What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 805
what is rhat on?
2001 Mercury Villager, 62k
These plugs are ~10 years old, and maybe have ~20k on them
With this Nissan 3.3 VG33E V6
Here I am finally figuring out the wiring diagram and ohming out the injectors
Don't laugh, I'm not equipped to do things properly
But I got the requisite 12-14 Ω on all 6 injectors
So the two dark/sooty probably rich plugs? Are a mystery
I'll check the fuel pressure regulator again
I've finally got a good Hitachi distributor in
Hopefully plugs and wires improves the situation
Surprised myself and attempted to sort through my pile of tools. Somehow I wound up with a collection of wrenches... need to get some wrench holders, and same for sockets too. And a set of 1/4" drive metrics, somehow I have deeps but not a good set of shallow.
Don't know what it is but I've never had a FWD car that didn't feather rear tires. So while in the garage I made the mistake of looking, so, despite being a whopping 386 miles before I was due for oil change & rotation--I did both. Tomorrow I can check oil level, top off, then see how fast it uses oil, this 5S-FE has always used about a qt or two over 5k, but one of the first things I did was the timing belt, and when I just redid that, I learned that I never did the oil pump o-ring properly. Which explains the oil leak--and consumption. I wonder if this old girl will drop below 1qt/5k despite her 260kmiles on the clock?
Don't know what it is but I've never had a FWD car that didn't feather rear tires. So while in the garage I made the mistake of looking, so, despite being a whopping 386 miles before I was due for oil change & rotation--I did both. Tomorrow I can check oil level, top off, then see how fast it uses oil, this 5S-FE has always used about a qt or two over 5k, but one of the first things I did was the timing belt, and when I just redid that, I learned that I never did the oil pump o-ring properly. Which explains the oil leak--and consumption. I wonder if this old girl will drop below 1qt/5k despite her 260kmiles on the clock?
1992 Acura Vigor. I got tired of the A/C cooling the windshield instead of me. Took off the mode control motor assy and swapped out its electric motor with one from an '03 TL-S. This one has push buttons for 5 different positions; the TL-S has fully automatic HVAC control. Its motor turns slower and is silent while it has a lot more torque. The Vigor's motor I could stall just squeezing my fingers on its shaft. Also, it had a dead spot, which I would find, and leave it stuck on floor/defrost.
Old one on left. New one on right, with worm gear from old one already installed. I unsoldered power and ground and swapped the motors. It's great that even though it's 1992 versus 2003 the supplier kept the same physical can and driveshaft dimensions on the motors.
Old one on left. New one on right, with worm gear from old one already installed. I unsoldered power and ground and swapped the motors. It's great that even though it's 1992 versus 2003 the supplier kept the same physical can and driveshaft dimensions on the motors.
Replaced rear brakes on my brother’s 2014 Chrysler Town and Country minivan. His wife uses it a lot… it gets tons of hard miles and the brakes need changing.
Took them off and the pads weren’t down to the backing plate yet. He worked on removing the stuck rotors while I cleaned and regreased the brackets.
Noticed the rear shocks were battered and crusty. Easy to compress. So he ordered a set from NAPA and we started removing them. I now know that swapping those shocks are easy, but yesterday afternoon I was removing the mounting bracket because I couldn’t get a wrench in behind it to hold the nut. Two of the four bolts holding the mount snapped. Drilled them. Tried removal tool (my reverse screw easy-outs are gone and all I had were the square set). Failed.
My brother cut a slot in the body above the mount where they snapped and I was able to air chisel the nuts out and leave the holes. Got a set of Grade 10 metric bolts and nuts from Ace Hardware, remounted the shock mount with the new and remaining bolts and it’s solid. Sealed the holes for now. If need be, he will weld them later.
The other shock? I found that my S shaped wrenches (Icons from the Harbor) were able to fit and hold the nut.
. That shock took 5 minutes to swap, including installing new bolts.
The brakes went on with no problem and the van stops and rides nicely… now he needs the fronts done.
Lesson learned: look and consider all of your tools for the job.
Took them off and the pads weren’t down to the backing plate yet. He worked on removing the stuck rotors while I cleaned and regreased the brackets.
Noticed the rear shocks were battered and crusty. Easy to compress. So he ordered a set from NAPA and we started removing them. I now know that swapping those shocks are easy, but yesterday afternoon I was removing the mounting bracket because I couldn’t get a wrench in behind it to hold the nut. Two of the four bolts holding the mount snapped. Drilled them. Tried removal tool (my reverse screw easy-outs are gone and all I had were the square set). Failed.
My brother cut a slot in the body above the mount where they snapped and I was able to air chisel the nuts out and leave the holes. Got a set of Grade 10 metric bolts and nuts from Ace Hardware, remounted the shock mount with the new and remaining bolts and it’s solid. Sealed the holes for now. If need be, he will weld them later.
The other shock? I found that my S shaped wrenches (Icons from the Harbor) were able to fit and hold the nut.
. That shock took 5 minutes to swap, including installing new bolts. The brakes went on with no problem and the van stops and rides nicely… now he needs the fronts done.
Lesson learned: look and consider all of your tools for the job.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
- Joined
- May 5, 2018
- Messages
- 21,069
Currently, coffee and a jelly donut.
Plan is to do some light yard work, or rebuild the skidoo clutch which needs done since the kit arrived.
Plan is to do some light yard work, or rebuild the skidoo clutch which needs done since the kit arrived.
1993 Volvo 240 sedan, 68,000 miles.
Replacing the OE rubber utility bushings with poly bushings.
I work along side my mechanic and friend, a 35 year Volvo tech. He’s loves to teach and I love to learn.
The car is getting a full maintenance overhaul after sitting for 4 years. So much fun.
Replacing the OE rubber utility bushings with poly bushings.
I work along side my mechanic and friend, a 35 year Volvo tech. He’s loves to teach and I love to learn.
The car is getting a full maintenance overhaul after sitting for 4 years. So much fun.
Last edited by a moderator:
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Right now nothing. Way too hot to do anything outside. Supposed to look at a coolant leak on a Pontiac Grand Am for my dads friend I had actually forgotten about it till now lol. We will see if we get that far today. We are out riding around now.
Well, the sun was hiding behind the clouds, and the temp was a cool 89, so I fished about 200sq ft of r-13 into the far corners of the attic and started working my way back. This equated to 2 hours, 2 breaks, and much water. I know it’s hot, but it’s not *as hot* as other days lately. This is clearly taking the place of any aspirations for evening exercise.
the 2.7 eco got an OC yesterday. M1 10-30 with STP XL filter. This seems a good oil for this engine, as it doesn't hardly sound any different once new oil is in it.
worked on a friend’s Camry Thursday, it got M1 5-30 with an M1 filter. It wants 0-20 but has about 300k on it, and runs like a car with about 60k on it.
wife‘s car got a bath yesterday, out of dusty necessity. She was getting so frustrated with the tailgate being dirty to touch that she was threatening to drive through a car wash. No full detail, just a wash and wipe-down.
studied for about 2 hours in the middle of this. Since the forum has rules, we’ll say “Mesopotamian history.”
and that’s it. I’m cooked. I have a pillow behind my back, crashed in the recliner. Thank you Bitogers, for giving me some community to read.
the 2.7 eco got an OC yesterday. M1 10-30 with STP XL filter. This seems a good oil for this engine, as it doesn't hardly sound any different once new oil is in it.
worked on a friend’s Camry Thursday, it got M1 5-30 with an M1 filter. It wants 0-20 but has about 300k on it, and runs like a car with about 60k on it.
wife‘s car got a bath yesterday, out of dusty necessity. She was getting so frustrated with the tailgate being dirty to touch that she was threatening to drive through a car wash. No full detail, just a wash and wipe-down.
studied for about 2 hours in the middle of this. Since the forum has rules, we’ll say “Mesopotamian history.”
and that’s it. I’m cooked. I have a pillow behind my back, crashed in the recliner. Thank you Bitogers, for giving me some community to read.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 805
sheetrocking a secondary bedroom, fresh upfit or space, new fllors etc.
new rad, water pump, idler, thermostat, hoses installed. The water pump was a slight pain with 3 bolt sizes and the ackward thermostat housing. topped off the coolant to see if anything leaks overnight. The dayco idler and hoses were the same visually as Lexus/Toyota OEM. Tomorrow will finish the fan, fan shroud and test for leaks. I decided not to replace trans oil cooler lines but will note it in service logs to re-do in 30k miles.
2008 Ford F150 4.6L intake manifold replacement. I dreaded the job every time I kept thinking about it because it's a lot of R&R work. Didn't take that much pics because I ran into a bunch of snafus particularly the last half of the manifold install.
Manifold removed which begins the horrid part of the job, cleaning and removal of coolant. Coolant down the tube seals and the valley. Cleaning and checking head mating surfaces since I read a few instances of pitting around the coolant passages. Put a dab of RTV around the coolant passages on the head. After the cleanup was done, I also changed the spark plugs figured it was easier with the intake off.
There's your problem, similar failure around on the intake manifold where the plastic gasket grooves started cracking.
Old manifold, beginning the transfer of the EGR, PCV, and fuel rails to the new manifold. Had to secure them using self-tapping screws. Don't ask how the coils also gets bolted on.
Then a bunch of snafus rushed in as I was buttoning up the Dorman intake manifold.
Snapped a heater hose QD fitting off the firewall.
Thermostat housing leaking plus delayed t-stat opening. The spacer Dorman calls for that goes between the housing and crossover pipe isn't needed and was not sealing the o-ring well. Coolant temps hit 220-225F (via scantool) before the t-stat opened which was too hot for a 195F t-stat. Replaced with a NAPA t-stat and seal minus the housing spacer.
Coolant plug on the crossover pipe was leaking. I have no explanation why the thread sealer failed on the plug when the threaded heater hose barb didn't leak. Resealed the plug with thread tape and everything finally remained dry after the third test drive.
Also replaced the sway bar end links after observing them from the brake job 2 weeks ago.
Manifold removed which begins the horrid part of the job, cleaning and removal of coolant. Coolant down the tube seals and the valley. Cleaning and checking head mating surfaces since I read a few instances of pitting around the coolant passages. Put a dab of RTV around the coolant passages on the head. After the cleanup was done, I also changed the spark plugs figured it was easier with the intake off.
There's your problem, similar failure around on the intake manifold where the plastic gasket grooves started cracking.
Old manifold, beginning the transfer of the EGR, PCV, and fuel rails to the new manifold. Had to secure them using self-tapping screws. Don't ask how the coils also gets bolted on.
Then a bunch of snafus rushed in as I was buttoning up the Dorman intake manifold.
Snapped a heater hose QD fitting off the firewall.
Thermostat housing leaking plus delayed t-stat opening. The spacer Dorman calls for that goes between the housing and crossover pipe isn't needed and was not sealing the o-ring well. Coolant temps hit 220-225F (via scantool) before the t-stat opened which was too hot for a 195F t-stat. Replaced with a NAPA t-stat and seal minus the housing spacer.
Coolant plug on the crossover pipe was leaking. I have no explanation why the thread sealer failed on the plug when the threaded heater hose barb didn't leak. Resealed the plug with thread tape and everything finally remained dry after the third test drive.
Also replaced the sway bar end links after observing them from the brake job 2 weeks ago.
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2021
- Messages
- 805
that is a high quality looking radiator
Replacing all three u-joints in rear d/s of '99 Ram 4wd
I continue to have problems with Spicer 5-811X brittle plastic seals splitting when seated. And I continue to maintain Spicer screwed up here but can't bring themselves to own it (these seals are not safe and effective!).
I even went 'round with Spicer a couple years ago on this and they at least apologized and sent me replacement joints.....but it's the definition of insanity, using the SAME thing over and over and expecting a different result. Spicer never admitted anything was wrong.....more like shrugged their shoulders and mumbled, "Idunno..."
Anyway, for these Dodge applications I'm done with Spicer. If anyone knows the Neapco or SKF BF counterparts for the 5-811X, post up. Otherwise I'll look it up in due time.
Unrelated to seals, I managed to blow a cap off an 811X, through my BJP1 and to the far shop wall. Glad no one was standing in the line of fire!!!
I continue to have problems with Spicer 5-811X brittle plastic seals splitting when seated. And I continue to maintain Spicer screwed up here but can't bring themselves to own it (these seals are not safe and effective!).
I even went 'round with Spicer a couple years ago on this and they at least apologized and sent me replacement joints.....but it's the definition of insanity, using the SAME thing over and over and expecting a different result. Spicer never admitted anything was wrong.....more like shrugged their shoulders and mumbled, "Idunno..."
Anyway, for these Dodge applications I'm done with Spicer. If anyone knows the Neapco or SKF BF counterparts for the 5-811X, post up. Otherwise I'll look it up in due time.
Unrelated to seals, I managed to blow a cap off an 811X, through my BJP1 and to the far shop wall. Glad no one was standing in the line of fire!!!