What all is needed to use a Muzzleloader?

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I understand but you loose velocity with the pistol powder in a rifle using a .50. My reasoning behind the T7 despite the few complaints I’ve seen about even burn, consistancies etc etc is because Traditions recommends Pyrodex for all their in line rifles and the T7s were designed to keep the newer synthetic powders and Pyrodex from fouling the barrel up. My breech plug has a very fine hole in it for ignition so I hope the combo works out.

As for returning the order was placed online and hadn’t shipped yet so I cancelled and re ordered with the new powder.
 
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Pistol powder increases horsepower.
Pyrodex is the filthiest of all the substitute powders. Your weaker primers will work in most cases. But if the weather gets damp or wet, keep some stronger primers in the accessories box.
 
Ok I’ve got an issue. I had a [censored] of a time test fitting my sabots. I couldn’t get the whole thing in as one piece so I seated the sabot then placed the round on top and seated it. If I try both the at the same time the sabot opens up and lodges itself in the barrel. The round is measuring .428 and the sabot is right under .50 before inserting the round and sabot into the barrel

I took a look with the breech plug removed and I can see light shining through the barrel.

Is it too tight or will I be ok with using the sabots and something like CLP?
 
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I’m thinking the issue was my ram rod, it’s flimsy plastic. Once I get a chance to test fire this thing I’ll see if I need to upgrade, I’ve saw online that tighter fitting sabots are more accurate.
 
I 2nd the Crush rib sabot idea. You need proper bore fit, not to tight or loose. M-L bores have more variances than the average centerfire. You can check bore fit at home, then push out the sabot.

The sabots are matched to the bullet, so look carefully.
 
The article I read online says it takes about 40-60 lbs of force to seat the sabot/bullet. The [censored] ram rod was bending every which direction as I tried to seat the round. What I meant was when I removed the breach plug I could see light shining through the bore around the sabot.

Either way my primers and powder arrived today so tomorrow I get to sight it in and experiment with powder charges.
 
Yes, and after a few shots, it can become harder to seat the saboted round. I don’t swap between loadings, just add the premeasured powder, then seat another projectile.

Common bullet sizes are .452 or .451 for the 50 cal. One may also have sabots sized for .429 44 cal bullets. I prefer the 45 cal bullets. Knight bores are known to be slightly larger than the average T/C bore. Even the crush rib sabots come in slightly different sizes, again, back to testing what works in your bore.

I was sighting in with a guy who was pushing his ramrod against a barn to get the saboted bullet down his bore. I said what the heck is going in here? How are you going to reload in a deer stand? I set him up with some properly sized CR sabots, all was well.
 
Well I only did 5 rounds due to heat but out of the box it shoots high and to the left. No issues loading with the sabots or any issues with the primers. All I noticed was the black center of the primer wasn’t completely burned but it performs well.

Shots were a bit off due to getting use to noise and recoil. Kicker is somehow my 1st and 5th somehow landed in the exact. same. spot. 90gr powder 1st shot, 120gr 5th. I’ll head out another day and make adjustments.
 
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I’m in love. Sights are set and due to limited areas to shoot I’ve chosen a heavily wooded ravine behind my subdivision. Due to the area I don’t have the opportunity to take long range shots but at 25-30 feet I’m able to nail the center of the target or within a half inch.

Used up all my rounds so I’m waiting on some smack down sst’s to arrive. Gotta say Pyrodex smells amazing after being burnt.
 
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