Volvo 850 Turbo Chevron Delo 400 15W/40 3000 miles
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Fuel is high. Flashpoint is low. Wear is reasonable for 3k miles but I would expect better numbers.
You didn't mention the driving style. If you're not taking short trips, you need a tuneup and a look into the ignition/fueling system.
2 quarts consumption is high for 3k miles. But, at 146k, could just be normal wear and tear. Maybe its time for a flush?
Si is consistent but climbing a little with each UOA. Might also be a good time to replace the air filter.
You didn't mention the driving style. If you're not taking short trips, you need a tuneup and a look into the ignition/fueling system.
2 quarts consumption is high for 3k miles. But, at 146k, could just be normal wear and tear. Maybe its time for a flush?
Si is consistent but climbing a little with each UOA. Might also be a good time to replace the air filter.
Dude. Bottom end wear looks good. I agree tune up and new filters. That is a LOT of oil used in 3000 miles. Get the Delo out of there for now. Run at least 2, maybe 3 AutoRx cycles.
thanks for the post. Car is used for the usual commute slog. A little bit of highway but mostly stop and go. Car has had a tune-up with fresh plugs. I will check the air filter. It probably has about 10K on it.
Anybody worried about the aluminum? A previous report mentioned it might be normal for my particular motor.
I can tell you that I sometimes get some lifter ticking at startup but it goes away after the car is warmed up. I understand this could be notmal for my engine (the owners manual even mentions it) or it could be oil pan o-rings which is a known problem on these cars. Not sure...
Anybody worried about the aluminum? A previous report mentioned it might be normal for my particular motor.
I can tell you that I sometimes get some lifter ticking at startup but it goes away after the car is warmed up. I understand this could be notmal for my engine (the owners manual even mentions it) or it could be oil pan o-rings which is a known problem on these cars. Not sure...
Your aluminum is HIGH. More than my 850 when I went 20,000 miles on Amsoil 5W-30 ASL. It could be some dirt intrusion...although your Si is semi-ok - but 0.3 solids in only 3K is NOT stellar.
You didn't mention what oil filter you are using. Mine did the ticking ever so slightly until I started using the EaO filter. 15W-40 does NOT help at start-up for ticking/noises....
You didn't mention what oil filter you are using. Mine did the ticking ever so slightly until I started using the EaO filter. 15W-40 does NOT help at start-up for ticking/noises....
I just noticed the visc and used the neptune calculator. Oil is a 30wt. Thats not helping the situation when a 15w40 shears and dilutes into a 30wt in 3k, especially considering 2 quarts top off. It seems that you've been able to do this in your other UOAs that I just glanced at.
City/traffic is taking its toll. Get an engine timer or try a couple 2k OCIs.
I would think that Texas would be mildly immune to 15w40 during most of the year. A full synthetic might be too expensive for a vehicle with issues that need addressing.
If there are known seal issues, then that should be fixed 1st.
Plugs/o2 should help with fuel. New OEM thermostat should help get engine up to proper temp quickly. Anything that might effect the A/F ratio should be looked into. Temp sensors/senders, vacuum leaks, AFM/MAP whatever need testing/inspecting. Crank ventilation(PCV) needs inpsecting, cleaning, and replacement.
Since summer is here, I would keep using the 15w40.
Since 3/4" oil filter is used, there are plenty of choices. If there is room, bigger can be used.
I just looked at your other UOAs posted here. High insolubles is common. The engine is dirty or the filter isn't working well. So what filter are you using? PN?
City/traffic is taking its toll. Get an engine timer or try a couple 2k OCIs.
I would think that Texas would be mildly immune to 15w40 during most of the year. A full synthetic might be too expensive for a vehicle with issues that need addressing.
If there are known seal issues, then that should be fixed 1st.
Plugs/o2 should help with fuel. New OEM thermostat should help get engine up to proper temp quickly. Anything that might effect the A/F ratio should be looked into. Temp sensors/senders, vacuum leaks, AFM/MAP whatever need testing/inspecting. Crank ventilation(PCV) needs inpsecting, cleaning, and replacement.
Since summer is here, I would keep using the 15w40.
Since 3/4" oil filter is used, there are plenty of choices. If there is room, bigger can be used.
I just looked at your other UOAs posted here. High insolubles is common. The engine is dirty or the filter isn't working well. So what filter are you using? PN?
Mann filters are better than most, but the ticking isn't related to the ADBV (all 850 filters should have this!). It's related to flow. Mann flows OK, but there are less restrictive filters out there.
The problem with a conventional 15W-40 is the lousy cool/cold temp flow. You should really be using a 5/10W-X, regardless of how hot it gets in Texas. The ONLY 15W-X oil I would use in any modern gasoline engine is a synthetic oil.
I resisted the urge so far to tell you that you really should use a synthetic oil in your turbo, but it's really coming around to that. You want a XW-40 for summer, but a 15W-40 dino is not ideal for year around starts. I hesitate to recommend a dino 10W-40 in your turbo because to much VII's.
For now, you need to get those dino gummed up up piston rings cleaned with AutoRx. (Watch the consumption drop). It will take lots of miles though. Then you can decide what oil you want. I'll bet the oil pipes for your turbo are not spotless.....
The problem with a conventional 15W-40 is the lousy cool/cold temp flow. You should really be using a 5/10W-X, regardless of how hot it gets in Texas. The ONLY 15W-X oil I would use in any modern gasoline engine is a synthetic oil.
I resisted the urge so far to tell you that you really should use a synthetic oil in your turbo, but it's really coming around to that. You want a XW-40 for summer, but a 15W-40 dino is not ideal for year around starts. I hesitate to recommend a dino 10W-40 in your turbo because to much VII's.
For now, you need to get those dino gummed up up piston rings cleaned with AutoRx. (Watch the consumption drop). It will take lots of miles though. Then you can decide what oil you want. I'll bet the oil pipes for your turbo are not spotless.....
Thanks everyone. The car is getting up there in age but it has not been neglected since I got it at 125K:
Tune up = 137K (plugs rotor wires air filter)
Front O2 = 132K
PCV and knock sensors = 133K
Timing belt/pulleys and Coolant changed at 140K (thermostat OK)
Vacuum tests OK at 18mm Hg whenever I check it.
There is some coating of the I/C hoses with oil.
The car really does run great. Do I really have a lot to worry about here? Or is it more like if I fix the Al issue the car will run to 300K?
So maybe a 5W-30? Auto-RX?
Tune up = 137K (plugs rotor wires air filter)
Front O2 = 132K
PCV and knock sensors = 133K
Timing belt/pulleys and Coolant changed at 140K (thermostat OK)
Vacuum tests OK at 18mm Hg whenever I check it.
There is some coating of the I/C hoses with oil.
The car really does run great. Do I really have a lot to worry about here? Or is it more like if I fix the Al issue the car will run to 300K?
So maybe a 5W-30? Auto-RX?
personally, I'd agree that the 15w is too thick, esp when you're running a turbo. I'd seriously go to a robust 5w40 given your driving style and age of the vehicle.
I think I will try a lighter weight at the oil change. I'll keep the 15W40 in here for the summer since I just changed it. Then I'll switch to a lighter grade. Maybe that will bring the Al down?
Again, is 11ppm Al really that bad? BL isn't too concerned. What's the long term effects? 250K miles instead of 300K? Car blows up tomorrow? What does it really mean?
Again, is 11ppm Al really that bad? BL isn't too concerned. What's the long term effects? 250K miles instead of 300K? Car blows up tomorrow? What does it really mean?
11 ppm is not bad per say, but the oil was only in there for 3000 miles. I still say you should give it a good clean and try it again. I doubt it will blow up tomorrow - but I don't know what's going on inside your turbo oil supply pipe and the return, and I have some concern as to the state of your piston rings (gummy). And these will effect engine/turbo life. This is an area where synthetic oils shine.
I haven't seen any real good supporting data for Mann filters. The data that I've seen made it look no better then an economy filter. I've seen some Mann cartridges that were not impressive too.
If there is room, the FL400s might a good choice for the 3k OCI's. Another choice is to try the Wix/Champ/Purolator filters or their clones.
If there is room, the FL400s might a good choice for the 3k OCI's. Another choice is to try the Wix/Champ/Purolator filters or their clones.
Wow, those numbers are much worse than what I got some time ago when I had a UOA done on my '96 Volvo 850 non-turbo. Whatever is going on, the Mann isn't causing it. I used a Mann for my run as I almost always do on Volvos.
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/MZktAZTZV...eas=Volvo850UOA
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/MZktAZTZV...eas=Volvo850UOA
For comparison, here's an analysis done on my former 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo using Valvoline Synpower 10w-30.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post223131
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...true#Post223131
Elevated piston and cylinder wear due to the fuel wash down the cylinder walls. The combination of thermo-mechanical shearing and fuel dilution is quickly turning this oil into a 30wt, with associated higher wear (valvetrain and bearing).
The air filtration looks fine, since both Cr and Ni are @ 0 ppm....
I'd try a more shear stable 40wt synthetic (like Mobil Delvac 1 or the Amsoil 15w-40). I'd also make sure the engine is tuned up and the fuel injector spray pattern is good, in order to minimize the fuel dilution. I'd suggest running a bottle of Redline SL-1 or Techron Concentrate through the system will a full tank of gas.
The air filtration looks fine, since both Cr and Ni are @ 0 ppm....
I'd try a more shear stable 40wt synthetic (like Mobil Delvac 1 or the Amsoil 15w-40). I'd also make sure the engine is tuned up and the fuel injector spray pattern is good, in order to minimize the fuel dilution. I'd suggest running a bottle of Redline SL-1 or Techron Concentrate through the system will a full tank of gas.
At the least try some 5w40 Rotella Syn, or even Maxlife 10w40 after this run; you'll at least have a semi-syn or syn-blend.
Maybe FP60 or Lucas UCL continued use after a Techron/Regane/SI-1 cleaning, would help too.
Maybe FP60 or Lucas UCL continued use after a Techron/Regane/SI-1 cleaning, would help too.
"Elevated piston and cylinder wear due to the fuel wash down the cylinder walls. The combination of thermo-mechanical shearing and fuel dilution is quickly turning this oil into a 30wt, with associated higher wear (valvetrain and bearing)."
Viscosity isn't the problem here. The fuel dilution seems to be common on Volvo 850s and the other reports I've seen don't show high wear numbers, even with 30 weight oil.
Viscosity isn't the problem here. The fuel dilution seems to be common on Volvo 850s and the other reports I've seen don't show high wear numbers, even with 30 weight oil.
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