Warm up idle or drive and go?

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Winter or summer: I wait until the RPM's are at or below 1000, and drive easy until the temp gauge is at normal operating temp. Why??? The engine is warming up from internal combustion and moving parts, the transmission is basically sitting idle (fluid is being pumped but little to no gears moving). I don't want to to a tranny-drop especially with a cold transmission and thick trans fluid.
 
I made up a guideline.

1 sec of idle for every degree below freezing F.

+10f = 22 sec at idle and so on.
 
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For those of your who don't believe in engine warm-up here's a little story!

As a youth, during the dead of winter at something like -30 degrees Celcius, I had to scoot up the road, 3 minutes walking distance, but it was 1am and the ground was covered in a sheet of ice. So I started up my mom's '89 626, with probably 10w40 in the crankcase as I was oil-ignorant back then and thought 'the thicker the better', regardless of temperature. It was so cold that the engine was idling at about 2200rpm, I immediately threw it in reverse to back out of the driveway, then threw it in drive and barely touched the gas and, oh my word, the poor engine... In my years growing up with this car, I have NEVER, EVER made the engine sound so bad....like a hammer on each power stroke!! it sounded WORSE than if an engine were run DRY! Immediately it hit me, "wow that was really stupid, I couldn't even wait 5 seconds?" Let off the gas and sort of idled along. Less than a minute later, the engine stopped making that sound under load, although still frozen cold. From that day my inner struggle has been put to rest: it IS bad to load up cold engines, exponentially worse the colder it gets !!




Sounds more like the wrong oil than anything else.




I realise the oil didn't help, but I'm sure the extreme temperature played a role in it too. This was back in the SH days!




It was probably a non-synthetic oil that solidified due to wax and being the wrong viscosity. It might have sounded that bad had you let it idle too, its hard to know.
 
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For those of your who don't believe in engine warm-up here's a little story!

As a youth, during the dead of winter at something like -30 degrees Celcius, I had to scoot up the road, 3 minutes walking distance, but it was 1am and the ground was covered in a sheet of ice. So I started up my mom's '89 626, with probably 10w40 in the crankcase as I was oil-ignorant back then and thought 'the thicker the better', regardless of temperature. It was so cold that the engine was idling at about 2200rpm, I immediately threw it in reverse to back out of the driveway, then threw it in drive and barely touched the gas and, oh my word, the poor engine... In my years growing up with this car, I have NEVER, EVER made the engine sound so bad....like a hammer on each power stroke!! it sounded WORSE than if an engine were run DRY! Immediately it hit me, "wow that was really stupid, I couldn't even wait 5 seconds?" Let off the gas and sort of idled along. Less than a minute later, the engine stopped making that sound under load, although still frozen cold. From that day my inner struggle has been put to rest: it IS bad to load up cold engines, exponentially worse the colder it gets !!




Sounds more like the wrong oil than anything else.




I realise the oil didn't help, but I'm sure the extreme temperature played a role in it too. This was back in the SH days!




It was probably a non-synthetic oil that solidified due to wax and being the wrong viscosity. It might have sounded that bad had you let it idle too, its hard to know.




Nope, it cold started like it did normally. I was just guessing the type of abysmal dino oil that was in the crankcase, it was so many years ago I don't really know. The loud piston slapping noise was just from applying load trying to drive away with the pistons not even lukewarm. Thats an engine (F2) that *never* piston slaps, even horribly worn ones. So I'm convinced that even with 5w30 SM in the crankcase, when the pistons are still close to ambient temp (in this case -30celcuis), the piston would be way too contracted in it's bore. Remember this is a condition/incidence that went away within a minute afterwards, has never happened before and never happened after that. The car was sold 3 years ago with 330,000 KM's due to rust to a friend who used it as a long-distance winter beater which they used for 2 more years. It went to the scrap with a good original drivetrain. That engine has only ever needed a water pump (which started to leaked after we sold it).
 
Cold weather must be coming...this discussion comes up every year!

I actually read through the whole thread this time!

I have spent my life in New England, have always just got into the vehicle, started the engine, adjusted my seatbelt and mirrors, taken a good look around before putting it in gear, and just went. Total of perhaps 30 to 40 seconds. In very cold temps I take my time getting down the driveway or out of the parking lot to allow the engine to warm up under load.

A relative of mine told me that some nutty lady he works with actually goes outside the building about FIFTEEN MINUTES before she has to leave in order to start her car! That's right, 15 minutes of idling before she moves! And she goes back inside the office during that time! Funny how leaving a running vehicle unattended is a crime in Massachusetts, I wonder why...some people amaze me ...
 
Start the car, put on seatbelt, and drive gently.

Got to go all the way through town (about 3 miles before I hit the highway). After work, it's only a few hundred metres.
 
I personally believe it is best to allow a little time for oil circulation...I usually give the Prizm about a minute before I shift into drive...and then I am easy on her for the first few miles...Most of the yahoos I work with jump in their outfits and take off...no matter what the temp...one time it was thirty below at three in the morning and I jumped in the 78 Grand Prix and pushed the gas to the floor to set the choke before starting when she turned over the carb was stuck at WOT...SCARY...I had to shut her down!...then I needed a jump...that was with Delo 10w30...it took about ten minutes of idiling after that before she would accept enough throttle to drive off...I miss that car!...
 
pepper32
"I start and go after about 30 seconds, until it hits zero. Then I idle for 10 to 15 minutes."

What does this mean ? Please translate this for me.

Virginoil
 
ALWAYS let the idle come down to around 1000rpm,then I'll put the vehicle in gear and drive slowly until the temp is at normal
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Done this with aLL my vehicles with no problems,so not changing!
 
This is all great about warming up the engine, but what about everything else? If we want our vehicles to last and we know the cold takes a toll on them, we must think about more than just the engine...

It is good to warm up the engine some, but when it's really cold, you need to drive it gently until the other fluids warm up also.

Without gauges in the trans & Diff(s), how do you know when they are warmed up also??

If you're going down the road, after not letting the engine warm up sitting in place, when the temp gauge warms up to normal, the other fluids are probably lagging behind some.

So the key is to take 'er easy for a while!

How long? Depends on the ambient temperature...

A good rule of thumb:

20F = 10 minutes

0F = 12 minutes

-20F = 15 minutes

-30F & below = 18 minutes at least

If it's colder than 0F, don't drive 'er hard period!
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pepper32
"I start and go after about 30 seconds, until it hits zero. Then I idle for 10 to 15 minutes."

What does this mean ? Please translate this for me.

Virginoil




start up the car, let it idle for 30 seconds, then start driving.

When it is 0 degrees (ie.. freakin cold) he lets it idle for 10-15 minutes, then drive away
 
I try to use both methods. To cover my butt.

That way when my CO wanders by and bruskly asks if I've been abusing my equipment during start-ups, I can crisply salute with my eyes locked straight ahead and say, "Not more than 50% of the time, Sir."

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This is all great about warming up the engine, but what about everything else? If we want our vehicles to last and we know the cold takes a toll on them, we must think about more than just the engine...

It is good to warm up the engine some, but when it's really cold, you need to drive it gently until the other fluids warm up also.

Without gauges in the trans & Diff(s), how do you know when they are warmed up also?




The diffs aren't going to warm up unless they are moving. Sitting still while the engine idles isn't going to do anything for a manual transmission or the diffs.
 
Block heater, 30sec - 1 min of idle (depending on how cold it is, and how long it takes for the idle speed to drop), then easy driving till I'm warmed up (meaning once I feel heat from the heater). My wife's car gets garaged, so she probably just slams it into reverse after 0 seconds of idling and peels out of the driveway. I've always been too afraid to watch. Thankfully, it's a company car.
 
I know you guys are gonna beat me, but I would bet I am the warm up king around here.

I have a second ignition key, and keyless entry, so i go out, and start the car with the spare key, put on the parking break, and lock the doors.

Sometimes, if it is really cold in the morning, I let the car warm up for 20 min. Sometimes, I have to leave at night, 11pm-4am, and I let the car warm up for 30 min.

I start the car, and turn the heat & defrost on. Then, when I make it out to the car, the inside is toasty, and the windows are clear.
 
Yes, that's obvious and I absolutely know that!

That's what I said - "You need to drive it gently until the other fluids warm up also."

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I let it idle until the RPMs drop to about 1,500 (usually takes between 30 seconds to a minute) then I just drive it carefully until it gets warmer. Simple as that
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Get in, turn the key, wait a couple of seconds, start the engine, fasten your seat belt, go. The fastening the seatbelt step gives the oil a chance to get everywhere. I start out easy as the engine warms. A hard run on the freeway entrance ramp right out of the driveway is probably not good.
 
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