What are you working on today?

Replaced my motor mounts on the 08' Trailblazer last night, but I safely squared away one of the nuts in the engine bay ... So I had to wait until this morning so I took the other car to the Buick dealer right down the road and paid $5.35 for one nut,but at least I don't have an angry growling drive train now everytime the car idles in gear, the passenger side was clearly more rotted and squatted as expected since it's the one over the exhaust. I was going to check the tranny mount but it was getting late and I was already fed up enough after doing the engine mounts, so some day soon I need to get the tranny mount out and check it's condition and make sure there's no debris in it,
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2012 Chevrolet Suburban 4wd
Serviced front and rear differentials, changed oil

1980 Chevrolet Camaro
Installed the replacement torque thrust II's on the rear

1994 Dodge Ram 1500 2wd
Started replacing the front upper and lower ball joints. Finish that tomorrow.
 
Rolled out four more roles of fiberglass in tight spots over 2 hours. Wife gave me knee pads for Father’s Day which were WORTH IT WHY DIDNT I GET SOME SOONER??

but then decided to tackle the collapsing seat cushion in the 2018 f150. Got the old one out in 45 minutes and started wrestling the new one in. Got it 90% in and test-sat it. very little difference? Whaaaat? put it back on the work table and realized that ford uses plastic ties between the seat springs to keep them working together in high weight places, and half of mine were broken. I’m 195 lbs, not featherweight but also not a big guy. The truck is 5 years old. The best I had to replace them was threaded stainless steel hose clamps, so I used those to replace the broken ones as well as the next ones I figured would snap.

reinstalled it all.. it’s not perfect. im too close to it and can’t tell. I am indeed 1.5“ taller in the seat, but the cushioning doesn’t seem even.

somebody in the budget department at ford should be slapped; I can’t see any engineer recommending this as their solution. I can see engineers quitting over this and going to GM or Dodge or John Deere.

pictures are part-way thru the repair. I think I used 7 clamps in total.
wow what a joke!! they expect that to last? obviously not.. You're right..the foam is just sinking because that "suspension" is sagging, it would feel the same as before, the suspension isn't keeping the foam's shape at all. If those clamps don't work.. The only thing I can think of is JB weld for those pieces.. but you'd be out a seat while it set.
 
Was called upon to fix this CMC coining press. I found a depressing thread on PM (from 2011, mind you!) stating that all these Italian presses were essentially small batch one-offs and one should not expect to find parts or even manuals.

Fortunately the problem was more universal in that the pump motor coupler had walked up its shaft, thus having diminishing contact with the pump coupler.
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Since the motor is never reversed, three of the arms on the poly insert took a beating but the other three were perfect. I re-indexed it so the good ones now take the load and repositioned the motor coupler properly for full engagement.

The biggest bummer was having to lift the 5hp motor straight up out of the case. I hope my already-operated-upon lower back forgives me!
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This press is allegedly capable of 320 tons (although they use it turned WAY down). If true, holy cow that's a lot of pressure!
 
wow what a joke!! they expect that to last? obviously not.. You're right..the foam is just sinking because that "suspension" is sagging, it would feel the same as before, the suspension isn't keeping the foam's shape at all. If those clamps don't work.. The only thing I can think of is JB weld for those pieces.. but you'd be out a seat while it set.
Agree on all. I am happy to report that after 1.5 hours seat time, the repair is solid as far as my buttometer can tell. They probably estimated some time-based prediction for failure, maybe past buyer number 1? It’s a 2018.

the back rest makes a creaking noise - I wonder if it’s similar. I think if I do this again it gets heat strips and an oem leather takeoff set of covers.
 
Agree on all. I am happy to report that after 1.5 hours seat time, the repair is solid as far as my buttometer can tell. They probably estimated some time-based prediction for failure, maybe past buyer number 1? It’s a 2018.

the back rest makes a creaking noise - I wonder if it’s similar. I think if I do this again it gets heat strips and an oem leather takeoff set of covers.
ya I've seen that before, engineers know exactly how many cycles something will last, this being the buttometer test.. I wonder if that's what they really call it! lol.. but.. glad you got it fixed! ya makes sense of something holding the back spring suspension together too, maybe see a parts diagram before ripping it apart? that way you'd know..
 
Agree on all. I am happy to report that after 1.5 hours seat time, the repair is solid as far as my buttometer can tell. They probably estimated some time-based prediction for failure, maybe past buyer number 1? It’s a 2018.

the back rest makes a creaking noise - I wonder if it’s similar. I think if I do this again it gets heat strips and an oem leather takeoff set of covers.
You've got me wanting to tear into my '07 F150. Despite having high mileage when I bought it I always found the driver's seat super comfortable for my lower back.

It had just the right amount of lumbar support...until one day I heard a "POING!!" and my spine sunk back toward the rear of the vehicle a tad. It's one of those first world problems that actually really disappointed me-- I truly used to look forward to driving the truck just because the seat felt so good (microdiscectomy in '07).
 
Got the ball joints replaced on the 94 Ram, also replaced the outer left tie rod and changed the oil.

1999 Pontiac Grand Prix
Replaced the battery, serpentine belt and the 3800 heater hose bypass tubes. Looks like I'll be replacing the radiator tomorrow.
 
Hot sun kept me from some major projects but around 5pm, I ventured out. Wasn’t too bad, so I took the Craftsman 54” garden tractor over to the garage to find out what happened to the mower deck.

Belt was intact, so I was concerned a spindle was broken. When I started taking off the plastic guard on the left side, I went to check the tensioner. It’s simply a bar or rod that pivots on a spring and pulls a pulley tight on the belt. The spring on the tensioner bar had rusted and snapped.

I was going to take the spring to the local farm and fleet store tomorrow, but my mom was watching and said “Hold on… I might have one of those.” She did 😁. I modded it to work and asked why she had a heavy spring. She told me it was left over from an old trampoline my brothers kids used to use that broke. She saved the springs “just in case”. Well, that paid off today.😎

Mowed lawn for about 90 minutes in the heat, but decided that enough was enough and quit for the day.

Oil changes tomorrow. And looking at the recently fixed 2008 Chevy Silverado… the head gasket was done, but I suspect the oil pickup is clogged. Ticking and no oil pressure. 😑

Hope it can be saved, but I’m realistic too. I got an OEM oil pickup tube and pan gasket.
 
2011 Jeep Wrangler 3.8L/42RLE, Replaced the Radiator, Rear Brake job, And a Rear Wheel Stud.

2013 Silverado 5.3L/6L80E 175,xxx miles, Auction Rat/Ex BNSF work truck. What a wore out POS!.....Orange/Red dirt caked all over the underside.

MAP Performance & MAF Performance DTC's, Air Filter plugged, MAF dirty, Throttle Body dirty.

ABS DTC's for LF speed sensor, RF speed sensor, & RR speed sensor open circuits. Fixed the LF sensor circuit by fixing a broken wire, RR was fixed with a new speed sensor.
RF had both circuits broke right at the plug, But repairing the circuits didn't fix it. I'll revisit this in the morning as it hit 100° with 60% RH at 2PM & I was DONE!!
 
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...45 minutes at Walmart to exchange this stone dead battery
I mean, I had no receipt, I didn't buy it, it came with a car
But it was under the two year warranty, eventually the clerk figured out how to exchange it
I had to pay ~$13 core charge, most reasonable 👍
Batteries be too expensive these days 😳
Nice to see that you can claim the warranty without a receipt, I bought an Everstart Maxx 75 off a scrapper for $40 delivered recently, and it was only manufactured August of last year, the guy said it came from an Astro Van that someone locked up because it had a bad oil leak and they didn't bother keeping it topped up. He had pictures in the listing of it connected to a tester that showed an IR of 3.6milliOhms so it looked virtually new, so I figured I'd chance it for $35 and he brought it to me from the next county over for a mere $5 extra. If it goes bad it looks like I probably still have 2 years of warranty, the next best deal was Rural king for $55+tax, but I figured if my battery goes bad during the warranty at Rural King they probably won't ever have any in stock when you need it, Walmart is probably the best deal still, they don't seem to stay out of stock as long as Rural King and they still have the Value tier around here, which I think they got rid of in regions supplied by East Penn, they're normally $70 now but one store near me has them for $60. What's weird though, is all the Everstart batteries I've seen around me are made by Clarios, but the one I got is made by Exide, so I'm not sure what region it came from.
 
Lexus:
  • Got the flat repaired ($20).
  • Rotated the tires. Removed tire shop over-torqued lug nuts with impact and re-torqued to specs
  • Inspected brake wear; will need rear brakes in the near future.
The repaired tire was losing air yesterday. It's flat today. No evidence of a puncture.
  • Swapped the spare in its place.
  • Found out that Craftsman jack is still FUBAR.
Time for new tires. The ones that are on there now have >10k miles left on them. No where near the wear bars. But they're Fuzions - the absolute worst POS tires that have ever been on a car. They producde a lot of road noise from the time they were new. It's the wife's car so I asked her about it and she told me she didn't care.

Time to pitch the tires and the jack into the dust bin of history.
 
The local indy fixed a flat for a client and we then learned they over-tightened the lugnuts (I just happened to be installing McGard solid lugnuts to get her away from the stupid 2-piece design). '99 Ram 1500

She was ****** and took it back to indy. TWO lugnuts were seized. This place is so pathetic I bet they don't have or even know 18.5 mm sockets exist. They did this and said bring it back when you can leave it:View attachment 141775

She brought it to me instead. Seized lugnut #1 came out beautifully with an extractor, this is what success looks like:View attachment 141776

When those things bite they are a dog with a bone:View attachment 141778

Seized lugnut #2 sheared off near the conical seat. This is what a lot-more-work-ahead looks like:View attachment 141780
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I now have an appreciation for dentistry because I imagine this is what a root canal is likeView attachment 141782

This is what success looks like after HOURS:View attachment 141783
Bolt (and nut and SHCS) Outs (y)
 
I did a drain and fill on my 17 SantaFe tranny today. A bit of a pain to do but I got it. Used this cheap pump from WM to quickly pump it into the side overflow plug. Last time I did it I refilled it from a small plug in the tranny top and that took forever.
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It took about 1/2 quart more than I drained out. Moves more quickly now from reverse to forward. Last time I simply put back the same amount drained out. Apparently that was not enough for a proper fill.
 
1999 Pontiac Grand Prix
Replaced radiator, upper and lower heater hoses, thermostat, flushed block and heater core, changed oil

2003 Ford F-150
Replaced rear brake pads and rotors, replaced idle air control valve, adjusted shift indicator cable
 
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