3M super 90/77 spray adhesive for vapor barrier?

[JHZR2]

My second 96 Ram needed a new driver side speaker. I opened up the door and was able to get a good coating of rustproofing in there. Now I want to close it up.

I think the window was broken and replaced once. The barrier is taped on with a clear tape. The vapor barrier looks OE, has the Chrysler star and part number on it.

I’d like to adhere it back, especially at the bottom.

I’ve used butyl rope before, but it’s a pain to get thin enough, and sticky enough, and rolled flat enough. I was thinking maybe 3M spray adhesive 77 or super 90 might work. I do want it to be removable in the distant future if needs be. I’ve had the butyl stuff be too stuck and ruin barriers. A spray adhesive could be similar if too strong. This maybe the 77 vs the 90?

Or else what? Rubber cement?

Hard to tell what was used OE. All I know is that it isn’t still there. Didn’t matter because the truck lived in a dry place. While I’ll plan to mainly store it indoors, it will see much more rain when outside than it has its last 25 years out west.

Thanks!

 

[Gimpy1]

Jeez I can't remeber the name of the adhesive but there is a aftermarket one. While the 3M stuff might work call a body shop and ask them or call a local bodyshop materials supplier like English Color or Eastwood I'm sure they'll tell you and might have it in stock.

 

[kschachn]

I’ve taken doors apart many times on my old cars and everything has failed except for that butyl rope. I know it’s a pain to take apart again but it’s the only thing that I found to hold it long-term.

Amazon had some that is 1/4” wide and not too thick. I think they called it sunroof tape.

 

[GON]

Two months ago I purchased 3M Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Permanent, Bonds Laminate, Wood, Concrete, Metal, Plastic, Clear Glue, Net Wt 17.6 oz, Will Spray Upside Down from Amazon.

Used it to strengthen the underside of some automotive interior carpeting. I am a big fan of 3M products, and willing to pay a premium for them. I was underwhelmed with the 3M 90 product. It took a much longer time to cure, and would not form a bond unless held firmly in place for a extended period of time.. I am not confident it is a match whatsoever on what you are trying to accomplish.

Attached are pictures of the carpet I reinforced with the 3M 90 adhesive. You can tell where it was applied by the change in color.

 

[JHZR2]

I’ve taken doors apart many times on my old cars and everything has failed except for that butyl rope. I know it’s a pain to take apart again but it’s the only thing that I found to hold it long-term.

Amazon had some that is 1/4” wide and not too thick. I think they called it sunroof tape.

It’s not what Chrysler used fwiw. Nor Mercedes, or any other vehicle I’ve ever gotten into the doors of.

It may stick better longer. Obviously the stuff on my truck (which was removed and re-installed) has lost its stick. But you can see that it is a sticky layer on the plastic.

 

[JHZR2]

Two months ago I purchased 3M Strength 90 Spray Adhesive, Permanent, Bonds Laminate, Wood, Concrete, Metal, Plastic, Clear Glue, Net Wt 17.6 oz, Will Spray Upside Down from Amazon.

Used it to strengthen the underside of some automotive interior carpeting. I am a big fan of 3M products, and willing to pay a premium for them. I was underwhelmed with the 3M 90 product. It took a much longer time to cure, and would not form a bond unless held firmly in place for a extended period of time.. I am not confident it is a match whatsoever on what you are trying to accomplish.

Attached are pictures of the carpet I reinforced with the 3M 90 adhesive. You can tell where it was applied by the change in color.

View attachment 77243View attachment 77242View attachment 77244View attachment 77245

I’ve used super 90 for nearly 20 years now for hood pads on Mercedes Diesels.

Those pads are spongy. So they absorb a lot of cement. And you need to let it dry a while before pressing it on.

I suspect you needed some thicker carpet glue type product that wouldn’t absorb as readily into the foam.

 

[joegreen]

I’ve used rope caulk before. Its thin and easy to squish down with a roller.

 

[GON]

I’ve used super 90 for nearly 20 years now for hood pads on Mercedes Diesels.

Those pads are spongy. So they absorb a lot of cement. And you need to let it dry a while before pressing it on.

I suspect you needed some thicker carpet glue type product that wouldn’t absorb as readily into the foam.

Thanks... I expected the adhesive to bond/ dry quickly. It didn't. Might of been because I used (concentrated) more product than it was designed for, thus slowing down the drying process.

Doubt its the case in your truck and application, but some vehicles have exterior water routed through the interior of the doors. Making the location/placement of adhesives like butyl critical to prevent the mis-routing of water. A vehicle that has this design is the 2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville.

 

[kschachn]

It was used on my old BMW for what it's worth.

 

[JHZR2]

Thanks... I expected the adhesive to bond/ dry quickly. It didn't. Might of been because I used (concentrated) more product than it was designed for, thus slowing down the drying process.

Doubt its the case in your truck and application, but some vehicles have exterior water routed through the interior of the doors. Making the location/placement of adhesives like butyl critical to prevent the mis-routing of water. A vehicle that has this design is the 2000-2005 Pontiac Bonneville.

the placement of adhesives is a good point. When I put new barriers in my 2wd Ram (when I bought it the truck had none), I put the butyl at the bottom. Water can sit in certain places that it shouldn’t between the barrier and the door inner metal….

Ao even if not “routed”, good point!