Welding helmet

[Donald]

I assume I use the same welding helmet for MIG/arc/plasma cutting?

Does anyone use the older always dark (flip it) helmet anymore?

My Dad always use to watch an eclipse with his welding helmet, anyone do that? (My Dad was a physicist at Bell Labs (history) and he knew his physics.)

Is a HF self darkening helmet decent?

 

[motorguy222]

You need to make sure that the lens is rated at 12 or above if you are doing MIG or Plasma.

 

[tom slick]

The biggest benefit of an auto-darkening helmet is when you stop and start a lot i.e. tack welding or short beads. You don't have to flip the helmet up and down and you don't start in the dark. The other benefit is are adjustable shades.

There is nothing wrong with a traditional welding helmet. I used an inexpensive huntsman with a large lens for years. I've seen the HF auto helmet up close and it doesn't cover your head as well as most helmets so you'll get sparks behind it (ouch!). Also I wouldn't trust my eye sight to the lowest bidder.

Here's a chart for the shades, with the equipment you've been asking about a 10-11+ would be sufficient.
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/knowledge/articles/content/weldinglenses.pdf

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: motorguy222
You need to make sure that the lens is rated at 12 or above if you are doing MIG or Plasma.


Will that be listed on the welding helmet?

I thought if it was good enough for stick, it would be good enough for MIG or Plasma cutting.

 

[motorguy222]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: motorguy222
You need to make sure that the lens is rated at 12 or above if you are doing MIG or Plasma.


Will that be listed on the welding helmet?

I thought if it was good enough for stick, it would be good enough for MIG or Plasma cutting.


If you buy a new helmet,there should be something that lists the shade number of the lens.If not,the lens should have the number listed on it,it will be very small writing that should be along the outside edge of the lens.

You need a darker shade when doing MIG and plasma cutting.A shade of 10-11 is usually fine for stick welding but higher is best for MIG,TIG and plasma.
You most likely wont notice any difference between the shades in the short term but if you use a shade that isnt dark enough,you will most likely have damage in the long run and your eyesite isnt worth risking.

It is better to use a dark shade and be safe than to use one that is handy.

Use the higher shade number and keep your site.

 

[punisher]

The only thing that scare me about the HF autodarkening helmets is I have not found actual certification (UV blocking etc) on them. My old helmet, that I paid $270 for many years ago, came with UV certs and all sorts of safety certs stuck on it.

Not saying these HF helmets are bad, just don't have any real info on them besides what is advertised.

 

[scurvy]

I've got one of the $40 autodarkening HF helmets and it's worth every cent. Adjustable shade, works great, no more trying to strike an arc in the dark!

I'd love a more 'professional' model from Big Red or Big Blue or 3M, but for the tiny amount of rod burning I do, the HF helmet is hard to beat. If I'm doing more than just a little bit here and there I'll probably switch back to my heavy old one with a shade 13 lens in it... I like a much darker lens than most welders I've met.

 

[tom slick]

The plastic used a lens blocks the UV light, even a "clear" lens blocks UV. The "shade" is for blocking the light to a comfortable level for the operator.

Here is some more info:
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/weldinglenses.asp

 

[edhackett]

The HF helmets work. The optics aren't as good as better helmets. You can see more clearly through the better hoods.

Ed

 

[Errtt]

I have the auto-darkening helmet that has an adjustment.
I think they're great.
I test mine usually with a bic lighter spark before getting it on with the welder to know the sensor is working. Sun sometimes if I'm out of the garage. It would be to hard to go back for me now.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: motorguy222
You need to make sure that the lens is rated at 12 or above if you are doing MIG or Plasma.


I use the #11 gold plastic lens. Protects much better than a #12 green glass lens and gives a better colar image of the puddle.

 

[tig1]

I am a hood flipper from way back,(Fiber Metal Tiger Hood) and prefer that to auto darking hoods for most jobs. However I also own an Auto Darking hood for certain jobs, especially out of position work in hard to get places.