Who uses what? Is silicone viable? I see it being marketed for that. I have a pair of Carhartt work boots and live in the Northwest. Need I say more......
Waterproofing work boots
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I live in Portland, OR. I use spray silicone for casual shoes and other clothes.
But for things that get SERIOUSLY wet, I use SNO SEAL. It works pretty well, though it will darken your shoes forever. It's cheap too.
But for things that get SERIOUSLY wet, I use SNO SEAL. It works pretty well, though it will darken your shoes forever. It's cheap too.
Originally Posted By: T-Bone
I live in Portland, OR. I use spray silicone for casual shoes and other clothes.
But for things that get SERIOUSLY wet, I use SNO SEAL. It works pretty well, though it will darken your shoes forever. It's cheap too.
Same here,been using Sno Seal for probably 25 years.
I live in Portland, OR. I use spray silicone for casual shoes and other clothes.
But for things that get SERIOUSLY wet, I use SNO SEAL. It works pretty well, though it will darken your shoes forever. It's cheap too.
Same here,been using Sno Seal for probably 25 years.
Where do you buy it from?
I've always used Neatsfoot oil. Works great and does a real good conditioning for leather.
It's made from the oil in the shin bones of cattle....since they see all extremes in weather.
It's made from the oil in the shin bones of cattle....since they see all extremes in weather.
Mink Oil.
If you want to get some Neatsfoot Oil it can be purchased at Tractor Supply Stores. Two coats of Neatsfoot oil will last a winter season.
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Where do you buy it from?
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Where do you buy it from?
I wouldn't use any silicone product on a leather boot or shoe I cared about.
It plugs the pores of the leather and doesn't let it breathe properly.
I got bashed for saying the same thing elsewhere, and there are all kinds of opinions on leather care. Many trusted name brand products contain silicone, but many others dont, and advise staying away from silicone. Who knows what is marketing and what is truth?
I use this stuff...but some don't like it because it contains bees wax. Well, the Dressing does, the Oil just has Mink Oil and Pine Pitch, but isn't as water resistant as the Dressing is.
Montana Pitch Blend
It plugs the pores of the leather and doesn't let it breathe properly.
I got bashed for saying the same thing elsewhere, and there are all kinds of opinions on leather care. Many trusted name brand products contain silicone, but many others dont, and advise staying away from silicone. Who knows what is marketing and what is truth?
I use this stuff...but some don't like it because it contains bees wax. Well, the Dressing does, the Oil just has Mink Oil and Pine Pitch, but isn't as water resistant as the Dressing is.
Montana Pitch Blend
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
Who uses what? Is silicone viable? I see it being marketed for that. I have a pair of Carhartt work boots and live in the Northwest. Need I say more......
I've tried them all and never been completely happy with any until I discovered Nikwax waterproofing wax for leather. I can't comment on what this stuff does to appearence as I care so little about that that I really never noticed, but nothing else does a better job of preserving leather against wet mud and water. Web search should turn up a source.
Who uses what? Is silicone viable? I see it being marketed for that. I have a pair of Carhartt work boots and live in the Northwest. Need I say more......
I've tried them all and never been completely happy with any until I discovered Nikwax waterproofing wax for leather. I can't comment on what this stuff does to appearence as I care so little about that that I really never noticed, but nothing else does a better job of preserving leather against wet mud and water. Web search should turn up a source.
I just buy boots that are made with gore-tex or some other membrane type liner like Cabelas Dry Plus, all my hunting boots I can stand in water for hours and have dry feet, but the sno-seal works ok if you are not standing in water for a very long time.
Anything you put on the outside of boots isnt going to hold up long. Of course do not wear cotton socks so you will not get wicking.
Anything you put on the outside of boots isnt going to hold up long. Of course do not wear cotton socks so you will not get wicking.
Originally Posted By: bradepb
I just buy boots that are made with gore-tex or some other membrane type liner like Cabelas Dry Plus, all my hunting boots I can stand in water for hours and have dry feet, but the sno-seal works ok if you are not standing in water for a very long time.
Problem is that the leather gets soaked with water which takes a long time to dry out. And when you do serious hiking those boots get heavy (with water).
I just buy boots that are made with gore-tex or some other membrane type liner like Cabelas Dry Plus, all my hunting boots I can stand in water for hours and have dry feet, but the sno-seal works ok if you are not standing in water for a very long time.
Problem is that the leather gets soaked with water which takes a long time to dry out. And when you do serious hiking those boots get heavy (with water).
Sno seal, which is just a glorified Kiwi neutral shoe polish. When I worked at the shipyard, I kept a pair of heavy duty rubbers in my locker.
Leather care seems to be as much (or more) anecdotal than fact. I seek water resistance vs. water proofing....leather is supposed to breath. Rubber boots are for water proof.
I used to use Sno Seal, but my boots would crack after awhile (2 years +). "Someone told me" that Sno Seal was simply beeswax thinned with minieral spirits and contained no conditioners (cracking). This is borne out in the msds:
http://www.duluthtrading.com/media/images/msds/43035_MSDS.pdf
I bought into the "Obenaufs" product story and it works well for me.
https://www.obenaufs.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=30
Be sure to read the "Obenaufs Story"....it will hook you.
I used to use Sno Seal, but my boots would crack after awhile (2 years +). "Someone told me" that Sno Seal was simply beeswax thinned with minieral spirits and contained no conditioners (cracking). This is borne out in the msds:
http://www.duluthtrading.com/media/images/msds/43035_MSDS.pdf
I bought into the "Obenaufs" product story and it works well for me.
https://www.obenaufs.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=30
Be sure to read the "Obenaufs Story"....it will hook you.
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
I used to use Sno Seal, but my boots would crack after awhile (2 years +). "Someone told me" that Sno Seal was simply beeswax thinned with minieral spirits and contained no conditioners (cracking).
Be sure to read the "Obenaufs Story"....it will hook you.
Good information.
I used to use Sno Seal, but my boots would crack after awhile (2 years +). "Someone told me" that Sno Seal was simply beeswax thinned with minieral spirits and contained no conditioners (cracking).
Be sure to read the "Obenaufs Story"....it will hook you.
Good information.
Thanks for the opinions guys.
Originally Posted By: andyd
Sno seal, which is just a glorified Kiwi neutral shoe polish. When I worked at the shipyard, I kept a pair of heavy duty rubbers in my locker.
Sno seal is anything but a glorified neutral shoe polish. Its also been around since the 1930s. It was apparently originally used by loggers and trappers.
Beeswax in a mild solvent with a couple of other ingredients. Have to heat up the boots with a hairdryer (or put them in the oven on low) and get them nice and hot (label says 120deg or less) and then liberally apply a coat of Sno-Seal. Let that soak in while you heat up and coat the second boot. Then reheat the first boot and apply a second coat... etc. Once no more will soak in (2 to 3 coats) then let them dry for about 30 min. Wipe up excess with a rag and then buff with a brush.
My new boots took 3 coats before the leather couldn't absorb any more. Stuff is supposed to last for a year. It does a nice job of soaking into and under all of the seams and stitching. Water still beads off of the boots like a new coat of wax on a car after a two months of use/dirt/scuffs/general abuse. Also seems to help with abrasion resistance.
Those recommending neatsfoot oil or mink oil, be aware those contain animal fats/oils that will eventually destroy the leather.
Sno seal, which is just a glorified Kiwi neutral shoe polish. When I worked at the shipyard, I kept a pair of heavy duty rubbers in my locker.
Sno seal is anything but a glorified neutral shoe polish. Its also been around since the 1930s. It was apparently originally used by loggers and trappers.
Beeswax in a mild solvent with a couple of other ingredients. Have to heat up the boots with a hairdryer (or put them in the oven on low) and get them nice and hot (label says 120deg or less) and then liberally apply a coat of Sno-Seal. Let that soak in while you heat up and coat the second boot. Then reheat the first boot and apply a second coat... etc. Once no more will soak in (2 to 3 coats) then let them dry for about 30 min. Wipe up excess with a rag and then buff with a brush.
My new boots took 3 coats before the leather couldn't absorb any more. Stuff is supposed to last for a year. It does a nice job of soaking into and under all of the seams and stitching. Water still beads off of the boots like a new coat of wax on a car after a two months of use/dirt/scuffs/general abuse. Also seems to help with abrasion resistance.
Those recommending neatsfoot oil or mink oil, be aware those contain animal fats/oils that will eventually destroy the leather.
Originally Posted By: buickman50401
Those recommending neatsfoot oil or mink oil, be aware those contain animal fats/oils that will eventually destroy the leather.
And others contend that the 35% +/- mineral spirits (paint thinner/petroleum distilate) in Sno Seal will ruin stitching.
Some say that it is bad to clog the leather so much that it is 100% waterproof (foot odor, bacteria, etc.). Who knows.
Thus, my opinion above regarding the anecdotal nature of these discussions.
I let the marketing cliches influence my decision (which I don't sweat too much about in this case)
Both Nick's and White's Boots endorse the Obenauf's. They build custom work boots starting in the $300 to $500 dollar range for loggers, arborists, linemen, etc.
In the end, whatever works good for you is the BESTEST boot dressing in the world. Cheers!
Those recommending neatsfoot oil or mink oil, be aware those contain animal fats/oils that will eventually destroy the leather.
And others contend that the 35% +/- mineral spirits (paint thinner/petroleum distilate) in Sno Seal will ruin stitching.
Thus, my opinion above regarding the anecdotal nature of these discussions.
I let the marketing cliches influence my decision (which I don't sweat too much about in this case)
Both Nick's and White's Boots endorse the Obenauf's. They build custom work boots starting in the $300 to $500 dollar range for loggers, arborists, linemen, etc.
In the end, whatever works good for you is the BESTEST boot dressing in the world. Cheers!
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