Water pump job mishap - broken heater hose

[350Rocket]

Halfway done my 2005 Silverado water pump job and the one hose was just a little too tight. Had to go to 2 places to find one in stock. Guess it's better it's replaced now anyway, the plastic was obviously brittle.
$69 Canadian for the new hose and t fitting. Hopefully everything else goes smoothly.
Going to clean the maf and throttle body while I have that stuff apart.

 

[2strokeNorthstar]

Best place for it to break is at home

 

[A_User55555]

You can actually cut off that plastic ring with the hole in it. That will give you some bare hose and then you can install a metal barb tee as a permanent fix.

But I do hate these types of hose tees. Theres one on my Cadillac DTS thats starting to weep. I have the spare hose in my trunk

 

[350Rocket]

You can actually cut off that plastic ring with the hole in it. That will give you some bare hose and then you can install a metal barb tee as a permanent fix.

But I do hate these types of hose tees. Theres one on my Cadillac DTS thats starting to weep. I have the spare hose in my trunk

The one replacement heater hose didn't even come with a plastic end at the heater core, so it's now just rubber going onto the aluminum heater core pipe. The other one I bought a replacement Dorman plastic piece even though I managed to get it off without breaking it. Even with the tool, it did not want to come off. Some research tells me these usually fail much sooner, so 18 years of heat cycles really cooked it into place.

After all the trips to for extra parts and special removal tools, I wish I had just paid someone to do it (I probably saved $140 in the end) but at least I can feel good that I accomplished it myself. It also looks like I actually did something with the size of these water pumps and the newer hoses on it now.

 

[emmett442]

This has been a "problem" ever since plastic in the cooling system became common, in the '80's

Is it better than the old copper, brass, aluminum systems of old? Yeah, I think so. No more corroded fittings, pitted hose sealing surfaces or gasket surfaces, leaky solder joints, which I feel like were much more frequent. Unlikely an old system would have gone 18 years without a leak.l like this one did.

That said, due to the age of plastic fittings, I did replace the heater hoses and lower rad hose in my 5.3 Tahoe prematurely.

 

[350Rocket]

This has been a "problem" ever since plastic in the cooling system became common, in the '80's

Is it better than the old copper, brass, aluminum systems of old? Yeah, I think so. No more corroded fittings, pitted hose sealing surfaces or gasket surfaces, leaky solder joints, which I feel like were much more frequent. Unlikely an old system would have gone 18 years without a leak.l like this one did.

That said, due to the age of plastic fittings, I did replace the heater hoses and lower rad hose in my 5.3 Tahoe prematurely.

I'm glad the heater cores aren't a common problem on these because it's a large cost to do them. My 84 Cutlass is on its third one but they can be done in a couple hours in my driveway. The aluminum rad was put in back in 2004 or so.

 

[350Rocket]

Somehow I missed a major hose clamp here...and it didn't leak a drop for over a week until today.... I'd been checking the level and looking for leaks and somehow missed the cap that wasn't on there. First I thought it must have let go and came off until I confirmed with a picture right after I finished that it wasn't on there.

I used flagging to wrap it and slow down the leak until I made it back to town for a clamp.

For it to not leak for so long without the clamp, do you think that the rad cap is not holding pressure?

 

[D60]

Somehow I missed a major hose clamp here...and it didn't leak a drop for over a week until today.... I'd been checking the level and looking for leaks and somehow missed the cap that wasn't on there. First I thought it must have let go and came off until I confirmed with a picture right after I finished that it wasn't on there.

I used flagging to wrap it and slow down the leak until I made it back to town for a clamp.

For it to not leak for so long without the clamp, do you think that the rad cap is not holding pressure?

Not necessarily....but easy to test although you need the adapter for the degas bottle cap