Words were said, that tensioner was being difficult. This chain is alot tighter so maybe it’ll be worth it. Now to put it back together and figure out how to change the pan gasket without a hoist.
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Words may have been said, but just so long as no blood was shed.
A little blood was shed… I got a trait from my gpa where I look at a project and start bleeding
Another shelf in progress
Note that photo bomber
Note that photo bomber
From a few days ago:
2019 CR-V 1.5T with 57K. Replaced a seeping valve cover gasket and adjusted the valve clearance. Also performed an oil change, tire rotation and CVT drain and refill.
1-2 valves on every cylinder benefitted from a small adjustment, engine was noticeably more responsive after the service.
2019 CR-V 1.5T with 57K. Replaced a seeping valve cover gasket and adjusted the valve clearance. Also performed an oil change, tire rotation and CVT drain and refill.
1-2 valves on every cylinder benefitted from a small adjustment, engine was noticeably more responsive after the service.
Earlier today:
Mid 2000’s Murano: Transfer Case drain and refill. Owner provided the Pennzoil 80W90. I smeared some Permatex Ultra Black RTV onto both plugs per FSM instructions. Sorry, no pics.
2008 Eclipse: replaced starter. Per FSM instructions, I moved the ATF cooler, ATF cooler bracket, airbox and ECM bracket in order to gain access to the starter. YouTube mechanics recommended exhaust manifold removal, which would have been the smarter route.
Mid 2000’s Murano: Transfer Case drain and refill. Owner provided the Pennzoil 80W90. I smeared some Permatex Ultra Black RTV onto both plugs per FSM instructions. Sorry, no pics.
2008 Eclipse: replaced starter. Per FSM instructions, I moved the ATF cooler, ATF cooler bracket, airbox and ECM bracket in order to gain access to the starter. YouTube mechanics recommended exhaust manifold removal, which would have been the smarter route.
Jack up the engine via the oil pan (Floor jack & a piece of wood), Block the engine up using some wooden blocks.
I have performed every service on this car since new. With the exception of a single 6500 mi interval, the engines sees 5K intervals with Mobil 1 EP or HPL.Yeah, but what kind of oil did you use?
Nice valve train you've got there.
Last edited:
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Yesterday I went with a neighbor to look at a truck he wanted to buy. It's a 15 F-150 5.0 with about 140k on the clock.
Light body damage on the passenger rear door (extended cab) and cab corner, codes for variable intake runner stuck open/the runner flap noise that sounds like a connecting rod trying to get some air...needs an intake manifold, and heater hoses that are looking for an excuse to blow ...but overall it drove out nicely, has cold ac and has nearly new tires on it. He bought the truck and is having it towed to my house per my advisement. He's going to source an intake online and the local O'Reilly's has the heater hoses in stock. I'll work on it next week sometime.
Light body damage on the passenger rear door (extended cab) and cab corner, codes for variable intake runner stuck open/the runner flap noise that sounds like a connecting rod trying to get some air...needs an intake manifold, and heater hoses that are looking for an excuse to blow ...but overall it drove out nicely, has cold ac and has nearly new tires on it. He bought the truck and is having it towed to my house per my advisement. He's going to source an intake online and the local O'Reilly's has the heater hoses in stock. I'll work on it next week sometime.
Also I have no idea on the Dakota but on a 318 in a ZJ I built a special (in more than one meaning of the word) foot to clear the steering and reach in to the pan. I imagine with IFS this won't be an issue?
Here if necessary:
Post in thread 'What are you working on today?' https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/what-are-you-working-on-today.331303/post-6983373
I was totally joking. It looks clean enough to eat off
2015 Dodge Journey with 181k on the 3.6: did some "stuff" with, um, spark plug fouling stuff.
I've never even touched a Journey but it's kinda nice if I wanted a kid hauler that's kinda metrosexual and gender ambiguous. The 3.6 motivates it quite well and cargo area is huge.
Oddly the oil cooler valley was dry, so it's probably been done before.
Alas, it suffers from Dodge's white trash styling -- and I identify as white trash so that's saying something! At 181k the transmission is not thrilled about shifting under load, although it does it.
I guess these were kinda meant to compete with Highlanders but of course the Toyota quality isn't here (not that I'd be caught dead in a Highlander either
)
I'm not going to drive it enough to set all the monitors but after adjusting a bit for a P0159 I think it's going to be ok (fingers crossed)
I've never even touched a Journey but it's kinda nice if I wanted a kid hauler that's kinda metrosexual and gender ambiguous. The 3.6 motivates it quite well and cargo area is huge.
Oddly the oil cooler valley was dry, so it's probably been done before.
Alas, it suffers from Dodge's white trash styling -- and I identify as white trash so that's saying something! At 181k the transmission is not thrilled about shifting under load, although it does it.
I guess these were kinda meant to compete with Highlanders but of course the Toyota quality isn't here (not that I'd be caught dead in a Highlander either
)I'm not going to drive it enough to set all the monitors but after adjusting a bit for a P0159 I think it's going to be ok (fingers crossed)
The dreaded Subaru rear wheel bearings….
Maybe we need to take up a BITOG collection so you can at least pour yourself a small concrete pad! Are you doing this on grass/gravel?? I'm simultaneously abhorred and impressed!
Jack stands over dirt? That nearly killed me years ago - I was in high school and the metal ramp started to sink in a corner. Fortunate my eye caught the first motion and I rolled out. Once the one corner sunk, the ramp folded and the car came down. I was ok. At least put some plywood under it for your safety!
Productive day, today: my Copart Seville got a fresh set of 41-950 plugs to replace the 30 year old, factory-installed 41-929's. Along with the plugs, I threw on a set of wholesale closeout Prestolite plug wires that cost me a whopping $8.42. The box had a Honeywell copyright date of 2003, so they'd been sitting on a shelf for a while. The fitment was excellent, I have no complaints for the price.
Say what you will about the Northstar, but I'm of the opinion that servicing them is much easier than people make it out to be. I didn't even bother to remove the strut brace.
I also installed a used ignition module/coil pack assembly that I picked up on eBay, I'm chasing a P083 - 24x reference signal code and I was hoping it was just a dead module. Unfortunately, the code immediately returned on startup. I pulled out the service manual and accessed the ECM, followed the flow chart, and was able to verify that I do appear to be getting a signal from the ICM to the ECM. I already sourced a reman. ECM for $43 shipped, hopefully that will be the end of it. On the bright side, I now have a known-good ICM and coils to keep as a back-up, these modules haven't been made new in quite a while and the price on used is only going up. I also feel better knowing the module I installed has a new slather of thermal paste.
Our 2006 Kia Spectra was next on the victim list. It received a $97/pair of eBay front strut assemblies (that were surprisingly well made) along with Ultra Power sway bar links, an oil change (Fram Extra Guard / ST 5w30 FS), a belt adjustment to cure a cold start squeak, and new pads/rotors all around. Pads and rotors were all closeouts: Auto Extra/Durago rotors, Pro Line ceramic front pads, and CarQuest Platinum semi-metallic rear pads.
Say what you will about the Northstar, but I'm of the opinion that servicing them is much easier than people make it out to be. I didn't even bother to remove the strut brace.
I also installed a used ignition module/coil pack assembly that I picked up on eBay, I'm chasing a P083 - 24x reference signal code and I was hoping it was just a dead module. Unfortunately, the code immediately returned on startup. I pulled out the service manual and accessed the ECM, followed the flow chart, and was able to verify that I do appear to be getting a signal from the ICM to the ECM. I already sourced a reman. ECM for $43 shipped, hopefully that will be the end of it. On the bright side, I now have a known-good ICM and coils to keep as a back-up, these modules haven't been made new in quite a while and the price on used is only going up. I also feel better knowing the module I installed has a new slather of thermal paste.
Our 2006 Kia Spectra was next on the victim list. It received a $97/pair of eBay front strut assemblies (that were surprisingly well made) along with Ultra Power sway bar links, an oil change (Fram Extra Guard / ST 5w30 FS), a belt adjustment to cure a cold start squeak, and new pads/rotors all around. Pads and rotors were all closeouts: Auto Extra/Durago rotors, Pro Line ceramic front pads, and CarQuest Platinum semi-metallic rear pads.