What are you working on today?

[AutoMechanic]

I was just going to suggest what your dad suggested. I'm not normally one to suggest starter fluid, but that sprayed in the intake may work better than gas too. If you've got spark, it really does sound like it isn't getting fuel.

Yeah I used some starting fluid and raw gas down in the carburetor as well still just crank and crank. The fuel pump is mechanical and I took both the output line off and fuel sprayed out both when cranked so that tells me it’s working. I’m wondering if maybe the regulator or something has gone bad. I did notice the flap on the carburetor isn’t closing when the gas pedal is released and I think it’s supposed too. I’d hate to buy a new carburetor and that not be the issue though.

 

[spasm3]

Has it ever run for you? Jumped timing chain?

 

[AutoMechanic]

Has it ever run for you? Jumped timing chain?

Nope hasn’t started up yet. It is a timing belt engine. Appears to be lined up with the marks.

 

[spasm3]

Nope hasn’t started up yet. It is a timing belt engine. Appears to be lined up with the marks.

what engine is this?

 

[AutoMechanic]

what engine is this?

Mazda 2.2 I4

 

[spasm3]

Do you have a timing light? I'd throw that on and see if the coil has enough umph to spark under compression. Double check the condition of the cap and rotor.

 

[Breanna]

You don't know someone who has a wheel dolly?
Just lift the offending wheel, put the dolly under it, drop it down, and roll it into your driveway.

 

[OVERKILL]

Nope hasn’t started up yet. It is a timing belt engine. Appears to be lined up with the marks.

Is it possible there's something blocking the intake inside, like a mouse nest?

 

[AutoMechanic]

Is it possible there's something blocking the intake inside, like a mouse nest?

Possibly for sure. He told me after we loaded it up and it was paid for that he dug it out of the weeds behind his garage.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Do you have a timing light? I'd throw that on and see if the coil has enough umph to spark under compression. Double check the condition of the cap and rotor.

Yeah I’ve got a timing light. I will definitely give that a try. I haven’t checked the condition of the new ones he installed yet the old ones didn’t look to bad but he thought it was the problem so he replaced them.

 

[AutoMechanic]

You don't know someone who has a wheel dolly?
Just lift the offending wheel, put the dolly under it, drop it down, and roll it into your driveway.

I do but once that hits the dip into my driveway and gets on the gravel it’s probably not going anywhere. Both front wheels are the problem.

 

[Red Crow]

I do but once that hits the dip into my driveway and gets on the gravel it’s probably not going anywhere. Both front wheels are the problem.

Can you turn the front wheels left and then right, to access the bleeders. Would keep you from having to remove the wheels in the street.

 

[AutoMechanic]

Can you turn the front wheels left and then right, to access the bleeders. Would keep you from having to remove the wheels in the street.

Yeah I could have. Didn’t think of that .

 

[Red Crow]

Yeah I could have. Didn’t think of that .

I hope you get it moved and running. Everyone else has given you great advice regarding the no start issue, so I have nothing to offer there. You're going to have to get you an old school tow truck to keep these things moved around!

 

[OVERKILL]

Possibly for sure. He told me after we loaded it up and it was paid for that he dug it out of the weeds behind his garage.

How hard is it to pull the intake and check? That might make sense as your next step.

 

[Number_35]

Mazda 2.2 I4

I believe that engine uses a feedback carb - that is, it has a variable jet that changes the mixture based on feedback from an O2 sensor. It's pretty much the same as throttle-body fuel injection.

You know this, but step back and think about the basics - for an engine to run, you need these things:

- Compression (which you've got),
- spark at the right time, and
- the correct air-fuel mixture.

It goes without saying that the cam and the crank have to be in sync too.

You've checked compression, so that's OK.

You've checked for spark, but I'm not sure if you've checked for timing. I'd check with a timing light while someone cranks the engine. It should be close to TDC. By close, I mean TDC to perhaps 10 degrees BTDC.

You say the timing marks are good, so I assume you've pulled the timing cover to confirm. When those marks are in sync, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 terminal, and cylinder #1 should be at TDC. (You can check this by pulling the #1 plug and confirming that the piston is near the top.)

Assuming that's all good, you have a fuel-delivery problem. At that point, you might get to learn more about carburetors!

In any case, good luck to you, and please keep us updated.

 

[AutoMechanic]

How hard is it to pull the intake and check? That might make sense as your next step.

Not sure. Carburetor would probably have to come off. Actually thanks for the suggestion I’ll go look on ShopKeyPro since I have access to that because of work. . It will tell me everything I need to take off and remove.

 

[AZjeff]

This morning I serviced the brakes/hubs on our travel trailer. Pulled, inspected, cleaned, repacked bearings, replaced in slightly under 2 hours with wife assisting. No really, she's good help. We bought this 2017 trailer in late December and I've been baselining it. These have definitely never been apart and while no bearings were dry and the brakes are fine but they were due. One had light grease on the drum surface that the magnet drags on so I'll have more brakes now.

 

[AutoMechanic]

I believe that engine uses a feedback carb - that is, it has a variable jet that changes the mixture based on feedback from an O2 sensor. It's pretty much the same as throttle-body fuel injection.

You know this, but step back and think about the basics - for an engine to run, you need these things:

- Compression (which you've got),
- spark at the right time, and
- the correct air-fuel mixture.

It goes without saying that the cam and the crank have to be in sync too.

You've checked compression, so that's OK.

You've checked for spark, but I'm not sure if you've checked for timing. I'd check with a timing light while someone cranks the engine. It should be close to TDC. By close, I mean TDC to perhaps 10 degrees BTDC.

You say the timing marks are good, so I assume you've pulled the timing cover to confirm. When those marks are in sync, the rotor should be pointing at the #1 terminal, and cylinder #1 should be at TDC. (You can check this by pulling the #1 plug and confirming that the piston is near the top.)

Assuming that's all good, you have a fuel-delivery problem. At that point, you might get to learn more about carburetors!

In any case, good luck to you, and please keep us updated.

That’s very good to know. I couldn’t find any info regarding the factory carburetor as I’m told by most guys who have had these that they didn’t last very long. Yes I did pull the timing cover. Hopefully I can get this running. I really appreciate your info regarding the carburetor. I’ll double check everything again in case I did miss something. I’ll use the timing light too and check.

 

[Number_35]

That’s very good to know. I couldn’t find any info regarding the factory carburetor as I’m told by most guys who have had these that they didn’t last very long. Yes I did pull the timing cover. Hopefully I can get this running. I really appreciate your info regarding the carburetor. I’ll double check everything again in case I did miss something. I’ll use the timing light too and check.

We had an '85 626 that used a very similar system - I just looked for the factory service manual, but think I must have given it away at some point. We retired the car in 2005, but I have memories of doing some work on the carb in 2001. Lotta water under the bridge since then, though.