We leased a '23 Mach-E - too good to pass up

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We leased a new 2023 Mach-E yesterday, it's a Premium AWD with just about every option under the sun except for the extended range battery. Been languishing on the lot since sometime last year.

Original sticker - $55,400
Dealer discount down to $44,600
Ford lease credit on all leftover 2023 Mach-E Premiums - another $10,500 off. They were previously offering a $7500 lease credit, but when they bumped it up to $10,500, we jumped.

It had more options than I even realized when we showed up at the dealer, like the Bang & Olufsen stereo, I'm seriously going to have to look at the Monroney label again to see everything that's on it. It kept surprising us going down the road with all the stuff that it has, like auto brights for example. Color is Vapor Blue, which was a new color for 2023. Yeah it's a kind of EV looking color, but it's really pretty in the sunlight as it's pearlescent metallic.

I originally didn't want an AWD with the standard battery because it puts the range in the mid-high 220s, but you know what, we don't go out of town very often. And the amount of public chargers is growing fast, plus, the Fords have access to some percentage of the Tesla network that is compatible. This was the least expensive 23 Premium, with the dealer markdown, available within 100 miles. So, it's fine. Another plus point is that several of the magazine reviews said they got more highway range out of the Mach-E than the EPA and Ford ratings stated, so, maybe that will be true in our case also.

And even though I wasn't looking for it, with the AWD it is gonzo fast. The salesperson said it was less than 4 seconds 0-60, but I wasn't about to find out with my wife and 8 year old in the car. It is fast enough even with moderate pedal pressure coming off a stoplight that all the other cars will be far, far behind you very quickly. I had to tell my wife on the test drive she was going 85 - I think in a 60 zone, haha.

Other thing that was originally desirable on our EV hunting list, although not a hard requirement - has an LFP battery, so no cobalt. Honestly I think this is a red herring issue anyway, but it will be nice to be able to retort to people who try to throw the cobalt mining issues in my face, and yes that has happened in real life, not just on social media.

There are some drawbacks to this car, the cabin and the cargo area are not as voluminous as say the Model Y and the ID.4, mostly noticeable in the backseat accommodations when big ol me is in the front seat (6'7", 320ish). But I was already tired of my wife trying to convince me all the time that we need to have only 3 row vehicles. I mean it is just the three of us, and we still have the Navigator (for now). It's also not as efficient in a mile per watt hour basis so far in driving it as compared to say my parents ID.4, but they bought theirs in 2022 when the demand was still really high and paid sticker at close to $50K. So I really can't complain too much, electricity is cheap at home (.13 per kwh) and cheaper on the ChargePoint chargers at my office in the parking garage (.10 per kwh).

The lease is for 3 years at 15K miles per year. The buyout is very reasonable, and I think we will probably do so unless something goes horribly awry during the lease period. I suppose you might ask why we just didn't buy it in the first place. We probably would have, but the $10,500 credit was only available on the lease, go figure. Maybe Ford figures they'll get a bunch of them back in 3 years and the market for EVs won't be so soft at that point. But I wasn't about to leave that money on the table just to "own" it.

Comments? Fire away...
 
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Welcome to the dark side. Please post your experiences. What vehicle will this replace? Do you have a dedicated 240v circuit to charge?
 
Looks like only the GT has a 0-60 under 4 seconds. Salesman may have been blowing some smoke. But I'm sure it's still really quick compared to a similar ICE vehicle.

The looks of the Mach-E really never have grown on me. The proportions just aren't quite right to my eye. But if you're happy then that's what matters, you're making the payment.
 
Welcome to the dark side. Please post your experiences. What vehicle will this replace? Do you have a dedicated 240v circuit to charge?
Well we haven't even had it 24 hours yet, but the experience just driving it home was solid. The headlights are very good.

Replaces the Outlander in my signature, which I need to update now.

There is not a 240 volt circuit in the garage right now. I had planned to DIY, but the included Ford plug is a 4 prong, so I'm going to need to do some more research on the proper method of wiring that. The other question is if there's enough capacity in the garage subpanel or if I need to come off the main panel, which thankfully is directly adjacent to the garage on the outside of the house.

I have wired up dryer and AC circuits before when I remodeled a 1960s house down to the studs a while back, in fact I rewired that entire house including putting in a new outdoor box since the old one was rusty (I did have an electrician come pull the meter off to cut power to the box while I was wiring it up). Passed inspection by the notorious City of Austin inspectors, so I must have been doing something right. I am highly motivated to do everything electrical to code, so there's that as well.

Now as for the spigots on the hose bibs, that is another matter ;)
 
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Well we haven't even had it 24 hours yet, but the experience just driving it home was solid. The headlights are very good.

There is not a 240 volt circuit in the garage right now. I had planned to DIY, but the included Ford plug is a 4 prong, so I'm going to need to do some more research on the proper method of wiring that. The other question is if there's enough capacity in the garage subpanel or if I need to come off the main panel, which thankfully is directly adjacent to the garage on the outside of the house.

I have wired up dryer and AC circuits before when I remodeled a 1960s house down to the studs a while back, in fact I rewired that entire house including putting in a new outdoor box since the old one was rusty (I did have an electrician come pull the meter off to cut power to the box while I was wiring it up). Passed inspection by the notorious City of Austin inspectors, so I must have been doing something right. I am highly motivated to do everything electrical to code, so there's that as well.

Now as for the spigots on the hose bibs, that is another matter ;)
I'm guessing it's a 14-50 plug if it's 4 prong and included. That's pretty standard these days. It's easier to come by a 14-30 preinstalled in older construction if you have a 240V plug, but those are very recognizeable from the bottom pin having a 90 degree bend. The difference being that you'd need 30a-40a available on a 14-30 for EV charging and 14-50 requires a 60a circuit.

My garage sub panel was only good for 30a and did have 240V, so I just put in a 14-30 plug and use a plug in style mobile charger that pulls 24a instead of upgrading all the wiring to the garage. It's been plenty for our setup. It was going to get much more costly to go 14-50 and if I did go that route I would have went for a full home EV charger instead of using the outlet.
 
Well we haven't even had it 24 hours yet, but the experience just driving it home was solid. The headlights are very good.

Replaces the Outlander in my signature, which I need to update now.

There is not a 240 volt circuit in the garage right now. I had planned to DIY, but the included Ford plug is a 4 prong, so I'm going to need to do some more research on the proper method of wiring that. The other question is if there's enough capacity in the garage subpanel or if I need to come off the main panel, which thankfully is directly adjacent to the garage on the outside of the house.

I have wired up dryer and AC circuits before when I remodeled a 1960s house down to the studs a while back, in fact I rewired that entire house including putting in a new outdoor box since the old one was rusty (I did have an electrician come pull the meter off to cut power to the box while I was wiring it up). Passed inspection by the notorious City of Austin inspectors, so I must have been doing something right. I am highly motivated to do everything electrical to code, so there's that as well.

Now as for the spigots on the hose bibs, that is another matter ;)
this is not electrical advice, but 220 v stuff these days like dryers use a 4 prong plug. 2 hots a neutral and a ground. of course do research
 
this is not electrical advice, but 220 v stuff these days like dryers use a 4 prong plug. 2 hots a neutral and a ground. of course do research
This. Driers are usually 14-30, though I'm sure they're plenty of modern 14-50 as these plugs become more common.
 
I'm guessing it's a 14-50 plug if it's 4 prong and included. That's pretty standard these days. It's easier to come by a 14-30 preinstalled in older construction if you have a 240V plug, but those are very recognizeable from the bottom pin having a 90 degree bend. The difference being that you'd need 30a-40a available on a 14-30 for EV charging and 14-50 requires a 60a circuit.

My garage sub panel was only good for 30a and did have 240V, so I just put in a 14-30 plug and use a plug in style mobile charger that pulls 24a instead of upgrading all the wiring to the garage. It's been plenty for our setup. It was going to get much more costly to go 14-50 and if I did go that route I would have went for a full home EV charger instead of using the outlet.

Excellent feedback! Was wondering about doing a 30A circuit instead of a 50A circuit in the subpanel. This house is a late 2022 build, we've only owned it for a year and a half as of this weekend, closed 12/30/22.

I would feel safe using both the dryer and the car charger with 24A. I mean most days we are probably not going to run it down that much anyway, we only used 12% on the way home from the dealer. I just need more than what we'll get with L1 charging, for the long haul EV life, I think.

The Ford mobile charger has interchangeable attachments for plugging in, maybe I can order a 14-30 plug for it.
 
Excellent feedback! Was wondering about doing a 30A circuit instead of a 50A circuit in the subpanel. This house is a late 2022 build, we've only owned it for a year and a half as of this weekend, closed 12/30/22.

I would feel safe using both the dryer and the car charger with 24A. I mean most days we are probably not going to run it down that much anyway, we only used 12% on the way home from the dealer. I just need more than what we'll get with L1 charging, for the long haul EV life, I think.

The Ford mobile charger has interchangeable attachments for plugging in, maybe I can order a 14-30 plug for it.
They may make a 14-30 adaptor for it. If they do, make sure you get a Ford accessories plug if they offer one. It'll play nicest with your charger being designed for it. That said, unless it is similar cost it really doesn't make sense going to 14-50 for home charging for a mobile adaptor. Most are limited to 30a-40a and can't do the full 48a charging and beyond that on 24a with a 14-30 you'll see a full charge after 8 hours on something like the Mach-E anyway.

60a connections make the most sense for dedicated hardwired home chargers.
 
If you have room in the panel, it should be easy. I used #6 copper to a NEMA 14-50 receptacle. I would spend a little more and get a marine type receptacle instead of the Home Depot cheapie.

I have since moved on to the Tesla Wall Charger.
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this is not electrical advice, but 220 v stuff these days like dryers use a 4 prong plug. 2 hots a neutral and a ground. of course do research
Yes, I seem to recall that now from wiring my prior house that I remodeled. 10-3 cable, black, red, neutral and ground. Double pole breaker, takes up two slots.

I seem to have plenty of slots availablle from the exterior view at least, I have not taken the front face plate off. I'm feeling a little conflicted now though based on the installation sticker that I saw. The warranty on the wiring from the subcontractor is for 2 years, and as I mentioned previously, we closed on this house at the end of 2022. I don't really want to void the warranty, we did actually have a problem with a breaker after moving in, and breakers are shockingly expensive these days as compared to what they were back around 2010/2011 when I did my remodel. But I don't want to fork them over a crap ton of money either to do my charging outlet install. Decisions, decisions.

Interestingly, my dryer circuit at this house is a 30 amp double wide/pole, not a 40 or 50 amp. The dryer seems to work fine with it. Prior house was a 2018 build, I never really examined the circuts further though and didn't install the dryer at that time because it was new and installation was free. When I DIY'ed before it was a 40A circuit for the dryer, based on what I took out.
 
Awesome! Let's see the pics!

I've always liked the look of these.
@Brons2 we want a review! Regarding speed; your Mach-E is fast, but 0-60 is not the important metric. You will learn to love the quick, right-now passing ability of the car. No waiting for RPM power band, trans hunting for the right gear, etc. Just pull!

It never gets old.
 
Interestingly, my dryer circuit at this house is a 30 amp double wide/pole, not a 40 or 50 amp. The dryer seems to work fine with it. Prior house was a 2018 build, I never really examined the circuts further though and didn't install the dryer at that time because it was new and installation was free. When I DIY'ed before it was a 40A circuit for the dryer, based on what I took out.
NEC says the breaker for a dryer should be 30A, so that is the standard which would be installed in new construction.

It certainly could be a 40 or a 50 with the correctly sized wire, but don't change out the breaker for higher amps without knowing the gauge and distance of the run.
 
If you’re doing a plug-in option, I’d look into a quality outlet brand like a Hubbell.

I’m in the process of installing a 100A subpanel and hardwiring 2x 50A (12kW) EVSEs in my garage (they talk to each other and never pull more than 50A total). Thinking of a Blazer EV SS lease this fall when it comes out 🤔
 
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Well we haven't even had it 24 hours yet, but the experience just driving it home was solid. The headlights are very good.

Replaces the Outlander in my signature, which I need to update now.

There is not a 240 volt circuit in the garage right now. I had planned to DIY, but the included Ford plug is a 4 prong, so I'm going to need to do some more research on the proper method of wiring that. The other question is if there's enough capacity in the garage subpanel or if I need to come off the main panel, which thankfully is directly adjacent to the garage on the outside of the house.

I have wired up dryer and AC circuits before when I remodeled a 1960s house down to the studs a while back, in fact I rewired that entire house including putting in a new outdoor box since the old one was rusty (I did have an electrician come pull the meter off to cut power to the box while I was wiring it up). Passed inspection by the notorious City of Austin inspectors, so I must have been doing something right. I am highly motivated to do everything electrical to code, so there's that as well.

Now as for the spigots on the hose bibs, that is another matter ;)
According to FORD Looks like a NEMA 14-50r will do it. You can set charging rate in your vehicle so you are not tripping or toasting the BATT. Of course there better be a big insert in your new FORD paperwork on charging infrastructure and req's.

Screenshot 2024-06-25 115058.jpg

Screenshot 2024-06-25 120405.jpg
 
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