What are you working on today?

Finished her up.....

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Fixing two broken wires in the throttle by wire system on my son's 2010 HD touring bike. They were broken right where the harness went through the P-Clamp attached to the neck. Visually the wires looked fine, but the conductors were broken under the insulation. Symptoms were intermittent throttle blips and going into limp mode. Also had a few codes set. The system uses a two channel system, one wire from each channel was broken, so the system didn't know what to do. The P-Clamps are now gone since they have been known to cause wire breakage.
 
Yesterday changed the oil in the 2004 Camry and 2008 Escape. Also was able to track down at least part of the oil leak on the Escape. The oil pan is leaking in a few spots and on the 3.0 it is dripping right down to the exhaust so I will be doing a pan gasket when it gets warmer. It’s at least part of it. I’m going to check the timing cover next as that could also be part of it that will be a lot harder job but I can do it. But how I determined the pan to be the cause is cleaned it really good with degreaser and brake cleaner and put oil in it and got underneath and watched it leak from the pan. What leads me to believe the timing cover could also be the cause is because of how much oil is all over everything and how common it is for these engines.

Today will change the oil in the 1989 Mazda B2200. Hasn’t been changed since April 2020 because I don’t really drive it anymore as much as I should. Also might pick up a battery for the 1994 Econoline to see if the coolant temperature sensor is working properly now that it’s replaced. I want to get an Interstate battery but dad is insisting I get the cheapest one until we see if that fixes the issues. I’m like I’d rather buy one now and have it last 14 years like the last one did rather than have to replace it next year or less. But whatever I might pick up a Everstart from Walmart then I will make him buy the next one when that one fails in a few months.
 
Put a new water pump and serpentine belt on the 2012 Ford transit connect. Wasnt a bad job at all. Hard part was getting the old pump to let loose of the block. Seeing how it was the original pump at 190k miles let's just say it was seated in there 😆
 
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Well planned on changing the oil in the 1989 Mazda B2200 but the battery crapped out on me. It’s 8 years old so I can’t complain too much. Nothing beats the Interstate one we had in our van that lasted 14 years though. I’ll be putting another Interstate back in both of them as they both need batteries. Have to wait till tomorrow so I can order through work and get a discount. Also started up the 1994 Econoline and the thing is still running wide open so it beats me I guess I’ll be installing a new computer in it as I read the capacitors often blow up in the computers on these and cause a lot of idle problems. Was really bummed the Coolant Temperature Sensor and everything else we tried didn’t work. Unless there is some trick to it. I love my big blue van but haven’t got to drive it since 2019 because of this issue. The thing is so loud when it starts up that the neighbors come outside because they thought something was going on lol.
 
Have you checked for broken wires at the IAC Connector?

Testing the IAC circuits.....
*One of the wires will be a 12vdc power supply from the PCM
*The other is the Control Circuit from the PCM.
*Unplug the IAC to determine which is which (KOEO)....One will/should have 12vdc.
*Plug the IAC connector back in.
*Back Probe the Control Circuit with a multimeter set to the DCV scale & the COM lead hooked to ground.
*The IAC is controlled via a PWM signal or "Duty Cycle".

*With the engine running....The voltage should be lower than 12vdc, 6vdc will be roughly 50% duty cycle.
*If it stays at 12vdc.....You either have a Open Control Circuit or the PCM is faulty.
*If the Control Circuit stays Low/Zero Volts.....Suspect a short to ground in the Control Circuit.
 
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Added a CHMSL to my oldest Rover. Tired of close calls and most drivers expect a brake light smack in front of them. I am now adding them to all of my old fleet except the TR6 as it is almost completely as it left the factory....it got a good, bright set of blinking LED tail/brake bulbs. While mostly stock, this is a driver.

Bit of a challenge to find a good CHMSL for a flat rear window; the ones I saw for truck caps weren't up to my quality wants. Finally found this at a VW specialty shop, fits Microbus & Vanagons. Nice unit. The wiring is my attempt at looking professional....finally found a proper grommet, next step.
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Adjusting brakes, replacing ammeter and checking generator output on a 1956 600 Ford tractor. Generator is weak so I’m gonna pull it and the starter later on for a rebuild. Gonna clean the carburetor and replace the float too as it’s leaked fuel when sitting for the past 5 years if the fuel isn’t shut off.
 
Finished up last 6 Honda PDI exams. Then ordered some brakes, ordered some wipers and few batteries. Then went home and changed oil on girlfriends Ram truck.
 
Changing the fuel filters on a Cummins ISL9 while waiting for a Cummins tech to clear the emissions hard trouble codes.
 
clinebarger said:
Have you checked for broken wires at the IAC Connector?

Testing the IAC circuits.....
*One of the wires will be a 12vdc power supply from the PCM
*The other is the Control Circuit from the PCM.
*Unplug the IAC to determine which is which (KOEO)....One will/should have 12vdc.
*Plug the IAC connector back in.
*Back Probe the Control Circuit with a multimeter set to the DCV scale & the COM lead hooked to ground.
*The IAC is controlled via a PWM signal or "Duty Cycle".

*With the engine running....The voltage should be lower than 12vdc, 6vdc will be roughly 50% duty cycle.
*If it stays at 12vdc.....You either have a Open Control Circuit or the PCM is faulty.
*If the Control Circuit stays Low/Zero Volts.....Suspect a short to ground in the Control Circuit.
Click to expand...
That is just what I needed. Thanks.There didn’t appear to be any broken ones when I took the connection off the IAC when I replaced it a few months ago. This will be a learning experience for sure because I am not too good with electrical stuff. We are scared to have it running too long but if it will help with diagnosis then it should be ok. It hasn’t run more than 10 seconds at a time since this issue started.
 
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