Trimmed the neighbors shrubs/trees as they come over the fence to my driveway, ran the string trimmer and mowed. Looked wistfully at the car soap and nah. Walked 4 miles to try to get some reasonable exercise. Repaired drywall and painted the repair. I need to get some of HER projects done too. Listened to two different series on the same 2 chapters of a popular book and compared the lessons.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
I tried my new TPMS tool on Project xB
The dash promptly had a stroke
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTR1xoYCq/?k=1
The dash promptly had a stroke
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTR1xoYCq/?k=1
Did you use a pan gasket or the super special Mopar RTV or something else? Just curious2017 Ram 2500 4X4, 6.7L Cummins/68RFE, 133,xxx miles.
DTC P0871....Overdrive Pressure Switch Rationality was the main complaint/concern.
Customer said it would go into limp mode & set the DTC after about 20-25 miles, I immediately thought Worn Solenoid Switch Valve or a Warped Channel Plate, But I did my due diligence & checked the wiring & the Solenoid Pack Connector for fluid intrusion. Connector had a lot of fluid present. Cleaned the connector & solenoid pack real well & took the truck for a test drive......
About 27 miles in.....Trans downshifted out of 6th into 4th & P0871 set.
Got back to the shop & found no fluid in the connector, So the decision was made to replace the entire Valve Body & Solenoid Pack with a Mopar unit.
Did a Quick Learn via my scan tool & took it on a 50 mile test drive, No DTC's & shifts good for a 68RFE.
Customer also wanted Shocks & Front Brake, Bilstein 4600's, Power Stop Rotors & Mopar Pads went on. This is my first shock job on a Coil Sprung Ram.....The rear shocks are kind of a pita.
Called the customer with a total & to tell him it's ready...Oh yeah, My rear windows don't work. This is where things got interesting....
Started checking voltages at the window switches, Nothing made sense, Unplugged the switches & was able to manipulate it witch my Power Probe & some Jumpers & the windows work just fine.
Took the switches apart & found nothing physically wrong with them......
Maybe I'm not seeing the issue with the switch? Recorded the part number off the switch to price them out, Gave the parts guy the VIN & then gave him the Switch P/N......Wrong switches.....The ones in the truck are for a earlier model (2010).
Looked at a 2010 diagram & sure enough....FCA jumbled the circuits around. But the connector remained the same
The more I looked at the truck.....The front & rear door panels don't match, The customer just bought the truck so he has no idea what happened. Could've been a theft recovery & put back together with mismatched parts??
Oil change on my Camry, because I'm tired of staring at the MAINT REQD light
I'm gonna try HPL engine cleaner, because why not
In there now is some 5.5k old M1 EP HM 5w30 and a M1 filter, that's now idle flushing with Liqui ProLine
In will go a bigger FL400s (from the smaller 910s), 1qt of HPL engine cleaner, and some various bottles of 5w30 I've got laying around that need to go
RGT 5w30, Maxlife 5w30, M1 5w30, I've got 1qt and 1/2qt bottles laying around, that all hopefully add up to a change
New mid-pipe and muffler for 2004 Sienna, got the stainless steel muffler off eBay for $200 with the tail pipe, had the mid-pipe from last summer otherwise I would have got that from eBay seller too in stainless steel, box say's Belleville, NJ. Had to cut old mid-pipe behind rear converter. It all seems to have fit together fine so far...I have 4 Rhino Ramps so getting it all up in the air high enough worked out fine, I thought I would not be able to drive up on all 4 at once, it strained a little, but also made the exhaust work a little more tolerable...
Then Dupont High Performance Lubricant for the Sienna sliding door hinges, I was going to replace the upper hinges but the Dupont worked so good I don't think I am going to need the replacement.
Then after I return from looking over the pawn shop inventory of car stereo's I have either the $79 Dual from Walmart or the $forgot but like $50 10" screen from eBay, first going to see if the 10" screen fits, doesn't seem to have anywhere to attach the mount so I got the Dual to install if the pawnshop doesn't have something cheaper...Attach the back so anyone else trying one can get the one with better mounting options; I'll also add the exhaust mid-pipe where I had to cutout the front, used the Hart angle grinder, hard to see but if you got out of the rust-belt you will once again appreciate that after looking at the Sienna underside.
Then Dupont High Performance Lubricant for the Sienna sliding door hinges, I was going to replace the upper hinges but the Dupont worked so good I don't think I am going to need the replacement.
Then after I return from looking over the pawn shop inventory of car stereo's I have either the $79 Dual from Walmart or the $forgot but like $50 10" screen from eBay, first going to see if the 10" screen fits, doesn't seem to have anywhere to attach the mount so I got the Dual to install if the pawnshop doesn't have something cheaper...Attach the back so anyone else trying one can get the one with better mounting options; I'll also add the exhaust mid-pipe where I had to cutout the front, used the Hart angle grinder, hard to see but if you got out of the rust-belt you will once again appreciate that after looking at the Sienna underside.
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Front rotors and pads on 2020 Traverse.
The Kia’s glove box door arrived and is installed. Took longer to clean it up then to install. 
Oil and filter change on a 2021 CR-V 1.5T, which includes a new drain plug gasket.
2000 Ford Excursion, 7.3L/4R100.
*Cruise Control inoperative, Pressure Switch at Master Cylinder leaking & blew both 2 amp in-line (Add-on) fuses.
2012 Toyota Camry, 2.5L/6 speed auto.
*Noise under dash while hitting bumps, Electric Power Steering Drive Coupler has all the plastic insulator coating broken off. Awaiting approval.
2003 Cadillac Escalade, 5.3L/4L60E.
*Leaky Transmission Lines, Cut off the Aluminum crimps & replaced the 2 rubber sections with Continental TOC hose & ear clamps.
*Serviced the Transmission (Pan drop, Filter, Maxlife ATF)
*Fan Clutch (Poor A/C performance at idle)
1973 Chevelle, 350/TH350.
*Ignition Control Module failing when HOT (Has a HEI conversion)
*The HEI needs to be Re-Curved & the Vacuum Advance limited as it rattles like hell on part throttle acceleration. 52 degrees total timing at 3000 RPM. Customer declined the re-curve/vacuum advance limit.....I plugged the Vacuum Advance so he doesn't destroy the engine.
*Cruise Control inoperative, Pressure Switch at Master Cylinder leaking & blew both 2 amp in-line (Add-on) fuses.
2012 Toyota Camry, 2.5L/6 speed auto.
*Noise under dash while hitting bumps, Electric Power Steering Drive Coupler has all the plastic insulator coating broken off. Awaiting approval.
2003 Cadillac Escalade, 5.3L/4L60E.
*Leaky Transmission Lines, Cut off the Aluminum crimps & replaced the 2 rubber sections with Continental TOC hose & ear clamps.
*Serviced the Transmission (Pan drop, Filter, Maxlife ATF)
*Fan Clutch (Poor A/C performance at idle)
1973 Chevelle, 350/TH350.
*Ignition Control Module failing when HOT (Has a HEI conversion)
*The HEI needs to be Re-Curved & the Vacuum Advance limited as it rattles like hell on part throttle acceleration. 52 degrees total timing at 3000 RPM. Customer declined the re-curve/vacuum advance limit.....I plugged the Vacuum Advance so he doesn't destroy the engine.
Fixed the drivers side window master switch spring on the Kia.
The spring for auto down / auto up was I thought broken, so when you push the window button down the button would stay down and you would have to manually pull button back up or risk burning out window motor.
I don’t have pictures because I did not plan on fixing it last night, but it was just as involved as you would imagine.
There was an honest 20 screws on the backside of the door panel I had to remove to even remove the master switch, and about 5 more on the front to even remove the door panel to get to the 20 other in the backside. Oh plus those one time use Clips
that hold the door panel to the door frame
The spring for the button was nowhere to be found, but nothing was broken, so I used a spring out of a old four cycle carburetor from a Weedwhacker…. And it worked better then factory!
The button has slightly more resistance, but nothing more than when new, and the button returns to the normal position after you depress it. Total cost to fix was cents, and one hour worth of my time.
A new genuine window master switch is $125
Pretty happy with the outcome.
The spring for auto down / auto up was I thought broken, so when you push the window button down the button would stay down and you would have to manually pull button back up or risk burning out window motor.
I don’t have pictures because I did not plan on fixing it last night, but it was just as involved as you would imagine.
There was an honest 20 screws on the backside of the door panel I had to remove to even remove the master switch, and about 5 more on the front to even remove the door panel to get to the 20 other in the backside. Oh plus those one time use Clips
that hold the door panel to the door frameThe spring for the button was nowhere to be found, but nothing was broken, so I used a spring out of a old four cycle carburetor from a Weedwhacker…. And it worked better then factory!
The button has slightly more resistance, but nothing more than when new, and the button returns to the normal position after you depress it. Total cost to fix was cents, and one hour worth of my time.
A new genuine window master switch is $125
Pretty happy with the outcome
.
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I hoard springs for reasons like this!Fixed the drivers side window master switch spring on the Kia.
The spring for auto down / auto up was I thought broken, so when you push the window button down the button would stay down and you would have to manually pull button back up or risk burning out window motor.
I don’t have pictures because I did not plan on fixing it last night, but it was just as involved as you would imagine.
There was an honest 20 screws on the backside of the door panel I had to remove to even remove the master switch, and about 5 more on the front to even remove the door panel to get to the 20 other in the backside. Oh plus those one time use Clips
The spring for the button was nowhere to be found, but nothing was broken, so I used a spring out of a old four cycle carburetor from a Weedwhacker…. And it worked better then factory!
The button has slightly more resistance, but nothing more than when new, and the button returns to the normal position after you depress it. Total cost to fix was cents, and one hour worth of my time.
A new genuine window master switch is $125
Pretty happy with the outcome
Rear rotors and pads on 2020 Toyota 4Runner
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,216
Monday I turned front rotors and replaced pads on a 2008 Chevy Silverado, replaced the oil pressure switch and screen, replaced the intake gaskets and changed the oil.
Today, turned front and rear rotors on a 2014 Chevy Equinox, replaced front and rear pads, replaced the air filter and changed the oil.
Today, turned front and rear rotors on a 2014 Chevy Equinox, replaced front and rear pads, replaced the air filter and changed the oil.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Practiced with this machine. It’s pretty confusing. I have to learn how to use it for the second part of the state inspection test it’s ridiculous but it’s what Virginia wants you to know despite no one uses it. I should of taken a before picture before I cleaned it off. Dirt was just caked on it lol. Mostly practiced state inspections today. And took care of my “sons” as the boss calls them lol. They can’t preform a simple oil change and tire rotation by themselves mostly because they lack proper tools. In my opinion if they don’t have tools they shouldn’t be working in a shop. Part of the reason is they use a two man system on the lube rack so it’s two people on a team one guy doing the paperwork and then the other doing the dirty work. When I done it I was always a paperwork guy I don’t desire to change oil in stupid stuff lol. I don’t know how I accomplish everything with my sons always hollering for me because they screwed something up, can’t get an oil filter off, or just plain lazy lol. Shop manager got tired of dealing with them and since I’m the technician trainer I get stuck dealing with it lol. They sat the paperwork in my box and messed up a placement of a ratchet. I gathered the whole shop together to explain to them that nothing in my box will be out of place and there certainly will not be any paperwork or dirty air filters sitting in the top either. They didn’t like me after the conversation but if you are going to use my stuff you are going to follow my rules and those are my rules. My 28 year old son is the worst about it lol
. Good thing it’s not real life son haha a 20 year old having a 28 year old something might be wrong there haha. He doesn’t have any tools he is fresh out of the military and my 18 year old work son has tools and is about $6,000 in debt with Snap-on and Matco but he doesn’t have any type of oil changing tools most of his money went to a box or stupid stuff lol.
That headlight ainer will benefit you down the road. It’s not stupid or confusing either. When you see body shop cars come to you with one headlight pointing way upwards and other pointing at the floor you will learn. Every state that does inspections knows how to aim and check headlights. Just saying, you will get hang of it. States make people check lights and do this for SAFETY! So, don’t blame the state of VAView attachment 105776
Practiced with this machine. It’s pretty confusing. I have to learn how to use it for the second part of the state inspection test it’s ridiculous but it’s what Virginia wants you to know despite no one uses it. I should of taken a before picture before I cleaned it off. Dirt was just caked on it lol. Mostly practiced state inspections today. And took care of my “sons” as the boss calls them lol. They can’t preform a simple oil change and tire rotation by themselves mostly because they lack proper tools. In my opinion if they don’t have tools they shouldn’t be working in a shop. Part of the reason is they use a two man system on the lube rack so it’s two people on a team one guy doing the paperwork and then the other doing the dirty work. When I done it I was always a paperwork guy I don’t desire to change oil in stupid stuff lol. I don’t know how I accomplish everything with my sons always hollering for me because they screwed something up, can’t get an oil filter off, or just plain lazy lol. Shop manager got tired of dealing with them and since I’m the technician trainer I get stuck dealing with it lol. They sat the paperwork in my box and messed up a placement of a ratchet. I gathered the whole shop together to explain to them that nothing in my box will be out of place and there certainly will not be any paperwork or dirty air filters sitting in the top either. They didn’t like me after the conversation but if you are going to use my stuff you are going to follow my rules and those are my rules. My 28 year old son is the worst about it lol