What are you working on today?

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Put 4 new tires on dads car. I hate steel wheels cause you have to use hammer on weights lol. Smashed my thumb and now have a blood blister. Also finished the Land Cruiser engine. Tomorrow I have to diagnose a front end roar on a Tundra sounds like a bearing but I want to make sure.
 
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Put 4 new tires on dads car. I hate steel wheels cause you have to use hammer on weights lol. Smashed my thumb and now have a blood blister. Also finished the Land Cruiser engine. Tomorrow I have to diagnose a front end roar on a Tundra sounds like a bearing but I want to make sure.
Hey on the tundra…

I had a 2006 and it made awful wheel bearing noise. It sounded like the front, and I’d seen some small amount of grease leak from it after mountainous towing. I figured it was the front and took the truck in for a new front bearing hub. They tried to tell me, they never see fronts fail on these, and it doesn’t make noise spinning in the air. I insisted.

the truck came back and the noise persisted. I couldn’t figure it out. It got worse fairly quickly. I finally jacked the drive axle off the ground and ran it in gear as I walked around. It was the rear, clearly. But inside the cab, it sounded like the front.

triple check….
 
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Put 4 new tires on dads car. I hate steel wheels cause you have to use hammer on weights lol. Smashed my thumb and now have a blood blister. Also finished the Land Cruiser engine. Tomorrow I have to diagnose a front end roar on a Tundra sounds like a bearing but I want to make sure.
I prefer clip ons rather than stick ons, it's quicker. It won't matter with those Uniwobbles anyways.
 
I really want to know what's in there! If you order these shafts today they're made in China -- actual blue box Motorcraft parts. I'm betting even in 2016 the driveshafts the factory was using were also built in China.

It was the slip yoke plug, I took it to my driveshaft guy & he said it wasn't worth the expense to fix it, Not wrong as I found a good one at a wreaking yard for $30.
He also said either the truck was wreaked thus forcing the slip yoke into the plug pushing it out or it was dropped right on the end of the yoke.

Not sure of the COO/COM?

The arrow points to were the originally went inside the DS.....


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It was the slip yoke plug, I took it to my driveshaft guy & he said it wasn't worth the expense to fix it, Not wrong as a found a good one at a wreaking yard for $30.
He also said either the truck was wreaked thus forcing the slip yoke into the plug pushing it out or it was dropped right on the end of the yoke.

Not sure of the COO/COM?

The arrow points to were the originally went inside the DS.....


5pysLPc.jpg

CgzeCIT.jpg
Alright! That reminds me of the slip yokes on TTB axleshafts on the RH side. If I have the diff out I delete the c-clip and put a spring in the slip yoke, but I beef up the plug with a disc (I think I've welded them in place before...can't remember) because the spring pushes on the plug
 
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Put 4 new tires on dads car. I hate steel wheels cause you have to use hammer on weights lol. Smashed my thumb and now have a blood blister. Also finished the Land Cruiser engine. Tomorrow I have to diagnose a front end roar on a Tundra sounds like a bearing but I want to make sure.

(y) Keep us informed on the performance of the fairly new ( https://www.uniroyaltires.com/homep...-tires-launches-tiger-paw-touring-all-season0 ) UNIROYAL TIGER PAW Touring A/S . H or V rated ?
 
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Got the rolling disappointment that is grandma's 2020 XT4 back from the dealership
Let's see what they accomplished with a 10 day stay in their care
  • Replace Infotainment display (warranty intermittently inop)
  • Replace Front brake pads (TSB for squeak)
  • Lube front strut bump stops (TSB for squeak)
  • Reprogram VPM (recall + inop cameras)
  • Replace camera cables (cameras inop)
  • Refinish both front wheels and replace one tire (78 year old driver 👵)
  • Reprogram ECM (TSB for intermittent no heat)
  • Reprogram TCM (because of my shifting complaint?)
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10 days in the XT5 loaner, no charge, out the door
I'm less indifferent to this dealer now, but they still kinda suck
I like to get my money's worth, but really like getting everything thrown at a car that can be under warranty
Whoever buys this 2020 XT4 with 14k miles CPO, you're welcome 🫡
 
Fixed the Tundra it ended up being a front bearing. Thank you meep for the advice about it could be the rear. What I did was checked for play first then had someone get in the car, raised it up and had them run it and accelerate so I could listen it ended up being in the right front though it did sound more on the left. Did a battery warranty on a 2016 RAV4 customer just bought the battery about a month ago came back on a tow truck with complaints of no start clicking noise and only starts with jump. They didn’t feel comfortable driving it worried it would die so they had it towed in. The bad part for them is they were at Walmart when it would not start that must suck come out with all your groceries and your car won’t start. They typically try and give warranty work to the hourly guys like me because nobody wants to do it because it doesn’t pay. I have no idea what that would have paid. I’m hourly so I don’t see or care what it pays lol. I get $2.50 for the battery anyway as I get to write it down for my bonus. Also my pen ran out of ink today while filling out the multipoint for the Tundra so I went the whole day writing with a crappy company pen lol. Luckily I have a new one ready to go for Monday. A nice Pilot G2 in blue. I prefer to write in blue to be different from everyone else.
 
Got the rolling disappointment that is grandma's 2020 XT4 back from the dealership
Let's see what they accomplished with a 10 day stay in their care
  • Replace Infotainment display (warranty intermittently inop)
  • Replace Front brake pads (TSB for squeak)
  • Lube front strut bump stops (TSB for squeak)
  • Reprogram VPM (recall + inop cameras)
  • Replace camera cables (cameras inop)
  • Refinish both front wheels and replace one tire (78 year old driver 👵)
  • Reprogram ECM (TSB for intermittent no heat)
  • Reprogram TCM (because of my shifting complaint?)
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10 days in the XT5 loaner, no charge, out the door
I'm less indifferent to this dealer now, but they still kinda suck
I like to get my money's worth, but really like getting everything thrown at a car that can be under warranty
Whoever buys this 2020 XT4 with 14k miles CPO, you're welcome 🫡
NOT EVEN 24 HOURS LATER :mad:
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Good job GM 🤨
Now I'm probably gonna have to wait another 2 months for loaner availability, and back it'll go 😞
 
“Rebuilt” the brake pedal in the 02 Silverado with a new pivot bushing and pedal pad. Cured the wobbly brake pedal.


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Did not take pics of the process since I had to fight the factory threadlocked bolt at the top and retrieve the pedal clip that went flying in the dash somewhere.

All on my back.

There’s a Rainman Ray video on this which is why I got flippity-floppity brake pedal syndrome.
 
'99 Ram 1500

Complaint was no heat. The hottest the truck would get on a test drive was 181, but mostly sat in the high 170s.

Replaced the t-stat and would like to take this opportunity to once again complain that Motorad took over Stant. For now this SuperStat part seems physically unchanged.
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I also flushed the heater core and did my best to flush the system which is full of stop leak (not me!!). I'm superstitious on these 2nd Gens and raise the filler neck above the heater core when refilling. I've tried a vacuum fill and honestly it doesn't seem any better.
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The jury's out on this repair....I had good heat for half of my test drive then lost it. Re-started later and heat is back (blend door is cable actuated in '99). So I'm thinking maybe still an air pocket somewhere. Seems to me a clog in the heater core wouldn't so quickly come and go??
 
'99 Ram 1500

Complaint was no heat. The hottest the truck would get on a test drive was 181, but mostly sat in the high 170s.

Replaced the t-stat and would like to take this opportunity to once again complain that Motorad took over Stant. For now this SuperStat part seems physically unchanged.
View attachment 142184
View attachment 142185

I also flushed the heater core and did my best to flush the system which is full of stop leak (not me!!). I'm superstitious on these 2nd Gens and raise the filler neck above the heater core when refilling. I've tried a vacuum fill and honestly it doesn't seem any better.
View attachment 142186
The jury's out on this repair....I had good heat for half of my test drive then lost it. Re-started later and heat is back (blend door is cable actuated in '99). So I'm thinking maybe still an air pocket somewhere. Seems to me a clog in the heater core wouldn't so quickly come and go??
I've got to go through the 00 Dakotas cooling system this summer. Heat is ok at higher rpm's but luke warm at idle. Also seems to get hot faster that I think it should . Just going to flush everything since it's 23'years old. Hope I don't need to take the dash apart.
 
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Done some maintenance on the old Camry today. It’s getting back to ready for the road. It keeps sucking the coolant dry so I filled the reservoir and radiator back up. We just replaced the water pump and got the serpentine belt back on finally so I’m guessing where it drained all the antifreeze out that it’s completely empty. We driven it but it hasn’t overheated or anything so that’s probably just what the issue is. I also cleaned the negative battery terminal and put protectant on both terminals. And installed a new set of wiper blades. We got the inspection the other day. We know the inspector pretty well and he just let the wipers go because he knows I’ll install them and we do all of our own work. If the coolant usage continues I’ll have to investigate more. But the water pump is not leaking anymore so that’s the good thing. The RTV is holding well. They don’t make a regular gasket for it. The reason you see the jar of anti seize in the picture is I had to retighten the battery hold down and I put some anti seize on it because they will snap if you aren’t careful lol. And yes that is vise grips holding the hood up. The strut is junk.
 
'99 Ram 1500

Complaint was no heat. The hottest the truck would get on a test drive was 181, but mostly sat in the high 170s.

Replaced the t-stat and would like to take this opportunity to once again complain that Motorad took over Stant. For now this SuperStat part seems physically unchanged.
View attachment 142184
View attachment 142185

I also flushed the heater core and did my best to flush the system which is full of stop leak (not me!!). I'm superstitious on these 2nd Gens and raise the filler neck above the heater core when refilling. I've tried a vacuum fill and honestly it doesn't seem any better.
View attachment 142186
The jury's out on this repair....I had good heat for half of my test drive then lost it. Re-started later and heat is back (blend door is cable actuated in '99). So I'm thinking maybe still an air pocket somewhere. Seems to me a clog in the heater core wouldn't so quickly come and go??
Never seen it on a Dodge, but I've come across several Ford's with 4.6/5.4 engines that electrolysis ate the water pump impellers off. Of course those simply had no heat. With a cable actuated blend door it shouldn't have heat/no heat condition like it might if it was motorized, but I suppose it's possible the door could be worn and moving between positions... seems unlikely. As for a clog, again my experience, but usually the core is either blocked or it's clear, not both.

Have you tried using the compound four letter word method on it yet?
 
Busy day.. made enough pancakes and bacon for most of the week. My 14 year old knocked a couple days off that. Changed the plugs in the Focus, weird color to them. Went to pull it yard and got another cushion for Dakota, that was way easy to change. Next is putting down some grass seed. Might take a nap after.

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Should go outside and shovel. I think the temps are now double digits, so it's ok to venture outside??? was like 8F when I woke up, brr.

Doing some Arduino programming, reminded that I prefer designing the boards over writing the code... but after finding the usual stupid mistakes, have something working now. Lots left to debug, but for a side work project, fun weekend fun, while I wait for spring to come.
 
Went up and grabbed the Jetta from grandmother and left the Subaru in case she needed to go somewhere. Had some time to check out the coolant leak.

Couldn't see anything under the water pump like I suspected and it appears someone was already there and replaced the pump. Shoot. Had to take out the battery and tray for a better look.

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What I thought was going to be an expensive fix, turned out to be really simple...

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As you can see from the staining, the little hose going to the transmission cooler is leaking. Didn't really leak that much sitting there, but after getting it hot after blowing out the cobwebs driving out the mountain there was several drips on her driveway. Got to stop by the dealer tomorrow for a drain plug and washer for the Subaru and since they're a VW dealer as well I'll order a new hose and both clamps. I could have redneck fixed it, but I don't want to really do that...

Also braved the wind gave it a good pressure wash and hand scrub before I returned it to her.
 
When I went hunting in the dash for the brake pedal clip I started to remove the obsolete OnStar modules in the 02 Silverado.
We came a long way to fitting GPS modules into a cellphone. Early 00's tech were monsters.
Had to look up a diagram for additional OnStar modules. The cellular unit was located behind the passenger side airbag which I just pulled the connectors out.

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When I went hunting in the dash for the brake pedal clip I started to remove the obsolete OnStar modules in the 02 Silverado.
We came a long way to fitting GPS modules into a cellphone. Early 00's tech were monsters.
Had to look up a diagram for additional OnStar modules. The cellular unit was located behind the passenger side airbag which I just pulled the connectors out.

View attachment 142384
Exactly what I did on our old '02 Silverado and '05 Yukon
 
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