What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
Finally, both rear shocks I ordered from Dodge dealer showed up for a 20’ Charger. Ordered them two weeks ago 
2003 Toyota Rav4 with only 68,000 miles on her.
Head unit with A/C, heat controls, hazard lights etc.
The one in it had an A/C button that didn’t stay locked in when you pushed it, hazard light button didn’t work, etc. The one off of eBay had everything working except the clock and the face and buttons were wore out and ugly.
It’s too nice of a rig to let little things like that take away from it so I built one that has everything working from the two of them.
I basically took both of them apart and got the board with the working clock out of one and put it in the one with the working buttons. Then I put the rebuilt unit into the nicer of the two face plates along with the knobs.
Head unit with A/C, heat controls, hazard lights etc.
The one in it had an A/C button that didn’t stay locked in when you pushed it, hazard light button didn’t work, etc. The one off of eBay had everything working except the clock and the face and buttons were wore out and ugly.
It’s too nice of a rig to let little things like that take away from it so I built one that has everything working from the two of them.
I basically took both of them apart and got the board with the working clock out of one and put it in the one with the working buttons. Then I put the rebuilt unit into the nicer of the two face plates along with the knobs.
Attachments
Nice job...you must be retired??
No, far from it actually. We have this Rav4 on the car lot and I just wanted everything to work as it should being such a nice little car with low mileage. It really didn't take too long to do this.Nice job...you must be retired??
That would take me foreverNo, far from it actually. We have this Rav4 on the car lot and I just wanted everything to work as it should being such a nice little car with low mileage. It really didn't take too long to do this.
Good for you! Those trout aren't going to catch themselves.
'92 Vigor needed things done on it that requires removal of the engine or I.M. I took it to the mechanic for the long list below:
3/12/21
Job01 check engine light comes on labor: $525.00
(2) knock sensors $591.04
Job02 exhaust heat shield rattle labor: $62.50
Job03 check engine performance labor: $75.00
(got smog check, plus go-back for timing)
Job04 check/set timing labor: $125.00
Job05 oil pressure sender leaking labor: $287.50
Job06 vacuum bypass control solenoid valve labor: $50.00
Job07 "castering" at freeway speeds labor: $0.
3/27/21
Job0l shaking at freeway speeds labor: $375.00
Job02 broken heat shield bracket labor: $625.00
replace cracked ex. manifold
Job03 exhaust b pipe hits the body labor: $125.00
6/5/21
Job0l hot oil smell after driving labor: $2,037.50
customer states hot oil smell after driving. say leaking clear fluid from the right center
engine area when parked. says checked fluid levels, says power steering fluid was -6 oz
low & engine oil was a 1 1/2 quarts low (normal oil consumption between 5k miles oil
changes per customer}. says right inner c/v joint has oily/dirty appearance. says feels
primary leak is power steering fluid.
we found oil leaking from both the front and rear of the engine. we removed the engine in
order to replace front and rear seals and reseal the oil pan.
1) engine oil pump,
2) rear main seal & cover,
3) rear cover galley plate,
3) cam seal,
4) distributor O-ring,
5) oil pan
Job02 replaced left differential labor: $312.50
seal and crossover tube. also replaced transmission front torque converter seal.
many of the O-rings are no longer available. we had to match up with generic american O-rings.
Job03 distributor O-ring seeping labor: $50.00
replaced O-rings
Job04 engine air filter is dirty labor: $0.00
replaced engine air filter, no labor charge.
Job05 replaced starter motor per labor: $62.50
customers request.
Job06 both front lower ball joint labor: $50.00
boots torn. replaced both boots.
3/12/21
Job01 check engine light comes on labor: $525.00
(2) knock sensors $591.04
Job02 exhaust heat shield rattle labor: $62.50
Job03 check engine performance labor: $75.00
(got smog check, plus go-back for timing)
Job04 check/set timing labor: $125.00
Job05 oil pressure sender leaking labor: $287.50
Job06 vacuum bypass control solenoid valve labor: $50.00
Job07 "castering" at freeway speeds labor: $0.
3/27/21
Job0l shaking at freeway speeds labor: $375.00
Job02 broken heat shield bracket labor: $625.00
replace cracked ex. manifold
Job03 exhaust b pipe hits the body labor: $125.00
6/5/21
Job0l hot oil smell after driving labor: $2,037.50
customer states hot oil smell after driving. say leaking clear fluid from the right center
engine area when parked. says checked fluid levels, says power steering fluid was -6 oz
low & engine oil was a 1 1/2 quarts low (normal oil consumption between 5k miles oil
changes per customer}. says right inner c/v joint has oily/dirty appearance. says feels
primary leak is power steering fluid.
we found oil leaking from both the front and rear of the engine. we removed the engine in
order to replace front and rear seals and reseal the oil pan.
1) engine oil pump,
2) rear main seal & cover,
3) rear cover galley plate,
3) cam seal,
4) distributor O-ring,
5) oil pan
Job02 replaced left differential labor: $312.50
seal and crossover tube. also replaced transmission front torque converter seal.
many of the O-rings are no longer available. we had to match up with generic american O-rings.
Job03 distributor O-ring seeping labor: $50.00
replaced O-rings
Job04 engine air filter is dirty labor: $0.00
replaced engine air filter, no labor charge.
Job05 replaced starter motor per labor: $62.50
customers request.
Job06 both front lower ball joint labor: $50.00
boots torn. replaced both boots.
Recently - the neighbor’s Prius needed a inverter coolant pump but they bought a Dorman one, against my suggestion of OEM. Oh well, at least I know how to do it again.
no car stuff recently. But I did tend to the garden and bought a $50 pair of Felco shears.
no car stuff recently. But I did tend to the garden and bought a $50 pair of Felco shears.
Just started to mess around with the p0111 code on my 2017 3500 6.7. I switched my monitor to show inlet air temperature, which was close to coolant temp after a long cold soak, engine off, key on.
Driving it was mirroring ambient and fluctuated plus or minus a few degrees while slowing and stopped at idle. Then it cleared itself and temperatures looked good.
Today it started fine but 40km into our drive she popped back on. 30c ambient. As low as 21c IAT on the highway and slowing it went way up, anywhere from 40c to 65c. Then holds 60c at idle and close to ambient driving.
I'm going to remove the air box and see if the ducting behind the fender is crimped or plugged and also remove the active air diverter to allow air from in front of the rad and see what numbers I get.
Driving it was mirroring ambient and fluctuated plus or minus a few degrees while slowing and stopped at idle. Then it cleared itself and temperatures looked good.
Today it started fine but 40km into our drive she popped back on. 30c ambient. As low as 21c IAT on the highway and slowing it went way up, anywhere from 40c to 65c. Then holds 60c at idle and close to ambient driving.
I'm going to remove the air box and see if the ducting behind the fender is crimped or plugged and also remove the active air diverter to allow air from in front of the rad and see what numbers I get.
Put a new thermostat , coolant temperature sensor and headlights in a 2008 Chevy Cobalt with 155k on it. I got the car with 20k. Coolant temperature gauge quit working so I changed the thermostat and sensor. The headlight was just faded and just bought a new set.
Finally finished the rudder port on the old boat..... The ~40 yr old boat was well maintained except for a few items where someone had a fetish for cheap red RTV. RTV is great for suitable applications, but sealing running gear especially BELOW the waterline is clearly not one of them. To make it more fun, silicone leaves a film that is difficult to remove and hinders the bonding of other adhesives. Fun times with solvents and sanding. Luckily the wood and 'glass are sound. Bilge work on antiques is messy and nasty enough without this complication, but it is finally done using a proper sealant.
Put this Ford accessory remote start in my project 2010 Milan while I wait for the registration in the mail
Pulled the A pillar trim, gonna leave it off for when the dashcam arrives
I thought that I would dive into some “light” detailing of a Mitsubishi Outlander and Kia Sportage for our lot.
This is the only way to get some vehicles purchased at sales truly clean. It baffles me as to how some people drive around in filth. 
As a two man wrecking crew, we have mastered tearing these cars down and doing a thorough cleaning.
Mechanic, detail, sales, office work,…we do it all. It’s never a dull moment down here.
This is the only way to get some vehicles purchased at sales truly clean. It baffles me as to how some people drive around in filth. As a two man wrecking crew, we have mastered tearing these cars down and doing a thorough cleaning.
Mechanic, detail, sales, office work,…we do it all. It’s never a dull moment down here.
