Need to get some H11s for the high beams, washer fluid, general fluid top off
Then I pulled the cabin filter
I believe by the date code and manufacturer, it is the factory part
2011 Grand Caravan with 220k+ on it
I pulled many acorns out of the blower motor, probably gonna have to drop it to clean it out
He's getting new wiper blades and CAF when the RockAuto delivery comes in the week
He went 1 year (to the day) and ~10k on Motorcraft 5w30
It looked dark, thin, and was at least 1qt low
This time, he got Total MC3 5w30/910s and a 6 month interval
Oil change on the 2001 Villager (62k), it's gone 205 miles since last year, so the oil drained was clean
4qts Total SL 5w30/Bosch filter
Dad's work van got the H9 mod for low beams instead of the bogus LEDs that were loosely installed
Need to get some H11s for the high beams, washer fluid, general fluid top off
Then I pulled the cabin filter
I believe by the date code and manufacturer, it is the factory part
2011 Grand Caravan with 220k+ on it
I pulled many acorns out of the blower motor, probably gonna have to drop it to clean it out
He's getting new wiper blades and CAF when the RockAuto delivery comes in the week
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I got to be a hero with the wife by fixing our LG front load washer. The drum suddenly had runout and it was melting the rubber door seal as it rubbed while spinning. I found a YT vid where he started off thinking bearings but it was the spider arm:
So I had ordered a new spider arm, bearing and seal kit, shock absorbers and door seal. Total was around $250 so it was a more affordable proposition than a new washer
The wife thought I was crazy to drag the machine to the shop but I knew there would otherwise be a dozen trips back and forth for tools. The older I get, I want to work smarter, not harder -- even if smarter takes longer. I also got the machine on my hydraulic cart so I could adjust the height --- no squatting to work at floor level!!
Being a tool junkie paid off as a couple years ago I bought to tool for the door seal spring on Amazon Warehouse Deals
I had to disconnect nine plugs just to get the control panel off. Pretty sure you can find EFI harnesses with fewer! Rant: appliances don't need to be this complicated
Once I finally got to the metal drum (which is basically 99% disassembly of the ENTIRE machine) I was a bit confused because my arm wasn't cracked and the bearings felt great. But upon closer inspection the arm was adding its own speed holes. It was also so tight in the drum I couldn't pry it out so I cut one arm to release the tension. Fortunately I stock aluminum-rated cutoff wheels:
New vs old, note the air gaps in the old were solid Al once upon a time:
So I had ordered a new spider arm, bearing and seal kit, shock absorbers and door seal. Total was around $250 so it was a more affordable proposition than a new washer
The wife thought I was crazy to drag the machine to the shop but I knew there would otherwise be a dozen trips back and forth for tools. The older I get, I want to work smarter, not harder -- even if smarter takes longer. I also got the machine on my hydraulic cart so I could adjust the height --- no squatting to work at floor level!!
Being a tool junkie paid off as a couple years ago I bought to tool for the door seal spring on Amazon Warehouse Deals
I had to disconnect nine plugs just to get the control panel off. Pretty sure you can find EFI harnesses with fewer! Rant: appliances don't need to be this complicated
New vs old, note the air gaps in the old were solid Al once upon a time:
Made hinges for our Blackstone griddle.
Changing flywheel bellhousing on a Volvo B8R engine. PITA job with engine in the vehicle
Clutch plate is about 17 inch if someone wondered, pressure plate and flywheel even larger.
2021 Ford Expedition “limited”
61k: rear rotors and pads. Nice gravy job on a chilly day
61k: rear rotors and pads. Nice gravy job on a chilly day