you are correct, I misspoke. post edited to say "contacts ohm open"
solenoid clicks but no crank
- Thread starter sky jumper
- Start date
@sky jumper
Have you figured it out yet?
Have you figured it out yet?
well the problem is now resolved, but I can't definitely say what the root cause was. long story short I ended up removing every switch & relay, cleaned all the connections & terminals which were quite dirty, replaced the key switch, and replaced starter relay (5). I did all this at the same time and afterwards it starts and runs fine and I didn't want to touch it again.
the old starter relay (5) seems to work fine now that its removed so its possible it was just dirty/loose connections. but I already bought the new one and I have no intention of swapping the old one back in just to see if it works and invite the gremlin back in.
its also possible it was the ignition switch even though I had previously ohmed it out and it ohmed fine, but it was very dirty inside. I was unable to properly reassemble it due to damaged/missing internal parts (the little springs and steel roller balls) so just bought a new one.
I’m glad that you got it sorted out. Those safety switches can be a real pain in the you know where. I got so fed up with my former Toro Timecutter HD. The first thing that I did was bypass the seat switch. It still wouldn’t start. I moved on to the motion switches. I fiddled with them and it started up. The next time that I got ready to mow, it wouldn’t start. I went through the switches again and found a bad parking brake switch. Toro calls it a reverse switch.I replaced and it was trouble free for about a year. It was acting up again when I traded it a few weeks back.
Sky Jumper, it sounds just like the problem I had a couple of summers ago when my Craftsman rider had a similar problem. The problem turned out to be excessive overall resistance in one of the run circuits. I had to replace all of the electrical terminals in the wiring for that one circuit due to green grunge being present in every crimped joint I inspected in addition to replacing the seat switch (due to bad contacts) and the reverse switch. For the new terminals, I both crimped and soldered them.
Putting a diode that is in reverse bias ( connected not to conduct when correct DC is applied to relay coil ) so it conducts to short out the reverse polarity pulse generated when the field of the relay coil collapses when power is removed from the relay coil, is something that has been done in electric engineering design for at least 40 years ( and probably a lot longer than that ). There is nothing proprietary about it. You can not get a patent on something that is common knowledge to people who are educated in the applicable field.
On AC powered relays, a MOV across ( in parallel with the coil ) with a conduction voltage above anything the AC power will ever supply is a way of supplying conduction when required to suppress any coil collapse voltage spike when AC power is removed from the relay coil. And that also has been in use for more than 40 years.
On AC powered relays, a MOV across ( in parallel with the coil ) with a conduction voltage above anything the AC power will ever supply is a way of supplying conduction when required to suppress any coil collapse voltage spike when AC power is removed from the relay coil. And that also has been in use for more than 40 years.
