2012 Chevy Sonic 1.8 - "Chocolate Milkshake" in Coolant Reservoir

The penetrating oil apparently did its magic. We were able to remove the exhaust manifold (with integrated catalytic convertor) without too many problems.

One of the nuts on the flange where the cat connects to the exhaust pipe rounded off, so I got to use one of my Irwin extractor sockets for rounded-off nuts and bolts. It worked like a charm.

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This afternoon we removed the oil cooler.

Here's the unit:
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I split it open because I wanted confirmation that the internal gasket was the problem. It sure appears to be!
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Here's the gasket - quite deteriorated on the coolant side.
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And here's the engine bay now. I stuffed all the orifices with rags.
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@14Accent, is it worth replacing just the gaskets, or should I replace the entire unit? I haven't priced it out yet, but imagine there's a significant cost difference.
 
Arg! The Sonic continues to defy my efforts to get it running again.

We installed the oil cooler and exhaust manifold, and added water to the coolant reservoir. I very quickly noticed a stream of water running into the ground.

I assumed it was one of my connections - there are three coolant pipes connected to the oil cooler, each one also connected to the rest of the cooling system, so there are six o-rings which could leak.

But no, it was the water pump. I presume either the o-ring-type gasket or the pump's seal was degraded by the oil in the coolant.

So that will be the next project ...

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Here's the front of the engine with the oil cooler installed. Although there's one match mark made with red paint pen, the rest of the red is evidence of my involuntary blood donation.

Edit: Planning to order the Aisin from RA.
 
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Are the cooling hoses resistant to the oil contamination?
I seem to recall replacing mine along with the radiator when my Expedition got the strawberry milkshake of death out of concern the ATF would compromise the hoses.
I did have a mechanic diagnose and change my oil cooler on the same Expedition, but he did not change radiator hoses.
He did however change the cooling lines.
 
@Fitz98, here's a link to an earlier thread that provides a bit of history:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...blems-advice-sought-regarding-repairs.367592/

What I thought was slime in the coolant due to Dexcool incompatibility with a different coolant was actually likely the beginnings of the oil-into-coolant leak from the oil cooler. I believe that the oil in the coolant softened the original hoses, causing the original failure of the heater hose.

I'm now worried about the hoses I replaced last year.
 
I went through the thread link above. To me, that looked like the same results of the oil cooler leaking to the coolant problem I had. I would agree that it was oil, however, red and green does make brown, so mixing coolants???Maybe??, but the thickness and slime looked like oil to me. Even after the repair, I am still getting residual oil in the coolant bottle. I keep sucking the oil from the top, when it gradually accumulates and floats over time. It is not nearly as bad as before the oil cooler change. Before, it was the entire coolant bottle that was sludgy and brown, now it is just an occasional thin layer on top, with nice green fluid below that film. The mechanic said to expect this, since there will still be residual oil in the cooling system, deeper than he can get to without getting into a much bigger project. Part of me thinks there is still another problem somewhere else in the system.
I am not nearly as experienced as others who offer their advice on these forums, but isn't there also issues with wrong coolants incompatibility with hoses, gaskets and seals among manufacturers?
Makes me wonder, did the oil cause your issue by deteriorating your o-rings and gaskets, or did incompatible coolant cause the deterioration of the o-rings letting oil in?

When I had my strawberry milkshake, I first did several coolant flushes after my repair until I was confident there was no more ATF contamination in areas that were hard to reach and also not contaminate my new hoses with residual ATF fluid in the system. I had already replaced the heater core before this problem, so I was not going through that again, but hoses are easy to change and not crazy expensive. Peace of mind to replace the hoses and peace of mind that the flushes got rid of remaining contamination in the lines, block and core before putting on new hoses.
 
@14Accent, I'm hoping you can help me out once again. During the brief time we ran the engine yesterday (topping up the coolant reservoir while water leaked out of the water pump), the engine was very loud, like it was running without a muffler.

The exhaust manifold gasket appeared to be in good shape, so I didn't replace it. Should I have have? If so, it's not a big deal to pull the manifold again.

Thanks!
 
@14Accent, I'm hoping you can help me out once again. During the brief time we ran the engine yesterday (topping up the coolant reservoir while water leaked out of the water pump), the engine was very loud, like it was running without a muffler.

The exhaust manifold gasket appeared to be in good shape, so I didn't replace it. Should I have have? If so, it's not a big deal to pull the manifold again.

Thanks!
Those stainless gaskets should have been OK to re-use, both at the manifold and the down pipe. Once you get the water pump done, give all your bolts another snug.

*EDIT* - if the exhaust flex joint was already weak, the weight of the down pipe hanging loose COULD have separated the joint. Check that also, once it's back together.
 
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