It is Wago and not Wagyu. Finally, I got the two wires: 12V SAE fused and the 24/7 PulseTech on-board delsulphnator merged into the fused wire to the battery’s positive terminal. Previously, the left battery cell cap was blocked from maintenance and I could not disconnect the PulseTech for 3 week airport parking. Now, it is cleaner, and tie wrapped the wagon keys.
Wago implementation
- Thread starter Patrick0525
- Start date
C’mon, man, blue masking tape is hardly an appropriate wrap/insulation for automotive electrical.
I agree. I am thinking about removing it but I need to figure out if the Wago would ever disconnect.
Dont use Wago in automotive or other vibrating applications.
Why not ? They make them for automotive applications. Not sure if there are specific ones or they all are and yeah, no idea which the OP used.
Come on, man. He's going to paint everything and needs to mask off the connector so it doesn't get paint on it !
Used the 221 series three conductor.
Sent the automotive 221 connector application question to Wago.
The RV industry uses them all over the place.
They're fine for connecting low current items, but I will never use them in a high current application.
This was one of the ones Forest Rive installed on my AC unit. Rated for 20 amps, failed below that.
I would only use a WAGO for half of its rated value.
What I seen when they are used in cars and trailers is that it gets badly oxidation in them and the wires breaks off or get bad connection due to the oxidation. They would do fine if it was some kind of moisture/water seal to them.
Wago is a bit better than wire nuts, but not much. I would be OK with this install if it wasn’t left loose to vibrate and it wasn’t wrapped in blue tape, which is neither waterproof nor durable.
Crimp connectors would last longer and many of those are waterproof (heat shrink, etc.).
Crimp connectors would last longer and many of those are waterproof (heat shrink, etc.).
That has nothing to do with the Wago. I have reused ones that have been submerged and the wires rotted out of them when I didn't have another on me. Never had an issue with them.
I re-read my post and should clarify.
I would never use a WAGO at it's limit on a constant basis. The one that failed on me was on an AC unit in the south, so it had been running full-tilt, all day. For intermittent use (at their limit) they are likely fine. Being spring loaded, vibration should never be an issue unless you're using solid core wire and the wire fails, or you heat the connector to the point the spring loses tension.
I'm sitting in the fully powered camper with the AC going balls out and my MultiplusII Is reporting 1536 watts of AC being used, everything else in the camper (Except the TV) is DC powered, so the AC is pulling 12.8 amps. Well under what that 20a WAGO is rated for. Don't know why it failed, it shouldn't have, but there are wire nuts in the AC control box now and last I checked on them, they were fine.
Also, I'd never use one outside. Inside a sealed area only.
My preferred method for an outdoor connection is an un-insulated butt crimp and glue lined heat shrink. I don't care for the all-in-one crimp/shrink products simply because it is too easy to punch a hole in the heat shrink part.
I would never use a WAGO at it's limit on a constant basis. The one that failed on me was on an AC unit in the south, so it had been running full-tilt, all day. For intermittent use (at their limit) they are likely fine. Being spring loaded, vibration should never be an issue unless you're using solid core wire and the wire fails, or you heat the connector to the point the spring loses tension.
I'm sitting in the fully powered camper with the AC going balls out and my MultiplusII Is reporting 1536 watts of AC being used, everything else in the camper (Except the TV) is DC powered, so the AC is pulling 12.8 amps. Well under what that 20a WAGO is rated for. Don't know why it failed, it shouldn't have, but there are wire nuts in the AC control box now and last I checked on them, they were fine.
Also, I'd never use one outside. Inside a sealed area only.
My preferred method for an outdoor connection is an un-insulated butt crimp and glue lined heat shrink. I don't care for the all-in-one crimp/shrink products simply because it is too easy to punch a hole in the heat shrink part.
Ok I fixed the vibration issue and mounted it on double back foam tape. It now sits in the battery crevice and tie wrapped down. The highest maximum charge is 14.7V and 8 amps. This would be for a dead battery and from my BattetyMinder 128CEC2. Typically in float maintenance mode it is 200 milliamps at 13.4V.
I also filled in the wire entry points with ceramalube brake grease. No pic shown.
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f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
Check your user manual. BM recommends you use the 2 amp mode for most situations. 4 amp for multi-battery charging and 8 amp for use with Odyssey batteries. Not absolutely sure of their rationale but probably following the typical adage "low and slow" is best for battery longevity when charging.
U are correct on this matter regarding the BM 128CEC2. I wanted to include the maximum current case the Wago could possibly see before a BITOG forum member brought it up. The Wago is rated for 400V 32 amps. Lol
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I bet that happened because they are meant for alternating current, AC not DC. 20 amp Wagos CAN start to get soft at 60 amp AC if in a pull box. Wago makes a 30 amp larger version. I don't know if there is enough cool down the Wago gets wit the alternating current and wave form ramp up and ramp down, that allows more cooling. Where direct DC load stays at 100% load with no wave form cool down time even though the AC wave is ramping/ramping down 60 times a second. Here is a Wago test.
Thanks. It is very informative.
I want to see the next Life Hack TikTok automotive video that may have
, 
and 
️.Given a no start car with a 40% soh battery, a 5000 amp battery booster, a 221 Wego connector (postive terminal) with two 12 gauge solid wire connections between the battery and the battery booster. Next try starting the car. Maybe dad’s diesel work pickup truck is a better candidate.
Call it the “ Wago TikTok Challenge”. Sparks will probably fly. Who wants to be the next TikTok viral Influencer? I will send u a complimentary Wago connector.
Unfortunately, I am no longer 18yrs old, grown up and vowed not to eat anymore Tide detergent pods. lol.
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My battery is maintained on a BM 2012 with a 2 amp full charge maximum. In maintenance mode it is approximately 1.1watt (13.4v *.080amps) with the PulseTech onboard delsulphnator installed. On a 2 amp full charge the current is 30 watts.
Last year, without the PulseTech the system’s baseline parasitic current draw was 22milliamps.
Parasitic draw 21 RX350
Last year, without the PulseTech the system’s baseline parasitic current draw was 22milliamps.
Parasitic draw 21 RX350
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WAGO's primary market is industrial. People there love them or hate them. I am ambivalent - I can see +/- to them. I would prefer a properly strain relief protected solder joint, but would take Wago over a cold solder joint, or a wire nut and tape.
The Wago sales pitch which I have heard directly from them is there are no screws to loosen and vibration won't cause the wires to pull out, so I can see why they might have a place in the automotive world.
The Wago sales pitch which I have heard directly from them is there are no screws to loosen and vibration won't cause the wires to pull out, so I can see why they might have a place in the automotive world.
