Weird 07 Nissan CVT "Issue"

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Would you verify the code? I'm not seeing a P0829 for a CVT. It looks like it applies to an automatic and is for the 5-6 shift.


I wish I could. Once it was cleared it wouldn't come up again. Whatever it is it definitely toast. Drove 25 miles home last night. Would do ok on flat roadway, able to get to 65mph at 3k rpm but any hill and she would drop to 40mph and rpm to 3-4k.
 
One of the most knowledgeable guys on here and a master tech suggested going back to the oem fluid. I'd start with that.
 
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
One of the most knowledgeable guys on here and a master tech suggested going back to the oem fluid. I'd start with that.


I don't mean to be disrespectful. I plan on doing just that and including a new filter. I always though there was a screen like most Nissan trans or no filter on the CVT. I was told there is a filter, media type.

What's bizzare is reading what I can find on the symptoms. ... many call for a pcm update; I can see that. But odd was comments from Nissan techs that rotating tires could be contributory to this issue. Not for me, I rotate mine every 5k. But something to look into as my tps light has remained on even though tire pressure is good.
 
Originally Posted By: BISCUT
What's bizzare is reading what I can find on the symptoms. ... many call for a pcm update; I can see that. But odd was comments from Nissan techs that rotating tires could be contributory to this issue. Not for me, I rotate mine every 5k. But something to look into as my tps light has remained on even though tire pressure is good.


The good thing about changing the fluid to the oem stuff is if it doesn't work then you can take it to the dealer for diagnosis under warranty. Just make sure the dealer you take it to is decent. Also I'd deal directly with the service manager on this. Since the advisors first priority is upsell potential. With zero upsell for them this issue will probably fall to the bottom of their priority list.

At the Honda dealer whenever I had a question that was even a little bit out of the ordinary I was walked right over to the manager. Luckily he was a very nice guy. I think the advisor was just new or something.
 
UPDATE: It's been a while but I finally was able to get the Maxima to the dealer. First off, the dealer service woman was fantastic (not to mention easy on the eyes). And she was amazingly helpful and honest.

The issue has nothing to do with CVT even though there was a code that was thrown for an up-shift sensor which is related to a auto trans not CVT. So wacky. The issue was REAR ABS sensor drops. FIx is new rear ABS hubs and ABS sensors. Doesn't look like ABS pump is burnt out but wont know until the hubs are replaced.

Crazy cost...$2200 for hubs and sensors and if pump is burnt out another 2500. Car is work around 7k. Insane! Anyway, big kudos to the service woman rep. She was like pay the $130 diagnosis fee and take it to a indy mechanic for a much lower price.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
[/quote]

Yes, but Fords are way better cars than Nissans, so it's not a fair comparison.


105679.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Any ABS light on?


Negative on ABS light. The TPS warning light came on even though tire pressure was fine. Cleared that and it has not come on since. No idiot lights came on at all.
 
That bothers me. I don't know enough about this car to say they are wrong but usually when an hub containing an ABS sensor is gone you have no ABS function, an ABS light and ABS codes.
Can you active the ABS with a panic stop? If you can I would venture an educated guess and say they are probably barking up the wrong tree.

It may well be a control module issue or the transmission is going away but I would sure get a second opinion before I changed hubs and ABS parts.

Edit: This seems to be a CVT code even though its called a shift code.

https://www.trnw.net/z-search/CVT.php
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
That bothers me. I don't know enough about this car to say they are wrong but usually when an hub containing an ABS sensor is gone you have no ABS function, an ABS light and ABS codes.
Can you active the ABS with a panic stop? If you can I would venture an educated guess and say they are probably barking up the wrong tree.

It may well be a control module issue or the transmission is going away but I would sure get a second opinion before I changed hubs and ABS parts.

Edit: This seems to be a CVT code even though its called a shift code.

https://www.trnw.net/z-search/CVT.php


I'm with you...I was sure it was CVT related. Just as ABS usually gives an idiot light, so does CVT. Neither was activated. I didn't want to say it because I don't care about fluid wars (OMG!! How dare I say) but the tech asked me about fluid change and I said it's had 2....and he had an ohhh sh.. look and asked about fluid. I said Amsoil CVT and I was worried about Amsoil so I did another with Nissan CVT. His response was, "If I didn't get Nissan CVT fluid cheap I'd use Amsoil on my wifes Murano." I also told him I had a Blackstone analysis done and he said he does them often on hos old school (86) Mustang. Then he told me of countless CVT's with regular ATF changes and how that just kills them.



All I can say at this point is what the dealer diagnosed. I'll do rear hubs and sensors and post up.
 
I hope it works, like I say I dont know enough about it to say. I would like to know the connection between the apparently functioning ABS hubs and the CVT though just out of curiosity.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I hope it works, like I say I dont know enough about it to say. I would like to know the connection between the apparently functioning ABS hubs and the CVT though just out of curiosity.


I wont know for sure until hubs and sensors are replaced. But dealer says it's not CVT related. The bad hubs and sensors are sending signals that confuse the traction control and the vehicle thinks its constantly slipping so the CVT is reacting to the fault. Thats how it was described to me.
 
Trav,

I cannot explain the connection BUT it was the cause. The dealer diagnosis was correct. Rear hubs and rear ABS sensors were replaced and she is running like new! Just in time to hit 10yr old (manufacture date July 06 for 07 year). I was giddy like a school girl so I cleaned the interior and washed and waxed the paint. Of course she drives faster now!

I can get past the connection, even though I don't really understand it; but the I cannot seem to wrap my head around the REAR hubs causing all this mess. Best news was my ABS pump was not burnt out. They aren't cheap to buy replacements for. All in all parts were $700. This was for hubs, sensors (they were different with one being more $$ than the other), and oil cooler line (it had a small leak).

So, this 07 Maxima went from zero problems in 9yr and 113k miles to:

Replace AC Compressor
Rear Hubs
Rear ABS Sensors
Oil Cooler Line

This does not include oil changes, tires, brakes, plugs, air filters; normal wear and tear items.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom