Hermann
Site Donor 2023
Not doing much outdoors on a 100f day. Need to water the flowers and maybe mow the back yard with the rider before dusk
What are you working on today?
- Thread starter Amkeer
- Start date
yourself . Watched news report say 
is good for helping with dehydration .
I did a no no today
But it's on my own car, so it's on me
Previous repair (who knows how old) failed, so I plugged it
It's only gotta last another week or two until I've got time to get to the tire shop and get the new set thrown on
I've been tired of airing it up twice a day to get to work, then to get home from work
Gave the little M12 Milwaukee inflator quite the workout
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Been there , had to refill tire frequently for a week in 20 degree weather . Had longer waits due to COVID-19 .
ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2025
Put a new starter on the boat. Was very reasonable at 100 bucks with a 4 year warranty.
The old one had no upper bearing left.
The old one had no upper bearing left.
240 wagon: Replaced the Ignition Control Module
240 sedan: Cleaned the Ignition Control Module
Applied Dow Dowsil 340 Silcone Heat Sink compound and Würth Contact Cleaner Oil to the connectors on both units.
Both units are original. The heat sink paste had dried to a powder on each. I imagine the unit in the wagon died because of heat build up.
The wagon simply stopped running on a 92 degree day. No spark at the plugs.
240 sedan: Cleaned the Ignition Control Module
Applied Dow Dowsil 340 Silcone Heat Sink compound and Würth Contact Cleaner Oil to the connectors on both units.
Both units are original. The heat sink paste had dried to a powder on each. I imagine the unit in the wagon died because of heat build up.
The wagon simply stopped running on a 92 degree day. No spark at the plugs.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,212
Monday and Tuesday we're fuel tank pulling days. Monday I replaced the fuel pump and strainer on a 1993 Buick LeSabre. Car would lose fuel pressure under hard braking or a hard turn. I confirmed it by driving it around in front of the shop with the fuel pressure tester hooked up and routed out from under the hood. It would do this with half a tank of gas. Pump fixed the issue. Then I found a fuel leak on a 2014 Chevy Tahoe. There's a plastic line that runs from the fuel pump sending unit to the steel line on the frame along the top of the tank. It had developed a hole. Unfortunately that's s tank drop to fix. Local Chevy dealer had the line in stock and this one has a mesh on it, I figure to protect it from rubbing through again. Got it put together Tuesday morning, then started a brake job on a 2005 Ford Econoline E350 club wagon. Front a rear rotors, front and rear bads, repacked front wheel bearings, and replaced the right front caliper and hose. Also replaced the front sway bar to control arm bushings. Finished it up today, changed the oil and sent it on its way.
Monitoring A/C performance during my commute
Seems to vary between 36°- 42°F depending on speed
But considering this is bumper to bumper Brooklyn traffic, and it's 7:30 am, AND it's already 90°+
I'll take it
the rear sunshade
My hood light doesn't have a speaker, but it does make seeing under the hood so much easier. I've had pretty much every hanging and magnet light out there, and they still seem to be such a pain.
Worked on the STi Monday-Wed. Tried to remove the driver side knuckle everything is going well until I couldn't separate the balljoint from the lower control arm. I don't want to use a pickle fork as the balljoint has no play. This knuckle needs a new wheel bearing. A buddy is coming over with his bj separator tool in the weekend. Surprisingly, the axle on the driver side popped out np from the hub.
Tried removing the axle on the passenger side. This has a torn boot. **** thing is seized to the hub. After days, and 2 cans of PB blaster still no go. Will be borrowing my father in laws compressor + air hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll have to remove the knuckle and bring it to a shop to press out.
First time attempting front need work. The experience has taught me a lot.
Tried removing the axle on the passenger side. This has a torn boot. **** thing is seized to the hub. After days, and 2 cans of PB blaster still no go. Will be borrowing my father in laws compressor + air hammer. If that doesn't work, I'll have to remove the knuckle and bring it to a shop to press out.
First time attempting front need work. The experience has taught me a lot.
Was getting parts in O'Reilly and mustered all my discretion to not correct the next clerk over telling the customer how K&N air filters are bad (let's avoid THAT rabbit hole) because they "screwed up the micrometer rating."
As a kinda-mechanic, formally trained machinist and someone who believes in being concise with technical terminology, this hit me on three levels
BREATHE, BREATHE....
As a kinda-mechanic, formally trained machinist and someone who believes in being concise with technical terminology, this hit me on three levels
BREATHE, BREATHE....
2011 Sonata be HOT
Needed one of my famous driveway gauge set top offs
That's better
Put rear brakes on a 19’ VW Jetta today
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Done some front rotor machining on a 2018 Hyandai Sonata with 31,000. Had a slight vibration so they requested we machine the rotors. Took me 45 minutes to get them off. I tried driving bolts in to push it off the hub that didn’t work. Was hammering on the hat with a large hammer didn’t work. Wacking the heck out of it with the largest dead blow I had finally got it loose. Very rusty vehicle. Our dealership bought it from an online auction from somewhere up north. Cleaned the hub and applied anti seize like I do on every vehicle. Fought with the rotor hold on screws for awhile too. Had to replace one out of four. Someone had taken it out before it looked like as it was partly rounded out already. Also had to do a wheel stud for the oil change guys. Their manager used to not care if they did them but they got a different manager who is strictly worried about time and nothing else. So he won’t let them do it. It probably took me more time to get the stuff up there and do it then it did one of his guys getting started on it right away. Other than that I just managed my children all day. Lol that’s what they call my work people they couldn’t do anything on their own no matter how hard me or anyone else trains them. They are also each over $5,000 in debt with the tool trucks . I’ll admit I’m guilty of buying lots of tools but I’m nowhere near that in debt. That’s just crazy and stupid at that point. I’m kind of hinting around to them to stop buying stuff because they aren’t going to make it in the industry. Yes they have to be by my side every minute they aren’t allowed to work on their own and since I’m the guy that trains I get stuck with them. I also have to take them along with me on any job I get assigned too or if I have to go get a car off the lot or something. Both of them are 18 good kids just not good techs.
Continued pulling stuff off of my "new" engine. And cleaned the garage so i can work on everything.
Had a 2003 4x4 Ford Excursion with a 6.8L/4R100 & 121,xxx miles dropped off last night.....
Complaint, Random engine stall, Flashing O/D light, Check Engine Light with DTC P0720 & P0722 which are both for Output Speed Signal problems.
Truck has been to a Dealer service department & a Transmission shop with zero success in correcting the issue.
OSS Sensor replaced 3 times, OSS Connector pigtail replaced & PCM replaced & programmed.
Luckily I've ran across this before on a 5.4L Expedition & vividly remember getting my butt kicked pretty badly figuring it out! That's the one's that really stick in your brain.
Watching the OSS data PID.....Sure enough the value would max out (128mph) randomly & the engine would stall while just sitting there idling in gear.
Per my experience with the Expedition.....This is a Ignition Coil leaking KV causing interference in the OSS Sensor Sine Wave Signal. Which I found which Coil it was using Mode 6 test $53....Identifying the misfiring cylinder.
I thought I felt the Excursion have slight lope every once in awhile, But wasn't very distinct. Mode 6 was useless which I attribute to the heavy duty emissions calibration.
This is going to be fun.....Can I really just sell the guy 10 OE Ford Coils over a prior experience based hunch, Didn't exactly want to make that phone call....Especially with a new referral client that's already had parts thrown at his truck?
So I decided to unplug one Coil & Injector at a time 'til I found the culprit....Started with cylinder #1. I'm gonna buy a Lottery Ticket cause it was #1 Coil causing the issue. Ran in unplugged & plugged in several times to prove it out before calling the customer with a Diag fee, 1 Coil, & Labor to install the Coil.
**Already pulled the coil & new Boots & new Motorcraft Plugs had recently been done.....Which I lead with before telling him he needed a new Coil....."I see you tuned this thing up with new plugs & boots, But it needs a new Coil" He was skeptical to say the least, So I said let me install the Coil & you come test drive the truck.....If it acts up, Keep driving & you don't owe me a dime. If it's fixed come back & pay the bill. He was gone 45 minutes but came back & paid.
Complaint, Random engine stall, Flashing O/D light, Check Engine Light with DTC P0720 & P0722 which are both for Output Speed Signal problems.
Truck has been to a Dealer service department & a Transmission shop with zero success in correcting the issue.
OSS Sensor replaced 3 times, OSS Connector pigtail replaced & PCM replaced & programmed.
Luckily I've ran across this before on a 5.4L Expedition & vividly remember getting my butt kicked pretty badly figuring it out! That's the one's that really stick in your brain.
Watching the OSS data PID.....Sure enough the value would max out (128mph) randomly & the engine would stall while just sitting there idling in gear.
Per my experience with the Expedition.....This is a Ignition Coil leaking KV causing interference in the OSS Sensor Sine Wave Signal. Which I found which Coil it was using Mode 6 test $53....Identifying the misfiring cylinder.
I thought I felt the Excursion have slight lope every once in awhile, But wasn't very distinct. Mode 6 was useless which I attribute to the heavy duty emissions calibration.
This is going to be fun.....Can I really just sell the guy 10 OE Ford Coils over a prior experience based hunch, Didn't exactly want to make that phone call....Especially with a new referral client that's already had parts thrown at his truck?
So I decided to unplug one Coil & Injector at a time 'til I found the culprit....Started with cylinder #1. I'm gonna buy a Lottery Ticket cause it was #1 Coil causing the issue. Ran in unplugged & plugged in several times to prove it out before calling the customer with a Diag fee, 1 Coil, & Labor to install the Coil.
**Already pulled the coil & new Boots & new Motorcraft Plugs had recently been done.....Which I lead with before telling him he needed a new Coil....."I see you tuned this thing up with new plugs & boots, But it needs a new Coil" He was skeptical to say the least, So I said let me install the Coil & you come test drive the truck.....If it acts up, Keep driving & you don't owe me a dime. If it's fixed come back & pay the bill. He was gone 45 minutes but came back & paid.
Finally got all the parts to assemble GT500 5.8L which I jumped right on after finishing the Excursion.....
I was concerned with the 3V Oil Pump, But I checked it out earlier in the week & it has a NICE heavy steel cover unlike the Aluminum POS found on regular production 3V pumps. Primed/Packed it with some Lubriplate 105.
The only deviation on this build from stock will be ARP Head Studs......Gaskets, Lifters, Rockers, & ALL Timing Components are Ford OE.
I was concerned with the 3V Oil Pump, But I checked it out earlier in the week & it has a NICE heavy steel cover unlike the Aluminum POS found on regular production 3V pumps. Primed/Packed it with some Lubriplate 105.
The only deviation on this build from stock will be ARP Head Studs......Gaskets, Lifters, Rockers, & ALL Timing Components are Ford OE.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2021
- Messages
- 2,212
Thursday I replaced the rear shocks on a 2004 Buick LeSabre. Then I started a rear brake job on a 1997 Chevy Silverado half ton. Finished it up Friday morning and started checking out a 1985 Chevy C20. It needs front rotors turned, front pads replaced, front wheel bearings repacked, master cylinder is dumping fluid into the booster, so it's getting each replaced, rear brakes have been practically non-functional due to the master cylinder issue, but they are like new so they'll get cleaned and adjusted, valve cover gaskets are pouring oil and I suspect the oil return holes in the heads are clogged with crud, idler and pitman arm and worn out, front end needs greased but otherwise tight for it's age, and the blower motor quit working....and I'll start the repairs Tuesday as I'm going to give myself a three day weekend.