Water trapped by vapor barrier

JHZR2

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My Ram didnt have vapor barriers behind the door cards. I made them when I replaced speakers. They keep the water that sneaks behind the window squeegee from dripping into the cab.

First water, and I see the following.

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I don’t think vapor barriers should tuck “in”. Do I need to adhere a plastic flap to route water better? I suppose I could cut one and attach it with spray adhesive.

It didn’t dry all day, including 60 miles of driving. While the door side is painted, it seems like a prime opportunity for rust. How should I deal with this, or is it “normal”?

I don’t look at doors with just a vapor barrier much...
 
No, you look good. I went through this just like you with an SUV.

The doors have drains in the bottom to let water pass, outside the door seal and out. That's where that moisture will go. The reason it looks so bad is you have a semi-transparent vapor barrier, which isn't OE. That's what it would look like behind any good door this time of year.

I had the same problem - missing vapor barrier on a used truck. Improvised like you did and it stopped all the crazy humidity inside. I can only speculate, some mechanics just don't know why things are there and don't take the time to put things back together correctly.
 
When ever I have my doors apart, I spray (into the seams, corners and lower sections) "Corrosion-X" first, it's a thin product that seeps into seams. I then follow up with a product from the same company called "Max-Wax", a thicker product that clings. LPS-3 is also a great choice.
 
My only suggestion would be, put the bead of adhesive at the top of the metal ridge. All along the bottom, I'd put it as close to the cavity as possible , so there is less void for water to sit in near the bead of adhesive.
 
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When ever I have my doors apart, I spray (into the seams, corners and lower sections) "Corrosion-X" first, it's a thin product that seeps into seams. I then follow up with a product from the same company called "Max-Wax", a thicker product that clings. LPS-3 is also a great choice.
My doors both got Corrosion X HD... I do have LPS 3 someplace... easy enough to spray in the drain holes in the future
 
Is there a lot of rust on the truck?
Inside the doors? No.

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The frame has some surface rust that I’ll convert and rustproof in the spring. The rockers have some rust, nothing close to a hole. TBD how I’ll handle and treat that. This truck was a tow rig, it’s 2wd so never was used for plow or salt.

I do want to take it to 500k miles (<60k away), but that will take time, and it will primarily sit outside. That’s why I’m concerned about water in the doors. I replaced the window squeegees, I’m doing the Ford trick of putting some tubing in the OE weather seals to make them a bit thicker and better contacting. But the primary issue is water dripping and sitting in the doors, as that’s a good environment to start rust if untreated.
 
Inside the doors? No.

View attachment 46749View attachment 46750

The frame has some surface rust that I’ll convert and rustproof in the spring. The rockers have some rust, nothing close to a hole. TBD how I’ll handle and treat that. This truck was a tow rig, it’s 2wd so never was used for plow or salt.

I do want to take it to 500k miles (
Do you put in rubber tubing? Or vinyl/plastic? I need to try this with the Express, the door seals aren't too good.
 
Do you put in rubber tubing? Or vinyl/plastic? I need to try this with the Express, the door seals aren't too good.
You actually put in 3/8” od latex tubing. It’s not hard, but it’s not easy, at least to do it with the seals mostly in place. I didn’t want to remove all the trim, so I used weedwacker line to help me pull it, a little silicone spray and a lot of massaging the OE seal, and I did it in two halves.

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