What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Forgot to post before I left town for the weekend: Replaced the rear hatch struts on the roomies RX, found a pair WITH BRACKETS for $46 shipped from Amazon. The brackets were important, as the RH side were missing. Easy swap, I spent more time digging up M6 bolts for the brackets than I did installing the supports. Much to her delight, the power liftgate now works perfectly.
Only interesting job today was a 2001 Lexus GS300. Owner attempted to replace plugs himself, removed the throttle body to do so and broke the connector for the throttle motor. He attempted to connect the loose pins but hooked em up wrong. It was presented with a check engine light, no throttle response. I replaced the connector and made sure everything was in the right place. Afterwards the check engine light was still on but the fault changed from a throttle clutch fault to a motor circuit fault. Found that the M- driver in the engine controller had failed (was burned when I opened the module). A new module is over 2200 dollars from Lexus. We were able to source a used one and transfer the immobilizer information from the original to the replacement via EEPROM so that the car would start and run. On these older immobilizer systems, Toyota did not provide a provision for programming keys to an engine control module without having a master key that is programmed to the module, leaving working at the board level the only way to do this job with a used module.
Finished up the '56 today, Was having some voltage drop issues.....Upgrading the Alternator Charge Wire to 8 gauge & replacing some burnt/spread terminals at the Ignition Switch corrected the issue.
'55 & '56 Chevies don't use a Shunt circuit off the Starter Solenoid, The Shunt is built into the Ignition Switch which compounded the voltage drop symptoms of hard/no starts while hot. At times you'd let off the key back into the Run position & voltage would climb enough to spark a cylinder & kick the engine off.
MSD/Holley didn't do me any favors by having both fans kick on anytime the coolant temp reached threshold......Even with the engine not running. So if you try to start the engine HOT the fans are running while the engine is cranking. These engineers need to run this stuff more in real world situations!!
Most OEM ECM's don't run the cooling fans until engine RPM has stabilized, I thought of running the Fan Relays Ignition Coil Circuit off the isolated Ignition Run Circuit.....But I had to tie the Run & Shunt Circuits together for the Ignition Relay & Ignition Coil to receive 12vdc in the Crank & Run positions.
Aftermarket EFI has come a long way with the use of Wideband O2 AFR learning & easy set-up using a touchscreen interface....But they could be better implementing some OEM solutions that have been around for decades!
I say finished up, Still need to figure out the PCV....The Throttle Body only has one large vacuum port & it's needed for the Brake Booster. The owner contacted tech support & they said to Tee them together.....That's NOT happening!
*Solution #1....Install a Hydroboost, I like this because the brakes suck anyway.
*Solution #2....Install a Exhaust Evacuation System.....Not ideal with a O2 sensor in the mix.
'55 & '56 Chevies don't use a Shunt circuit off the Starter Solenoid, The Shunt is built into the Ignition Switch which compounded the voltage drop symptoms of hard/no starts while hot. At times you'd let off the key back into the Run position & voltage would climb enough to spark a cylinder & kick the engine off.
MSD/Holley didn't do me any favors by having both fans kick on anytime the coolant temp reached threshold......Even with the engine not running. So if you try to start the engine HOT the fans are running while the engine is cranking. These engineers need to run this stuff more in real world situations!!
Most OEM ECM's don't run the cooling fans until engine RPM has stabilized, I thought of running the Fan Relays Ignition Coil Circuit off the isolated Ignition Run Circuit.....But I had to tie the Run & Shunt Circuits together for the Ignition Relay & Ignition Coil to receive 12vdc in the Crank & Run positions.
Aftermarket EFI has come a long way with the use of Wideband O2 AFR learning & easy set-up using a touchscreen interface....But they could be better implementing some OEM solutions that have been around for decades!
I say finished up, Still need to figure out the PCV....The Throttle Body only has one large vacuum port & it's needed for the Brake Booster. The owner contacted tech support & they said to Tee them together.....That's NOT happening!
*Solution #1....Install a Hydroboost, I like this because the brakes suck anyway.
*Solution #2....Install a Exhaust Evacuation System.....Not ideal with a O2 sensor in the mix.
That is true. About 90% highway, a manual, and never any snow in Contra Costa County.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,216
Yesterday
1996 Ford Ranger
Rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, one drum, turned the other one
Today
2010 Ford F-150
Plugs, boots, 2 ignition coils, air filter and a serpentine belt
I'll likely not be open the rest of the week. Had about enough of this heat.
1996 Ford Ranger
Rear brake shoes, wheel cylinders, one drum, turned the other one
Today
2010 Ford F-150
Plugs, boots, 2 ignition coils, air filter and a serpentine belt
I'll likely not be open the rest of the week. Had about enough of this heat.
After a week on vacation, I was dreading coming back to the shop. Luckily, I was greeted with a relatively simple day. Lots of maintenance on a 2011 XC70 with the 3.0 TT, a quick fix of a Wrangler that had a defective plastic coolant temp sensor, and an attempt at replacing the AC condenser in a 2018 Chevy Trax. That one failed... turns out there's two different parts: Mexico or Korea built.. Just my luck... I was working on a Korean built unit. I checked every vendor in my rolodex... no one carries a condenser for a Korean model. Mexico? All day long and twice on Sunday.
Since I already had the old part out, I simply capped the exposed AC lines and reassembled the front end. Turns out, whatever vendor supplies GM with condensers for their Korean built Trax and Encore models are restricted to ONLY providing said part to GM direct. I'll be filing a labor claim with O'Reilly in regard to the labor i put in taking the front end apart only to find they sent the wrong part.
Since I already had the old part out, I simply capped the exposed AC lines and reassembled the front end. Turns out, whatever vendor supplies GM with condensers for their Korean built Trax and Encore models are restricted to ONLY providing said part to GM direct. I'll be filing a labor claim with O'Reilly in regard to the labor i put in taking the front end apart only to find they sent the wrong part.
Rear shocks on the f150. At sunset it was 93F in the shade? aside from sweat constantly pooling in my glasses, it was a good time with minimal surprises. Also slathered some grease over any threads I saw gathering rust while in there.
Heck of a day today: it was 88 degrees in the shop by 10am, with no shortage of work. Ended up replacing the compressor on a CR-V, the steering column module on a newer Taurus, and a few other odd's and end's. Booked out 10 hours before lunch, so I took it easy the rest of the day.
94 degrees inside, according to the 'stat when I left. Gotta love the midwest!
94 degrees inside, according to the 'stat when I left. Gotta love the midwest!
I installed a stinky slinky caddy on the travel trailer today. That's about as mechanical as I could muster in the 98 degree heat and 80% humidity.
Waiting on brakes for 2019 Escape. Front brakes and rotors. Hate that stupid caliper design btw. Why couldn’t they just used a simple design?
2021 Honda Passport oil change using HPL Premium Plus 0w20. Drivetrain was very smooth and much quieter after this sweet nectar went into the crankcase.
Customer just picked up 
2017 Ram 2500 4X4, 6.7L Cummins/68RFE, 133,xxx miles.
DTC P0871....Overdrive Pressure Switch Rationality was the main complaint/concern.
Customer said it would go into limp mode & set the DTC after about 20-25 miles, I immediately thought Worn Solenoid Switch Valve or a Warped Channel Plate, But I did my due diligence & checked the wiring & the Solenoid Pack Connector for fluid intrusion. Connector had a lot of fluid present. Cleaned the connector & solenoid pack real well & took the truck for a test drive......
About 27 miles in.....Trans downshifted out of 6th into 4th & P0871 set.
Got back to the shop & found no fluid in the connector, So the decision was made to replace the entire Valve Body & Solenoid Pack with a Mopar unit.
Did a Quick Learn via my scan tool & took it on a 50 mile test drive, No DTC's & shifts good for a 68RFE.
Customer also wanted Shocks & Front Brake, Bilstein 4600's, Power Stop Rotors & Mopar Pads went on. This is my first shock job on a Coil Sprung Ram.....The rear shocks are kind of a pita.
Called the customer with a total & to tell him it's ready...Oh yeah, My rear windows don't work. This is where things got interesting....
Started checking voltages at the window switches, Nothing made sense, Unplugged the switches & was able to manipulate it witch my Power Probe & some Jumpers & the windows work just fine.
Took the switches apart & found nothing physically wrong with them......
Maybe I'm not seeing the issue with the switch? Recorded the part number off the switch to price them out, Gave the parts guy the VIN & then gave him the Switch P/N......Wrong switches.....The ones in the truck are for a earlier model (2010).
Looked at a 2010 diagram & sure enough....FCA jumbled the circuits around. But the connector remained the same
The more I looked at the truck.....The front & rear door panels don't match, The customer just bought the truck so he has no idea what happened. Could've been a theft recovery & put back together with mismatched parts??
DTC P0871....Overdrive Pressure Switch Rationality was the main complaint/concern.
Customer said it would go into limp mode & set the DTC after about 20-25 miles, I immediately thought Worn Solenoid Switch Valve or a Warped Channel Plate, But I did my due diligence & checked the wiring & the Solenoid Pack Connector for fluid intrusion. Connector had a lot of fluid present. Cleaned the connector & solenoid pack real well & took the truck for a test drive......
About 27 miles in.....Trans downshifted out of 6th into 4th & P0871 set.
Got back to the shop & found no fluid in the connector, So the decision was made to replace the entire Valve Body & Solenoid Pack with a Mopar unit.
Did a Quick Learn via my scan tool & took it on a 50 mile test drive, No DTC's & shifts good for a 68RFE.
Customer also wanted Shocks & Front Brake, Bilstein 4600's, Power Stop Rotors & Mopar Pads went on. This is my first shock job on a Coil Sprung Ram.....The rear shocks are kind of a pita.
Called the customer with a total & to tell him it's ready...Oh yeah, My rear windows don't work. This is where things got interesting....
Started checking voltages at the window switches, Nothing made sense, Unplugged the switches & was able to manipulate it witch my Power Probe & some Jumpers & the windows work just fine.
Took the switches apart & found nothing physically wrong with them......
Maybe I'm not seeing the issue with the switch? Recorded the part number off the switch to price them out, Gave the parts guy the VIN & then gave him the Switch P/N......Wrong switches.....The ones in the truck are for a earlier model (2010).
Looked at a 2010 diagram & sure enough....FCA jumbled the circuits around. But the connector remained the same
The more I looked at the truck.....The front & rear door panels don't match, The customer just bought the truck so he has no idea what happened. Could've been a theft recovery & put back together with mismatched parts??
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
That switch would have angered me.2017 Ram 2500 4X4, 6.7L Cummins/68RFE, 133,xxx miles.
DTC P0871....Overdrive Pressure Switch Rationality was the main complaint/concern.
Customer said it would go into limp mode & set the DTC after about 20-25 miles, I immediately thought Worn Solenoid Switch Valve or a Warped Channel Plate, But I did my due diligence & checked the wiring & the Solenoid Pack Connector for fluid intrusion. Connector had a lot of fluid present. Cleaned the connector & solenoid pack real well & took the truck for a test drive......
About 27 miles in.....Trans downshifted out of 6th into 4th & P0871 set.
Got back to the shop & found no fluid in the connector, So the decision was made to replace the entire Valve Body & Solenoid Pack with a Mopar unit.
Did a Quick Learn via my scan tool & took it on a 50 mile test drive, No DTC's & shifts good for a 68RFE.
Customer also wanted Shocks & Front Brake, Bilstein 4600's, Power Stop Rotors & Mopar Pads went on. This is my first shock job on a Coil Sprung Ram.....The rear shocks are kind of a pita.
Called the customer with a total & to tell him it's ready...Oh yeah, My rear windows don't work. This is where things got interesting....
Started checking voltages at the window switches, Nothing made sense, Unplugged the switches & was able to manipulate it witch my Power Probe & some Jumpers & the windows work just fine.
Took the switches apart & found nothing physically wrong with them......
Maybe I'm not seeing the issue with the switch? Recorded the part number off the switch to price them out, Gave the parts guy the VIN & then gave him the Switch P/N......Wrong switches.....The ones in the truck are for a earlier model (2010).
Looked at a 2010 diagram & sure enough....FCA jumbled the circuits around. But the connector remained the same
The more I looked at the truck.....The front & rear door panels don't match, The customer just bought the truck so he has no idea what happened. Could've been a theft recovery & put back together with mismatched parts??
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Intake gasket and new radio in the Buick.
Ahhh the kia!
Went to change the cabin air filter and the glove compartment broke
new one on order from the bay.
I will be white lithium grease the hinges and latch so this does not happen again.
Apparently the handle internally broke so the glove compartment was stuck closed and the only way to open it was to break it.
but cabin air filter replacement was a success, forgot to take a picture of the filter but just imagine years worth of dust dirt Pineneedles and bugs lol
The filter was so full that the fan output was at half. Now just going down the road the air is coming through the vents so you don’t even need to turn on the fan.
Went to change the cabin air filter and the glove compartment broke
new one on order from the bay.I will be white lithium grease the hinges and latch so this does not happen again.
Apparently the handle internally broke so the glove compartment was stuck closed and the only way to open it was to break it.
but cabin air filter replacement was a success, forgot to take a picture of the filter but just imagine years worth of dust dirt Pineneedles and bugs lol The filter was so full that the fan output was at half. Now just going down the road the air is coming through the vents so you don’t even need to turn on the fan.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,216
Yesterday was brakes. Turned front rotors and replaced pads on a 2018 GMC Yukon XL, also changed the oil and air filter. Replaced rear rotors and pads on a 2003 Chevy Impala.
Today I tore down my 283, save for the cam and lifters. Lifters are stuck in the bores so they are soaking in penetrating oil. I'll get back to that later on.
Today I tore down my 283, save for the cam and lifters. Lifters are stuck in the bores so they are soaking in penetrating oil. I'll get back to that later on.