What are you working on today?

Today was a doozy of a Friday:

Started with an alternator on an SC430, nothing tough

Rear calipers, pads, and rotors on an '09 Matrix

Warranty caliper on a Tacoma (junk FVP/Centric rebuilt lasted 500 miles)

Sold another trans R&R on a '07ish Civic that lost all gears (manual trans). Linkage is fine, slave is fine. It will roll free in any gear, something definitely broke!

Sold a bunch for next week: Sonata CV axle, Cobalt axle seal, and a few others I can't remember. It's not looking like it's slowing down any time soon!
 
Swapping pads for track day next week. Some new brake fluid too.
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Continued on with the 4L60E build, The guy that rebuilt this should be Fired.....Out of a Cannon!

Installed the Pump....Thinking alright....I can start on the Valve Body! Granted....4L60E's rarely need Endplay adjustments with all new bearings & good parts, But I better check it anyway cause everything else has been wrong so far, Sure enough I have NO Endplay.
*It's much easier to adjust Endplay before stacking the 3-4 Clutch & Lacing the Reverse Input Drum onto the Input Drum, But I got a little cocky & final assembled everything before checking:rolleyes:
*The previous builder had install some kind of aftermarket Endplay Shim that was .010" thicker than the thickest shim GM makes.
*Installed a GM Shim & it came out too .008" Endplay.

The Pressure Switch Manifold was missing 2 seals.....The D3 & D2 seals. If the driver never used D3 or D2....This likely never caused any symptoms, Crappy workmanship regardless! Had a good used one.

The Manual Valve is bent, The customer did comment that he's had 2 Shift cables snap on him.....I initially chalked that up to cheap Dorman cables, But nope.....More crappy workmanship. Had a good used one.

Wasn't able to snap many photos cause this build is dragging on....Every time I get rolling.....I have go dig for parts to make this thing right.

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Replaced the accelerator position sensor on my 2006 Accord. Have had a very minor stumbling behavior mostly noticeable at steady highway speed, and got the P2138 code a few weeks ago. Seemed good upon test drive so we shall see.

Honda thoughtfully located this part in an easily accessible location that does not require any removals to access.

jeff
 
Installed a new shift cable for the manual trans in one of my 92 Cavaliers. This is the second one I've replaced in this car since 2006. It left me stranded yesterday when the plastic end that connects to the transmission lever on the trans broke. I discovered that the end that connects to the gear shift was also broke when I went to take it off.

This car is just a spare that we keep around that my fiancé used to daily drive. I keep it at my house that my daughter lives at and was visiting her yesterday. I was driving it yesterday because one of the rear steel brake lines on my other 92 Cavalier that I usually drive blew out as I was leaving my daughter's house and left me without brakes.

Two breakdowns in two different cars in one day within 30 minutes of each other made for a bad day. Plus I had to wait for AAA for three hours to tow the manual tranny car home so I could fix it. I now have to trailer it back to my daughter's house and pick up my other Cavalier so that I can fix the rear brake line.
 
Major service for a friend’s 17 CR-V with 1.5T. 95.5K miles.

LOF, rotate tires, air filter, cabin filter, CVT fluid drain/refill, brake fluid flush, spark plugs.

All done in 1 hr 40 minutes.
 

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The Critic said:
Major service for a friend’s 17 CR-V with 1.5T. 95.5K miles.

LOF, rotate tires, air filter, cabin filter, CVT fluid drain/refill, brake fluid flush, spark plugs.

All done in 1 hr 40 minutes.
Click to expand...
At the rate I work...that'd take me the entire day. Hats off to you!
 
I put a new Depo taillight assy on a '12 Ram because it had started leaking SOMEWHERE and the reverse lamp (lowest point) was holding ~1/2" of water.

In a moment of Team TFI-esque genius the reverse lamp socket inserts in the very bottom almost like a drain plug, pointing up, so the socket corroded terribly from standing water. I'm surprised it didn't pop a fuse. The new Depo lamp came with sockets (and the stupid plastic body clips) which was nice.

Also 20 new McGard solid lugnuts all around to get rid of the stupid OEM 2-piece

Tried to replace a brake lamp in a '14 Rogue as a favor but the parts house sold her 7440s and it needs 7443s. This was "on-site" and after hours on a Saturday, so I slapped it back together and told her I'll get the correct bulb myself today.....

Exciting stuff indeed
 
Front rotors on our Atlas. 41K and on the second set I've replaced...all around town driving and my wife is a gentle braker (read drags brakes) so there you go....pad deposits for life! Every larger family vehicle we've had has done it. At least I got the rotors from FCP Euro so they are free now. EDIT. Done in an hour. So easy. Pads (Centric Posi-Quiet) look new...didn't even have to push in the pistons to get them back on the new rotors. Test drive says slowing from speed vibration is gone.
 
Last edited:
TiGeo said:
Front rotors on our Atlas. 41K and on the second set I've replaced...all around town driving and my wife is a gentle braker (read drags brakes) so there you go....pad deposits for life! Every larger family vehicle we've had has done it. At least I got the rotors from FCP Euro so they are free now. EDIT. Done in an hour. So easy. Pads (Centric Posi-Quiet) look new...didn't even have to push in the pistons to get them back on the new rotors. Test drive says slowing from speed vibration is gone.
Click to expand...
Get rid of the Posi-Quiet pads for some low metallic pads (heck, even OE) and you’ll go much longer between rotors.
 
Finished a cylinder head and piston ring job on a 2012 Volvo S60. In the last 4 years I have had 15 of these things get towed in from other shops that have shredded the alternator belt and suck the pieces into the timing cover causing the timing to jump. I recommend installing the updated piston rings while the head is off to fix the oil consumption issues that these cars have.
 
Installed a new rear metal brake line on the 92 Cavalier that blew out the line the other day. I originally bought a section of brake line with the wrong flare on the ends so I had to go back today and exchange it. This car uses the Bubble flare on the factory lines.

The section I bought was longer than the original piece was, but I made it work since I don't have a bubble flaring tool. I bled the rear brakes but the braking is still not great so I may have to do the fronts too even though the master cylinder never went dry and I kept it full.
 
Today was a relatively light day: hit 94* here in the Cities today, so work progressed slowly.

CV axle in a '12 Sonata
Rear tailgate latch on a '20 Ascent, ended up needed the pressure switch as well which is apparently unobtanium at the moment
Trans R&R on a '17 Promaster. Got that one done in less than 4 hours.

I know who's going to be sleeping good tonight!
 
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