The biggest frustration is that it happened on a weekend where it's 18 degrees, and I already have 5 inches of snow and counting. The news said 2-5" by the end of Sunday. Not fun.Hating Dodge because a 20 YO car that wasn't the best thing on the road when it was new is having some probable old age problems? At that age it's going to be what is the next thing that goes no matter what the brand.
I'm going through a round of fixes on the 02 Xterra I gave my daughter and just expect them.
You've got a nice list of things to check out now.
Weird random no starton my Neon
- Thread starter 97prizm
- Start date
Weird the issue has come back. Last night my car started fine. This afternoon it started ran a couple of errands and then stopped in to eat at a restaurant. Turned off my car then tried to restart and nothing. No clicking
The lights don't seem to dim. I don't even get clicking from the starter. Today I had the same issue. I popped the hood checked the connections and nothing. Then sat back in my car and it started normal again. This is very odd.
Odd. I think it's a connection, perhaps getting in and out, the jostling of the car in the process of doing so, maybe slamming the hood down, is correcting a bad connection somewhere. Could be as nefarious as a cracked solderjoint on the ECU, or corrosion on a fuse that feeds the solenoid (the low side that is).
Maybe just slam the door really hard time next time.
Maybe just slam the door really hard time next time.
No start after work. I separated the keys one key started the car but the pcm or security light started blinking. I put the other key in and it fired right up. Then tried both keys again and nothing. I pulled one fuse that apparently is related to the radio and power door locks now one key fires right up. This odd behavior was mentioned on a neon forum as the sensor in the keys going bad. I've never seen this but none of my previous keys had sensors in them. Any additional suggestions?
Well that's a promising start. No idea how to fix, but if it's a security issue then that starts to explain things.
Do you have the wiring manual for this? Maybe a factory manual. I don't know how the security works, but I wonder if it can be bypassed... probably not.
First step is to figure out how the system works. Is it a resistor in the key? I have a hard time believing it's some sort of proximity sensor, but I could be wrong.
I am having a hard time believing that a Dodge Neon would have this as well.
I am thinking bad connection someplace. Like the electrical part of the ignition switch or the signal wire at the starter solenoid. Yes, I have had an ignition switch electrical part go bad and act a lot like what this car is experiencing (except without the jump pack).
I don't think the OP is alluding that the 2005 Neon has a "proximity" sensor. I believe he is suggesting the encryption chip embedded in one of the keys is going bad and disrupting the immobilizer in the security system from recognizing the code.
Start the diagnosis process by separating the keys and test each key individually with the other key(s) several feet away. It would be best to use a known good spare key that was never on the key ring.
I know for a fact that a 2005 Neon has a chipped key with an immobilizer system. Funny story, when in college, my son had to walk 5 miles to his girlfriend's apartment when he couldn't get her 2005 Neon started with the spare key she left him. Turned out the spare key was cut from a $3 blank without the encryption chip at a hardware store!
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I’ve had problems with several Chrysler products of that vintage where the lock cylinder wouldn’t go to the start position. Felt like it did but no good.
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-45278-924-704.aspx
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-45278-924-704.aspx
Thanks for the replies. I've read on one neon forum that the chips can go bad. ACE Hardware said they can cut a new key and encode it. Would it be worth my while to try this? After I went to leave work on Sunday I had wondered if one key or both were going bad. One key only one time did cause the security light to blink but not stay on. The other didn't. Then neither would start my car. I pulled one fuse that has the dome, dash lights, and power door locks on it. It did start up immediately but am not sure if it was a fluke. I'd like to get this fixed as having a vehicle randomly not start is stressful. I'm also applying for jobs to get out of security and if a possible interview comes up it would be good to know my vehicle will start.
This behavior would suggest to me that it is probably not a key going bad since both failing at the same time is too much of a coincidence. I'm not familiar with the design of the Mopar security system, but most brands have a immobilizer ring coil pickup module that is in the bezel surrounding the ignition switch. The chip in the key must be within an inch or two for the NFC chip to be detected, which in turn will shut off the immobilizer. The security light will normally blink a certain number of flashes to indicated the proper or improper chip is detected. Perhaps the wire connections are loose or the pickup coil module is failing?
Watch this video for more information.
Cool much appreciated. I was curious if any codes would be stored via the obd sensor. If so would plugged it in give me any direction on what to look for?
I'm not sure about any OBD codes associated with a defective immobilizer. I think the only indication for the immobilizer is the the number of flashes (or solid illumination) of the security light on the dash.
Not sure on starter, but at this point, haven't they been ruled out? To me, it's not worth the time and effort--better to find how this immobilizer system actually works.
Can you get a wiring diagram?
Wire up a Noid light to the starter solenoid signal wire that you (tape to the windshield, or something). Over time that will tell you something.
I did go out and put it in neutral and it fired right up. One key definitely seems to be more finicky in starting the car. If it's a park sensor are they expensive or with my luck difficult to replace?
No idea but keep messing with it. If shifting into neutral gets it to start, or shifting between settings gets it to fire up, it does point to that.
Or to mice chewing on wires and making for oddball failure modes.
Well It did start in neutral this morning. I'm now sitting at Advance Auto waiting for a tow truck. It now won't start at all. What a day. One key seems to make the security light blink the other doesn't. I'm exhausted.
That's a bummer.
I found this on Pinterest:
I have no idea where any of this is, but I wonder if you can somehow check on this "engine starter motor relay". It looks like it gets switched 12V from the ignition switch--but the coil low side is a switched ground from the PCM? I wonder if a test light on pin 28 would show if the problem is from the PCM or ignition switch. If you never get 12V on pin 24, it's the switch--if you get 12V on pin 28, it's the PCM.
What I don't know is if you can cut the wire from the PCM and leave it floating, and then tie pin 28 to GND, bypassing any interlock from the PCM. Thing is, the PCM could also be gating power to the ignition, injectors, et al at the same time. But if it was only disabling starting then maybe it'd be an easy bypass...?
When I had the ignition lock problem I jumped 25 to 26 with the key on just to crank it. Hunk of wire with two spades crimped on, quick plug/unplug . Got me going for a week until I could rip the column apart.
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