What are you working on today?

Done a lot today. Lots of work on the Subaru vehicles lol. Last minute before I was getting ready to go the used car manager came to me saying man I need you to do something for me since you are the last tech here I said what’s that. He said I got this Jeep that they are saying the brakes are stuck on can you fix it tonight as it needs to be on the lot for the weekend sales and I said yeah I guess I can do that for you as long as it ain’t one with lug studs which is wasn’t luckily it was a 6 speed Wrangler so that wasn’t too bad and no lug studs just lug nuts lol. I think it had 87,000 on it. Caliper was stuck. Checked the pins, bone dry. So replaced that caliper and done new pads and rotors on both sides as where it was dragging it had made noticeable hotspots on the rotor. The used car manager got to set up in it on the lift while I done it so he could be the pedal guy lol. I wanted to replace the hose too but they said no so I have to do what they say as they are paying for it. One of the guys who I am training was also there but he can’t drive stick so they told him if he can’t drive one he can’t work on one lol. He was a mechanic in the military though so he knows a good bit I wanted him to help as it would of been faster but again I have to do what they tell me. I was confused when he started as I thought all military vehicles were stick shift as they were when my mom was in back in the 80s he said they changed them all to automatic sometime ago as no one can drive the others anymore lol. It was nice to get more overtime than I already get though.
 
AutoMechanic said:
Done a lot today. Lots of work on the Subaru vehicles lol. Last minute before I was getting ready to go the used car manager came to me saying man I need you to do something for me since you are the last tech here I said what’s that. He said I got this Jeep that they are saying the brakes are stuck on can you fix it tonight as it needs to be on the lot for the weekend sales and I said yeah I guess I can do that for you as long as it ain’t one with lug studs which is wasn’t luckily it was a 6 speed Wrangler so that wasn’t too bad and no lug studs just lug nuts lol. I think it had 87,000 on it. Caliper was stuck. Checked the pins, bone dry. So replaced that caliper and done new pads and rotors on both sides as where it was dragging it had made noticeable hotspots on the rotor. The used car manager got to set up in it on the lift while I done it so he could be the pedal guy lol. I wanted to replace the hose too but they said no so I have to do what they say as they are paying for it. One of the guys who I am training was also there but he can’t drive stick so they told him if he can’t drive one he can’t work on one lol. He was a mechanic in the military though so he knows a good bit I wanted him to help as it would of been faster but again I have to do what they tell me. I was confused when he started as I thought all military vehicles were stick shift as they were when my mom was in back in the 80s he said they changed them all to automatic sometime ago as no one can drive the others anymore lol. It was nice to get more overtime than I already get though.
Click to expand...

Military vehicles are almost all Auto's, for exactly the reason you stated. As manual transmissions faded, those enlisting became further and further removed from possessing the once-common know how regarding the operation of a manual transmission. While the need for soldiers remains, the need for said soldiers being able to shift gears vanished. Sign of the times.
 
AutoMechanic said:
Done a lot today. Lots of work on the Subaru vehicles lol. Last minute before I was getting ready to go the used car manager came to me saying man I need you to do something for me since you are the last tech here I said what’s that. He said I got this Jeep that they are saying the brakes are stuck on can you fix it tonight as it needs to be on the lot for the weekend sales and I said yeah I guess I can do that for you as long as it ain’t one with lug studs which is wasn’t luckily it was a 6 speed Wrangler so that wasn’t too bad and no lug studs just lug nuts lol. I think it had 87,000 on it. Caliper was stuck. Checked the pins, bone dry. So replaced that caliper and done new pads and rotors on both sides as where it was dragging it had made noticeable hotspots on the rotor. The used car manager got to set up in it on the lift while I done it so he could be the pedal guy lol. I wanted to replace the hose too but they said no so I have to do what they say as they are paying for it. One of the guys who I am training was also there but he can’t drive stick so they told him if he can’t drive one he can’t work on one lol. He was a mechanic in the military though so he knows a good bit I wanted him to help as it would of been faster but again I have to do what they tell me. I was confused when he started as I thought all military vehicles were stick shift as they were when my mom was in back in the 80s he said they changed them all to automatic sometime ago as no one can drive the others anymore lol. It was nice to get more overtime than I already get though.
Click to expand...
Reminded me of this.

Michigan man sued after technician accidentally killed mechanic with his Jeep

A Michigan man is being sued after a technician who didn't know how to drive a stick shift accidentally killed a mechanic from behind the wheel of the defendant's car.
www.washingtonexaminer.com www.washingtonexaminer.com
 
Last edited:
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Let’s try something different:

Based on the tools and supplies in this picture, what am I working on?
 
D60 said:
I want pics of the machining and the machine tools :D
Click to expand...

Used a buddies old Rockwell Lathe at his shop. I need to buy a Lathe....Just waiting for the right deal to come along.

The week was to hectic to finish the TH350 build so I tuned the Phones off & finished it up today......

*Tap out the Reverse Feed hole in the Case to 3/8"-24, Then plug the hole with a 3/8"-34 plug coated with red loctite. This is part of the Dual Fed Direct mod.

*As I'm using a 4L60E Center Support, You must check the Lo/Reverse Clutch Clearance! Had to add a Steel under the bottom Steel to get .090" clearance.
Considered myself lucky, Worse case scenario, I would've had to use the 6 Cylinder Lo/Reverse Piston & machine it down.

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*Time to Install the Forward Clutch Drum, Direct Drum, & Forward Clutch Hub as one unit, It's a little heavy & awkward.
*Position the case horizontally so the Forward Hub doesn't fall out while you insert the assembly, While rotating the Direct Drum to line it up with Sun Shell drive tangs.
*Install Intermediate Brake Band, Arrow. (Gives engine braking in L2)

Learned this from a old head a long time ago, Still remember that day......Trying to assemble a TH350 like a 700R4/4L60E, With the Forward Hub stacked in the trans with the Case vertical, Having trouble getting the Forward Fictions laced.
He came over, Told me to move the "F" over, Jerked the Drums & Hub out, Flung the Case horizontally & shoved the assembly home in less than a second....Least that's what it seemed like.
Man....He was a Grumpy old man. Think I worked with him 3 years before he would call/refer to me by my actual name. Used "Sh*thead" most of the time, Dumba** if I was messing up.
Learned A LOT of trans building tricks from him before he passed.

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Front Pump.....

*Install new Converter Hub Bushing & Front Seal.
*New Pump Gears (.723" thick)
*New Stator Support Bushings.....Bet less that 20% of rebuilt TH350's get new Stator Bushing as they are quite a pain to remove & install. This one still had it's original 1978 GM bushings!
*Install Intermediate Clutch apply piston.
*Align the Pump Halves & Torque them together with the Intermediate Clutch Piston Return Spring Assembley.
*Stator Support Sealing Rings. the omitted Sealing Ring is part of the Dual Fed Direct mod. Arrow.

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On to the Separator Plate & Valve Body.

*Install Modulator Valve (Arrow) & Vacuum Modulator. Thoroughly tested one of the "Red Stripe" Vacuum Modulators included with the Cores,
Apply Vacuum in 5" increments while applying slight pressure the the Modulator Valve with a pocket screwdriver. This allows me to feel sticking/dragging in the Vacuum Modulator or Modulator Valve. Pretty high out of the box failure rate on "New" Vacuum Modulators using this method......Checking actual operation!
*Install all 4 checkballs & Intermediate Brake band apply servo with new Teflon Seal.
*Drill out 3rd Clutch Feed Orifice to .144"
*TransGo Support Plate Gasket which is thicker than normal Plate-Valve Body gaskets, The Support Plate is rarely flat & you will have internal leaks with a stock gasket.
*I take it a step further & surface the Support Plate buy running it back & forth on the concrete floor.
*Install the TransGo Pressure Regulator Spring & 2-3 Shift Valve Spring.
*Block the 2-3 Accumulator, I use Lokar Aluminum Throttle Cable Nuts as they are the perfect height & shape for this, Just need to drill out the center to fit over the Accumulator Pin. The Accumulator Spring is removed, New Piston Seal, Insert Piston, Lokar Nut, E-Clip. The Accumulator piston is now pinned at the bottom of it's bore.


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*Torque down the Valve Body.
*One of the Cores had a Deep B&M pan & a Filter Extension that utilizes a Chrysler A-727 Filter.
*Couldn't get a High Flow Brass A-727 Filter locally, That will be remedied upon the first service after @ 10,000 miles.
*Used 2 Aisin-Warner Magnets in the bottom of the Pan.
*It will also receive a new Cast Aluminum Deep Pan & a Farpak Gasket at the time of service!
*I straightened the rails of the B&M pan best I could, But will never hold a gasket without leaking. So I sealed it up with Permatex Ultra Gray.
*Will get it off the holding fixture in the morning & install the 2nd Accumulator Piston, Spring, & Cover in the side of the case. Takes @ 10 minutes.

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My 95 Wrangler developed a bad miss out of nowhere. No fire on a cylinder 3 and a badly fouled plug was found. Swapping around plugs and wires made no difference for cylinder 3.

Borrowed a compression gauge and had 0 compression in 3. Pulled the valve cover and found the pushrod on the exhaust valve was off to the side. It was strait as an arrow, so I put it back. Runs fine now (new plugs) but my compression is low on all cylinders. Time for a rebuild after almost 252,000 miles.

I’m not sure how a pushrod can jump it’s perch without being bent, but it did. At least it’s still drivable, for now.
 
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